Search the Community

I think I better start firstly with a quick intro. Hello from the Wide Bay area of sunny Queensland in Australia. I’m a long time ‘guest’ lurker to the HybridZ forums mainly for research and ideas particularly when it comes to round top Hitachi SUs. I’ve loved Z cars since I first laid eyes on one in my early teens when I went to a historic race meeting at a local track with a friend’s family (who also have an affiliation with Datsun 1600/510). There was no escaping the ensuing obsession. This was only made worse by the inception of the Fast and Furious franchise coincidently at the same time I acquired my learners driver licence. I am shamed to say I have had at least one car with “cool” under body neons…. On to the car! This particular car is a 1971 chassis number #629 purchased in 2009. The car was a daily driver retaining the L24 and had a 280ZX gearbox and ignition. I believe it was Victorian sold in a blue colour and was repainted to red in the late 80s or early 90s (judging by the Australian fashion sense in the photos). I have maintained continuous registration of the car as well. The car has had various levels of priority around my life choices and events. I think I put less than 1000 miles on it between 2010 and 2017, is this considered Datsun abuse? I am now at a stage where I can tinker with it more and crack on with a long time goal to leave a legacy of my experiences and information on YouTube and lessor so on Instagram. One immediate goal is to try for 200WHP with only optimisations to fuel, ignition and exhaust. There are gaps to the story thus far which I intend to fill in with further posts. I want to keep this post short and sweet. Cheers, Neubs PS. The current specs are: ENGINE (currently making 170WHP) - Overbored and stroked to 2996cc - Approx. 10-10.5:1 compression ratio - L28 F54 block - L28 N42 head, 1.0mm O/S Ferrea Super Flo valves and match ported - ‘V07’ LD28 crank, balanced, knife edge and nitrided surface - L24 connecting rods - Modified Mistubishi pistons - Crow Cam camshaft; - 292° duration 0.495” valve lift intake - 296° duration 0.510” valve lift exhaust - Innovate Motorsports LM-2 datalogger and wide band O2 sensor COOLING - Ebay 75mm alloy radiator - 2 thermo fans - 280ZX thermostat with Tridon temp switch IGNITION - Pertronix Ignitor I module - MSD 6A ignition - L24 distributor with ‘7.5 plate’ and vac advance FUEL DELIVERY - Rebuilt round top 240Z Hitachi SU carbs with ZTherapy rebuild kit - SM needles with higher set fuel float level - Holly Red fuel pump EXHAUST - ZStory stainless steel Race/Sport headers - ZStory stainless steel Z432 style JDM muffler - Recycled mild steel centre pipe and generic hotdog muffler TRANSMISSION - 71C RB20DET gearbox - Exedy ceramic clutch and pressure plate DIFFERENTIAL - Standard rebuilt open centre 3.9:1 R180 - Standard uni joint drive shafts BODY - Restored Japan polyurethane front bar INTERIOR - Stock (and very worn out) - 280ZX modified tacho SUSPENSION - Stock springs - Stock brakes - Stock geometry components - Koni adjustable shock absorbers ROLLING STOCK - Rota RB-R

I want to build a 3.0l for trackday use. L28 crank 81mm light strong rods light pistons I want over 300hp this is my first Datsun but i have many years of engine builds. So now I want some tips of what is the best bang for the buck to build a 300+ hp engine

So I've brought home my Rebello built 3.0 stroker motor and mounted it on the stand. I'm at the stage of selecting and installing sensors. I'm pretty much going with the GM style sensors sold through DIYAutotune but I've got a couple questions you guys may be able to clear up for me. First, I'm using a E31 head that has been modified with big valves, P&P, and injector notches. The E31 never had a cylinder head sensor so I can't just put a compatible one in its place. I probably should have had Rebello drill and tap for one but that's what I get for planning as I go instead of following a well developed plan. Can you guys think of a solution? What have you done? Or have you done without? Second, I'd like to have altitude compensation as I live at 4500' and regularly travel up to 9000' (I live off Mt. Rose Hwy) and down to sea level. I know at least one friend who used a second MAP sensor to sample for barometric pressure. I've also heard of MAP sensors that are monitoring both. What are your experiences? What have you done successfully?

