Sean73

If you're so worried about Dodge honoring your warantee, should your trans break, why on earth would you consider these mods for a Honda? You will end up right where you are today with the SRT. If I were you, I would leave the SRT stock for a while, and see if the problem gets any worse. Have the dealer replace the tranny fluid and check clutch alignment, on your dime if neccessary. Also, get clarification in writing on what is covered, and not covered under warantee.

Why would you even consider trading it in as opposed to selling it to a private party? So, let's say you trade it in, and the amount is just enough to pay back the loan. That means that all the payments you've made up to this point have been for nothing, other than to rent the car for 6 months. That doesn't sound like a deal to me. And.. a civic SI... if you got bored of the SRT in 6 months, you'll be bored of the Si in 3 months. You'll be losing 50 HP, and you'll be losing at least 110 ft-lbs of torque! No amount of bolt-ons will fix that, other than a turbo kit, which will set you back several grand to get you performance comparable to the SRT in the first place. I don't like to rain on people's parades, I am sorry... I am sure the Si is a great car handling-wise, and a fun daily driver. But you are on Hybridz my friend... we have grand expectations of power. We are all about what is super-powerful, unpractical, and extreme. The Si makes me want to go to sleep, looks and performance wise. Just one man's personal opinion.

I like Clifton's setup. Then for another minute of work, you could insert that extra bolt through some old refrigerant hose.

I love Porsches, but have you guys priced engine parts $$$$$$$?? It would be a fun & cool modification, but for the cost of buying and rebuilding a Porsche flat six NA, you could probably get an RB26DETT that's ready to drop in. I dunno about the 944 or 928 engines, maybe the parts a little cheaper, but I doubt it. I've always wanted a 911, and everytime I see a fixxer upper for sale in my area, I start pricing parts, and I quickly come to my senses.

Norm- My wife is an NP and I asked her about this. Blood and urine will tell you nothing about what's happening with your eyes. The MRI and MRA are needed to see if something is pressing on the optic nerve. Good luck.

10 psi is about the upper limit of non-intercooler stock L28ET, with stock injectors running on pump gas. For your setup, 10 psi might be to much, due to the higher static CR, and possibly the N47 head design. You also might be leaning out due to dirty injectors or a failing fuel pump. Try 7-8 psi and see what happens.

I had my Z painted a couple years ago. It was a $1500 paint job, and I felt like I got my money's worth for my budget at the time. One thing I didn't do is have the windows removed. Now, if I ever have to replace the rubber on the car, I risk damaging the paint along the margins where it was taped off. The margin around the windows will always be a weak link in the cars finish. If I have to replace a window, there is always a chance that the new gasket will be a little thicker than the old, thereby covering up the paint edge. I wish I could be that lucky. Anyone have any experience with this dillema?

500 miles of city driving. No high boost or hard launches.

I agree it's the clutch slipping. John - did you break in the clutch properly? Once it starts slipping, it's only going to get worse.

I have a set of brand new ones that I never used. You can have them cheap. PM me if interested.

What about your Sentra daily driver? If you're wife is driving it, then why not just get another one? Save your $400 car payment for a few months, and go out an get good used beater with working AC, and pay cash for it.

It looks to me like the damage goes way below where the peened part of the nut touches. I wouldn't use it, but maybe a die would clean it up. I got my die from harbor freight, as part of their big $80 metric tap and die kit.

These flattops went into my motor. I took this picture before assembly.

I don't think you've ruled out the actuator yet. It's possible for the actuator to perform fine for stock boost levels, then get sticky at high boost levels. I had a faulty actuator one time, which I discovered by testing it with my air compressor. It would open partially, then stick for a while, then suddenly jerk open all the way. I think I would try a bleeder type MBC and see how it works. If it still spikes, then turn your attention back to the actuator.

Yes. I am running flattops. Pallnet also runs this setup. A search will yield lots of info and debate.

I think you leaned it out to the point that you developed a misfire at idle. Misfire = unburned fuel, and more fumes. I pulled this little blurb off a Google search: # A Rich mixture will increase HC and CO (but lower NOX) emissions # A Lean mixture will reduce HC and CO emissions but NOX goes up (unless mixture is very lean) If you're running without a TPS, this can also have an adverse effect on idle. The TPS is supposed to command the ECU to run rich at idle. If the TPS is disconnected, or not functioning, then you have to adjust the AFM extra rich, just to get a good idle, but unfortunately this might alter the rest of the fuel map to be too rich. Same deal on running without an O2 sensor. At cruise, the ECU wants a 14.7 A/F ratio. Without an O2 sensor, the ECU doesn't know how to lean out in cruise mode, and you have excess fuel going out the tail pipe. My stock Z31 ECU always runs a little on the rich side at idle. I solved most of my fumes problems by sealing up the rear of the car w/ new gaskets & weatherstripping, and adding a longer exhaust tip.

