galloguy05

phil your my idol! I was watching your vids before i even got my z and i hope mine ends up even half as respectable as yours. Tremendous work! And way to give us Z guys a good name. I as well thought u were running mega squirt though werent you?

and by showing i mean visible without anything disassembled and where they normally should be

I have a question about the fusible link upgrades that are performed on these two write ups. http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/maxifuse.htm http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html Now i have read these both and my only question is that i am going to be doing this on a 75 280z and those 2 were performed on a 77 and a 76. Can i follow these and do as they did? Because i noticed that the 75 only has one set of fusible links showing and the 76 and 77 both have two so im somewhat confused. thanks in advance for anyones help

Yeah exactly. I think I have it narrowed down to a point to where I think maybe the fusible links are gettig too hot and my letting the current get back to the battery to charge it so it's draining the battery and slowly ruining it. I'm just waiting for someone to confirm or set me straight on this and let me know if this is a possibility because I'm not all to familiar with fusible links. So if this does happen I'll first just replace them for the time being and then possibly go to one of those painless harness kits and reside the entire car and do away with the fusible links all together.

Alright so yesterday I drove the car extensively and it ran fine up until I was on my way home for the nght. The car started sputtering and acting as if it was missing. When I first got this car it did this very same thing and replacing the battery fixed the issue. How can my battery be bad already though? I was searching and come to a conclusion that maybe my fuseable links are bad and need replacing? From what I ready they are what allows the current to the battery to charge and other things as well. If I'm incorrect on this please set me straight. But if I am right, how do I check them? Also does anyone have a site to where I can buy them to replace them if they are bad? On my way home yesterday the car died in an intersection and did the same thing I originally posted. I was able to push start it and get it home though. So that's why I'm thinking it's the fuseable links. Maybe they are gettig too hot and not allowig current to the battery?

The battery is brand new....Bought it in may of 2009. Sorry i forgot to mention that!

Smokeybear I agree with you there. Im just confused because it happens so randomly. Im going to go out and check the fuseable links and what not and possibly drive my girl to the doc in it and see what happens. she probably wont be very happy in riding in the lil z rather than my comfy yukon but she can deal with it. lol

if I try that while the car is starting normally, will jumping the battery like that still tell us anything rolling parts?

Also rucus i will do the battery test as you said. I had already planned on doing that before posting, just waiting for my friend with a voltmeter to wake up because i do not own on. Will be investing in one soon though!

Rolling Its a 75 280z. and no i did not use a jumper wire from the battery to the solenoid. I can try that next time it happens. rucus01 It seems to do it randomly. Sometimes I can drive it 80 miles and start and stop it as much as i want with no issues and then another day it will be fine but then just not work. For example I had some guys come look at the car when i wanted to sell the car (a mistake I know but dont worry I didnt go through with it) and it started perfectly fine and ran great, the guys left and I went to move the car and nothing. let it sit and the next day it started up no issue. So maybe it is after the car warms up that it happens? just so everyone knows the CAR DOES START as of right now because it happens randomly. Im just looking for trouble shooitng advice as to of what to fix so hopefully it will stop happening

if it was efi though the car would still turn over, And when i have this problem it doesnt even do that. The battery cables are new as well.

Well i am having some trouble with my z. Im sorry if this has been covered before, but frankly i dont know how to word this situation to search it so please dont flame me for not searching first. My problem is as follows: My car starts MOST of the time with no issue. But random times while driving it (after driving to local togos and parking to grab lunch for exaple) the car will not start. Its almost as if the battery is dead but it isnt. It doesnt click or any of the telltale signs of a dead battery. The voltage guages is at about half way and when i go to start it, it drops to abou 1/4, but no clicking as if the battery is dead and also no power to the starter. I took the battery to autozone and they said the battery was bad, so i then go to return it at kragens and they test it and say the battery is fine. So i take it home and put it back in the car and the car starts (i had to get it towed home the previous night after trying to jump start it and push start it) I had the altenator, and starter tested as well and they are both fine. Is this an altenator issue to where its just not charging ENOUGH power consistantly to where i should upgrade the altenator? again i'm sorry for not searching but i'm just not sure how to word this in a few words for the search engine.

