twoeightythreez

L motor is aluminum head unless it's a diesel. Not agreeing or disagreeing on the rest of the forum, but one thing I'm sure of is that the L24-26-28 has an aluminum head. If it had an IRON head than nobody would say squat about keeping it there because a typical V-8 swap would weigh LESS and move the weight rearward.

Wow....that's one mean 2L motor! Some serious props, too considering it's still the factory engine...how many people can claim to run 9's on the factory motor? ) Bet u surprise many a monaro or falcon in that thing. (The look on thier face must be priceless when they see an economy car smoke 'em) I was in Aus. last yr, we stopped there on the way home from the gulf.... I can say that if I ever decide to live outside the US Australia is where I wanna be. Fremantle reminds me of my birthplace, Bethlehem,Pa Not a bad thing at all

MSII arrived yesterday! Also got a line on a BOV and an intercooler is on the way! I also checked out the turbo and it's a stock T-3 with internal wastegate, rebuilt. I guess I'll find out how well they work. The N/A motor I'm trading for an electric boost controller. (Motor runs but definitely needs a rebuild) It's all coming together! Will be turbo soon! I'm gonna run the stock turbo injectors for a little while, make sure the motor is straight. (Will keep it around stock boost) Thank you all for all your help! Now just have to put the MS together.... (got the laptop)

Besides, trust ME, the ZX N/A trans is NOT STRONG. My stock internally L28E with the crappy N47 head eats 'em like kids eat candy I'm on my third tranny now. I'm keeping it when I go turbo cuz I don't have the $$$ to get a stronger tranny yet. To prove it, I blew 2nd gear in that thing, cracked the case, and ruined the shift forks, in a car that can't even break into the 14's. It's certainly a reliable trans (After I broke it, I drove it home- over 60 miles- with NO fluid.) Of course, I drove easy. It's certainly not strong, though. You're thinking of the Z32 N/A trans. Yes, those are strong.

Why would you have to swap the rear end? I think the N/A 3.90's would be a hoot with the turbo motor. THe only diff with the rear in the 280zx (they were all R200's if they were stick) was the ratio. Turbo was 3.54 open, N/A was 3.90 open (possibly some had 4.11's but not sure) and the automatic had a 3.36 R180 (b/c an R200 with a higher ratio then 3.54 is a rare animal) The auto needed the higher gears as it was only a 3-speed, non-lockup auto. Besides, he said he had the WHOLE CAR, so if he wanted to swap the entire drivetrain over, he can. I believe the halfshafts were CV type in the turbo and U-joint in the N/A but you dont need to change the rear, just pop the stubs out of the rear (held in by a c-clip) with a prybar (carefully) and swap the turbo 'shafts in. THey only go in one way. Just make sure if your rear happens to be a 4.11 in your ZX N/A you swap the shafts from left to right. I put a 4.11 in my '78 (the rear was from an S12 200sx) and the shorter stub happened to be on the other side. It's really an easy swap (the rear) I did it in about 3 hours, which included pulling the 3.54, cleaning the 4.11, making a new rear cover gasket, installing the 4.11, filling it with oil, swapping the speedo gear, and road test. The worst thing that you will have to do is go buy a speedo pinion for the T-5 that's a few teeth less so your speedo will read right if you retain the N/A rear, the d/s should bolt up. If the flange is different, just bolt the one from your turbo rear onto it. I'm going to keep the 4.11's when I swap to turbo. I'll probably end up with a rubber-burning, traction limited beast but it'll be fun.

I really love it when I try to explain to people that a Jap VG30DET from a fairlady is the same as a USDM 300ZXTT VG30DETT, (they're both built in japan and any difference is likely engine management) and they don't believe me. "NO! It's got better parts inside!" SO I ask "like what" and they say "I dunno, but it has to because its the JDM motor." Hilarious. I can understand if the JDM motor is something you can't get here, like an SR20DET but a VG30DE for cryin out loud? Something has to be done about this JDM complex.

