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About carbuilder723

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  1. Holidays are over, some progress has been made. I got the car torn back down to the shell and started working on the rotisserie. I used two Jeg's engine stands which were on sale and about $100 in steel to put this together. All in all, I think it came out pretty good. I can spin it around with one arm. I got the garage all cleaned up, and ready to tackle the floor pan and frame rail replacement. Clean up one mess, before making another one. Also, I finally got my final oil cooler. A CSF 8066, "The Boss" oil cooler. It should be plenty of cooling for any use this car will see.
  2. Interested. Curious to see what the final pricing comes out to. I definitely need a windshield at some point. Hatch and doors I need to double check condition of what I have.
  3. ECU was about $250 for an MSS54HP Software and feature modifications and MAP sensor kit by Kassel Performance was in total about $900 Engine wiring harness was about $150. There are probably a few other small things, but that should get you close. @grannyknot... I should've asked before, but what did you do for radiator hoses?
  4. I'm running a stock, but modified BMW ECU. It's had a lot of the factory BMW features disabled and a custom map uploaded to it to allow it to run as a standalone.
  5. We have touch down. This is the first time the car has been on the ground in about 18 months... I think. It's sitting on all of it's new suspension with the powertrain installed also. Next is going to be building a rotisserie and stripping the car back down to the shell so I can work on the floor pans and a few other body work items.
  6. The AN fittings will have flexible hose between the fittings. I have to try to make sure that there is enough hose to allow the engine to move adequately. I can't argue the cost item though. -20AN fittings are not cheap, but it's a one time expense and it will go better with the whole build in terms of craftsmanship than spliced together rubber hoses would.
  7. 2 Months later ..... I've made some good progress, great progress really. I've been able to prototype 3 different revisions of actual engine mounts, and settle on a final version and fabricate them. I 've gotten the steering linkage sorted out, I put the pedal in for the first time with their lines connected to the bulkhead, and I got the engine wiring installed (very temporarily) and actually started it up for the first time in the car, with the whole drivetrain connected. So, engine mounts first. 3D printer was working overtime again going a few different versions. I ended up straying away from the idea of welding to the frame of the car in favor of going with a solution more like what Nissan had originally done. I welded some support stand offs from my custom subframe to come up to meet the engine side supports and rubber isolators. I just couldn't bring myself to weld to the front frame rails and lose the ability to drop the engine out the bottom of the car. Next, since most of this custom subframe and engine mount work was to manage to get my BMW steering rack into the best position, I had to figure out how to actually connect the Datsun column to that BMW rack. It turns out that the BMW rag joint has a nearly identical bolt pattern as the original Datsun one, so that let me just take apart the BMW one and use half of it to adapt the Datsun column down to a 3/4" DD shaft. Then I found a collapsible DD shaft online (3/4" on one side, 1" on the other) that I used to connect from the steering column, to a Flaming River universal joint that has a 1" DD on one side and the BMW spline pattern on the other. I also am using a poly version of the original Datsun steering column coupler. Result?? The steering feels absolutely perfect... 0 slop from the wheel all the way down through to the tires. https://youtu.be/18_B0R0pzEc Once all of the engine mounts were fabricated, and the engine was finally sitting in its final position, I decided it was time to get it running... I dug out my box of wiring from the engine stand and started hooking it up. I put the dash in since it had all of my gauges and switches now and hooked those up too. This was also a good opportunity to try out the new in tank fuel pump set up. (much improved in terms of the noise vs the externally mounted Boash 044) I filled up the coolant, topped off the oil put in a few gallons of 93 and gave it a try. First go, it didn't quite want to take, but I think there was just a bunch of air in the fuel rail. After a few more cranks, it came to life. Good stuff! https://youtu.be/hwrzxf-Cf7w https://youtu.be/JXuYEDszmUA https://youtu.be/KQYHxMbQgWU A few things coming up next... I made the decision to go with AN fittings for the radiator hoses, for a few reasons. 1) I'm kinda opposed to having to splice together a bunch of rubber hoses to get the shape I need. 2) Flexible radiator hoses aren't the aesthetic i'm going for. 3) despite is being a tough pill to swallow now $$ wise, it will make future trouble shooting or even modifications easier to adapt to a new set up if needed. I'm probably going to leave the engine in for a bit longer, give it some run time since it hasn't seen much since last August (2019) and try to get a few things sorted out like coolant overflow tank location, oil cooler location, and maybe a few more plumbing things. Then it's back down to a bare shell to make a rotisserie and get those floors and frame rails replaced.
