twoeightythreez

mine came to 7.0 using the program...6 437cc injectors into 168cid. Mine came courtesy of 3 ford LTD's with 5.0 TBI.

couldn't you just take .020 off the rotor?

"i know that there were Datuns back in the 80s that had 1 lug." As far as I know they all had the 4x4.5 bolt pattern except for the bigger stuff which had the 5x4.5 pattern. Of course the RACECARS had it...but please show me a production datsun with 1-lug wheels on it.

the "ford bolt pattern" is actually pretty common, on Z's it's the offset that kills wheel choice. Lots of cars have the 4x115 bolt spacing, like the 240sx, the B15 sentra, the altima up to 2000, older mustangs, tbirds, falcons and capris, you get the picture. See if you can't find the adaptor for one of those cars, and..umm...adapt it. Or....you could try a "search" on this thread, there are many 5-lug options out there, and 5x4.5 bolt patterns are on almost EVERYTHING nowadays so finding wheels then won't be too much problem, and you could always get a 5-lug wheel that had a screw-on centercap to give the appearance of 1-lug wheel, since that's what you're after anyway (the look)

sounds like a sticky to me. I would post a tutorial like that here as well as the megasquirt official forums. I Know for sure that many people would find it helpful for their projects! __________________ -brandon I second that, even though I assembled and installed my MSII (which wires up almost identical to MS) into my 280, before I turboed it. (It's a good idea to install MS on a car that runs...that way you're not suspecting engine probs) I installed mine using the stock wire harness, and I posted it here, unfortunately I didn't have a camera at the time so there are minimal pictures. It's in a sticky because it has the pinout for the stock ECU and the location of the stock Fuel Pump Relay (Unlike phil I chose to adapt the stock electronics...i didn't want to buy the relay board and find a place to mount it...with my Profec, my electric boost gauge, and the mS, and the turbo swap and huge intercooler, I was running out of room!)

Picture the hour hand on a clock. Now pretend that dizzy driveshaft is the hour hand on a clock. At 10:30 it would be halfway between 10 and 11 and 11:25 the "hour" hand would be a hair less than halfway between 11 and noon....well u get it. They mean 10:30 since the "hour" hand you're looking at is offset (so the dizzy will only go in one way) Believe me you'll never install it wrong again the 1st time you put that shaft in 180 out. (you'll be spewing profanity like Stallone in "demoliton man" when he found out there was no toilet paper in the future...but he still wanted some...."thanks a lot you sh!t brained f#@k faced ball breakin duck f#@kin pain in the a$$!") (But you'll be able to swap oil pumps in ohh.....5 seconds)

Mike says: LOL... Guys, did you guys notice that the last post was January 2004? Hey, you guys should be happy, someone actually used the search function before asking a question

Proxlamas, Thanks for the info. I will definitely check into that, even though i'm not getting oil on the intake side of the turbo. My intake/pcv setup is like this: Stock '78 N42 intake and PCV valve (I cleaned it and it was free when I was putting the parts on the turbo block), the only mod I did was to relocate the PCV valve since it was interfering with the turbo (I removed one of the screw in core plugs in the bottom, and drilled/tapped it to the PCV's thread, then screwed the whole shebang back in, shortened the PCV hose and it looks great) On top I cut the nipple off the throttle body and installed a 2nd PCV valve(it screws in, it will cut it's own threads into the aluminum TB) and put the hose back on from the valve cover to the TB. It should get vacuum there as it's just aft of the throttle blade. Maybe it's too MUCH vacuum and it's sucking oil out of the valvetrain area? Oddly enough, though it seems to work, I also can pull the hose off while the car is running and not get any vacuum there...except when I rev it and quickly close the throttle, but at idle, no vacuum, even though the engine itself pulls about 19-20in/hg at idle.(but it still blocks boost too) It's just that hose, too, if I pull the BOV hose off which is right next to that nipple the engine speeds up by about 1000rpm It's really making me scratch my head. I'll check tomorrow (stuck on the ship today, till tomorrow for duty) to see if the actual passage for the nipple is fwd of the TB as that's the only way it won't get vacuum at idle there, right? If I disconnect the hose from the valve cover I can blow INTO it but can't SUCK any air out (so my added pcv seems to be working...as it apparently is letting air INTO the intake but not letting BOOST out...this is how I wanted it so I could keep PCV and not pressurize the engine) Maybe I am just nuking it or something? should i just get a breather? (I really don't want to, because it'll make my car smell like a pre-wwII car.) Thanks again for the information, I will look it over tomorrow after work. (I have to fix an oil leak at the timing chain inspection cover...whew..thought the oil pump was still leaking...but it turns out to be this little cover! It has covered the entire right front of the motor with oil so far and I've only driven the car about 300 miles since I converted to turbo!

