98cobra+75280z

do you have any pics? I would love to look at your cars and see how you did stuff.

thanks for the input guys, I think i may just hang onto it since it looks like the money just isnt there. My plans were to get it running and then find a decent two seater to build and then swap the 2+2 powerplant and scrap it. As for getting rid of the cobra, thats out of the question since she was my first car and ive had it for around 6 years so its part of the family. I was just needing to scrape some money for a single 76mm turbo kit for the mustang since its not gotten near the attention it deserves. THANKS again to everyone and getting me hooked on the zeds. I just hope to one day get it running and have a car half as nice as the ones on here.

I dont really need the money, but if i got some out of it right now i could start on my turbo cobra project instead of waiting for more funds. Your correct that the 280 isn't running right now, i am in the middle of the MSnS install and have been slowly learning tips to putting that in but haven't been able to work on it since May because of my summer internship. I would prefer to not sell or part out the car unless i stand to make around 2k or so. I am unclear on how much these parts go for so i have no clue if i can come close to that. If i cant i will just hang onto the car until graduation this year and finish the project then. Thanks for your response.

Hey guys, I have been a member here for a while and love the early zeds but my project is getting over my head and i have a 98 cobra that im wanting to build up here shortly so i am considering selling my 75 280z 2+2. I know the 2+2 isnt very desirable but im sure there are some good parts on there that people could use. I dont want to sell anything if i dont stand much of a chance of making money on it, or at least breaking even. I am in the middle of building the 280 up to being a reliable turbo car but i am in school and working as a intern in michigan for the summer so i wont have any time to work on it. Here is the list of mods: -'82 l28et- approximate miles around 130,XXX -MS1 v2.2 (comes build with a relay board and harness and a full engine side harness) -swastica wheels -skyline R33 turbo (water cooled center) -Borg Warner 5 spd -N42 intake (blocked EGR) This post's purpose was to just get a general idea of how much to ask for the parts so that i can deside whether i am going to keep it or try and part it out. Thanks for your guys help.

I have the MS wired to the relay board so Im pretty sure thats all wired right.

Does the spark need to be inverted because of the MSD box or does it also have to be inverted for the HEI install??

Sorry about how vague that was. If you look at the MegaStim, version 2.21, below the RPM pot there is a box that is a switch. The label for the switch flips from PNP to NPN. I have no clue what these labels mean or even what the switch is for but when i switched it the tach stopped working in Megatune and i can't seem to get my tach to work again.

I wired the injectors from Mobys writeup with one 6 ohm resistor on the +12v lead to each injector and then the grounded sides of the first three injectors are grounded to bank 1 and the second three to bank 2. Yes i build the box and its very possible that i made a mistake somewhere, is there a good way to check for a short?? I took the box out of the car and noticed that the cpu chip wasn't contacting very well, so i pushed it down and the tach on megatune began to work again. However i then accidentally flipped the rpm potentiometer from PNP to NPN and the tach stopped working again. I couldn't get it to work anymore so i desoldered the Q5 and put another transistor in and still i can't get the tach to work. I can't figure out what is wrong with my MS, sorry for all the questions and problems. Thanks for your guys advice.

I have stock 280zxt injectors and im running a stock '75 injector resistor pack. I took the resistor pack apart and ran one resistor on each injector and the resistors measured out around 6 ohms each.

I have a MS1 v2.2 and i keep burning out my Q5 transistor. What could cause this?? I can't seem to get my car to fire over and idle, I am also trying to get my timing set but i can't get the middle led on the megasquirt to light up when i set the timing to 60 deg BTDC. What is the trick to this? The wiring is correct and i have gotten the led to light up before the Q5 burnt out but now it won't light up anymore. any help is greatly appreciated. thanks guys

I have spark now!!! It was a pull up resistor in my fiddle relay that was overheating the HEI module and my Q5 transistor was also burnt out so i replaced it and now i have spark. I am now concentrating on the fuel side of the install. My fuel pump doesn't seem to want to start. It works if i connect 12v to the wiring harness but the relay board isn't outputting any voltage when the pump is supposed to be primed and when the car is on it also wont output any voltage to turn the actual pump on. Is there any relay board modifications that need to be made to allow the megasquirt to output a voltage to the fuel pump.

