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Found 3 results

  1. Hello Guys, first post and straight a brake thread - I`m sorry, but I read hours on hours in the FAQ section and in a lot of other brake related threads but couldn't find anybody who has done this. So on the weekend I bought a 78 280Z and I´d like to go down the performance road while still keep it kinda periodic correct so I don`t get problems with TÜV in germany and a historic licence plate. So the car will get fully striped down, an exterior backdate to 240z, suspension upgrades, fender flares, exhaust, maybe tripple weber (have to inform myself a bit more on that vs EFI) etc. etc. A lot of people go straight to a rear disk brake conversion and complain about the brake bias and sometimes even damaged axels due to a different load on them compared to drums. Basically thats not what I wanna do plus the TÜV thing mentioned above. But what about keeping the drums in the rear, change the front to S12W and go with a 15/16 master. If I`ve seen that correctly thats what they did back in the day with the original FIA brake upgrade out of the competition catalog. They just went with 13/16 wheel cylinders inside the drums. (not sure about the mastercylinder with FIA brakes...) I just can`t find the size of the original cylinders inside the drums... Somebody did that conversion here in the forums? Is it working well with the original proportion valve or is a manual one capable of dialing in a proper brake bias? Probably have to run a couple calculations to find out (which seems not that easy with drums). But as of the drums are able to create a higher brake force with less hydraulic input they should work better as a rear disc conversion. What do you think? Any help or experience is welcome
  2. I wanted to try to upgrade my brakes mainly the S12+8 caliper. However, I ran into so many problems because I tried to piece it together with parts from friends and things I could find on a budget. After a long time of trouble shooting here are my problems that I ran into. All parts needed will be highlighted. 1. The 240z stock brakes S line. These won't fit any set of calipers you get from sumitomo/toyota ones. You will need to bend them but I just chose to delete it. I bought myself some braided brake hose with AN-3 leads and M10x1.0 FEMALE adapters since that's the thread and shape s12w, 12+8, stock etc use. (2) Brake hose -3AN straight to straight M10x1.0 female inverted to AN-3 male AN-3 male to M10x1.0 male inverted 2. What calipers did my friend just give me !!!! I was given some S12+8 VENTED calipers. This lead to ALL of my headaches. Thanks Man!!! Some people say that the (S12+8 vented) and (s12+8 non vented) are the same casting but I think that they are slightly different. What that means, simply, the calipers poke out more than your stock ones and the non-vented s12. This made me need wheel spacers because I am running the 14x6 0 offset slotted mag wheels. (Depends) Wheel Spacers for fitment 3. I ran stock 240z rotors (I have the stock hubs *they are finned*). BUT and this is a big full bodied BUTT. My dumb butt was reading the wrong build. So I had this horrible pad to rotor clearance. I could drive it but the pistons on the calipers were almost popping out. LOOK AT ATTACHMENT ONE AND TWO. 4. S12+8 vented needed different rotors and those rotors needed a spacer. So basically I am forced to upgrade to vented rotors... oh what a shame . I ordered some TechnoToyTuning spacers. This is a warning for (S12+8 Vented) people, if you buy the (S12+8vented) you are now doing the same build as s12W guys. Brake Hub Spacers 300zx rotors 1984 model LOOK AT ATTACHMENT 3 AND 4. ANITSIEZE the SH*T out of surfaces that touch The bolts provided with the Techo spacers where way too short. So had to buy new hub bolts. The thread for the hub bots are M10x1.25 length of depends. I got 40mm. 5. Interesting fact about S12+8 calipers. So some say that the castings are the same THEY ARE NOT!!!! Look in the attachments. I have pics showing what I mean. I have mixed calipers. Attachment 5 is considered a (S12+8vented) caliper and this shares the same casting as the (NONvented12+8) but notice the metal spacer in between the two sided(circled in red). This means that the caliper will stick out more and may interfere with your wheels and stock rotors will not work well. Attachment 6 shows a caliper without the spacer but it is also an S12+8 vented. This means the castings although are stamped the same they are different. 6. LASTLY........... You will need washers to put behind the caliper mounting brackets about 2mm (depends on clearance) (4) Washers to space out caliper TOTAL COST 250$ AND A HUGE HEADACHE
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