Good Idea, but I don't want to deter you but it won't help much unless the thief knows nothing about cars (all you have to do on a Z is pop the hood & you can reach in there with a small key or screwdriver to crank the engine, the power to the starter itself is right next to the solenoid wire ) It'll be a cool little trick to impress your friends with though. I hope you fused that 12ga wire, unless you like melting stuff in case of a short, a 12ga wire could actually set your car on fire before it parts from the heat. Sunmaster, you're actually reversed, in a DC circuit current (electron flow) flows from negative to positive. In a negative ground automotive circuit that makes sense since the body of the car acts as a giant bus bar for power distribution. The actual current flow for the starter solenoid is actually out the neg terminal, through the engine block, through the solenoid windings, then out the wire, through the ign sw turned to "start", into the wire harness, through the fuse panel and then the electrons complete thier journey by re-entering the battery's postitive side. The magnetic flux created by the electrons flowing through the solenoid pulls the plunger back which completes the circuit to the starter windings, as well as pulls a lever which forces the drive gear against the ring gear. Since the lighter is grounding when you push it in it's creating a short, which is melting the wire. Doesn't the lighter already have a power supply? Couldn't you just tap off the body of the lighter (neg. side) to a standard fog-light relay's relay coil? This way you're not passing tons of amps thru something not designed for it. Plus, the resistance of the relay coil is high so you won't have a short, and the lighter should still work. (since you'll be wiring the relay in parallel instead of series) The other terminals could just be spliced into your existing ignition wire so it won't pass current to your starter solenoid. Here's a general idea of the relay connections 4 terminals on a relay 86, 87, 30, 85. Usually the relay coil is 86 and 87 usually the contacts are 85 and 30 have your wire to the solenoid on terminal 30 ignition switch on terminal 85 terminal 86 to - side of lighter (keep existing ground though) terminal 87 to a separate ground This way (i think) the ligher will still work as it should (relay field coil takes only 300mA or so) and the switching function will switch the relay. This way when u push lighter in you'll see 12v on the relay coil which will close the contacts and allow you to start the car with the key. The lighter since it will still have it's own power source and ground will heat up, pop out and disable your starter. This is basically how flashing sidemarkers work, one side of the bulb is wired to ground side of turn signal bulb. When lights are off the turn signal grounds thru the sidemarker light, which makes them both light. When lights are on they flash out of sync since 12v is present on both sides of the sidemarker bulb when turn signal lamp is on, since no diff of potential no current flows and bulb goes out. This is why you can't have power on lighter from batt and also have power from key, no current will flow. Ok enough blabbering for me.

Mine (L28ET) doesn't smoke at cold start, but starts smoking heavily 10min after startup. Compression ranges from 160-170 across (which seems high for turbo motor but...) If I drive the car the smoke seems to dissipate, and it's fine until I let it idle for awhile again, and then I carpet the rear with smoke. If I pull the hose off the valve cover (I still have this going to the intake thru a 2nd PCV valve, and it seems to be working, admitting vacuum but blocking boost) while the engine is smoking there is no smoke puffing out of the valve cover. The turbo outlet has no oil film on it. I don't get it. ANybody have ideas? Is it possible for a turbo seal to leak only into the exhaust when the car is sitting, then just have smoke as the exhaust heats up? I'm at a loss here.