Also, whats up with the skyline light craze? I think they only look good on a skyline, but apparently people think they look cool on accords, eclipses (they look absolutely HIDEOUS on an eclipse), etc. I'm talking about actual skyline taillights, not the ones that are similar. I think it's a product of the JDM craze (everyone knows one of these people, too....the JDM version is better, doesn't matter what it is, it's better cuz it's JDM.) I know a couple people who watch nothing but JDM anime (with no subtitles) wear JDM sneakers, and are looking for JDM parts for thier mustang. (because everyone knows that anything sold in Japan, even if it's a Ford, is better than a Ford sold here.) Ahh...the JDM craze...good for a laugh.

At '06 MSA show I saw a custom 80's Z car with custom lights. It had camaro taillights (69 camaro) under a plexi full-width cover

The article in SCC was pretty awesome. If you notice, however, the lightening holes were drilled ONLY in places (such as bumper mounts, dash mounts,etc.)that didn't affect the strength of the car, plus it had a cage. (the S2000) The 350Z was ordered to be as strong as possible without using a cage. So, the builder bought new OEM frame sections and other body sections, swiss-cheesed them, trimmed them suitably, then welded them ON TOP of the existing unibody. Nowhere did they drill structural components.

Thank you for the info! Will def. check into that laptop. Though I have posted an air compressor I won't be using, brand new, pep boys 25gal. 110v compressor. I never took it out of the box when I moved to my apt. I can't use it here and after this I'm moving back to Pennsylvania (Lehigh valley native, specifically allentown) I have posted it to trade for a laptop that works, and has the stuff I need to use MS (like the operating system, power cord, power adapter, and possibly an internet access card of some sort) Or for an intercooler. I do (eventually) plan on running some boost. Funds are tight right now, especially after buying the megasquirt. Since the engine I came across had no ECU or wiring, or AFM, I figured I might as well buy the megasquirt, since I would probalby spend close to what I paid for the MS kit and sensors by the time I got everything I needed. I will upgrade the turbo sometime in the future, don't want to upgrade the box at the same time. THe 4-bar also comes with a separate barometric pressure sensor to allow the MSII to make altitude corrections. For now, I'll run the stock turbo that is coming with the motor, since it's rebuilt.(and most importantly, it's already there ) I have to take a closer look at the pieces I got, as they are still at the person's house who bartered them to me. (I traded a 510 wagon, rotted and with a nissan 720 rear, but ran/drove for the stuff) I might need a stock wastegate assembly. I'll post more when I have updates. But here's what I have so far 1983 L28ET with (apparently) a rebuilt P90 Various intake manifolds (early to late) which should I use? stock exhaust manifold with rebuilt T3 turbo stock downpipe (anyone selling an upgraded pipe, as I have 3" exhaust...again I want to install stuff with upgrades in mind, so yes, I have a 78 Z with a stock internal L28E and a 3" exhaust!) MSII coming in the mail Speedhut boost gauge (matches the speedhut gauge faces that I was part of a prototype group.....check it out! (speedhut.com) EL gauge faces, your choice of colors, fonts, and illumination types, starting at about 70 bucks, as they have the tooling done now...I paid 129.95 for mine, but glad to pass the savings to anyone interested) On the speedhut thing, you actually "design" your gauge faces. Later, when they are about to manufacture them, they call you and verify. Great customer service. They are based in the midwest. SPeedhut disclaimer: THe faces actually are made for 240 and 260z's you have to (carefully) modify the volts face to allow the alt. light to poke through...but the 280z gauges will be volts and the 240/260 will be amps. EL is great for that, as as long as you're careful with the Xacto you can't tell it was cut. (as in the face will still work) Custom fuel rail (for supra injectors) 60mm throttle body (I also have one on my Z already, I'll jsut choose the better one) The stuff will go into my Z which is equipped with: 81 Zx N/A 5-speed (I know, I know, I will be going Z32 trans when I can) Fidanza flywheel and C/F stage II clutch rebuilt stock radiator stock A/C (why not keep it, it works) 4.11 200sx (S12) non-lsd R200 diff Stock halfshafts (when will these break? I hope not before the trans) full sound deadening treatment, full interior, full bumpers, etc. Probably weighs 2900lb (lots of sound deadening and foam) stock N/A fuel pump Narrow band 1-wire O2 sensor w/ speedhut AFR gauge (analog readout!) 16x7 OZ wheels with custom "Z" centercaps, 225/50R16 tires Suspension, brakes still stock Here's what I still need: 3" downpipe (I have stock one but since I already have 3" exhaust...) Stock (with bigger spring, etc.) or external wastegate (if external I need adaptor too) *I might be wrong here, but Sal says there is no wastegate so I probably need one* Intercooler and piping Blow off valve Aformentioned supra injectors (440cc?) Like I said before I'll start out with stock turbo. I have read about people getting nearly 280whp/400lb-ft on the stock turbo@20psi when running MS so I think it'll do until I get a better tranny. In fact I'll probably keep boost under 15psi until I get a better tranny. This one is rebuilt and it still gets peed off when I hit 2nd hard...e.g. when I actually get it into second faster than grandma because I have worn out the syncros (I do admit...I drive her REALLY hard) She groans for a second when taking the power from my stock L28E (with a header, exhaust, and tweaked AFM, otherwise stock) that admittedly is doing alright (9.8@66.5 in the eighth, 15.2 @90 in the quarter) Actually ,I haven't done 1/4 since swapping in the 4.11, the 15.2 time was logged with the 3.54's and the 16" tires! I'm duly impressed with that junkyard dog motor. (I bought the car from the junkyard almost 4yrs ago and never even did a valve adjustment since...though it needs one...my point is I've NEVER OPENED THE MOTOR AT ALL...so it's doing alright. Thank you for answering! This forum rocks!

