twoeightythreez

That's weird, my 280 speedo doesn't have a pin. The stop is internal. Of course, my 280 speedo STARTS at 10mph, and the internal stop also keeps it from advancing past the 6'oclock position. This made it easy for me to swap needles since I had no worry of the spring unwinding. In your case, I would mark the drum in back of the speedo before you pull the needle so you can re clock it at the same spot. I don't think not having the pin will have any adverse effects though, other than the needle "parking" wherever it wants to. As long as the clockspring stays connected you should be fine (though I would keep the speed down in reverse if you have no stop on the speedo drum, otherwise the needle could unwind enough to disengage the clockspring and then you have no speedo at all) I think the best solution is to NOT cut the pin, but to measure carefully and carefully drill a TINY hole to allow the pin to come through. It won't affect the EL material. I know this because i had to modify my voltmeter face and it still works.

water can also get into the AFM connector, symptoms are similar except the engine will only rev 2200rpm! Actually, first it won't start, then when you THINK everything is dry.... it'll run 2200rpm for a few days. DON'T GET THE AFM WET!

I changed your title in my reply because this is what it sounds like you're describing. When it does this again, leave key in "on" pos, make sure you're in Neutral (or P with auto) and pull the spade conn. off the starter solenoid, jump it to the batt. term (the one on the starter, not the actual battery!) with a screwdriver. If the car cranks over and starts then... reconnect the solenoid spade connector...then... (If it's an automatic) Turn key to "start", hold it there, get on the brake, and move the shifter through the range. If it starts, adjust or replace the inhibitor switch. IF nothing happens, replace the lock cylinder/ign. sw. assy (the ign sw usually does not go bad, it's usually the lock cylinder cam that bends and won't completley close the start contacts, which then fries the ign switch contact) (If it's a stick) Replace the lock cyl/ign sw assembly. TO test it, prior to replacing it, unbolt the ign sw. from the lock cyl and turn with a screwdriver. This is going on your saying that the battery cables, starter, battery are all in good order. My bet is with the ign switch, old nissans (not just Z's) are notorious for this.

datsun280zx81 said "I heard that there was going to be a suped up 350z with 450-500hp called a 450z." IMHO the only factory Z car I would ever condone being called "450z" would have a VH45 in it, only come with a stick, and no stinking options, and would retail for about the same as a base 350z. I'm not dissing the later ZX's but the reason they were called ZX's was because nissan knew that they were going away from the original formula. I guess that's why the new 350z had only z. (Nissan reduced the gadget count compared to the Z32, which killed itself due to the insane japanese gadget race of the 90's) But it's still not a true Z car.

The 350z is NOT a true Z. Before you flame me hear me out. All the qualities that made the Z so popular are like a fire triangle. The Z frenzy was ignited because all of the components to support it's combustion were there. (Performance, Price, Reliability) Take any away and it's just not a true Z. Again, The 350z is not a true Z. The average person can't afford a new Z. Yes, they sell a "base" model, but what's "base" about it? It still has power everything and all the other options that people think they NEED today, especially in california. (where you really don't need ANY OPTION other than A/C, and even then....we are so spoiled today "350zx" is definitley a more fitting name for that thing they sell today. The only reason nissan called it a "Z" was because they wanted to link it with the original (since nothing else about it is even close) Let's see...there are SOME similarities, but it's still not a true Z car. The original was light, lithe, and comfortable for two. The new one is big, heavy, not so agile, but still comfy for two The original was inexpensive, though they were marked up due to demand The new one is expensive, and can't be marked up because otherwise it would be in infiniti territory. The original is still popular nearly 40 years after introduction. The new one is a fad and will be forgotten when the Z34 comes out. In other words, the original has all the attributes of a true Z car. Inexpensive, sexy, reliable, powerful, and classic. The new "Z" is fast and sexy..until next year.... The new Z is trendy and will be forgotten.... The original was a trendsetter and will NEVER be forgotten.

