RUZN
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Posts posted by RUZN
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ok what you describe could be one of a couple things with Racks.. Yes PS can harm systems but Not that quickly on a top up cause you'd be only adding like 4% to the system of PS and it would still have 96% ATF.. it would most likely blend.
Now to get to your issues. What you describe is not a fault of the PS pump. That only controls flow to the Rack Spindle and housing IE the Directional Control Valve. What this dose is. It has three channels. A Left Assist chamber/ Neutral assist Chamber/ and a right assist chamber. Each of these valleys are seperated by Teflon seals within the housing. When you want left Assist as you turn the wheel you turn the housing that opens or closes small holes in the VALLEYS so you get left/right/or no assist.
What somtimes happens is debri or seals parts get stuck on the holes which can cause Full Assist one way or the other or no assist all the time. This can make it so the Pump thinks its in Full left turn. Now your arms cannot push 3000PSI so until that pressure differential is released or the particulate moves youll be stuck turning or have no assist . Now thats one issue. Yes you could have the steering Gears binding. Although Im not sure if theres adjustemts on the nissans Racks. Might be I'll have to look on mine. But over time obviously the teeth get groved fromuse and yes it can Bind there. Also yes you could need a seal kit but Im sure thats only outter Piston seals not the gear Seal itself. you'll have to see if you can dismantle or Ill look it up on AllData or mitchell and get back to ya hehe
2 Weeks of Automotive school left YAY!!!! yeah just finished Power steering pumps and Gears and Rack so we duplicated all you talk about LOL.
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yeah PCV valve can get gummed up by deposits and when engine is cooling that rubberized oily crap starts to harden and sticks the valve..
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Un-Metered Air.. Somewhere you have a Vacuum hose disconnected and its getting some nice fresh air into Manifold. Check all your connections. you should be able to hear a Hissssssssss probably if it is a Vacuum line or EGR tube open/cracked/rusted/unplugged.. ect ect specially if its a solid 1500rpm..
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some front end changes have occured since the pic but this is how I bought her =-) a 5 year long wait! Some Mod's I had finished before Automotive school started.. as well....
And yes I did clean up wiring eventually LOL... just a you know Im so excited I have to take pictures.. pic LOL
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So I was "Driving" "Normally" beside my Buddies Chevelle. He wanted to see how much Go Go he had. So we were "Mildly driving" down the highway when I passed him at A undesclosed speed cause my guage only goes to 130mph he said there was a 1Foot long Flame out my exhaust for about 5 seconds LOL!!!
.....Now I just think that is Sweet A*# so I thought I would share it with you all.. Just wish he had VIDEO!!
Cause I'm sure people pay money to buy stuff like that LOL
Gawd I love my Z
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I changed to MAF/240sx TB/300zxt Turbo/300zxt Turbo ECU/ Maxima 1991 TPS et ect ect.. Found out the New o2 sensor I bought was the craps so its was putting out .01V which is totally low so the ECU just added fuel thinking it was needing fuel. I put my stock o2 Back in and everything is grand..
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eh starters are cheap and you can still buy em new sooooo Buy it for $500 thats great. My turbo was $1100 and Now I put about $600 into it mainly into the Z31 ECU swap and wow its such a fun car. Its my 2nd 280Z and hopefully not my last. I Need at least 7 Right.. 1 foe each day of the week... =-)
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I have a Auto Turbo 1981.5 Currently. On stock I was running 6hg to 7hg Sooo... But I also replaced all the rubber hosing within the 1st week I bought it.
Then I switched ECU's to the 1987 300zxt ECU and changed to 1994 240sx throttle body 1990 Maxima TPS and upgraded to the collant cooled and oil cooled turbo from the 300zxt. But the turbos where the same exactly other than extra cooling. Now I bleed off into the intake using a Tconnector that runs to a Air valve that I slightly open and run that to the intake. So I can acheive 12psi but I run at about 9.5 to 10psi with no intercooler and barely get over 80oC.
And I run her good.
that auto took upwards of 13psi without any issues and yes my shifting to was at 4750 until I switched to the 300zxt ECU which for some reason shifted more in the 5200rpm range on WOT. I would think cause its an auto transmission it uses trans pressure to determine shift points.
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how about this. Re do the ignition get rid of Chrysler Parts as they are Made in Mexico. Nissan with Chrysler.. gawd I'll toss my car in the bonfire if that ever mergers.
I worked for chrysler their product is down right shiiiitz so. Anyway after all ignition stuff is redone simpl by following where wires go to =-) Put in Stock 300zx NA ECU even even better results and slightly newer system.
OH but after check your O2 if you have one =-)
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Yeah , jammed Compressor or turbine unit, something not on even though you think it is. or wastegate totally stuck open. Otherwise as long as you have Exhaust pressure you should get boost.
