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zguy95135

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Posts posted by zguy95135

  1. It depends, 280's are easier to find and are a lot cheaper. Its not too hard to lighten the 280's, the huge bumpers weight a bunch (about 150lbs) so does the stock AC, header, put on lighter wheels (even stock alloys) ect. Plus they already have a stiffer chassis over the 240. On the other hand 240's are rarer and more expensive, but are more flexy. BTW check out this awesome 8 point front brace, wish I had $250 I could spare :(http://www.pdkfabrication.bravepages.com/240%20front.htm

  2. Haynes should work, and if the timing is off I would get the tool for it http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=60-9921&Category_Code=TE Without it the tensioner will pop out and be a huge PITA, and then you will have to take out the radiator, fan, water pump, harmonic balancer, and front cover. I have had to do this twice, its not fun :evil: . If you dont have any problems with the tensioner then it is pretty easy to fix, and should only take about 30-45 mins at the most. BTW you want the rectangle indentation to be as close the the left side of the V as possible

    http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules/coppermine/albums/userpics/14952/normal_timing%20stuff.jpg <-- I still need to adjust mine a little (sorry for the blurry pic)

  3. Take a look at the timing chain again, your car sounds like it has the same problem as mine. Bring the engine to top dead center (look at the big pulley on the front of the block, and make the timing mark line up with the 0 on the marker) then take off the valve cover, if you take a look at the sprocket in the front there are 3 holes in it. If you look inside the hole at the top there is a V shaped indentation, and a small rectangular indentation behind it. You want the rectangle to be on the left side of the V shape, if you have a shop manual it will show a drawing

  4. In Switzerland they have new bathrooms that are made entirely out of one way glass, so no one can see you but you can watch people walk around while you empty yourself. I dont think I would use one.

    normal_from_outside%7E0.jpg

     

    normal_from_inside.jpg

  5. If you have a good power drill (not the battery kind) and you get a buffing wheel and compound it works good on aluminum. Even if you dont sand it, it'll give it a nice semi-shine and then you can hit it with semi-chrome (sp?) and it would look nice. It wouldnt look like chrome, but a soft shine. Thats what I did with my AFM anyways

  6. To take off the rail, disconnect the fuel lines that are in front of the valve cover (btw you might want to cover up the lines with a rag since fuel will come out of the rail and lines). The rail also has two brackets that hold it onto the intake manifold and one in front under the valve cover, unscrew them and loosen the clamps on the injectors. There might be some vacuum lines attached too, but after that it should come off.

     

    Good luck working on your first Z, Im still working on mine too :-D , and welcome to HybridZ!

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