My 280z that I swapped an L28ET into has what I think is the turbo dumping oil into the exhaust. I start it up and no smoke, and if you let it idle for 10 minutes smoke will start POURING from the exhaust. If I pull the breather hose off no smoke comes out (of the valve cover)while it's doing this, and compression is great. I still have the hose connected to the TB but I installed a 2nd pcv valve (I cut the nipple off the TB and the stock PCV just threaded in...like it was made to go there..the PCV threads are a lot harder than the aluminum of the TB) to keep from pressurizing the engine under boost. It works well, I can blow thru the hose but can't suck air thru it. If I drive the car it smokes for a few minutes and then goes away. It starts smoking again after a few minutes idling, any ideas?

I filled those holes with expanding foam, replaced the hatch seal, (actually I replaced all the weatherstripping), filled the hatch with foam, and then sealed the trim panel to the hatch. I have no exhaust smell problems anymore (now I can smell the intake mixture that wafts thru the firewall when the BOV vents, it's quite a bit more pleasant than exhaust anyway) I also have boost leaks, I had the IC piping made yesterday but I believe it's leaking around the TB (My ghetto IC piping held boost, this stuff does not...odd)

Awesome! I can hear that you still need to tune quite a bit (so do I but...) Wait till you get it close and can set the accel enrichment! (I can hear the slight stumble when revving her up, when you get it right you'll be almost free revving) Oh ya...you don't need a wb to adjust the idle...you should be able to get her idling at around 31-32kpa pretty smooth...that's about 12-13:1 AFR

bigphil:I now need to put all the wires away. Man so many wires....I have the MS plus the Profec A plus the boost gauge plus the LC-1 wires going through that teeny grommet...talk about a tight fit! I guess my years working as an IC on the Nimitz got me good at pulling and tucking cable :oP

My trigger advance is 50 degrees, works well that way for some reason...this is one of the things that's so cool about megasquirt....as long as you know where the dizzy is clocked, you can basically put it in any way you want and MS will get the car running. So Cool.

Sorry, but you're on your own for the timing map...for some reason I can't take a picture of that for crap!Hint: timing at 20kpa goes from 8 to 40 degrees, and RPM scale goes 500/900/1500/2000/2500/3000/3500/4000/4500/5000/5500/6500 I'm currently idling around 760-900 (depends on whether the headlights or electric fan are on or off!) I am happy so far, I can slowly let the clutch out with brake on and she will (unhappily) idle at 300rpm...so I'm really close now.

Oh ya, my dwell is 3.7 max.

here's some less blurry pics. I have 437cc injectors (ford TBI 5.0) My Req Fuel is 7.0, here goes reqfuel ve table warmup wizard acceleration wizard my afterstart enrichment is 1% my cranking pulse width is 9.0ms at -40F and 2.5ms at 160F. Just got these done today, car drives EXCELLENT, still needs some work but almost ready for the 3000+ mile drive to Allentown a month from now (fingers crossed!) Don't need no stinkin shipping company! )

sorry for the blurriness...will take more tomorrow!

here's mine....still needs lots of work. I have trouble getting mine to idle, too. (I have to run a 11.5:1 AFR at idle for some reason, will work on that tomorrow after my I/C pipes are ready) afr table ign advance table ve table oops blurry! cold advance table I have 437cc (used) ford TBI injectors (yeah I had to find 3 cars) advantage is they use bosch connectors like the nissan injectors

I have duty today.....only 8 more hours and Iget to see Mrs Z again.

COngrats! I luv my megasquirt. I'll post my maps asap...they work extremely well (but also extremely rich) I'm at square one again as I try to tune leaner (the IDLE was 12:1, WOT was 7:1 and at 6psi I still have as much power as a stock L28ET ZX) I kept wondering why I was still bogging when my accel enrichment was set to like 1.7.... then the wideband came in and I realized...WHOA! Good luck phil can't wait to see the vid!

I don't even use Ebay anymore...too many damn scammers anymore..why there's a car on this forum that's been posted on ebay about 5 times or so, without the actual owner's knowledge...shame since Ebay is such a great resource..but I refuse to use it (the last time I did I sold a car, but then somebody else tried to sell a piano and a motorcycle with my account)

Basically anything on Ebay that claims to add hp to ANY car should be regarded with extreme suspicion

see thread on #9 resistor mod.....gives you 10hp, 20hp if u put a sticker on the driver's door ;oP