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FJOVA

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  1. FWIW, I am using the adaptors and they are doing very well. I am running a bored and stroked l28 -- Rebello setup. While I am not making the kind of torque and HP of a V8 I have run the adaptors hard. The only watch out I would offer anyone is to be sure when using loctite/threadlocker (or equivalent) on the bolts make certain all surfaces are clean of contaminants. I used the Permatex® High Strength Removable Threadlocker Orange with great results so far.
  2. I wanted to provide an update regarding this adventure. I returned the GSP half shafts without incident. Ultimately I could not get them to seat properly and the lack of left and right splined ends of the correct length, I believe, could be an issue long term. I managed to purchase OEM 280zxt CV axles from one the members (G-Tech) and completed a rebuild using kits from Rock Auto (BECK/ARNLEY 1032280 and BECK/ARNLEY 1032282). Thank you G-Tech. The kits were about $50 total for the 2 CV axles. The OEM axles were in good condition where it mattered (splines, tulip cup, and tri-pod ) and the rebuild is not difficult to do. Upon installing the splined ends into the diff they seated with a firm push and easily connected to the Milkfab Engineering adapters. The most difficult part of the install was disconnecting the lower control arms to allow enough clearance to fit the axles into the adapter on the companion flange (wheel) side. Ultimately this was not really difficult, just time consuming. One other note, if you do this swap be sure to keep all the adapter threads clean for effective bonding with Loctite (I used blue 243 type). I have been running with the install for about 4 weeks and there are no issues and the clunking sounds are gone. Note, my car is set up with Koni shocks and Eibach progressive rate and lowering springs yet the CV axles do not bind. I have taken it through the paces and all is good so far. The car hooks up better and is quiet. I am happy with the result and the "value for money" (cost me about $500 including all supplies) versus other options.
  3. I asked for that information from ZCARDEPOT at least twice. Crickets.
  4. Thanks to everyone for the comments. So, I had a chance to measure and inspect the GSP CV shaft and I found the following: Both right and left GSP axles are identical in length -- which I wanted to double check; The OEM stub axle is the same length on the passenger side as the GSP axle measuring from the collar to the end of the chamfer end. I have not taken the driver side stub axle out yet but this will certainly be different; The chamfer end of the GSP axle is very rough compared to the OEM stub axle -- see the two pictures below of the GSP axle. I also noted the splines at the end of the GSP axle do not appear to be as consistent in thickness. Specifically, the splines appear "fatter" near the chamfer end of the shaft. Maybe I am seeing things but you decide from the photos below; I also measured the diameter of both the OEM stub axle and the the GSP axle and they are nearly identical at ~29.8mm. That said, I wanted to see if, perhaps, the problem I was having seating the new axle was something wrong in the differential (damaged circlip, etc). So I removed the unseated axle and tried to replace the OEM stub axle into the diff. Long story short is that I was able to push the stub axle back in place with three or four firm hits with the base of my rubber mallet. Now, I would expect the new axles to be a bit tighter as they are new but I pushed and hit the new axles as hard as I could to no avail in seating them. I am not comfortable hitting them harder or loading the suspension with the axle unseated -- they may never come out. So, the issue here is probably the roughness of the chamfer end and, I believe, the irregular or inconsistent spline thickness at the chamfer end. At this point I intend to send the GSP axles back to RockAuto. While I could try to file and smooth the ends I am concerned that once I get them in I may never get them out short of a diff rebuild. G-Tech I am interested in purchasing the OEM 280zxt axles you have for sale. Please tell me about the condition, price, and terms / shipping? Or point me to where I can find them and how to complete the transaction with you.
  5. I purchased a set of GSP CV axles (for 1981 to 1983 280zx turbo) and the Milkfab Engineering adapters to convert my 78 280z (R200 Diff). I am having a very difficult time getting the axles to fully seat (working on passenger side at the moment). The axles are in the differential but there is a gap between the rim of the CV axle and the differential of about 1 inch (see pictures). I have pushed as hard as I can to seat them to no avail. The car is still on jack stand as I am afraid to load the weight of the car on the suspension for fear of binding the axles and destroying them if they are not first seated properly. Note that the GSP axles are brand new and are identical for the left and right side of the diff. I understand that is the case with these aftermarket axles unlike the OEM 280zxt axles. Has anyone done this conversion and do you have any suggestions? Please note that I was able to remove the original stub axles from the diff with no issues and they look to be in great shape.
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