Any body on here that is running the HEI module that can tell me whether you wired the coil with 12v or not.??

Im trying to go through and read other posts and figure this out on my own but there seems to be so much mixed information that is all different. For example what are your spark settings like, I copied the Moby's spark settings to attempt to get the car to start, but I came across a post that claims if you have a '83 dizzy you should be able to run a trigger angle of ~60 with no addition. Is this correct because i have around a 60 degree trigger angle with a addition of +45 degrees. This is the post i am referring to: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/58954-ok-now-im-pissed/page__p__539674__hl__testing__fromsearch__1#entry539674 Is there anyone that could help me out on what settings they used to get their cars running, I am getting lost in all the contradictory information I am reading. Thanks for all the posts and your patience with me.

I wont be able to work on the car until saturday afternoon but i figured i would try to trouble shoot with my stim board until then. When I hook up the stim board to the MS and then to Megatune i am not able to get any rpm signal on the gauge in Megatune. What could cause this?? when I go to crank the car over the tach in Megatune seems to be working fine. So I guess my question would be is my stim board damaged or is something in my MS not working properly.

When you say touch W to power to see if it sparks, do you mean a 12 power lead from the battery or a 5 volt lead from the relay board??

I have been reading through more posts and came across this one: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/62746-no-spark/page__p__581434__hl__no+spark__fromsearch__1#entry581434 In this post Moby writes that a 12v switched that is live under cranking should be wired to the (+) terminal on the coil. When I do this my HEI module heats up quickly and I am left with no spark. However when I disconnect the 12v i still have no spark but the module doesn't heat up. Those of you that use the HEI module, with success, do you have the 12v hooked up or not???? I have bought two modules and had them both tested and I'm told they are working fine. Yet NO spark. Is there settings in my MSQ that are wrong. I can't figure out what i have done wrong, since i followed all the directions in Mobys writeup and all my settings are settings I used from the map sharing folders. I just used them to try and get my car to start so I can get to tuning it. If you guys have the time can you look through my MSQ and see if there is something that sticks out as wrong or something I overlooked. Thanks for your guys replies. MS1(l28et) (2).zip

I went out and disconnected the 12v to the coil and low and behold the HEI module doesn't seem to heat up hardly at all. Thanks for catching that Adimir, However, I still have no spark. could the little time I had that module set up with the constant 12v fry the module. Could there be some settings in my MSQ that are wrong. NewZed, What your saying makes sense with the module needing only small spikes in voltage which could have lead to my module heating up. The only thing is that there have been so many people that have used the HEI module with good results, yet I seem to have the same settings and wiring now yet I have no spark.

Could this also cause me to have no spark??

Latest update... No closer it seems.. I bought a new HEI module and put it in. I made sure the option on spark inverted was on NO. As far as my wiring I have 12v going to the coil positive. then I have the HEI module wired as follows: Pin G goes to FIDLE on the relay board and also has a pull up resistor to 5v ref. Pin w goes to a chassis ground. Pin B goes to the (+) lead on the coil and Pin C goes to (-) lead on the coil. I still have no spark and the ground bolt on the HEI module thats nearest to the Pins that go to the coil gets hot almost immediately. What could cause this side of the module to get so hot so quickly . Should I have not ran a 12v to the coil positive that runs to the HEI pin B. Im so lost on why the HEI module is getting so hot so quickly. Thanks for baring with me. I just have no idea why this module isn't giving me spark and is heating so quickly.

