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Everything posted by Shiboh

  1. @tokuzumi I am tapped into the 12v on the ignition coil. I know the manual says not to use the coil for power but it was the only place I could find constant 12v through crank.
  2. @Ryanotown22 Yes I am using resistor plugs. Apparently the tach adapter supplied with ez efi has issues, they recommend and msd box. I guess replacing this has helped some people with idle surging issues. The IAC is supposed to read 15% at warm idle when it's tuned correctly, with the correct recommended settings I'm seeing no less than 19% at any time. If I lower fuel pressure settings I can get it to be at or around 15% and the surging idle issue disappears. I have the feeling that using low impedance injectors is causing the system to put out more fuel than it's saying it is an
  3. lol. Really it's not as fast or easy as they say it is lol. Zcardepot sent me an two sets of instructions, one from them and one from FAST. The zcardepot instructions basically just tell you what to put into the ecu pertaining to our engines. The FAST manual is much more in depth about all the sensors and how to setup the system but even so it's all really vague. They say after 50 miles the system should be tuned.
  4. So I got a new air temp sensor from autozone and re-calibrated the IAC, and it's been running pretty good. However when the engine is warm the system gets really sporadic. Everything is jumping back and forth it seems I don't get it. This is only really noticeable when idling obviously, but if I watch the A/F while cruising I can see it going back and forth. I have always had this issue with this system and was one of the first indications to me that something wasn't right.
  5. @tokuzumi If you really want EZ EFI you can still buy it from FAST. You will just have to buy all the sensors but I'm pretty sure the harness and ecu is exactly the same. Just look for their multiport kit. For what you are trying to accomplish EZ EFI is definitely the easiest and quickest way to go.
  6. That makes much more sense that it would be reading fuel flow across all injectors. At least we know our injectors aren't running 3x the amount of fuel they are rated at. But yeah that equation is probably only accurate if we're burning a perfect mixture.
  7. @tokuzumi What he said. I personally wouldn't buy it again, I'd rather have an ECU I can control more accurately. However I think it's a good, easy and relatively cheap option for bringing old Z's back to life. I'm going to be switching to megasquirt soon myself.
  8. @NewZed Well I recently swapped to FAST's EZ EFI and am still working out the kinks. I know it runs slightly rich sometimes but to what extent I'm not sure at this point. I've blown injectors on previous tunes but I seem to have that figured out. My engine only smells rich on first startup. When warm there is no gasoline smell and a/f seems good. I am thinking that the electronic IAC supplied with the EZ EFI kit is compensating for the change in vacuum when removing the oil cap/ dipstick, etc. When I first got the car I removed the oil cap to check for vacuum leaks and it died, now with new EF
  9. @NewZed So then my engine would be running super rich, right? I have tried removing the dipstick, oil cap, and both PCV hoses. I have even tried removing all at the same time and the engine still ran. I don't notice any change when removing any or all of these things.
  10. @Ryanotown22 I just noticed my air temp reading fluctuating yesterday, before it was always steady. I haven't checked mine yet but I suspect it has melted since it's so close to the rad. And that makes sense about the AFR. Now I'm not seeing any big difference in our readings, however I don't feel like these readings are what they should be. If the injectors are rated at 19lb/hr and we are pushing almost 60 at WOT that's not good, right? I've already had to replace injectors once because I blew my original set trying to setup the ez efi. By the way it looks like your tps voltage is low, mine s
  11. I have heard many times that these l28 EFI engine will stall if you remove the dip stick/ pcv hoses while the engine is running, however mine will stay running without any of those things in place. Does anybody know why that would be? I recently replaced the pcv valve to see if that was it but that made no difference. I've been told vacuum leaks will cause this however my manifold vacuum readings are proper through the whole rpm range. Starting to think it's gotta be piston rings or something...
  12. @Ryanotown22 I changed all my settings to yours exactly, and re calibrated the TPS and IAC. Seems to run a little better during idle, not so much when you rev it. With the 20 psi settings I was not experiencing nearly as rich a mixture as these settings, when revving/under load. I'm gonna give the computer time to work and see if it leans it out a bit. I still think having low impedance injectors is my main issue.
  13. @Ryanotown22 Thanks for sharing. Your system compared to mine is wayy more steady over all. If you floor it in neutral does the engine like to rev or does it seem like it bogs for a second? Also is your PVC system still in place? Mine is still connected however it doesn't seem to work properly (engine stays running if disconnected), yet I still get good vacuum readings. Thinking that could be part of the issue as well.
