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Found 12 results

  1. I think I better start firstly with a quick intro. Hello from the Wide Bay area of sunny Queensland in Australia. I’m a long time ‘guest’ lurker to the HybridZ forums mainly for research and ideas particularly when it comes to round top Hitachi SUs. I’ve loved Z cars since I first laid eyes on one in my early teens when I went to a historic race meeting at a local track with a friend’s family (who also have an affiliation with Datsun 1600/510). There was no escaping the ensuing obsession. This was only made worse by the inception of the Fast and Furious franchise coincidently at the same time I acquired my learners driver licence. I am shamed to say I have had at least one car with “cool” under body neons…. On to the car! This particular car is a 1971 chassis number #629 purchased in 2009. The car was a daily driver retaining the L24 and had a 280ZX gearbox and ignition. I believe it was Victorian sold in a blue colour and was repainted to red in the late 80s or early 90s (judging by the Australian fashion sense in the photos). I have maintained continuous registration of the car as well. The car has had various levels of priority around my life choices and events. I think I put less than 1000 miles on it between 2010 and 2017, is this considered Datsun abuse? I am now at a stage where I can tinker with it more and crack on with a long time goal to leave a legacy of my experiences and information on YouTube and lessor so on Instagram. One immediate goal is to try for 200WHP with only optimisations to fuel, ignition and exhaust. There are gaps to the story thus far which I intend to fill in with further posts. I want to keep this post short and sweet. Cheers, Neubs PS. The current specs are: ENGINE (currently making 170WHP) - Overbored and stroked to 2996cc - Approx. 10-10.5:1 compression ratio - L28 F54 block - L28 N42 head, 1.0mm O/S Ferrea Super Flo valves and match ported - ‘V07’ LD28 crank, balanced, knife edge and nitrided surface - L24 connecting rods - Modified Mistubishi pistons - Crow Cam camshaft; - 292° duration 0.495” valve lift intake - 296° duration 0.510” valve lift exhaust - Innovate Motorsports LM-2 datalogger and wide band O2 sensor COOLING - Ebay 75mm alloy radiator - 2 thermo fans - 280ZX thermostat with Tridon temp switch IGNITION - Pertronix Ignitor I module - MSD 6A ignition - L24 distributor with ‘7.5 plate’ and vac advance FUEL DELIVERY - Rebuilt round top 240Z Hitachi SU carbs with ZTherapy rebuild kit - SM needles with higher set fuel float level - Holly Red fuel pump EXHAUST - ZStory stainless steel Race/Sport headers - ZStory stainless steel Z432 style JDM muffler - Recycled mild steel centre pipe and generic hotdog muffler TRANSMISSION - 71C RB20DET gearbox - Exedy ceramic clutch and pressure plate DIFFERENTIAL - Standard rebuilt open centre 3.9:1 R180 - Standard uni joint drive shafts BODY - Restored Japan polyurethane front bar INTERIOR - Stock (and very worn out) - 280ZX modified tacho SUSPENSION - Stock springs - Stock brakes - Stock geometry components - Koni adjustable shock absorbers ROLLING STOCK - Rota RB-R
  2. Hi: Doing some research and cannot find this; maybe it doesn't exist. Any stock pistons (flat-top or minimal dish) that will fit an L6 with roughly 30mm pin height in 86-88mm bore dia.? Thanks.
  3. Hi all, I'm searching for a rear/mid-sump LD28 oil pan with the factory 'kick outs' (little wings on the side, that increase the pans capacity). Associated oil pickup tube would be a plus. From what I can gather these are primarily found on industrial use LD28s (i.e. forklift, marine pumps, etc.) Not currently interested in modifying a front sump pan, or any home grown creations. Thanks for looking Photos for reference: (Thanks rayaapp2 for the photo of the pan going into the S30 chassis)
  4. hi guys. looking for a ld28 crank to complete the parts for my stroker, must be willing to ship to malaysia, if you have other stroker parts id be interested too
  5. Hi guys I am looking for a LD28 Crank from a nissan maxima.
  6. Hey, I'm looking to piece together a stroker. I'm looking for: ld28 crank(most of all) 240sx pistons p90 head Thanks Christopher
  7. I have a SR20DET redtop motor, transmission, wiring harness, and ECU up for trade. I apologize, but I do not know the exact mileage. This motor was pulled from a running 240sx that was rear ended. There are absolutely no known issues with any of the items. I can certainly provide pictures upon request. I would like to trade for: The common 3.1 stroker setup L28et engine, transmission, wiring harness, ecu LD28 crankshaft + cash stroker components + cash Feel free to call or text Christopher @ 405-412-1676 for more details. Thanks for your time!
  8. I purchased a redtop sr20det from a guy parting out his 240sx. I have the engine, transmission, and wiring harness. I would like to trade for an l28 stroker or an l28et, transmission, and wiring harness. I'm located in Oklahoma City. Feel free to call or text Christopher @ 4o5-4one2-1676.
  9. I have a few LD28 motors I am parting out. I'm looking for full coilover set for my '73, new intercooler, sti r180 rear end, t3 ball bearing no shaft play. Cylinder head, valve cover and exhaust manifold. -50$ ea Bare block -80$ ea (ill throw in the pistons, rods, and bearings) Injector Pumps, hardlines, and injectors -150$/set (1 left) V07 crankshaft -900$ obo (1 left) Intake manifold -200$ (largest runner diameter of all L series manifolds) Rancho Cucamonga, CA Call or text 909-708-7671
  10. hey there, looking for an ld28 crank in good shape, unfinished but straight if possible. hoping to pay under $300 as I have to ship it up to Canada. may be interested in L24 rods if the price is right, I will be installing ARP rod bolts so the 8mm's will do fine. Thanks in advance to any and all that are willing to help.
  11. im looking for some input on my LD28 intake swap, its going on a P79 head. when laying the stock intake gasket on the LD28 intake, the stock injector hole slightly sticks past the intake flange witch would create a vacuum leak, i decided their are a couple options to correct this 1. weld on some extra material to the intake flange 2. move the intake slightly up, this would involve a lot more porting and would give a oval shape to the head and intake 3. get an aluminum dowel and weld it into the head then port it to match still a lot of porting. any input or wisdom? what would you do?
  12. I recently contacted one of the members here with a PM. Unfortunately I have not received a reply, so rather than sit around with my finger shoved deep where the sun no shine... I have decided to open it up to anyone who is interested. My intention is not to start a fight... but if that's the way it goes... I'm ready... My letter was as follows: Hi -----, I have read through the many posts and information/pictures you have shared with great interest. I for one appreciate what you have done. One particular post was around the building of a 3.3 stroker which I gather uses the RB30 crank (modified) and Honda B18 conrods (As you have stated). My question is this... Firstly, as the Honda rods have a big-end diameter of 48mm and the crank journal is 53mm. The difference would require a 5mm reduction to the crank journal. Is this not a concern with regards to the "strength" of the crank when building a "hot" street or race engine? And secondly, what sort of journal reduction would you consider a safe limit when using a standard L28 or even the V07 crank? (I'm not sure if the quality of the steel is the same as the RB30, and whether it can withstand a 5mm reduction). Your thoughts (and wisdom) would be most appreciated. So... anyone want to get this ball rolling??
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