I got a chance to work on the car this weekend, but no success. I put my switched 12v on a master kill switch mounted in the center console, so I know i have 12v under cranking. I switched the dwell settings to FIXED DUTY and 75% and I also changed back to no spark inverted. When I put a voltmeter to the HEI 4 module I have 5 volts to pin G and ground to pin W. Pin B has 12v and is connected to the (+) side of the coil and finally pin C is connected to the (-) side of the coil. When I am cranking the car the HEI gets really hot and gets hot quit fast. What could cause this.? When I go to crank the car I have no spark. I am using a timing light on cylinder 1 but I still have no spark. The middle led on MS is blinking and seems to at least think I have spark. Does anyone know what settings I could have wrong or possible wiring i could have missed that's not mentioned in Moby's writeup.

Hey guys here is my MSQ. If you guys have time and don't mind can you check it out and make sure everything I have done seems ok. Thanks for your help MS1_v2.2(l28et).zip

First off i have a 75 280z with a 82 l28et swap. Im running MS1 v2.2 with a gm HEI4, i also have a relay board from DIY. I have hooked everything up as Moby's writeup and double and triple checked my wiring. One thing I need to go back and make sure is my switched 12v source, Im not 100% sure it is live during cranking. The problems I am having is first with no no spark during cranking. I am pretty sure that the switched source i have, which is from the fuse box, is good and i was hoping to get some tips on were to check to make sure the different components in my ignition circuitry are good and have the proper voltage supplied to them. I set the base timing as described in moby's writeup and set my middle led to IRQ trigger. When i moved the distributor i got the middle led to light up so i preceded to tighten the dizzy down and go from there. I also have the fuel pump hooked up and tested it with just a constant 12v power wire to make sure it works. In megatune the fuel pump shows that it is getting the 5 sec prime but it never seems to actually turn on. And under cranking the fuel pump doesn't turn on. I am confused as to what could cause all these problems since i hooked everything up from moby's writeup and purchased a new hei module so i am certain it is good. The car ran fine when i started this project so the other components should be ok. I cant seem be able to attach my msq, so i will just type some of the settings and if you guys need more info or pictures ill post them. CODE BASED OUTPUTS FIDLE function - spark output A LED17 - squirt LED18 - IRQ trigger LED19 - acceleration SPARK SETTINGS Trigger angle - 60 Angle addition - +45 Spark out inverted - yes DWELL SETTINGS dwell control - fixed duty duty cycle - minimal for HEI4 Im not sure what else to include. sorry for the long post thanks for all your help and being patient..

Sorry about the picture size. I didn't realize the space they were taking up. The first part of the install seemed very easy, I just followed the guide that moby wrote up and also looked at some wiring schematics from megamanual. In all of these they never really mentioned the ignition wiring, so i then pulled up factory wiring diagrams to see where the wires from the plug in the picture lead to. They went everywhere and anywhere it seems, switching colors and going into things I don't use/have anymore. This is why I was hoping to get some incite from you guys. Thanks for your response and sorry again about the massive picture file size. Kevin

No body is willing to put in their two cents. I am just curious as to how you guys wired the megasquirt to the ignition switch on the steering column.

I have been trying to get my 75 280z running before summer comes around since i won't be home and will have no time to work on the car. I have a '82 l28et with n42 intake and attempting to install ms1 v2.2 into the car. So far i have the entire outside harness made and the resistor pack installed for the injectors as instructed by Moby's write up. I am using a gm HEI 4 to fire my coil and modified my relay board to jumper IDL to fidle. There is a picture of my relay board attached, It has a 2.2k pull up resistor and a jumper wire in place of the fidle relay. I am hoping someone could look at how I wired it and let me know if i did it correctly. he major problem i am having is getting the ignition switch wired. In most of the write ups I've read and on the DIY website all the ignition wiring only shows a key hooked to 12V and to the relays. I have no clue how to wire the ignition switch into my relay board or what wires to connect. There is the 4 wire plug that comes off the ignition. The wire colors are: blk/white, blk/yellow, white/red, green/blue Can someone please help me with this wiring and how to connect it to my relays on the relay board so I can hopefully try firing the car up this weekend and maybe get some tuning in before summer starts.. Sorry for all the questions I just want to make sure to do this right.. Thanks for all your help guys.