I've also gotten tuning that flapper AFM down to a science, on highway cruise at light throttle she goes so lean that I had to turn off the lean warning indicator on my (narrow-band) air-fuel gauge, it pegs the needle (yes a needle, speedhut sells A/F gauges with NEEDLES, cool,huh) on "lean"..but as soon as I get load she richens right up. WOn't have to worry about it for long though, going MSII and turbo! I'll be happy to sell the '79 tweaked AFM for cheap though once I get the turbo swap done.

I once got 25 or so in my '78, I haven't checked lately but I've gone to work and back in it for a week and a half now, it's 17mi. one way, plus some short hops, and it still has over 1/4 tank. I also had duty on Sunday so I drove to work 6 days last week. So..guestimating that I'll make about another 50 or so miles before fill up...17x18=304+50=354mi, will take on anywhere from 13 to 16 gallons meaning this tank will yield me anywhere from 22-27mpg. I have 4.11 gears, a header, 3" exhaust, drive 80-90mph consistently and have a 5-speed with a .745:1 overdrive.

I also forgot to mention...the fuel rail bolts to the lower runners, the upper plenum covers them (which is why it's such a pain to do inj. swaps but for custom intakes it looks fah-bu-lus!

Oops forgot to mention coil-on-plug ignition. Sorry I know this is the wrong place to mention all this but it starts with fuel delivery and just wanted to share the interesting design of the engine!

More VH45DE notes: Galley-feed super-expensive fuel injectors (nothing a custom fuel rail won't solve) Take the "bundle of snakes" upper plenum off and you see.....INDIVIDUAL intake runners (anyone wanna fab a tunnel ram with a roots on top?) Said intake runners are HUGE (about 2" diameter, I'm not kiddin) and SMOOTH with very few bends Injectors fire straight at the valves, and the port goes STRAIGHT down to the bores On L/H cyl. head there is a block off plate that looks suspiciously like a dizzy block-off (the bolts are bigger but looks like a nissan dizzy would mount there? hmm) A Cam Position sensor on each head (kinda set up like two I-4's) Two megasquirts maybe? Huge, 75mm or larger TB with a TPS eeirily similar to the one used on a stock S30 FI car...hmm... IAC on back of snake plenum has an easily adjustable idle bypass screw And I've read engine weight is within 10lb of an L28! Sweet!

