Jump to content
HybridZ

monster626

Members
  • Posts

    61
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About monster626

  • Birthday 11/18/1977

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://wireworksperformance.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Fort Worth TX

monster626's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

0

Reputation

  1. Check the alternators output on the rear post to make sure it is providing power.....if its working correctly and the gauge reads 12v you should read over 14v at the alternator as it trying maintain 13.7 in most systems. If you do see the alternator is working then you have to much resistance in the wire going to the battery. Most likely from corrosion. Replacing it with the correct gauge wire should correct the charging issue.
  2. The 8920 is the only adapter that I have found to work on our z cars with no issues every time. But when purchased used its hard to tell them apart from the 8910 that looks the same.
  3. So.... What are some of the processes that you have gone through to try and rectify the situation? From what you have posted it seems like you have a vacuum leak which is causing the high idle.
  4. oops....maybe i should read the time stamp
  5. the Na and the tt power steering mounts are completely different....you have to use your NA pump and NA mounts and an NA belt..... That will work.... And yes the belt will only have 3 ribs but will work great.....Paul
  6. if you are useing a sport 1000 or 2000 you can use the quick tune function to aid you in getting a base map make sure you have your set up in the computer correct you must have a wideband installed you will also have to set you afr map set your base timing to what ever you want 10 degrees or 15 degrees free rev your engine up every 500 rpm and use the Q key for that one cell of the W key for that cell the one above it and the two to the right. by the time you get up to approx 3000 rpm you can take your ms values and linierize them to the right a couple more cells.......you should be able to drive the car at low speeds to use those keys to get air fuel corrected. after you get air fuels you can tune for timing..........i do not recommend just guessing at this.....find a shop with a load bearing dyno to do this for you .....it is very easy to set up the top end for boost/fuel/timing it is a whole other thing to set the drivability where you get both power and fuel economy
  7. sorry about that post above. what bar do you need? 3bar - 3.5bar - 5bar you can also use the aem brass pressure sensors that are approx. 75.00 they can be wired up the same way and calibrated within minutes. Paul
  8. yes, that would be me. I plan on getting some screen shots of the actual ecu manager soon. Paul
  9. [/img][/img][/img] I just wanted to show the unit........neither are currently available for sale but will be shortly. If you have any question please ask. Paul
  10. I realize that this post is a year old but i am working on a z32 and don't feel my timing map is set correctly. would you have just a timing map you cold share so that i can compare what i have?
  11. I just wanted to inform the z32 group about the coming release of the Haltech Platinum Pro PNP for the z32. Although there have been rumors for years about possible testing and availability, the unit does exist. I am currently testing a unit on my car at the moment and as of yet cannot find anything to fault. I controls all functions of the stock car and has an optional 4 input and 4 output sensor adapter. Also to be released in the near future is an expansion box that will allow users of all sports series and pro series the ability to add 12 input/ outputs to the existing unit. Hope to be able to give you more information in the future.
  12. should be able to fool the ecu with a 1 mega ohm resistor in place of the knock sensor......if that stops the issue then it is either your knock sensor is bad or you really have issues in the engine the resistors cost 99 cents for 4 at most basic electronic stores like Radio Shack
  13. you should be able to fire the msd with the haltech ignition output......... Make sure you have the Nissan trigger setup and that you are using a distributor wheel of the z31 or maxima. when you take it out of the z31 make sure to mark what side is up so that it is installed the same way in the 280zx distributor..... if you don't have the z31 distributor wheel you can only run batch fire which is fine if you are not using individual coils..... if that is the case you only have 3 wires that need to be connected to the distrib...ground,power,signal I will try to get the pinout for you tomorrow the haltech only puts out a ground signal to the white wire of the msd if you want to test the msd just remove the coil wire from the distributor and ground to manifold connect msd wiring as in the instructions and ground that white wire for a moment you should see a spark at the coil wire if not then the box is bad if wired in correctly hope this helps Paul
  14. you should just use the trigger wheel out of the maxima or the z31 distributor.....that way you have the 360 degree marks and the six trigger marks with a larger home window...... I have installed 5 of these on z's useing the platinum sport 1000 and 2000...... you could also then just select the nissan trigger and be done... Please make sure you have a wideband before you play with tuning... Paul
×
×
  • Create New...