  14. @Ryanotown22 My needle is all the way to the left of the red bar. won't tighten anymore for some reason. I may have sprung a leak somewhere recently.
  15. @Ryanotown22 Nice, so is your AFR staying steady? I'm pretty sure that the EZ EFI system is only supposed to work with high impedance injectors, just to be safe I'd make sure that's what you're using, otherwise the injectors are gonna push alot more fuel than the ECU thinks they are. As it sits we have almost the exact same system, yet mine runs worse than yours it seems. My AFR is contantly jumping up and down 15.9-12.0 back and forth during idle and under any load, although not as much during WOT. Vacuum readings are great at all rpms. Fuel pressure is great. No exhaust or intake
  16. @Ryanotown22 How does it run at idle? and under load? After all I've found that my injectors are still the problem. I thought the stock injectors for the 83 ZX were high impedance, so I bought OEM style injectors for the FAST system, which turned out to be low impedance. These are what I will be replacing them with: https://www.motormanfuelinjection.com/page/subpage/fuel-injector-upgrades/L28E-upgrade-injector.htm If I were you I would test my injectors with a multi meter to make sure you're using high impedance injectors, as far as I can tell the stock injectors on most if not all N/A L28'
  17. I can't seem to find any stock injector specs for my Z actually, which means I'm still sort of guessing on fuel pressure in the ecu. I've looked through BOSCH's website but I can't seem to match any part numbers with mine or any other stock injectors.
  18. @Ryanotown22 I bought the GP Sorensen set, part number#800-1507N-6. I can't find any specs on these injectors but they are definitely high impedance since they work with the FAST ecu.
  19. Setting I am using are as follows; base fuel pressure; 25 psi injector pressure; 19lb/hr @20 psi Fuel trim; -8 for accel setting, zero for cranking. AFR set to 14.1 at idle, 14.5 at cruise and 13.8 at wot idle set to 750 rpm Arent stock injectors high impedance? My problem was that someone had put low impedance injectors on the car different from stock, so I bought OEM high impedence injectors from autozone.
  20. @tokuzumi By the way you can still buy this kit from FAST themselves, although it is not the exact same. Just look for EZ EFI multiport kit (or any mulitport kit), and all the sensors/adapters that go with the harness. It's also a couple hundred $ cheaper than ZCAR depot I think.
  21. @tokuzumi The issue I was having turned out to be caused by the injectors. After looking through part numbers I found that my injectors were low ohm turbo injectors which do not work with the EZ EFI kit. However I am not very pleased with the overall experience I had with the EZ EFI kit, and would have much rather bought a megasquirt system if I knew then what I know now. EZ EFI works, but it's really made for big V8's not our small l28's. I literally had to turn every fuel setting to the minimum for the engine to even run, then let the ecu work the rest out. The instructions I was given from
  22. @silverado22c Ahhh I see. Thanks for your insight. Everything is starting to make sense slowly. Weird that this kit removes so many sensors without replacing them. I noticed that my O2 correction in the ecu is all over the place, so yeah the headers are next on my list I guess. And the EZ EFI is the same for all the 280's I believe, if it's from zcardepot.
  23. @NewZed The kit came with a new coolant temp sensor to put in place of the old one. This sensor attaches to the radiator hose inlet on my intake manifold.I'll try to test the resistance tomorrow. The kit came with an LCD screen on which I can basically tell the ECU what engine it's running with and that's about it. Took the car for a drive and the system seems to be working good. I think I'll let the ecu work out what it wants to and if I still am running rich then I'll have to look for more about that CHTS.
  24. @NewZed Ah okay, well that's definitely what's making me run so rich i think. Although,I added a new coolant temp sensor that connects to the ecu from the front of the engine where the radiator hose connects. Wouldn't this compensate? Or must I have both of those sensors working for a proper running engine?
  25. I think I have found the issue. Engine was being flooded beyond belief. The spec zcar depot told me to input for fuel is way too high. After messing with the settings I found that 19lb/hr at 20psi for the injectors seems to be where it needs to be. I had to set AFR as high as I could. Fuel trim to -8 on every setting.Car runs much better and will rev to redline, however it's still extremely rich and backfiring still stalling if i use too much throttle. And @NewZedmy map reading does go up with throttle, it just stays high at idle. I have no way to plug the cylinder head temp sensor to my new
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