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Yeah it will be fine man seriously. I mean hose things arent totally sand blated and perfect from factory right. They allow for imperfections. only the gears are cut to certain Specs and it isnt like Micro thread Count its HEAVY COURSE hehe
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Use a 3" Magnaflow Exhaust, with a 3" straight pipe from the downpipe thats what I did.. but I have a Bender at work so took about 2 hours. basically my 3 inch is straight to the rear control arm. It then goes through as normal at 3 ich with sliiiight gradual bend so slight its almost straight =-)
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Well Since im doing Drivlelines and Gear Ratio's in school lol. Yes its pitted but yes you can Sand thaat smoother.. As for Gear Ratio it shouldnt be greatly affected as those pits are prolly like 0.0005" deep so that litterally nothing. Best Bet. Sand it up or leave it be it should be fine. those gears can take huge HP so I doubt they will crack or chip.
Reasons:
Its not dented (causing hardened metal to be pushed up) which eventually stress cracks throughout metal
And with normal wear those would be gone in a few weeks to months
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I could send you my ignition if you want I have a spare car im scrapping here pretty quick
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So if some don't know. 280zxt (Z31 ECU & Turbo)
So first my car ran very well for weeks after my Swap. Suddenly one day I started popping and blowing some good smoke puffs (black grey) out my exhaust at red Lights and at about Half throttle. So I began testing, poking prodding, adjusting timing ect ect.
Today 2 weeks later, due to the fact I'm very involved in Automotive Shooling I had some time to really get in there.
I replaced TPS, Temp sensors, thermostats you name it anything that failed tests or was slightly off.
In the end I decided to get down into the O2. Boy I swear it tested good before.. lol Today it failed miserably 0.01Volts max LOL of which it should be like .30 to .45volts range.
So I took my Stock 280zxt O2 and tested out of car and got a 0.43Volt reading by holding my butane torch to it. So Good!
the New O2 was soot covered and toast. (I think thanx to a bad FPR I got that im sure failed as the needle would bounce from 36psi to 20psi to 45psi)
lol
Love ya all!
Remember if your blowing black and your milage becomes 1MPG check your O2!!!!
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O2 sensor totally carbon fouled and only putting out .01Volts LOL put in my stock one and Boom 0.45-0.22 Volts and runnning great again yay!
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yeah I did the same. NO VCM, AAC, EGR anything lol all looped into eachother doing absolutely nothing haha.. Then just adjusted the TB to be a crack open and got a decent 900rpm idle. It might sputter occasionally but shes a great runner.. Easily 130mph lol
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Yeah well I did the ECU Swap.. everything was dandy. Then 4 weeks later I start running rich and worst off at a stop light I go to go and almost die.. all I see is puffs of black smoke out back and the smeel of raw unburned fuel... Nooo Idea!
checked friggin everything re wired everything, just changed thermostat. tried rerouting coolant tubes from turbo (cause I swapped in a 300zxt turbo) nothings worked.
Best I can do is its now bad mainly Just when turbo kicks in at 2500RPM thats after after 5 timing sessions LOL.. tried every timing possible some work better at highway some better at idle but nothing cures my over fueling at about half throttle...
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So for the past little while My car had been running crazy rich. I recently noticed that my thermostat must not be opening. After I adjusted just about everything including timing several times and re did wiring ect ect. I was about to throw my car into the ditch.
Would a non opening thermostat (of course a new crappy one!!!) Cause hesitation from a Stand still like red light to green light then black puffs of smoke out exhaust unless you JAM ON THE THROTTLE.. Poor gasmilage and weird issues at half throttle?..
Temp guage woud dip to 60oC when on highway but Mid range at stand still. Seems to be worse when rolling forward with mild throttle and Boost juuuust kicks in it farts and groans and puffs lots of black unburnt smelling furl out exhaust.
At idle its fine so.. could it be screwing witht he temp sensor and leaving itself in some odd Cold mode
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do the ECU SWAP to Z31!!! So much better hehe
other than that as said above!! REPLACE ALL VACUUM LINES seriously!.. mine ran beautifully for 10 years 1981 280zx N/A was a wonderful car tons of fun. Now its becoming part of my newer purchase 1981.5 280zxt (300zxt ECU Swap 1987)
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I checked and recut the vacuum hose to Boost sensor. I think it might have been leaking causing possible the wrong signal to ECU. I noticed this morning on way to my exam a puff of smoke as my Fusible link poofed away lol for IGN. I then noticed my plastic around the coil wires was melted.. It seems a little critter had gotten in there by coil and chewed some wires overtime it melted due to Shorting.. oh JOY. cut wires re connected and everything seems to be normal. Lucky nothing major has shown its ugly head yet. Only reason I noticed coil wires was because I was checking Vacuum line to boost sensor and noticed the wire looked odly brown when it was supposed to be green. (As I used new wires for my ECU swap) CPU seems ok so I'll be crossing my fingers in hopes all is well and fusible link did its job.