I priced factory Q45 injectors -$250 each Bosch new $140 each Bosch reman 125-each Python-80 each Beck-Arnley 110 each but they sent the wrong ones the first time (top feed) and then didn't list the galley-feed ones. The Bosch were like a month backorder... so I ordered the pythons. In retrospect I should have waited the month and let the car sit---that's about how long it's been sitting now. (and I wouldn't have put about 40 manhours into it) But....I do have the plenum removal down to a science. I can have it off and back on in one hour now. I'm not knocking the car but man the parts for 'em are sooooo expensive The intake gaskets for the lower runners- 35 each. The rubber plenum gasket- 10.75 EACH. (you need 8) The air flow meter is 640.00 The fuel pump is 250.00 One knock sensor is $60. The Vh45DE uses two. (and unlike the old L28ET knockers these go bad when the plastic case ages and cracks..guaranteed after 10 years) So...there you have it...I have a nice 95 Q that I paid $3600 for and subsequently put over 1600 bucks into! In PARTS! If a shop would have done the work (and the base shop wouldn't even touch it, so I did the work myself) you could add another 1500 for labor. Ouch. No wonder these cars that cost 56K new can be had for under 5K now. Again, not to knock the vehicle. It has 170K miles on it and from what I've seen the inside of the motor (other than the rat's nest and faulty injectors/knock sensors) looks new. For the one day it was running right, it drove like new and had TONS of power. Imagine this motor in, say, a 2800lb car! (it has a gvwr of nearly 5400lb...5-passengers at 150each and 150lb luggage+ almost 4300lb of car) So, once these GREMLINS are chased away I should be cruisin in comfort. Hopefully I'll have her fixed within the week (I have to wait for another backordered python craptor to come in) so I can start on the Z car. Z is going turbo, finally doing something engine related after owning and driving for over 3 years! NA L28's truly are unbreakable (barring doing stupid stuff like driving without water or oil) Maybe the motor swap will convince it to quit smoking?

Probably sounds awesome, too. I am shivering in anticipation now with my Z. Anyone want to buy an L28? The guy who I traded the 510 for the turbo motor and some other trappings needs to clean out his garage, so we're gonna start the motor swap in my Z next weekend. I will try to put up some pics but since my dig cam. was stolen I don't know. I bought a MSII yesterday and am waiting for it in the mail! Can't wait! I've assembled stuff like that before and it's pretty exciting when it actually works! I also got a speedhut boost gauge made to match my other faces (EL glo, blue faces, with blue numerals at night) I'll pull the dash when I put the MS in because I have to fix my tach! I plan on using the stock '78 N/A wiring harness with the MS, I still need a stock wastegate for the turbo, an I/C and BOV and some decent injectors (I have some new stock turbo injectors but they won't work with the custom fuel rail) and I'll be almost ready to break my tranny! Yummy, lotsa fun!

