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Everything posted by carbuilder723

  1. potentially very interested in 15x8 +0 if that ever becomes an option
  2. Floor pans are in! Mostly ... They went in pretty well on all but the front edge at the firewall. I had some rust at that seam, so I had to cut the bottom part of that sheet metal out, which I'll have to get back to later. Also the fit between the curve at the rocker and the existing metal was a bit off, but very manageable to massage into place. I butt welded the seam with the transmission tunnel and spot welded everything else (rocker and rear seam), After all of that, I have either one of two paths. I found a little bit of damage to the passenger side forward frame rail, whe
  3. Holidays are over, some progress has been made. I got the car torn back down to the shell and started working on the rotisserie. I used two Jeg's engine stands which were on sale and about $100 in steel to put this together. All in all, I think it came out pretty good. I can spin it around with one arm. I got the garage all cleaned up, and ready to tackle the floor pan and frame rail replacement. Clean up one mess, before making another one. Also, I finally got my final oil cooler. A CSF 8066, "The Boss" oil coole
  4. Interested. Curious to see what the final pricing comes out to. I definitely need a windshield at some point. Hatch and doors I need to double check condition of what I have.
  5. ECU was about $250 for an MSS54HP Software and feature modifications and MAP sensor kit by Kassel Performance was in total about $900 Engine wiring harness was about $150. There are probably a few other small things, but that should get you close. @grannyknot... I should've asked before, but what did you do for radiator hoses?
  6. I'm running a stock, but modified BMW ECU. It's had a lot of the factory BMW features disabled and a custom map uploaded to it to allow it to run as a standalone.
  7. We have touch down. This is the first time the car has been on the ground in about 18 months... I think. It's sitting on all of it's new suspension with the powertrain installed also. Next is going to be building a rotisserie and stripping the car back down to the shell so I can work on the floor pans and a few other body work items.
  8. The AN fittings will have flexible hose between the fittings. I have to try to make sure that there is enough hose to allow the engine to move adequately. I can't argue the cost item though. -20AN fittings are not cheap, but it's a one time expense and it will go better with the whole build in terms of craftsmanship than spliced together rubber hoses would.
  9. 2 Months later ..... I've made some good progress, great progress really. I've been able to prototype 3 different revisions of actual engine mounts, and settle on a final version and fabricate them. I 've gotten the steering linkage sorted out, I put the pedal in for the first time with their lines connected to the bulkhead, and I got the engine wiring installed (very temporarily) and actually started it up for the first time in the car, with the whole drivetrain connected. So, engine mounts first. 3D printer was working overtime again going a few different versions. I ended
  10. Sub-frame is done... at least it's all tacked together. And wow, not to pat myself on the back or anything, but I am thrilled with the way it came out. It couldn't be packaged any better in my opinion given the placement I want for the engine. I checked the bump steer again, and now instead of my laser drawing a horizontal line when going through the wheel travel, it makes a much more suitable vertical line with an acceptable amount of variation. There are some small adjustments I could do down the road to make it even better on the pitman arm / tie rod side of things, but this is going to be
  11. Back again. Couple more updates. I got the driveshaft adapter back from my machine shop. and it fits like a glove between the BMW CV joint and the r200 input flange. I guess my measurements were pretty good and their machine work was top notch. I also went ahead and got the tires mounted onto my wheels and tossed them on for a brief test fit. Granted there's no sub-frame in the car to hold the wheel in place very much, but just hanging there, it's looking pretty good to get away with out any fender flares. In front sub-frame news, I think I have all the
  12. I am definitely keeping an eye on the clearance between the bolt head and the rubber boot. It is very close right now, but this is still all mockup. When I actually get the metal fabricated, I'm aiming to have at least enough space to fit my finger in between them (that is the minimum clearance I am working toward through out the whole system). If they do end up touching during suspension movement, I designed the joint using a custom carriage bolt that designed and had machined. Those bolts have a nice smooth, rounded head hence no sharp edges for the boot to catch. Hopefully that keeps the ch
  13. We're getting closer. I've gone through a few 3D printed revisions of some new subframe pieces and rev 4 is going to work pretty well I think (I hope). The rack now lives behind the front sump on the bottom of the oil pan. This has made the geometry situation considerably better, although being very tight with clearance to pretty much everything. I've shrunk the bracket as much as I can, while keeping the pivot of the LCA rod end in the same place as it would have been originally. I've just given up the ability to use the washers to shim it any further forward. I included a picture of th
