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Showing results for tags 'stroker'.
Found 18 results
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I think I better start firstly with a quick intro. Hello from the Wide Bay area of sunny Queensland in Australia. I’m a long time ‘guest’ lurker to the HybridZ forums mainly for research and ideas particularly when it comes to round top Hitachi SUs. I’ve loved Z cars since I first laid eyes on one in my early teens when I went to a historic race meeting at a local track with a friend’s family (who also have an affiliation with Datsun 1600/510). There was no escaping the ensuing obsession. This was only made worse by the inception of the Fast and Furious franchise coincidently at the same time I acquired my learners driver licence. I am shamed to say I have had at least one car with “cool” under body neons…. On to the car! This particular car is a 1971 chassis number #629 purchased in 2009. The car was a daily driver retaining the L24 and had a 280ZX gearbox and ignition. I believe it was Victorian sold in a blue colour and was repainted to red in the late 80s or early 90s (judging by the Australian fashion sense in the photos). I have maintained continuous registration of the car as well. The car has had various levels of priority around my life choices and events. I think I put less than 1000 miles on it between 2010 and 2017, is this considered Datsun abuse? I am now at a stage where I can tinker with it more and crack on with a long time goal to leave a legacy of my experiences and information on YouTube and lessor so on Instagram. One immediate goal is to try for 200WHP with only optimisations to fuel, ignition and exhaust. There are gaps to the story thus far which I intend to fill in with further posts. I want to keep this post short and sweet. Cheers, Neubs PS. The current specs are: ENGINE (currently making 170WHP) - Overbored and stroked to 2996cc - Approx. 10-10.5:1 compression ratio - L28 F54 block - L28 N42 head, 1.0mm O/S Ferrea Super Flo valves and match ported - ‘V07’ LD28 crank, balanced, knife edge and nitrided surface - L24 connecting rods - Modified Mistubishi pistons - Crow Cam camshaft; - 292° duration 0.495” valve lift intake - 296° duration 0.510” valve lift exhaust - Innovate Motorsports LM-2 datalogger and wide band O2 sensor COOLING - Ebay 75mm alloy radiator - 2 thermo fans - 280ZX thermostat with Tridon temp switch IGNITION - Pertronix Ignitor I module - MSD 6A ignition - L24 distributor with ‘7.5 plate’ and vac advance FUEL DELIVERY - Rebuilt round top 240Z Hitachi SU carbs with ZTherapy rebuild kit - SM needles with higher set fuel float level - Holly Red fuel pump EXHAUST - ZStory stainless steel Race/Sport headers - ZStory stainless steel Z432 style JDM muffler - Recycled mild steel centre pipe and generic hotdog muffler TRANSMISSION - 71C RB20DET gearbox - Exedy ceramic clutch and pressure plate DIFFERENTIAL - Standard rebuilt open centre 3.9:1 R180 - Standard uni joint drive shafts BODY - Restored Japan polyurethane front bar INTERIOR - Stock (and very worn out) - 280ZX modified tacho SUSPENSION - Stock springs - Stock brakes - Stock geometry components - Koni adjustable shock absorbers ROLLING STOCK - Rota RB-R
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I want to build a 3.0l for trackday use. L28 crank 81mm light strong rods light pistons I want over 300hp this is my first Datsun but i have many years of engine builds. So now I want some tips of what is the best bang for the buck to build a 300+ hp engine
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So I've brought home my Rebello built 3.0 stroker motor and mounted it on the stand. I'm at the stage of selecting and installing sensors. I'm pretty much going with the GM style sensors sold through DIYAutotune but I've got a couple questions you guys may be able to clear up for me. First, I'm using a E31 head that has been modified with big valves, P&P, and injector notches. The E31 never had a cylinder head sensor so I can't just put a compatible one in its place. I probably should have had Rebello drill and tap for one but that's what I get for planning as I go instead of following a well developed plan. Can you guys think of a solution? What have you done? Or have you done without? Second, I'd like to have altitude compensation as I live at 4500' and regularly travel up to 9000' (I live off Mt. Rose Hwy) and down to sea level. I know at least one friend who used a second MAP sensor to sample for barometric pressure. I've also heard of MAP sensors that are monitoring both. What are your experiences? What have you done successfully?