Well I'll give it a shot, lots of Z's like mine I'm sure but here goes...I'll get some pics when the ship pulls back in. 1) Shaved sidemarkers 2)Clear parking light lenses (MSA) for 75-78 Z 3)I rewired the 78 rear cluster (and switch wiring) so both top and bottom section are park/brake/turn 4)Hood vents are painted black, as is the grille, and the body is "FBI" blue 5)Door panels are color matched to the gauges (see #6) 6)Speedhut reverse EL-glo gauge faces, blue with blue lighting, white beetle font, also have matching AFR and Boost gauge, and I am still using factory backlighting (so I can see the needles, actually works well) 7)"Ricer" lights mounted behind the "Z" sail panel emblems (blue) 8)5gallons of "quietcar" and 15lb of expanding roofing foam to make it quiet 9)datsun 1200 "datsun" 1/4 panel emblem frenched into R/H side of dash in place of the factory "datsun 280z" emblem 10)Greddy Profec A boost controller installed below stereo where defog light used to be 11) defog light relocated to the defog switch 12) MS-II built and programmed by me installed on stock wiring and FPR 13) "custom" (hacked apart integra pillar cluster) A pillar mounted boost gauge 14) I converted antenna to full automatic, it's now "stuck down" I guess it didn't like not being used over a deployment damn cheap autozone junk antenna 15)I modified the intake manifold to accept ford 437cc injectors, a JSK fuel rail ,a jeep IAC valve, and an additional PCV valve (so I don't have to use a stinkin breather and make my turbo swapped Z smell like a 60's pre-smog truck) I also relocated the PCV valve closer to the block breather (so the turbo won't hit it) 16) My electric fan uses existing wiring (used to be for the VR dizzy) to provide power (from old IGN module power wire) and ground (through MS pin #30, fidle) to activate a NISSAN relay (looks factory) to power my electric fan. 17) (temporary) Cobbled together piping and rad hoses from various saabs and volvos to make my intercooler connections.

I'll try to get some pics of mine when we pull back in from underway. I have reverse-el glo in mine (blue face, blue "beetle" lettering) I solved the needle problem (trust me, the number lighting is NOT bright enough to illuminate the needles, your eyes will be popping out trying to see where the needle is) simply by using the factory illumination in concert with the reverse el-glo. This is cool because you can use the factory dimmer and the el glo dimmer to get whatever brightness you want. This also makes it look more factory than the other install without the lighting. I can also pull my dash in about 14 minutes ) The best approximation to how it looks with BOTH EL and factory illumination is the title screen for "Coccoon"...y'know how the letters lit up and the light surrounded the whole word? I think it looks cool. The EL lighting is still bright enough that you don't see the actual gauge face due to the difference in intrisnic brightness...and you can see the needle fine. I also like how the turn signal and brake cutouts on the gauge face glow softly when the indicator bulbs are not lit.

I got mine awhile back but never reported on them. They look great! Totally transformed the look of my interior. I do recommend you guys RETAIN THE FACTORY LIGHTING when using these, however, otherwise if you have Reverse EL-Glo you won't be able to see the needles! I had to take my dash out 3 times until I was satisfied with the look. (With the Reverse EL glo and the factory backlighting it lends a cool blue, factory look to it that's still out of this world. Think the "Cocoon" title screen and that's what my gauges look like at night.) I have also indulged in speedhut's other products, namely a matching boost gauge and air/fuel gauge. I just ordered a wide-band so I can tune my turbo swap. I have nothing but good things to say about this company.

Thanks! Now I can learn more about this wonderful powerplant rather than trying to guess what's wrong (though I've done OK so far, but I would rather know what I'm looking at under there)

P.S.- I'm willing to shell out some cash to get the job done, but I would love to help making it and such if anyone here would care to donate thier time to help me I could throw them some cash (I'm just against paying 700 bucks for some I/C pipes when I already did everything else for about that much)

Does anybody know a good place in the San Diego area to get custom I/C piping and downpipes made? My welding skills are about the same as my preaching skills (nil) and I also have to get this done soon so I can finish tuning. I was able to rig up piping and a BOV for now just to get the car driving but it's ugly and most likely leaks BIG time. Even if I had the skills and materials I'm underway almost constantly until my EAOS. If it's any help the I/C is a generic front mount, 24x12x3, 3" inlet/outlet, outlets are one either side, I have an eclipse BOV and a 60mm MSA TB. You can see some pics in the vid I posted of the start-up. (ugly piping, indeed) Thank you for any suggestions.

