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Neubs last won the day on November 28 2018

Neubs had the most liked content!

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About Neubs

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  • Birthday 02/04/1985

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    Wide Bay Area, Australia

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  1. Back to rebuilding the brake system this week. I decided to stick with drums on the rear. Having made that decision both the rear brake cylinders and brake MC will be sleeved to last longer than I will. So the rear brake cylinders and MC came out easy enough. The left side brake cylinder is properly frozen, not even the adjuster nut came out with ‘hammer time’ persuasion. I thought that I’d need to get new rear cylinders but after a chat with chap (after the youtube video was made) who will be handling the sleeving, the sleeving workshop can get anything apart. So rear brakes and MC have been posted away. I’m looking forward to the results!
  2. I was going through my spares and came across some distributors from the Nissan RB30 motor. The RB30 SOHC motor is common in Australia used in the mid to late 80s and internally seems to be similar to all the distributor based ignitions at the time produced by Nissan. 280ZX turbo otipical dizzies are rare as hens teeth in Australia. I thought this would be a good substitute. I have a 12-1 replacement chopper disc from DIYAutoTune to replace the 360 slot standard one which could allow my to convert from the MSD unit to COP. Before I let my enthusiasm get the better of me I decided to check a few things first. Datsun 240Z L28 stroker – fitting an RB30 distributor - part 1
  3. What started as a bleed of the brakes has evolved into a brake system rebuild. As long as I can remember the right drum brake cylinder bleed nipple has been sheared off at the base. It’s one of those things that I’ve know about but never actioned fobbing off to do it next time. No excuses now. Time to fix it. The end game brake goal for this car is a set of Sumitomo MK63 font calipers to retain the standard master cylinder. Not sure if vented or solid rotor. I guess this will be dependant on what’s available. I’m not in a rush to get a pair and considering it is likely to come from Japan I’ll wait until a good deal surfaces. I’ve have a spare pair of Sumitomo S16 cailpers and rebuild kits plus brake pads to cover off on the fronts. The rear drum brake cylinders look new so I’ll get some rebuild kits for those. The master cylinder I will remove and send away to be stainless steel sleeve which should make it good for life. I am bummed that tuning is on hold but it is important to have road worthy car.
  4. Cheers! It’s nice to get feedback and I hope you enjoy the content.
  5. Thanks for that. I currently have the trigger angle set to 0 degrees. Do you think this might be a problem? I have wondered if this may be a problem and have thought of shifting the leads around one location in the dizzy cap and setting the trigger angle to 60.
  6. Following on from the strange ignition behaviour I thought it worth making up a cheap digital det can / engine stethoscope to aid in determining if something more serious was happening. I drew inspiration for an old Autospeed.com article I read probably around 2001. http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0353 The basis was the Jaycar ‘bionic ear’ Short Circuits kit aimed at junior electronics. This kit had all I needed only requiring a few little bits and pieces to customise. The kit was assembled as per instructions and recommendations in the Short Circuits 2 guide. I simply lengthen the single core screened microphone cable and fixed it to a battery clamp. I tested it on my TD5 Defender daily and I could hear plenty of extra noises in that motor that’s for sure! As the kit uses a electret microphone it picked up all the noise. I think I will find it hard to isolate specific sounds, detonation being a primary one. For a first round its not bad though and I think I will gradually improve it over time such as switch to a piezo transducer and perhaps an alternate amplifier board. As soon as I can get some Penrite Super DOT 4 brake fluid to replace my stock and bleed the brakes, which is proving difficult in my ‘regional’ area, it’ll be road tuning time!
  7. Off the back of pre-tuning experience I thought I’d combine the LM2 WBO2 into the Megasquirt so I could log all my data in Tunerstudio. Why have two screens to look at while tuning right? It was a pretty simply process simply wiring the analog output 1 from the LM2 to the DB37 harness. I did have to calibrate the Megasquirt to match the LM2 AFR outputs which I pulled form the LM2 using Logworks. The prefilled Innovate Motorsport WBO2 sensors in Tunerstudio did not match the LM2. I think it was 7.32 @ 0v and 22.39 @ 5v. So ready for some tuning. But first I want to make a digital det-can beforehand just to check the strange ignition behaviour of the motor. Stay tuned (pun intended).
  8. Thanks @NewZed! The FSM I have doesn’t have that information. The original distributor was a D606-52 with a ‘6’ plate. I’m not fussed with the behaviour of the engine. I mean there are a hundred micro things that could be contributing. Proof will be in the pudding come dyno time. As long as the engine makes more power I’ll be happy.