So I installed the energy suspension bushings kit onto my 75 280z last week. When I got done I lowered the car to drive it and rolling down the driveway I hear this scraping sound and I notice that it sounds as if it's happening with every rotation of the driveline. So I lift the car back up and look underneath and notice that the swaybar barely clearsthe driveline by about half an inch with the car lifted up. Now I'm sure this isn't normal right?... Is there a way that I could have put the swaybar in upside down or something? I haven't really had muchtime to look at is since last week but I will tomorrow. I'm going to remove the swaybar vometely and see if that fixes the problem but as far as installing it is there a wrong way for me to have put it in? I mean it looks fairly straight forward but maybe I'm missing something there. I'll try and post pictures when I get home later to my own computer.. Thanks guys. Btw I tried searching an all that comes up is everyone upgraded swaybar or rear facing swaybar and whatnot

Ok guys thanks for the help. Looks like Im going to have to reassemble the rear with those bushings not replaced because I have to have the car done today. Ill order those parts and probably replace the bushings when I do the front end in a couple weeks. Again thanks for the help.

Thanks for the advice ezzzzzzz. I do plan on getting new tires still because mine are still shot. At the MOST i will only keep the ones i have for about a month before getting new ones. I only drive this car on rare occasion right now as it is so thats the only reason That im willing to wait even that long. But having heard that i will most definately be getting them sooner than later.

one more UPDATE!!!! took the rear end apart today to replace all the bushings and i find something shocking! the driveshaft was NOT tightened to the diff! only one bolt was more than finger tight and on top on that there was only 3 bolts holding it together.... so i think its safe to say that THAT was what was causing my problems....haha

i read the entire write up through and all i got out of it is to hit the pin until it budges correct? i dont have a spindle pin tool or anything of the sort so i guess thats my only option? Also this will most likely have to be replaced once removed or is it reuseable once i get the new bushings in because in the write up it was replaced.

i tried searching and couldnt find anything that really helped and was trying to get a kinda fast awnser because i was trying to get the control arms done tonight. i loosened the bolts on the end of the outter control arm and then the one in the middle and tapped on it to see if it comes out and it didnt budge so im wondering where to go from there. I have the control arms completely removed from the car also if that further clarifies anything.

on my 75 280z how do i remove the outter bushings? i have the inner ones done but have no clue how to remove the others so i am hoping you guys can help. those are the control arm bushings im talking about

wow...sorry guys I thought i WAS in the suspension section. I kept looking for my post and couldn't find it! I apologize for not paying attention. Side affect of working too many hours and not enough sleep. Im sure you all know where I'm coming from. :-/

thats exactly what i was wondering too...lol or if anyone has and good sites to buy the kits online as well would be greatly appreciated

Well the time has come for me to buy suspension for the z. I have already ordered the complete bushing set from energy suspension and want to swap out all struts and springs all in one shot. I was planning on buying the tokico strut and spring 1" drop but wanted your guys opinion on this set up? or if possible maybe you can direct me to a better set up. I just want to do this right the first time so i dont have to do it ever again....lol

so yesterday i started the problem solving process for this. I thought maybe i had gotten beyond my abilities an ALMOST sold the car to some kid that didnt even know what a Z car was! SO to all you die hard Z guys i apologize for the mistake i ALMOST made. lol Anyways to the problem solving... I decided to start with the obvious so i took the z down to my local big O tires for a simple balance of the tires. Knowing that the tires are about 8 years old i figured they need changing and a new balance couldnt hurt since its only 5 bucks a wheel. So i have that done and before the shaking happened at 45 mph like clock work no matter what gear or if its in gear at all. After the balance now it doesnt happen until 55-60 mph. So im thinking that the tires are just too far gone and replacing them will solve it. So this week im going to go down to the local junkyard and get a cheap set of wheels and tires (that are obviously in better shape than mine of course) and balance them and see what happens when i put them on. If it solves the problem then i will be happy and just continue on with my plan of buyin all new bushing set and suspension set up and save up for new wheels and tires If it doesnt i will look underneath at the rear and driveshaft and what not and see what the damage is (i am probably going to do it anyways but just with a different agenda). I just wanted to update you all and for anyone else searching this topic with the same issue. Thanks to everypne for the ideas and help. I will still check all the other things you all mentioned also just to have my bases covered. i am getting closer and closer to having this a daily driver that i can taste it. But then after that comes the upgrades and where the real money goes away. what a vicious cycle these Z cars put us in!

sorry HOOV100 i didnt see your reply. No i havent had a chance to actually get a chance to crawl under the car yet. So im just trying to get ideas for when i actually do. The shaking is not through the steering wheel though. It is throughout the ENTIRE vehicle after 45 mile per hour.

wow THANKS for all the info. When i put it in neutral at 60, it does kinda solve it. I mean kinda because it still shakes but it isnt as bad. Once i put it in gear and even lighly o moderately hit the gas the sound and shaking comes back ten fold until i let off the gas. Hope this makes it a little more clear. Not really sure how to explain it other than it is sort of like im constantly driving on those "cuts" or whatever they put on the side of some of these cali highways to wake up drivers that may have fallen asleep.