PrincePaul

Alright, thanks for the input. So I`ll definitely buy steel braided lines and I also replace all hardlines to be on the safe side. The looks point of a disk setup is really strong in this forum I have to agree. Just when you scroll through the brake threads. The first thing is rear disk conversion... What I want to accomplish with that "upgrade", is a longer lasting brake that makes use out of the semi slick tires and holds that level of brake bite. As I`m replacing every component which is in touch with fluid or has o rings inside anyway. My way of thinking was to spend a little bit more and get better parts in straight away. So basically it doesn`t make any difference if I buy a new 7/8 master or a new 15/16 master. By the way willwood or Arizona Z or whatever setup where you see straight away that this is not factory. Massiv milled aluminium parts in red, orange etc. is not gonna happen here in germany if you want the car road legal. With the toyota setup you are still able to show them the nissan competition catalog and that should be alright. Its not that easy here with all these regulations... I just found out that the rear wheel cylinder is 7/8 original iaw the FSM. So thats actually bigger than what they used for the FIA brake with the vented rotors. Which were 13/16".

Alright, that pretty much concludes what I thought/read over the last days. Probably go tripple weber than. For myself I can`t justify the price of a modern EFI with the old ITB or carb look. Especially as I`m not planning to run 300 HP.

Some news here? Would be interesting to see some dyno sheets of some kind. L28 EFI vs. L28 tripple weber Of course you get more mileage out of the EFI setup but what happens to hp/torque. Am I understanding it right, that when you change the exhaust and to an other cam that its hard to tune the stock EFI to it?

Hello Guys, first post and straight a brake thread - I`m sorry, but I read hours on hours in the FAQ section and in a lot of other brake related threads but couldn't find anybody who has done this. So on the weekend I bought a 78 280Z and I´d like to go down the performance road while still keep it kinda periodic correct so I don`t get problems with TÜV in germany and a historic licence plate. So the car will get fully striped down, an exterior backdate to 240z, suspension upgrades, fender flares, exhaust, maybe tripple weber (have to inform myself a bit more on that vs EFI) etc. etc. A lot of people go straight to a rear disk brake conversion and complain about the brake bias and sometimes even damaged axels due to a different load on them compared to drums. Basically thats not what I wanna do plus the TÜV thing mentioned above. But what about keeping the drums in the rear, change the front to S12W and go with a 15/16 master. If I`ve seen that correctly thats what they did back in the day with the original FIA brake upgrade out of the competition catalog. They just went with 13/16 wheel cylinders inside the drums. (not sure about the mastercylinder with FIA brakes...) I just can`t find the size of the original cylinders inside the drums... Somebody did that conversion here in the forums? Is it working well with the original proportion valve or is a manual one capable of dialing in a proper brake bias? Probably have to run a couple calculations to find out (which seems not that easy with drums). But as of the drums are able to create a higher brake force with less hydraulic input they should work better as a rear disc conversion. What do you think? Any help or experience is welcome