AlbatrossCafe

I don't think so. That is pushing it. I have 16x8.25 +0 offset on 225/50 R16 tires. They are basically touching the front valence in front with the wheels turned. Yours would be wider and stick out more. The issue is not when going straight and at ride height, but when turning and suspension compressed. I thought I had more pics but I guess not. Maybe this helps give an idea.

For real. I'm at 225/280 on my coilovers. It is miserable on the street over bumps. 280z with L28ET. It would handle great on smooth track, but over potholes/bumps, I feel like I actually lose out on handling because it bounces me to the other side of the road.

I also wish I had positive offset (+10?). I have XXR 527's in 16x8.25 +0et with 225/50/R16 and coilovers. Tires stick outside fenders just barely. IDK how nothing rubs. It is a miracle that I haven't had to roll/trim anything. I'm lowered about 1/2". Here is how well those fit. I wouldn't quite call them "flush" with the fenders:

TBH I thought I was on the 370z part of the forum for a sec lol

I'm located in Bellevue, WA. My car I have only owned for half a year but I did just finish suspension replacement with coilovers. Can I attend? I have only put on maybe 300 miles on my Z and I have no experience with this kind of stuff. Any special requirements for your car to be able to run this course?

They look good! I just installed stance with 4k front and 5k rear. VERY stiff. Hope they break in a bit or something.

There is a race shop near my place that has a TON of seats. I went and sat in every single one of them lol. Body shapes/dimensions/preferences vary so greatly that it I think the only way to know is try it out unfortunately...

Ah, I didn't even think of that. I have an 1982 L28ET in mine (swapped by previous owner). If the pump is already there, it seems like a no brainer! When most people do the engine swap, what do they do with the old power steering? Do they just drain the power steering fluid and seal up the hoses? To get it working again, would I have to do any "reconditioning" first?

I have those XXR 527 wheels in "Black Chrome" with 225/50/R16. Kinda wish I went with 205/50/R16 as the 225s are super meaty. Just put everything on. The wheels are actually 16 x 8.25. I haven't done anything to get them fit. I am on coilovers, but I am only about 0.5" lowered from stock height. Same as you, I have a fiberglass front air dam that I need color matched. That thing is gorgeous! I also have the BRE rear spoiler as well. It takes some prep to paint it. Mine came with scratches/gouges and was unprepped. If you really want to be flawless, you will likely have to do some fiberglass repair to make it nice and smooth unfortunately. I didn't go that far. I just sanded, primed, and painted. I couldn't find a good color match without doing a custom mix so I just decided to go with black. Will probably get everything vinyl wrapped pretty soon here anyway.

Man, cutting those towers was nerve racking, especially in the rear! I don't like getting metal dust all over the inside of the car. I installed coilovers with the camber adjustment at the strut tower and adjustable control arms at the same time. It made alignment pretty easy for the shop. Everyone does their camber plates differently. I have Stance coilovers. I liked them because it is a no-weld solution. TBH I was very concerned about strength as well because you have to cut away a LOT of material, but the new plates that you bolt/weld onto there add that rigidity back in. I haven't had any problems in the 30 miles I've driven it... haha. This car is light, and most of us (if not all of us) are not jumping their Z in the desert, so there isn't as much vertical force as you think at each corner.

Why would you go with hydro over electric? Cost? "ZPowerSteering" is a lot of money but at least you know everything fits/works! That is good for someone like me :) I wonder why people say "hydro is better than electric". It seems like electric is very adjustable, so you should be able to get it close to your liking. Now that I have completely swapped suspension and gotten stickier 225mm tires, I think power steering would really help me. I find I take turns at <30mph (e.g. like turning left at an intersection or onto a side street) pretty wide when I take them at speed because I don't crank enough lol

I just finished my coilover installation and have only driven it a few miles. Already it sounds like the entire trunk has been ripped off even with all doors closed, since those rear strut tower tops are completely open with the camber plates. You can hear all the wind/tire noise even at like 30mph. I don't want a "race car". I would love to insulate against some of the sound. I haven't tried to put the plastic covers on yet, but I imagine they won't be enough. I will experiment with what I can stuff over it to muffle the noise. This is probably the biggest (and only) negative to my coilover installation so far. For some reason I don't have a pic of the back, but you can imagine it looks a bit like this for now:

That is a very good price. $1500 is totally worth it to me. I was hoping that you had a front air-dam on there so I could see what you did. I have a urethane one now (haven't put it on yet) but I'm thinking vinyl will not stick to it. Might sell it and go with fiberglass if I am gonna wrap.