I'm still running taylor wires on my Z. They're at least 3 yrs old (I've had them that long and I bought them at unknown age) I also added body grounds, and every sensor ground went to my MS unit. I'm also curious to see what the problem is. Good luck!

Originally Posted by Tony D I have seen people back the car onto the dolly and always wondered why. . Me too. Especially when the dolly is designed to turn the front wheels when you turn, so the fenders of the dolly don't hit the car. If you think it's bad to tow a stickshift on the drive wheels in neutral, it's even worse with an auto. (look in any nissan owner's manual, which recommends to tow with drive wheels off the ground, but if you have to have them on the ground, disconnect the driveshaft, and if you can't do that, to limit towing speed WITH A STICK to 50mph and 50mi, and and AUTO to 30mph and 20mi) The only thing that you really can't do with a dolly that you can do with a trailer is back up. (Little chuckles for all who have tried to...it sux)

TonyD, Thanks for all the information! I will look into that when we pull in from our pre-deployment exercises. I think I want to bolt to more than just the bumper struts, though (I pushed them in and ran a bolt through the side so the bumper is tucked a bit closer to the body) I was looking into a trailer but I can always get one of those back in PA in a few months, getting one now is not a smart idea considering I could ship the car for a bit over $1000. I'm trying to do it for less than $500, which the towbar and custom hitch (for the Q45) can do. I was planning on disconnecting the Z's driveshaft if I do it this way. The Q has 175K miles on it but I installed a transmission cooler. I know the whole thing about subjective weight and why the capacities are so low for vehicles. I had a 1997 nissan pickup that I towed a 4400lb Buick sportwagon behind, on a 600lb dolly. It was a 4cyl stick rated to 3500lb (regular cab 4x2, 2900lb truck!) This was back in PA, lots of hills, and I had no problem at all. Yes, I had to ease out from stops,(to protect the clutch) but the engine (KA24E) didn't struggle, not a bit. All the full-size drivers were looking at it with wide eyes, the little truck that could. OF course, I guess that's just a matter of opinion, most of the people that told me to get a "real" truck had a "real" truck that hauled less than I've already hauled in my Z car. (I always told them I didn't NEED a real truck, and neither did they) I miss that truck.

This is probably the most awesome Z pic I've seen yet. THis is a pic that will make chevy lovers cringe, as you can't fit one of these in a Chevy II. My one shipmate is probably gonna turn green with jealousy and rip the printouts up because he believes in driving chevrolet cars with chevy motors and he'll be pissed cuz a Z accepts a BBC better than most chevrolets. Straight up awesome. Makes me want to sell my L28ET that I barely got in. I DID get a great deal on the L28ET though. The coolest thing about this is that If I were to do this swap someday, when I'm back in Pennsylvania, that I could use my Megasquirt for fuel management and I can keep the stock hood! Yup it'll be loud as hell but it's loud as hell right now (no exhaust) just not as rumbly. So it wouldn't be any LESS of a sleeper (than a unmuffled turbo is) I am kissing the ground in front of those pics right now. Awesome!

WHy do I like MS? It's cheap. I don't have much money, even though any extra always finds it's way into my Z. I built it myself, installed it myself, and tuned it myself. And for less than what a shop would charge to LOOK at a car. It works just as well as a mid-range standalone that costs more than I paid for my L28ET, my FMIC, my Profec, my gauge faces, etc. Which saddens me, because since I did so much myself, but don't have a welder or welding skills, it's gonna cost me more than I put into this entire project to get SOME STUPID INTERCOOLER PIPES MADE....because I'm stationed in SoCal where anything that has "custom" or "performance" or "turbo" on the building charges something like 200 bucks an hour and keeps your car a week or more. DOH! I'd buy a welder and learn but I'm going back to PA soon, and have nowhere to store the thing, for what the pipes are gonna cost me (I've gotten quoted anywhere from 400 to 800 bucks for a charge pipe to the intecooler and pipe from IC to TB.) I've done everything else myself and spent a bit more than 1500 bucks. I guess I'll just not get my thing running and tuned till i'm back in PA. Gotta love SoCal....freakin fast n furious craze means there are so many people willing to pay big bucks for shiny stuff, and people that just want quality work get sucked in too. (unless they do it themselves) Not that I'm biased against any Engine management system, but MS sure works for me. The shop I was getting a quote from for the IC piping looked at me like I was an alien when I said "megasquirt" though...I think he thought i was talking about porn

