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Neubs

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Neubs last won the day on November 28 2018

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About Neubs

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  • Birthday 02/04/1985

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    http://youtube.com/builtonpurpose

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    Male
  • Location
    Toowoomba, Australia

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  1. A little more has happened with the EFI build. Dual lambda sensors is what! I had planned to run dual lambda sensors on the Hitachi SU carbs if I had not the opportunity to work with Whitley Tune and the sport injection setup. The goal now is two injector banks with target AFR maps. I run a Zstory 6-2-1 header and I decided to locate the sensors at the collector of the primaries to mitigate the risk of air contamination through a joint. Its probably overkill but it seems sensible to have the most accurate reading possible if I’m trying to have the most accuracy target AFR map for
  2. Time for some Megasquirt ECU mods! I had configured the MS1 V3 board for ignition only. Some additional work and mods are needed to make it fully armed and operational for EFI. In the process I broke a leg off one of the current resisting devices for the injector banks I will have to buy new ones from DIYautotune as they are hard to get with the hole to mount on the heatsink. Thats really all that is left to complete on the ECU. In summary I've added: second WBO2 sensor input second Nissan optical trigger input fan relay control 2
  3. So, stock 4 screw round tops can support at least 201.6rwhp. There may be some debate over how the dyno calculates hp but there is a decent increase from the last dyno in hp and torque from essentially a tune to the fuel and ignition. Tune is super rich which could be fixed with different needles like TF but I wanted to get a run in in case QLD requires a lock down to manage the pandemic. I’m super chuffed. When I set out to home build the L28 stroker motor all I wanted as 200RWHP with triple Webers. To think I could achieve that with the standard carbs is amazing! I’ve attache
  4. Hey all. A bit of time has past since my last post. Not a lot has progressed on the 240Z. Only a bit of refinement with the ignition map on the Megasquirt really. I’m almost happy enough to hit the same dyno to see if my tweaks pay off. I have had the suggestion of swapping out the SB needles to TF needles which I am contemplating but I want more logged data to inform my choice. With the time away from working on the car it has given me time to think. I’ve decided to convert to EFI. I’m excited to be working with Whitley Tune as a guinea pig for a future ‘Sp
  5. I bit of perseverance (and a new CAS haha) has paid off! I have a functioning L20ET distributor that my Megasquirt MS1 can read. I fiddled with a few mods to the board taken from a few sites that have V3.0 board info. Ultimately I could have left the mods at removal of C12, C30, D1 and D2 but I left one of the diodes in as backflow protection. I didn’t need a pull up resistor but I left the one I had installed from the S12c pad. The Fuelmiser crank angle sensor Sparebox first sent was faulty through bench testing. Sparebox quickly replaced it which was great. I sla
  6. Its always frustrating when things don’t go to plan. All the parts arrived to rebuild the distributor much faster than what I was advised and I had the dizzy housing PBM blasted and scrubbed to a raw appearance. I really like to look of the housing. I’m still hesitant to commmit to swapping the oil pump drive shaft to the turbo shaft until I know for certain that this dizzy works. So the dizzy was put back together and mock wired to the Megasquirt for an RPM signal simulation. No dice. Didn’t work. Nothing. I suspect the new crank angle sensor is not a functioning unit but wil
  7. Its been a while since my last post about this car. The brakes have been rebuilt. You can see those videos on the channel. In summary for the brakes: • Rear drum cylinders and MC were sent to South Coast Brake Resleevers • The MC was stuffed but the resleevers had a NOS MC lying around so I got that which I’m chuffed about! • Rear drum cylinders were resleeved to a high quality cause they were shagged • I rebuilt the front calipers myself So the brakes are on and bleed but I have not go little red off the blocks just yet. I really
  8. Back to rebuilding the brake system this week. I decided to stick with drums on the rear. Having made that decision both the rear brake cylinders and brake MC will be sleeved to last longer than I will. So the rear brake cylinders and MC came out easy enough. The left side brake cylinder is properly frozen, not even the adjuster nut came out with ‘hammer time’ persuasion. I thought that I’d need to get new rear cylinders but after a chat with chap (after the youtube video was made) who will be handling the sleeving, the sleeving workshop can get anything apart.
  9. I was going through my spares and came across some distributors from the Nissan RB30 motor. The RB30 SOHC motor is common in Australia used in the mid to late 80s and internally seems to be similar to all the distributor based ignitions at the time produced by Nissan. 280ZX turbo otipical dizzies are rare as hens teeth in Australia. I thought this would be a good substitute. I have a 12-1 replacement chopper disc from DIYAutoTune to replace the 360 slot standard one which could allow my to convert from the MSD unit to COP. Before I let my enthusiasm get th
  10. What started as a bleed of the brakes has evolved into a brake system rebuild. As long as I can remember the right drum brake cylinder bleed nipple has been sheared off at the base. It’s one of those things that I’ve know about but never actioned fobbing off to do it next time. No excuses now. Time to fix it. The end game brake goal for this car is a set of Sumitomo MK63 font calipers to retain the standard master cylinder. Not sure if vented or solid rotor. I guess this will be dependant on what’s available. I’m not in a rush to get a pair and considering it is l
  11. Cheers! It’s nice to get feedback and I hope you enjoy the content.
  12. Thanks for that. I currently have the trigger angle set to 0 degrees. Do you think this might be a problem? I have wondered if this may be a problem and have thought of shifting the leads around one location in the dizzy cap and setting the trigger angle to 60.
  13. Following on from the strange ignition behaviour I thought it worth making up a cheap digital det can / engine stethoscope to aid in determining if something more serious was happening. I drew inspiration for an old Autospeed.com article I read probably around 2001. http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0353 The basis was the Jaycar ‘bionic ear’ Short Circuits kit aimed at junior electronics. This kit had all I needed only requiring a few little bits and pieces to customise. The kit was assembled as per instructions and recommendations in the Short Circuits
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