Garage_junkie
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Everything posted by Garage_junkie
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Metal work complete next step body work
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Week 11 at the body shop
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Motor complete starting on the body work, I found a great shop near me.
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20190620_175822.mp4 VID_36940322_042459_605.mp4
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I had a 16" space saver rim made up I couldn't find a 16" 4 lug rim. The tire is a 115-85-16. That keeps me at 24.5" the same as the others.
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Small update motor is done for the second time. I made a change to the coolant passage that was cast into the head by removing it and building a bolt on manifold. The harness is 50% done, I'm being told that it will be Dyno'ed mid June.
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Get closer to getting it on the Dyno 😁
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I picked up a couple new parts for the Skyline
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Twin cam head for the L6 from Derek at Datsunworks
Garage_junkie replied to Derek's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
There complete and yes there they are close. -
Header complete. Head is off to Rebello's and the trans is out for the last time I hope.
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Very cool
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I had the Sub frame rails extended all the way to the back of the car. I figured it would be necessary with the expected horsepower from the motor. I couldn't have been more happy with the out come. I prepped the floors by removing the tar sound deadening with dry ice. Guy talked about about doing it and my welding supply sales it by the ton so i gave it a try and it work great. I had to enlarge the tunnel slightly for the CD009 6 spd. Here are some prep pictures of the 6spd tranny with the JWT bell housing adapter and CBF shifter
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I ordered both the AMS & Centric and they both came in right.😁
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Nice build tread nice to see another Hako.
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I ordered 2 clutch masters from Rock Auto I'm hoping one is right and it there both the right ones I'll have a spare
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I order one from Amazon but got the one I have I'll try it again.
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I'm looking for a Datsun 710 clutch master it will give me 3/4 of an inch clearance but I have to find one.
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I leaned the motor over to the other side to gain more room for the induction system and I figured that if it worked for the S20 engine it would work for me. There is a little more to it than that but maybe later. it leaned over 10 degrees to the 1 o'clock position I modified the cross member and one of the motor mounts. The mock up block is a LD 28 so the height was right for both the hood clearance and the header.
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I leaned the motor over to the other side to gain more room for the induction system and I figured that if it worked for the S20 engine it would work for me. Ther is a little more to it than that but maybe later. it leaned over 10 degrees to the 1 o'clock position I modified the cross member and one of the motor mounts. The mock up block is a LD 28 so the height was right for both the hood clearance and the header.
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I had been planning on a RB 3.3 with throttle bodies and a nice stainless steel header. I had collected almost all the part to build the motor except the RB 26 cylinder head. I stopped by my local Engine builder who I've know for more than 30 years. As we where talking about the engine build. Let me back up a little bit my good friend was encouraging me to go a different route. He said keep it and L based motor. The car might have a higher value if to maintain a L based motor. Back to where I was. Talking to Dave the engine builder about the RB and the HP it would produce. He turned the conversation to a new cylinder head that a guy out of Florida was making. He went on to say it's a twin cam 4 valve. So long long story really short I decided on a 3.5 Liter twin cam 4 valve cylinder head that out flows the other head Better known as the Datsunworks head. Tha last time I drove the car was to take my 10 year old to a local ice cream shop that was last Oct. I would like to say I been busy and a lot has gotten done but you can be the judge. Lets began the prep work. Some where along the way I stared to strip the paint and primer the car. The body can see all the flaws
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Here are some old engine bay pic's from early to Late. I install a bone stock engine I was just looking to make it go down the road at the time. I fell into a great deal for a set of 44's and a header for $ 600.00. I was planning on running a set of S.U.s and a cast manifold. I still have the motor it's for sale cheap 20170521_154227.mp4
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The first few pictures are with the old 14" Wats
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Here are some rear brake and suspension shots. The diff is a R192 Locker in black paint. Design Produces did the front and rear cross member with monoball construction. R192 next to a R180
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Because of the tire issue I started with the suspension and brakes. I joke with my buddies I only want to do things twice. Im on my 5 version of the rear brakes & second on the front