Well I took the plung! I got the relay board, harness, and MS 1 V 3.0. Mister mail man deliverd it today. It looks much smaller than I thought. I've been reading for the past 2 hours. WOW what did I get myself into? I have got to give a friend in FT. Worth a call who has tuned his. So he can tell me what I need to download. I also orderd a Pallnet fuel rail for my Supra 440cc injectors. Anyway There will be a video when she's done. __________________ Phil, Can't wait to see the video! (WIll be sometime when not underway) I love the MS-II, though I have about $300 total into it since I built it. I also used the 280z harness and relays, as you don't REALLY need the relay board, you can chop and use the stock Z or ZX harness. (my '78 harness actually had EXTRA wires after I was done re-assigning wires and such) (though I'm sure it saves a lot of fuss) I was also surprised at the small size of the MS ECU case....initially I was planning on simply installing the MS box INSIDE the stock ECU case, but the MS just happens to be a smidgen too high. (My plans were to wire the DB 37 to the stock Z ecu connector so it could all look stock.) I'm glad it didn't fit cuz the ECU cover will still cover up the MS and make everything look stock. I really don't know why I'm so concerned with that when I have a boost gauge, blue gauge faces, and a profec-a boost controller, but wth. I will admit I installed everything so it looks factory (except for the boost gauge, as I'm not gonna lose my AFR gauge) Ok I'm rambling about it too much. Good luck with MS phil (I know you'll absolutely LOVE it)

I still need to get some I/C pipes made, then continue tuning. I'm underway right now till the end of december, missing my Z every minute!

THe instructions said i didn't NEED to install a pull-up with my MS-II and optical dizzy, but I did anyway (internal pullup is only 300mA or something like that) just to be sure. The 1.2K 1/4W resistor I used fits nicely in the dizzy wiring. I'm using the VB driver and the stock coil wiring and such. (this way it also triggers the stock tach) I did remove the 'transistor ignition module' from the car, and hardwired the coil feed directly to the ECU wire. (If you don't you're going through another set of contacts that you don't need) Plus, this allowed me to use the red and green wires from the module to power the Electric fan relay I installed. THe red wire was spliced into the original ign module power wire, and the green wire was connected to my MS pin 30 (FIDLE), so now my electric fan turns on through the megasquirt

I chose the easy-to-install L28ET I got in exchange for an old 510 but it's nice to know how many options are available.

I built my MS_II from a kit, installed it, and am currently tuning it. It works great. SOrry to hear some don't.

Like 280Zone says, will U-Haul even LET you tow their auto-transport behind your Cherokee? Every time I went in there, it was like I needed to have a 3/4 or 1-Ton pickup to tow a vehicle. I agree, tony, the last time I went into a U-haul they wouldn't even rent me a DOLLY unless I had a full-size pickup.

I'm currently stationed on the Nimitz in San Diego.

TonyD, Are you saying the towbar is still available and fits right to the bumper brackets of a 280? I am considering ways to tow my Z back to PA in a few months (with a Q45) and that option might actually be the viable one. (Though I think the Q would need a custom hitch as the ones being sold are only 1500lb rated or so) I take it I could safely flat tow it as long as I disconnected the driveshaft.

Btw, with MS you don't need a fancy RRFPR, the stock one will work fine. You don't need a wideband to tune it either. Yes a wideband will let you tune for max power but you can tune adequately with a narrowband sensor. Cruise can be stoich or a bit leaner, and just run it a bit rich everywhere else and then just tune it over a longer period until you get max power, just like you used to do with carbs. Plus MS will run any size injectors you want, so you can toss the stockers. (I have 437's from 3 junked TBI 5.0 fords in mine right now. they work great)