  9. So the little niggling issues continue. While travelling to a local informal coffee and cars show I discovered a problem with the ignition timing. It felt like an ignition ‘wall’ at around 3,400 RPM. My first thoughts were it was something other than the ignition advance. I’ve had 36 degrees in this motor when it ran the tripled 45DCOE152s years ago. I just assumed the engine could take the same again. I was going to check the signal form from the Pertronix in the event that signal noise was causing interference. I wasn’t real sure how to condition an I/O type signal. In the end it was the ignition advance. When the table ramped up to 31 degrees at 3,400 RPM, the engine couldn’t take it. Trialing lower advance in the same areas of the table allow the engine to rev properly. I’m glad it was an easy fix and I am surprised that with running the SUs with SB needles that the engine characteristics changed. A new chapter has been added to my ‘book of Datsun’. Anyway the ignition table has been revised to lower advance levels and hopefully this will be a suitable base for some road tuning. If anyone has come across changes in ignition behaviour with different setup ups, I’d love to hear it.
  10. The moment of truth arrived for the first startup with the Megasquirt configured for ignition only and the SB needles in the SU carbs. The distributor needed to be aligned with the trigger angle parameter in the ECU which was easy to to. I did hit a road bump with a leak from a MAP vac hose that was larger than the onboard MAP sensor barb. That was fixed with a smaller vac hose 3mm in diameter from Super Cheap Auto. I had to buy the stand out blue coloured silicon stuff made by SAAS because the roll of non descipt black was empty. With the problem fixed the car runs but I want to revisit the ignition table before driving and adjust the SU mixture nuts after. The idle vacuum is a little different to what I thought it would be and revving the engine without load cause some hesitation around the 3k RPM mark which makes me think I have the advance ramping up too fast in the table.
  11. I was able to play home tuner using Tunerstudio to set put the parameters and rough in an ignition table for the MS1. There wasn’t a lot to set up with an ignition only configuration, the ECU is pretty under utilised as far as it’s overall capacity. Even though the hardware does not exist for the injector circuits, I zeroed the injector table data. To bench test the MS1, I used the Megastim board and a syringe with vacuum tube for the MAP. A 60ml syringe wasn’t big enough to generate enough vacuum to get to the closed throttle parts of the map but it was helpful still. I had help from Godzilla Raceworks who saw one of my Instagram posts and offered up an example tuning file from an MS2 used on a similar engine. I’m very appreciative for their assistance. https://www.godzillaraceworks.com/ There are a few items I need to address before attempting to start the car with the MS1 and new SU needles. The vacuum line for the MAP needs a home on the intake manifold and the signal wires from the Pertronix unit need a little tweaking to introduce voltage because the Pertronix unit doesn’t generate its only power, its only a switch essentially.
  12. I snagged some time over the Christmas break to fault find the Megasquirt MS1 install. I 100% expected the problem to be something simple. Sometimes I hate it when I’m right… I hypothesised two possible problems. One being the ECU itself and the other the wiring loom. The ECU powered up and connected to the Tunerstudio when plugged into the Megastim board. Happy days that the ECU was not toast! This left the wiring harness. Voltage was getting to pin on the harness. That left that the harness was incorrectly made, that the voltage was going to the wrong pin. A quick review of my notes, physical verification and sure enough power was going to the wrong pin. A quick swap of the pin and the ECU powered up when connected to the wiring harness. I’m glad it was something minor and simple. Next stop, ECU tuning!
  13. Finally got around to mucking with the megasquirt wiring harness. There isn’t a lot to wire up with the MS1 in ignition only configuration. It took nearly a week doing little bits here and there coming up to Christmas. It didn’t go to plan but the advantage of this being a project car is I can just shut up the garage until next year! Merry Christmas all and have a happy new year!
  14. Mech advance in the distributor is locked! It’s slow progress but thats better than no progress. Next is wiring the megasquirt! I can’t wait to test the launch control feature and see if I can’t blow up the exhaust.... Share the vid if you know someone who might benefit from it.
  15. I found some interesting parameters in the Tunerstudio software about launch control and flat shifting which got me thinking and consequently the megasquirt case hasn’t stayed assembled for long! I’ve build a protective circuit on the prototyping area to ground a 5v signal from JS11 leg of the CPU. This will be used to trigger launch control and flat shifting functions. I don’t know how this will function with the SU carbs as the MS1 is only controlling ignition. I suspect backfiring will ensue! I’ll have to build a clutch switch if launch control passes testing. I want the car to be about function not form. If the launch control doesn’t prove useful, I’ll bin it. Oh and the wiring loom of less than ten wires is also complete……
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