  14. Update time: Drive shaft adapter was sent out to the machine shop, of course after one more revision and 3D printed mockup with the actual differential and CV joint. Fuel Cell Enclosure in the rear floor pan is complete. The steel is all 16 gauge which is, let's say significant... I probably could've easily gotten away with 18 or 20 gauge and cut the weight down substantially, but I figured having a little extra weight on the rear axle isn't the worst thing and it makes for an extremely stout enclosure. Fuel cell top plate was designed, and
  15. Yup. I'll be using the electronic pedal. Since I'm not going full stand alone, there wasn't a great way to get the manual linkage to work. On the engine stand the electronic pedal worked great, and there is a pretty simple mounting bracket that the pedal comes with. I've got another pretty big update coming soon. I'm going a bit off the reservation with some new engine mounts, modified front cross-member and steering rack placement. It's been a bear to get the BMW rack fit in to this car. The only other time I've seen a BMW rack installed was in a right hand drive set up, with out
  16. video of the pedals... just double click on it to fix the display issue. When I uploaded it, it appears massive. VID_20200510_191936~3.mp4
  17. For those of you still following along, The past few weeks have been pretty productive. I took step one to see if I needed to go the custom camber plate route, and cut out the strut tops to all the BC's a bit more freedom. Turns out, it looks like these plates are capable of well north of 3 deg of negative camber, especially when paired with the adjustable lower control arms from T3. So, for now, i'm going to leave the front and rear strut towers cut like this and just use the BC camber plates, and not cut more than I need to. Next, I played around with getting the fuel cell
  18. Hey Everyone!...Good progress being made. I finally took all of the wheel assemblies, control arms, brakes, etc and got them all installed onto the car which definitely brought some life to the project for the first time in a long time. It's got wheels!! (no tires yet, but let's ignore that) I also took the Skillard radio delete plate, drilled a few holes for my switch pack, push start button and extra AFR and Voltage Gauge. I also finally finished removing the original seat mounts and put the Recaros into position. Granted, for now they are just sitting on the floor, b
  19. QUick Update: Got the rear brakes in the mail and mostly installed. Just need to grease up the stubaxles and install those now that the caliper brackets are installed. Piece by Piece...
  20. well, back at it. Couple of updates today... lots of pictures too. I got the BC coilovers welded up, and painted along with the front hubs and rear stub axles. I also got the bearings and wheel studs put in and am just waiting on the rear brakes before I put the rear assemblies completely back together. I also got the gauges all mounted up in the new dash, aside from the AFR gauge and voltage. Those 2 will go down lower in the center stack below the climate controls. Alright so... in order... Coilover sleeves welded to the original knuckles.
  21. Yup, I will definitely be moving the rack down from where the original would be since I need clearance to the front sump of the oil pan. You're right on with the mounts, they should be pretty straight forward. Once I have a mocked up location I'll have some brackets laser cut and weld them to the sub frame. It is just a delicate balance with placement. I want to make sure I'm not going to induce any weird steering characteristics by moving the rack.
  22. Leaning toward going with the BMW rack, primarily for cost reasons since I already have one on the shelf. Also I'm not a huge fan of most electric power steering racks. I much prefer hydraulic and BMW is one of the best in my opinion.
  23. Been a while since I posted anything, but here's few small updates. I refurbished the turn signal stalk, and cleaned up the combo switches and put together the NRG quick release hub with my wheel. I still need to find a horn button that I like to finish it off. I also cut down the strut housing in prep for the coilover installation and had everything sand blasted. Currently those are out being welded. I figured I'd leave to the hands of a professional. I still need to paint them, but the weather here in Michigan has been prohibitive to spray painting.
  24. I hadn't realized it's been so long since my last post... a couple things have happened... I got the rear end completely sorted out and mounted just how I wanted it with the RT suspending the diff from the top and the snubber sandwiching it from the bottom. I (just for fun) mocked up the driveshaft and am working on an adapter to go from the BMW CV joint to the R200 input flange. Anyone interested in machining this guy for me? I got the transmission cross member welded up and in position
  25. After a taking a break for a while, I've been working on getting the transmission mount sorted out. I took some measurements, drew up some CAD and fired up the 3D printer. I got it fitted in and it really looks like it's going to work out quite nicely. The laser pointer is near dead on, but I still need to put the angle finder on it one more time to verify that all of the misalignment is < 1deg. The plan is to send out the drawings before the end of the week to be laser cut. Hopefully I can get it welded up by mid next week.
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