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Another pipe dream? Possibly. Another inexperienced V8 280z fan asking already answered questions? Definitely. So let's get started and see what you all have to say, shall we? Disclaimer: the guy behind this computer screen has no mechanical/engineering knowledge/skills/abilities/powers and is merely a mortal with an obsession with the 240/260/280Z cars (they're so, so, sooo sexy) so if you can find it within yourself to not COMPLETELY destroy my child-like dream, it would be much appreciated! As stated above, I have no mechanical experience beyond the very basics: changing sparks plugs, oil, fuel, and air filters, brakes, and putting gas into the gas tank. Several of my close friends and family members are mechanics, however, and others have done various performance modifications to their cars (mostly Mustangs). These people will be beside me every step of the way if this fantasy gets put into motion. The goal would be a reliable LS3 280Z that must be street friendly and would spend little time at an actual track. There's a stroked LS3 from Late Model Engines that has been increased to 416 ci and is putting out 626HP. If anyone knows of it, would it be considered a reliable, street friendly engine? Would it be any different installing this into a Z than a non-stroked LS3? What modifications would be needed for this specific engine (transmission, headers, exhaust, tires, ECU, etc) to handle that power and put it to the ground? What is the recommended tire size for a build like this? What would be the biggest available brake size for the recommended tires? Any other comments on something I'm missing would be appreciated to fill in the gaps. Just off the top of my head, assuming a rust-free 280Z chassis can be found for around $7,000, the Stroker LS3 costing around $16,000, plus the cost for other necessary upgrades and modifications, the cost for something like this, especially since I'm inexperienced and would have to pay for installations and fabrications, would be somewhere in the neighborhood of $30,000 for a complete build. Would you all say my assumption would be correct? Any comments? Yeah this is probably absurd. If you all know of other cheaper, easier, and non forced induced builds that can achieve similar power output, please direct me!. Don't even get me started on dreaming about making it all-wheel drive...
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Up for sale is my 1978 280z with approximately 135,000 miles: $8500.00 (also, posted on Ebay) I bought the car from the original owner over 10 years ago and have been diligently restoring it ever since…brings me back to my high school days but life has gotten in the way and mandates the sale. What has been done: Rebuilt Stroker Turbo engine, upgraded Z32 5-speed Transmission and Z31 LSD differential and reconditioned/ upgraded suspension. The LSD clutches were upgraded w/ thicker clutch pates for about an 80LB break away (comes with original clutch plates if you chose to return to stock). Four wheel disk brakes w/ functional emergency brakes and hydraulic power steering. What’s remaining: Body work (nothing major – some rust on driver’s door and right lower front fender and rear deck lid – replacement deck lid is available from MSA for about $250), paint, carpet kit replacement and interior clean-up. Floor boards are good. The car runs great and is a blast to drive with plenty of power and a wonderful exhaust note. It has a fairly new radiator, starter, alternator, brake and clutch master cylinders, clutch slave cylinder and NGK plugs. Here are some of the key upgrades: Engine: L28E (N42/N42) bored to 3.1L (Stroker w/ LD crank) Turbonetics t3/t04E w/JWT Z31 ECU & Cobra MAF Jim Wolf 420 Tuned ECU w/ Ford MAF and MB Injectors (Pallnet fuel rail) N42 intake w/240SX 60mm throttle body and stock turbo exhaust manifolds 3-Inch Exhaust w/ Magnaflow Muffler Drivetrain: Z32 5 speed Trans, z31 r200 LSD w/CV's (Modern Motor Works billet adapters), Fidanza Flywheel 4 Wheel Disc Brakes (Toyota 4 piston mono-block calipers on the front w/ cross drilled rotos all around) Power Steering (operates flawlessly) Suspension: Motor Sport Sway bars Urethane Bushings all around Eibach Springs w/ Tokico illumine 5 way Adjustable Shocks Wheels/Tires: 15x7 Rota RB w/ 225/50 Kumho tires (need new tires) Interior: Mazda Miata Seats (fully adjustable on OEM tracks – look great) Car is located in Round Lake beach, IL Ken (847) 345-1215
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From the album: 280Z Project - in progress
1975 280Z with 3.1L stroker in Infiniti Beryllium -
From the album: 280Z Project - in progress
1975 280Z with 3.1L stroker in Infiniti Beryllium -
From the album: 280Z Project - in progress
1975 280Z with stroker at Aliso Viejo Cars and Coffee -
From the album: 280Z Project - in progress
1975 280Z with stroker next to 1970 Mustang Grande with 351 Cleveland -
From the album: 280Z Project - in progress
1975 280Z with stroker at Aliso Viejo Cars and Coffee -
Hey, I'm looking to piece together a stroker. I'm looking for: ld28 crank(most of all) 240sx pistons p90 head Thanks Christopher
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I purchased a redtop sr20det from a guy parting out his 240sx. I have the engine, transmission, and wiring harness. I would like to trade for an l28 stroker or an l28et, transmission, and wiring harness. I'm located in Oklahoma City. Feel free to call or text Christopher @ 4o5-4one2-1676.