I guess this whole time it was Arcing off body causing no spark at all cylinders, thus it was hard to find cause I switched coils even and everything thinking it was the coil cause everythig was checking out lol. STUPID CRITTERS!!
*Gets out Scoped Pellet Hand Gun*
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Well.... I cranked up the Boost to about 10psi and the car seems to run good..... So thinking somethings wrong with the turbo fins.. maybe rubbing so they stick causing an overfueling condition? no Idea this is a weird one. Everything else seems to check out.. I had it at stock boost and started having the over fueling issues. Now I crank it and its liek somehow better? odd....
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The sheilding is there since the signal is a small one from the O2 any other Electomagnetic interfearence would not give a proper reading to the ECCS system. if you want take something Iron/Steel based and put that wire inside it.. something like say a tube of some sort just around engine bay cause Magnets like IRON! and they wont go after your signal hehe.. thus the sheilding is a Silver coloured metal.. prolly steel of some sort
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OK as most know from my dozens of threads lol..
I have done the 300zxt Z31 1987 ECU swap into my 280zxt.
For the First say 3 weeks everything was wonderful. Then one morning I started burning extremely Rich. So I checked MAF seems to read fine and operate as Normal as Specs can Say. Then I check TPS found that it switch resistance rather fast so Got another.. Installed that Seems better buuuut still Wiggy. So I swaped out coolant Temp sensors from my other Car Again runs a bit bettter but this is whats its doing.
Morning: Gotta get her up to about 1500rpm for a couple seconds or it stumbles.
After about 1 min shes good ideling fine.
Go to drive: Leave 10foot driveway and everythigs good go to give her about 25%-30% throttle and I bog down puff black smoke turbo spools and I start going as normal tons of power if I full throttle.
Stop Light/Stop Sign: idelling fine, go to go again normal pace and Puffs black smoke unless I gun it or lay off and do 10% throttle for a couple seconds then Jam on it! and She flies away
Highway: soon as I get up to speed things are god from the 10% throttle range to 30% from 30% to 60% I get some studdering throttle black puffs of smoke strong fuel smell but agian from 60% to WOT 100% Tons of power no Black smoke.
So Highways the best drivability bext gas milage..
Intown is horrible, tons of black smoe studdering responce and fouled spark plugs.
Now as I said before.. things were perfect for a couple weeks. I did add a Adjustable FPR and played with that to help it work for a bit then went back to Stock FPR thinking I had a Faulty new one. Same issue if not worse cause I cant meter down fuel PSI.
I have gone through tons of testing, Searched the net, tested the O2, checked Wiring, splices I made ect ect...
At the moment I cant afford injectors as Im currently taking my 1st and Second years of Automechanics (Accelerated courses) so even my time now to Diagnose is limited and its all i got to get to school soooooo.. I have tried alot of things played with timing ect ect..
UNUSUAL THINGS:
In town I get a fairly solid 80oC temp so almost dead middle but on Highway I have noticed recently it can drop as low as 55oC to 60oC. I was thinking the Turbo coolant lines where pushing to much Hot fluid at the thermostat (as I swapped a 300zxt turbo in) so I made the inlet line come from the thermostat and the outlet go to the lines that run to the Passenger side of the Head and then go into the Heater core. this did help with the temp as Highway it goes only to about 65oC to 70oc at low points.
Now is it possible I have to much power and ran the Duty cycle on the Stock injectors to long at a high rate and maybe fried them?
Sparkplugs all black sooty so I couldnt have fried all 6 right.. would be strange overnight. I do drive her hvy but I oil her and run her on 94OCT like 100% of the time.
I have tried injector cleaner, oil changes, different tps's, temp sensor at the thermostat, new coolant, better wiring.. so before I throw more at it on limited budget.. HAS ANYONE had these symptoms and did they cure it....
I wil try swapping my coils tomorrow but not sure if thats it.. though I guess if the coil has issues it would foul plugs but why at WOT and low RPM dos eit run fine.....
Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated..
thnx again GUYS
Again yes I am in Mechanics but still leraning thus each day I try something new I leanred hahaha..
Cause I'm sure the Cops dont want me driving like a GRANDMA at 40mkh or the opposite driving liek a Bat outta hell 130mph around town LOL...
As I said I had it tuned in great before easily dose 130mph so at a loss and need some other minds cause mines getting fried!!!
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Well aint this Neat
in S130 Series - 280ZX
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yeah Both my Canadian Z's 1981 and 1981.5 Turbo have 130mph guages. But man Flames are cool! LOL sorta!!.. lol Gonna have to get that metered LOL
Anyone have Front Fenders yet! please!