  8. Sub-frame is done... at least it's all tacked together. And wow, not to pat myself on the back or anything, but I am thrilled with the way it came out. It couldn't be packaged any better in my opinion given the placement I want for the engine. I checked the bump steer again, and now instead of my laser drawing a horizontal line when going through the wheel travel, it makes a much more suitable vertical line with an acceptable amount of variation. There are some small adjustments I could do down the road to make it even better on the pitman arm / tie rod side of things, but this is going to be it for now. We'll see how it drives and go from there. Onward to engine mounts... after some thought I think I'm going to try to a bit of a hybrid approach from what I was originally thinking. I'll get some more pics up, but basically, I'm thinking i'll incorporate the passenger side engine mount with this sub-frame and the driver side engine mount will be on the front frame rail. I think it's going to work better given the steering column placement and the environment. More to come
  9. Back again. Couple more updates. I got the driveshaft adapter back from my machine shop. and it fits like a glove between the BMW CV joint and the r200 input flange. I guess my measurements were pretty good and their machine work was top notch. I also went ahead and got the tires mounted onto my wheels and tossed them on for a brief test fit. Granted there's no sub-frame in the car to hold the wheel in place very much, but just hanging there, it's looking pretty good to get away with out any fender flares. In front sub-frame news, I think I have all the pieces I need to finally get this thing completed. I have the tube bent, the steering rack mounts plasma cut and the end brackets all laser cut. I used a new company for the laser cut parts this go around due to availability of my original source. OshCut is the name of the company I used this time and I was very happy with their whole process and at the end of the day their pricing was reasonable. It pays to have them cut multiples of what you need the first time, since it turned out that 2 sets of parts only cost about $15 more than a single set and the first set cost $80. Anyway, I just need a solid day to trim the tube, finish welding up the end brackets and the steering rack mounts and I should have a functional front subframe. Then to readdress the engine mounts. I'm not sure if i'll use the frame mounted ones I already designed or if there is a way to potentially integrate them into my new subframe. 1 step at a time...
  10. I am definitely keeping an eye on the clearance between the bolt head and the rubber boot. It is very close right now, but this is still all mockup. When I actually get the metal fabricated, I'm aiming to have at least enough space to fit my finger in between them (that is the minimum clearance I am working toward through out the whole system). If they do end up touching during suspension movement, I designed the joint using a custom carriage bolt that designed and had machined. Those bolts have a nice smooth, rounded head hence no sharp edges for the boot to catch. Hopefully that keeps the chaffing to a minimum.