Here's the story. It's not a Z but I do have a Z. I bought a 95 Q45 a few months back, nice car. Had some minor issues, which got worse. I found out rats were liking the engine wiring. So, I pull the plenum off, pull the lower runners off, pull the fuel rail and discover leaky fuel injectors. I decide instead of sending mine out for cleaning, I'll just buy some reman ones. BIG MISTAKE. I find out that the cheapest ones are from Python, at 80 bucks each. The parts guy said they are good, so I decide, what the heck, I'll get 8 and have no worries. I also order intake seals from infiniti (fel-pro only makes VH45 intake gaskets for 90-93) and such. Also new knock sensors, as mine were bad. I spend the next day fixing the wiring, then wait for my parts, which take 3 days to arrive. I put her together, after ohming the injectors and verifing that they are the correct high-impedance jobs. Start her up, she's running on six. Didn't touch the plugs, coils, nothing. Put a hose up and yup, cyl 3 and 4 are NOT FIRING. Can't be the injectors, right? Check for voltage on the connectors, all good here. Plus, the MIL didn't light, so the resistance was still in spec. I pull the plenum again, pull the offending pieces, and put voltage across them. No click. Darn. Check resistance again. 11ohms, just like the other six. Hmm. Ok, have to order 2 more. Take the old ones back on Monday (the base auto store is not open sat-sun) and order 2 more. I have put the injectors from cyl 1 and 2 atop 3 and 4, and put the plenum back on, as it's a major pia and you can (barely) reach the fuel rail on 1 and 2cyl when it's all together. Wednesday the replacement parts arrive. I check them, seem good. Install them, hey hey! I'm actually on all 8! I take her for a test drive....man this VH45 sure pulls around these 4300lb well...imagine this motor in a Z! I go back , clean up my stall, go home. Park the car at my apt and go to bed. Next morning, I get into the Q to go to the boat. Start her up, CEL comes on instantly and she's missing...bad. Drive to work anyway. (maybe it'll go away....puhleeze!) Go to the hobby shop and check injectors. Damn #3 isn't firing...again. So, I meter it. 10 ohms. Probably the meter is out. So, there you have it. Out of 8 injectors, 3 failed. only a 43.5 or so failure rate, that's not so bad right? Can't be, right? I check for pulse on the wire. Good pulse. Plug it on another injector just to be sure, and it clicks. So it is the freakin' injector. Again. Damn pythons. should be called "boa constrictors" because they make me want to choke myself. Geez. I'm just trying to warn everyone. don't buy python injectors. Absolute crap. It can't be improper installation. I went according to PYTHON's procedure, provided with the injectors. I might have messed up once but TEN TIMES? I don't think so. Crap, crap, crap.

Well, I have spent most of a day looking at searches and printing, organizing manuals and such...and most of my questions are answered. I am in awe as to how much MSII can do! (Though no boost controller, but I plan on going simple for that one, I need to take another look at the rebuilt stock turbo that is still at the other guy's house....he says there is no wastegate, so I possibly might be interested in buying a stock wastegate.) Anyone have one laying around? So, here i am, just anxiously awaiting my MSII to come in the mail, btw, anyone have a i/c & bov laying around for an S30? I'm interested.

I want to get a 3" downpipe for my '78 after I do the turbo swap because the rest of the exhaust is already 3" (installed 3 years ago but with a turbo swap in mind)

Hey guys, I just ordered a MS-II, with a 4-bar MAP and the GM IAT sensor. I also ordered the pigtail harness so I can hook into my stock N/A wiring harness on my '78. I am planning on going turbo, and I have the engine, the manifolds, the turbo, and the downpipe.(though if anyone has an S30 3" downpipe complete with external wastegate I would be happy to buy it from them...as I already have a 3" exhaust!) I don't see a problem with the assembly of the MS (I have already assembled computer power supplies) and with the wiring (I rewired my '68 510, with an '80 200sx harness) but software confuses the crap out of me. What do I need to program/ run the megasquirt? I've seen a few posts where a PDA is used. I have neither a laptop nor a PDA so which is the best option for me? Does the MS come with the software or do you need to d/l it all? Thank you for all your time, HybridZ rules! Sorry if some of these questions can be answered by a search, I'm still looking and haven't found specifics yet.

Why not paint it flat black?

I hear they've built an indoor downhill ski slope !

Dubai is real nice, just blot out the sand and the 100+ degrees and the robed men with the women 6' behind them and you could be in an american city

I know it's not the same but stationed on Nimitz since Jan '02, floated out there for 8 months in '03 and 6 in '05. We got real lucky and only lost a few people, of course not due to combat, but to accidents. Ship is going back sometime next year but I'm probably getting out next march, will enjoy working on my Z. Good luck to all still out there/going out there.