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Shiboh's Achievements


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  1. My 1983 280zx n/a is misfiring at random times. With the timing light I can see the timing mark disappear at random times. This is causing my self tuning ez efi to run rich and stall. I replaced every single thing in my fuel and ignition system as well as all the gaskets on the motor and really have no clue what to do next. Has anyone on here ever had this issue and could give me some guidance? I just replaced the ICM and coil today for the second time and saw no change. I really can't afford to keep throwing parts at this thing
  2. @tokuzumi I am tapped into the 12v on the ignition coil. I know the manual says not to use the coil for power but it was the only place I could find constant 12v through crank.
  3. @Ryanotown22 Yes I am using resistor plugs. Apparently the tach adapter supplied with ez efi has issues, they recommend and msd box. I guess replacing this has helped some people with idle surging issues. The IAC is supposed to read 15% at warm idle when it's tuned correctly, with the correct recommended settings I'm seeing no less than 19% at any time. If I lower fuel pressure settings I can get it to be at or around 15% and the surging idle issue disappears. I have the feeling that using low impedance injectors is causing the system to put out more fuel than it's saying it is and messing everything up. https://www.pro-touring.com/archive/index.php/t-69999.html Many people have had this issue it seems.
  4. lol. Really it's not as fast or easy as they say it is lol. Zcardepot sent me an two sets of instructions, one from them and one from FAST. The zcardepot instructions basically just tell you what to put into the ecu pertaining to our engines. The FAST manual is much more in depth about all the sensors and how to setup the system but even so it's all really vague. They say after 50 miles the system should be tuned.
  5. So I got a new air temp sensor from autozone and re-calibrated the IAC, and it's been running pretty good. However when the engine is warm the system gets really sporadic. Everything is jumping back and forth it seems I don't get it. This is only really noticeable when idling obviously, but if I watch the A/F while cruising I can see it going back and forth. I have always had this issue with this system and was one of the first indications to me that something wasn't right.
  6. @tokuzumi If you really want EZ EFI you can still buy it from FAST. You will just have to buy all the sensors but I'm pretty sure the harness and ecu is exactly the same. Just look for their multiport kit. For what you are trying to accomplish EZ EFI is definitely the easiest and quickest way to go.
  7. That makes much more sense that it would be reading fuel flow across all injectors. At least we know our injectors aren't running 3x the amount of fuel they are rated at. But yeah that equation is probably only accurate if we're burning a perfect mixture.
  8. @tokuzumi What he said. I personally wouldn't buy it again, I'd rather have an ECU I can control more accurately. However I think it's a good, easy and relatively cheap option for bringing old Z's back to life. I'm going to be switching to megasquirt soon myself.
  9. @NewZed Well I recently swapped to FAST's EZ EFI and am still working out the kinks. I know it runs slightly rich sometimes but to what extent I'm not sure at this point. I've blown injectors on previous tunes but I seem to have that figured out. My engine only smells rich on first startup. When warm there is no gasoline smell and a/f seems good. I am thinking that the electronic IAC supplied with the EZ EFI kit is compensating for the change in vacuum when removing the oil cap/ dipstick, etc. When I first got the car I removed the oil cap to check for vacuum leaks and it died, now with new EFI it doesn't.
  10. @NewZed So then my engine would be running super rich, right? I have tried removing the dipstick, oil cap, and both PCV hoses. I have even tried removing all at the same time and the engine still ran. I don't notice any change when removing any or all of these things.
  11. @Ryanotown22 I just noticed my air temp reading fluctuating yesterday, before it was always steady. I haven't checked mine yet but I suspect it has melted since it's so close to the rad. And that makes sense about the AFR. Now I'm not seeing any big difference in our readings, however I don't feel like these readings are what they should be. If the injectors are rated at 19lb/hr and we are pushing almost 60 at WOT that's not good, right? I've already had to replace injectors once because I blew my original set trying to setup the ez efi. By the way it looks like your tps voltage is low, mine sits at .7 v at idle and 4.7 at WOT, which I'm pretty sure is where it's supposed to be. Then again I'm a noob so don't take my word for it.
  12. I have heard many times that these l28 EFI engine will stall if you remove the dip stick/ pcv hoses while the engine is running, however mine will stay running without any of those things in place. Does anybody know why that would be? I recently replaced the pcv valve to see if that was it but that made no difference. I've been told vacuum leaks will cause this however my manifold vacuum readings are proper through the whole rpm range. Starting to think it's gotta be piston rings or something...
  13. @Ryanotown22 I changed all my settings to yours exactly, and re calibrated the TPS and IAC. Seems to run a little better during idle, not so much when you rev it. With the 20 psi settings I was not experiencing nearly as rich a mixture as these settings, when revving/under load. I'm gonna give the computer time to work and see if it leans it out a bit. I still think having low impedance injectors is my main issue.
  14. @Ryanotown22 Thanks for sharing. Your system compared to mine is wayy more steady over all. If you floor it in neutral does the engine like to rev or does it seem like it bogs for a second? Also is your PVC system still in place? Mine is still connected however it doesn't seem to work properly (engine stays running if disconnected), yet I still get good vacuum readings. Thinking that could be part of the issue as well.
  15. @Ryanotown22 My needle is all the way to the left of the red bar. won't tighten anymore for some reason. I may have sprung a leak somewhere recently.
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