  11. We're getting closer. I've gone through a few 3D printed revisions of some new subframe pieces and rev 4 is going to work pretty well I think (I hope). The rack now lives behind the front sump on the bottom of the oil pan. This has made the geometry situation considerably better, although being very tight with clearance to pretty much everything. I've shrunk the bracket as much as I can, while keeping the pivot of the LCA rod end in the same place as it would have been originally. I've just given up the ability to use the washers to shim it any further forward. I included a picture of the CAD that I am working with (the big cylinder is just a basic representation of the steering rack)
  12. Update time: Drive shaft adapter was sent out to the machine shop, of course after one more revision and 3D printed mockup with the actual differential and CV joint. Fuel Cell Enclosure in the rear floor pan is complete. The steel is all 16 gauge which is, let's say significant... I probably could've easily gotten away with 18 or 20 gauge and cut the weight down substantially, but I figured having a little extra weight on the rear axle isn't the worst thing and it makes for an extremely stout enclosure. Fuel cell top plate was designed, and laser cut with the custom holes layout. I had an extra hole added for a second pump should I ever want/ need one, along with a 4 wire bulkhead to let the power in to the pump(s).(ignore the backwards filler neck.. i need to spin the whole top plate 180deg). Designed and fabricated a rear shifter bushing mount, with some captive nuts of course so you can just rotate it up into place and screw it down. Along with that I trimmed the shifter opening to give the shifter a bit more clearance. I still kept all of the holes around the opening, but gave it a bit more breathing room. Test fit the new dash along with the adjustable pedals, steering column, center console, seat etc. This was one of those things that while completely unnecessary, I had time and i think it was worth the effort to remind myself that there is indeed a car in there somewhere. I also wanted to confirm that I would still be able to reach the switches at the base of the center stack that I added. Confirmed! Also helpful was I put the fenders and hood back on to check for hood clearance to the engine... good new... lot's of room under there for a strut brace. Lastly, I designed some new engine mounts that will get welded directly to the frame rails (I think). This is all in an effort to make room for the power steering rack, which while it is currently mocked up with a few spot welds, it has horrifying bump steer in its current position. So, I am churning through a few ideas in my head to try to pull the rack back towards where the OE Datsun one would've been. More to come on that. (Tubular front cross member anyone???) But in the mean time, I did cut off the original steering rack and engine mounts from the front cross member in addition to sectioning out a portion in the middle to give more clearance below the front of the oil pan. Right now the engine is sitting nearly perfectly (on stands) but it's low, and pushed back to the fire wall as much as I want it. Now I just need to package the mounts, steering rack, and steering column around it. So next up is still kinda the same thing ... getting the new engine mounts developed more and trying to do everything I can to get the bump steer situation better.
  13. Yup. I'll be using the electronic pedal. Since I'm not going full stand alone, there wasn't a great way to get the manual linkage to work. On the engine stand the electronic pedal worked great, and there is a pretty simple mounting bracket that the pedal comes with. I've got another pretty big update coming soon. I'm going a bit off the reservation with some new engine mounts, modified front cross-member and steering rack placement. It's been a bear to get the BMW rack fit in to this car. The only other time I've seen a BMW rack installed was in a right hand drive set up, with out AC. But since I want it all, I have the AC compressor, power steering pump and original engine mounts all fighting for the same space. More to come....
  14. video of the pedals... just double click on it to fix the display issue. When I uploaded it, it appears massive. VID_20200510_191936~3.mp4
  15. For those of you still following along, The past few weeks have been pretty productive. I took step one to see if I needed to go the custom camber plate route, and cut out the strut tops to all the BC's a bit more freedom. Turns out, it looks like these plates are capable of well north of 3 deg of negative camber, especially when paired with the adjustable lower control arms from T3. So, for now, i'm going to leave the front and rear strut towers cut like this and just use the BC camber plates, and not cut more than I need to. Next, I played around with getting the fuel cell mocked up. I had to cut out the whole spare tire tub and decided to fab up a new one that would allow the cell to sit lower, while still not protruding below the rear valence. I made some CAD files of the new enclosure and sent them out to get cut, so we'll see when those are done given the lock down situation still being pretty restrictive. Basically the way it's going to work is the black top surface of the plastic tank will sit flush with the rest of the floor, and there will be an aluminum cover that covers up everything except for the center top plate with all the fittings and such. Hose routing still needs to be finalized, but I have a few thoughts about that. The project I kept working on was the Tilton Pedal box. I finally got everything cut out of steel and welded up to the original pedal box frame and I'm pretty happy with the results. Just needs cleaned up, and painted and boom... adjustable pedals with individual master cylinders.
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