Another pipe dream? Possibly. Another inexperienced V8 280z fan asking already answered questions? Definitely. So let's get started and see what you all have to say, shall we? Disclaimer: the guy behind this computer screen has no mechanical/engineering knowledge/skills/abilities/powers and is merely a mortal with an obsession with the 240/260/280Z cars (they're so, so, sooo sexy) so if you can find it within yourself to not COMPLETELY destroy my child-like dream, it would be much appreciated! As stated above, I have no mechanical experience beyond the very basics: changing sparks plugs, oil, fuel, and air filters, brakes, and putting gas into the gas tank. Several of my close friends and family members are mechanics, however, and others have done various performance modifications to their cars (mostly Mustangs). These people will be beside me every step of the way if this fantasy gets put into motion. The goal would be a reliable LS3 280Z that must be street friendly and would spend little time at an actual track. There's a stroked LS3 from Late Model Engines that has been increased to 416 ci and is putting out 626HP. If anyone knows of it, would it be considered a reliable, street friendly engine? Would it be any different installing this into a Z than a non-stroked LS3? What modifications would be needed for this specific engine (transmission, headers, exhaust, tires, ECU, etc) to handle that power and put it to the ground? What is the recommended tire size for a build like this? What would be the biggest available brake size for the recommended tires? Any other comments on something I'm missing would be appreciated to fill in the gaps. Just off the top of my head, assuming a rust-free 280Z chassis can be found for around $7,000, the Stroker LS3 costing around $16,000, plus the cost for other necessary upgrades and modifications, the cost for something like this, especially since I'm inexperienced and would have to pay for installations and fabrications, would be somewhere in the neighborhood of $30,000 for a complete build. Would you all say my assumption would be correct? Any comments? Yeah this is probably absurd. If you all know of other cheaper, easier, and non forced induced builds that can achieve similar power output, please direct me!. Don't even get me started on dreaming about making it all-wheel drive...

Hey, I'm looking to piece together a stroker. I'm looking for: ld28 crank(most of all) 240sx pistons p90 head Thanks Christopher

I purchased a redtop sr20det from a guy parting out his 240sx. I have the engine, transmission, and wiring harness. I would like to trade for an l28 stroker or an l28et, transmission, and wiring harness. I'm located in Oklahoma City. Feel free to call or text Christopher @ 4o5-4one2-1676.

I have a few LD28 motors I am parting out. I'm looking for full coilover set for my '73, new intercooler, sti r180 rear end, t3 ball bearing no shaft play. Cylinder head, valve cover and exhaust manifold. -50$ ea Bare block -80$ ea (ill throw in the pistons, rods, and bearings) Injector Pumps, hardlines, and injectors -150$/set (1 left) V07 crankshaft -900$ obo (1 left) Intake manifold -200$ (largest runner diameter of all L series manifolds) Rancho Cucamonga, CA Call or text 909-708-7671

Hey Z fans, Anybody giving up on the L and trading up to an RB or a V8? I am looking to buy a 3.0 or 3.1 stroker engine. Yes I know that the performance isn't that much better than a built L28, but after driving a 3.1 (the sale fell through), I don't want to settle for less. At any rate, I want to get a streetable engine that can be run on 91 octane without too rough an idle. The local stroker was being offered for just $900, but I won't be that optimistic and could pay a bit more. Still, I can't afford something like the second-hand Rebello that was being offered last week (nor am I looking for 13:1 compression or making real power only between 5000-8000). All I want is a decently built stroker for a daily driver, I hope that somebody out there has one let me know what you've got, and what you would be willing to let it go for!

Good day Hybridz readers, I have been on the watch for a Diesel Crankshaft for about a year and am almost to the point of ordering one from Kameari in Japan. Before I spend the mortgage on a L28D from them; I wanted to see if anyone here in the good ole USA has one. If you have the connecting rods as well that would be perfect. I am serious and ready to purchase now. Thank you for your time and consideration. Peter Thomas http://my260z.net

hey there, looking for an ld28 crank in good shape, unfinished but straight if possible. hoping to pay under $300 as I have to ship it up to Canada. may be interested in L24 rods if the price is right, I will be installing ARP rod bolts so the 8mm's will do fine. Thanks in advance to any and all that are willing to help.

I am looking for LD cranks. I am located in San Diego. Please send me the price and a couple of photos. Also, hopefully I can have my engine shop check it out and ask for a return if the crank is damaged (cracked, warped, and etc.) There are too many bad parts out there nowadays. Erik