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I have a few LD28 motors I am parting out. I'm looking for full coilover set for my '73, new intercooler, sti r180 rear end, t3 ball bearing no shaft play. Cylinder head, valve cover and exhaust manifold. -50$ ea Bare block -80$ ea (ill throw in the pistons, rods, and bearings) Injector Pumps, hardlines, and injectors -150$/set (1 left) V07 crankshaft -900$ obo (1 left) Intake manifold -200$ (largest runner diameter of all L series manifolds) Rancho Cucamonga, CA Call or text 909-708-7671
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Hey Z fans, Anybody giving up on the L and trading up to an RB or a V8? I am looking to buy a 3.0 or 3.1 stroker engine. Yes I know that the performance isn't that much better than a built L28, but after driving a 3.1 (the sale fell through), I don't want to settle for less. At any rate, I want to get a streetable engine that can be run on 91 octane without too rough an idle. The local stroker was being offered for just $900, but I won't be that optimistic and could pay a bit more. Still, I can't afford something like the second-hand Rebello that was being offered last week (nor am I looking for 13:1 compression or making real power only between 5000-8000). All I want is a decently built stroker for a daily driver, I hope that somebody out there has one let me know what you've got, and what you would be willing to let it go for!
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OK, I have rounded up a bunch of parts that I have accumulated over time, and am putting them up for sale to finance a turbo build. All parts are as-is, shipping is not included in the prices. Some of the larger items may take me a couple of days to get shipping quotes as I will need to round up packing materials. Here is what I have; VO7 crank - $700 - SOLD It has been cleaned, checked, and polished by a machine shop. It is standard size. Comes with the oil pump drive gear and keys. L24 rods - $125 - $100 These are the 135mm rods used with the VO7 crank for building a stroker motor. They have the 8mm bolts. These have also been cleaned and checked by the machine shop and the pistons removed. 280ZX Turbo ECU - $75 - $50 82 or 83 unit, I used it to run a turbo engine on a stand to be sure it worked, no other details known about it. 280ZX Turbo AFM - $75 - $50 Same as the ECU above, has been painted by previous owner, no tags, labels, etc, but it does work. 280ZX Turbo AFM to turbo boot - $25 Same as the ECU above, no holes or tears. 280ZX Turbo coil with ignitor, and spare ignitor - $25 - SOLD 280Z ECU - $50 - $25 Unknown year or history, believe it is for a '77 with manual trans. 280Z engine wire harness - $20 Same as the above ECU, has been modified to run a turbo engine (?). May be good for connectors. Dellorto triple carbs, DHLA40 - $600 - $400 Comes with 3 rebuild kits, unknown history, still in the box they came in from Italy. I can open them up to check jet sizes, etc if needed. No manifold or linkage, carbs only. 260Z intake and balance tube - $75 - $50 E88 stamped, with balance tube and cross-water line, some bolts, etc missing. Arizona Z intake - $75 Looks to be unused, has been modified (and not finished) to clear headers on the underside. Will need to be welded closed to be used. Holley 390 carb with manifold adapter - $150 - $125 Ran this on the car for several years, manifold adapter bolts to 240/260 factory carb manifold, uses cable throttle (not included). First pic is installed on the car. Rear window louvers - $50 - SOLD Aluminum, mounts to glass under the weatherstrip. Needs paint and one lower latch. I am not looking for any trades on these items. Shipping will be from the DFW area. I can provide additional photos, and will respond to queries as quickly as I can. Responses on the weekends may be a bit slower as don't check email as often. Thanks for looking!
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Good day Hybridz readers, I have been on the watch for a Diesel Crankshaft for about a year and am almost to the point of ordering one from Kameari in Japan. Before I spend the mortgage on a L28D from them; I wanted to see if anyone here in the good ole USA has one. If you have the connecting rods as well that would be perfect. I am serious and ready to purchase now. Thank you for your time and consideration. Peter Thomas http://my260z.net
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hey there, looking for an ld28 crank in good shape, unfinished but straight if possible. hoping to pay under $300 as I have to ship it up to Canada. may be interested in L24 rods if the price is right, I will be installing ARP rod bolts so the 8mm's will do fine. Thanks in advance to any and all that are willing to help.
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I am looking for LD cranks. I am located in San Diego. Please send me the price and a couple of photos. Also, hopefully I can have my engine shop check it out and ask for a return if the crank is damaged (cracked, warped, and etc.) There are too many bad parts out there nowadays. Erik