I think it might be timing and gearing. When you adjust the AFM for bigger injectors, you fool the ECU into thinking the engine is at a lower load point then reality to avoid overfueling. Unfortunately, the load (and RPM) is also used to set the timing according to the timing map. So, essentially you're shifting the timing advance curve to higher loads. I bet in first and second gear, you are getting very little timing advance, because the ECU thinks there is no load. Without timing advance, spool-up is sluggish. It seems to be a flaw in the AFM tooth adjustment strategy. The situation would be worsened by 3.9 gears, which won't load up the engine in 1-2 gears. A way to test this would be to lower the boost level to the lowest setting of your MBC, then add a degree or two of timing at idle, and take a test drive. See if the extra timing makes a difference. Also, you might have overshot the AFM adjustment a bit, since you are running lean off boost. Back off on the adjustment, and see if you can find a compromise between off-boost driveability and full boost safety. The happy medium in fueling might also find you a happy medium in the timing curve. On my home-programmed Z31 ECU, adding timing to the vacuum section of the timing map makes a huge difference in spooling. Even so, I don't always reach maximum boost in 1-2 gears before having to shift with my 3.7 diff and 720 truck tranny (not good ratios for turbo car). I hope to fix this with a 3.54, and as much timing as possible in the vacuum portion of the maps. Hope this helps.

Update - After taking a bunch of measurements, It turns out to be about .007 runout on the stub flange. If I measure just the inner circle of the flange, I get about .002. So, the distortion gets worse further out from the center. It would seem this thing is bent. I had thought of turning it on a lathe, but I wonder if the stub axle is just going to break on me later anyway. Now I am seriously considering the billet stub axles, but thats going to set me back $$$

On one side, the runout is definitely coming from the stub axle. I get .005 runout on the stub axle flange. Some simple trig indicates this translates into .013 runout at the end of the rotor. I need to check the runout at the inner companion flange and see if indeed the entire stub axle is wobbling. If so, I guess it needs to come out (what a bitch). Maybe I will try retorquing the stub axle nut first. Also, I'll try taking the measurment with the wheel mounted and see if that makes a difference.

I am trying to finish up my rear disc conversion. My dial gauge shows a .015" runout on the left and right rotors. The rotors are new Brembos. The runout seems to be coming from the stub axle flange. Perhaps the rear wheel bearings aren't seated perfectly square ( I recently changed these to 280Z stub axles)? They are torqued down to 220 ft-lb, so it seems everything should be seated ok. Is it worth pulling apart the stub axle, or should I just have the rotors turned on the car and be done with it? .015" seems like a lot, since the FSM specification is .003. Any advice greatly appreciated.

Those dealer add-on evaporators were basically shoved right under the blower housing. A couple of screws attached to the firewall on the backside of the unit , and a metal strap on the front side attached to a metal crossbar under the dash. Basically, It was a cheesy install from the start by the dealerships. The evaporator only fit loosely on to the blower housing because of the poor mounting, causing poor AC performance. I've seen many kludges on junkyard cars to try to fix this, including tape, silicon, and home weatherstripping. My solution was to pull the blower out, and attach the evaporator and blower housing together permanently with sheet metal, ensuring a tight fit. Then I re-installed the whole thing as an assembly. It was a pain to put it together this way. sorry-no pics. If I had to do it again, I would probably look into a Vintage Air unit.

Don't forget you need resistors for the 88T ECU, as well as a titania oxygen sensor, and the appropriate O2 bung adapter. If you don't want to fuss with this stuff initially, you can get a 84-86T ECU that doesn't need resistors and uses a regular O2 sensor.

AC shops sell an extension hose that will relocate the service ports off the compressor to someplace more accessible. Depending on your compressor, you might be able to get at the service ports from under the car. I had this problem on my 240Z Turbo with AC. I tried the extension hoses, and those worked fine. But the last time I had my system evacuated, I took the car to an AC shop, and had them cut my low side line, and install an inline service port.

Thanks for the ideas. Has anyone ever tried heating the tap with a torch, and then shock-freezing it with some refrigerant? Hopefully the tap would shatter on it's own without damaging the surrounding material. I already located a replacement manifold, I just hate to throw a N42 intake out.