Thanks for the review! I've been thinking about Vinyl for my car. It seems like a much simpler option than going through all the paint prep and it looks just as good or BETTER! Yours went from "scrapyard look" (no offense haha) to a Z that looks damn near perfect! Plus it seems cheaper. Although, I am not as brave as you and don't think I would do it myself haha. Glad to know it seems reasonable though. I'm thinking of a mirrored chrome look, or like a mirrored dark blue... not sure yet

425 Motorsports over in Bellevue! I see you are from there. They are about a mile west of Crossroads. I live about a mile east of Crossroads so they are convenient for me. They are doing the chopping/welding for my coilovers. They have done very high quality work for me so far.

??? I just took out the strut assembly and the lower control arm together and brought that in. No need to take the whole car lol

I tried my spindle spins for about 20 min on each side, and realized very quickly that it was NOT going to be an enjoyable experience at all. I paid a shop for an hour's worth of labor. Not sure what exactly they did, but I do know it involved a hydraulic press. Anyways, $100 later and a huge headache and hours of my time saved. Worth it for me.

Sure is. Got it here: https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/air/amsoil-ea-universal-air-induction-filters/ Though TBH it won't be much of a review... I bought my Z last fall, put about 60 miles on it driving it home, took off all the suspension, and it has been on jackstands ever since waiting for coilover parts to arrive and welding to be done. So I don't really have a benchmark to judge it against haha

Welp, regardless, it's too late now. It barely fit. I had to remove my oil cooler from it's mount to put it on. I'd say "For the next one, I'll go back to the smaller size" but given that this car will be driven ~2000 miles per year, I couldn't tell ya if there will even be a next one...

Wtf is Microsquirt? I thought there was only a Megasquirt? When would you use one vs. the other?

Thanks for the link! I'll take that chance. I didn't want to buy K&N (heard they don't filter well) and was still sorta against AEM since they were bought out by K&N around 2010 (I'm sure it is fine, but still hesitant). Don't know why that site lists the Amsoil part # right next to the K&N part # (maybe for comparison?) but as far as I know Amsoil and K&N are still different companies. Decided to go with Amsoil's EaAU3090 filter which competes against K&N RE-0810 . This is just an inch larger than my current one but also has the "V-stack" concept that EF Ian mentioned so it should have more than enough surface area/airflow. Amsoil:K&N: I figure if it is too big, what is the worse that could happen? Will it run too lean? Just seems like the extra space will make it last longer before cleaning...

Sorry, it is a bit too long. It wouldn't fit for me. I can fit <6" width filters and <10" length filters with 3" ID flange. I'm looking at this AEM one which is basically the same dimensions as current but a dry filter instead of oiled: https://www.aemintakes.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=21-2038DK#reviews Or this one which has the shape that @EF Ian was talking about but is a bit smaller (5 1/2" height vs 8" height): https://www.aemintakes.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=21-203D-XK Do you guys think #1 or #2 would be better? My only concern about #2 is that it is too small for some reason, but it may let in more airflow than #1 because of the space on top. Or am I just better served getting something else entirely? e.g. like this generic fleaBay filter

I put this in the "turbo" section cus I didn't see any other appropriate place, but it probably applies to the turbo somehow. I have a 1978 280z with an '82 L28ET engine. It is stock everything except for an added oil cooler. I currently have a SUPER DIRTY K&N air filter that sits in front of my radiator via some custom piping. I think the previous owner put this on in 2004 and hasn't changed it since, so I decided I would just get a new one rather than try to clean it (see below). I found the current filter online: https://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=RE-0910 However, I found a very similar but slightly larger filter below it: https://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=RE-0810 The second filter is about an inch longer and an inch wider at the base. However, it will definitely fit in the current space, so it would be very easy to swap to this size. Is it worth it to buy the slightly bigger size? Are there performance benefits/downsides, or will I not even notice this small of a difference?