98cobra+75280z

Next step was the motor and wiring. So first I pullet the l28et from my '75, along with my MS1 and relay board. I needed to clock the turbo so while I was at that I tied up the turbo coolant lines and installed my WBO2 sensor. After a couple hours of wrestling with the motor it was finally in. Then I began to piece together my wiring harness. I installed quick disconnects to the engine harness to make working on the car easier. Next I attempted to install my 440cc injectors, The injectors wouldn't sit in the manifold so off the manifold came to be filed out. then I put in the big injectors and my palnet rail. Took the time to finish the intercooler piping as well. After the motor and wiring were finished it was finally time to get the car out of the garage and begin tuning. Also some pics of the completed car.

Time for a massive update! The car has been drivable since March, but with school being insane and my internship at ford taking me back to Dearborn and five hours north of home I haven't had much time to update of work on the car for that matter. But here is my build update from December when I bought the car to March when I got it back out of the garage and drivable. I wouldn't say the car is finished since I am scratching my head at a possible RB25 swap in the hunt for more power of course. Anyways here it is! This was the car when I got it pushed into the garage, I need to add that I live in Indiana and that this build took place over winter break with one space heater haha. And as luck would have it when spring rolled around and the temps warmed up my dad found a deal on a propane heater. Of course by this time the cold of winter was behind us. Anyway, The car was a mere rolling chassis with sectioned strut tubes but an otherwise incomplete suspension. So the first step was to take all the suspension off of my '75 and put in on the '77. The sectioned strut housings are still in my garage and waiting on me to pull the trigger on some ground control coilovers. Money is of course a little tight right now, but I only have one semester before I graduate from Purdue and then I can start really building my dream Z. After the suspension was buttoned back up I felt that the interior was the next on the list. Mostly because I could put my space heater to good use inside the car. First I took care of some minor rust on the pass floor and rail. After that I installed all the carpet from the '75 and also some '90 jeep Cherokee seats. Then I installed my wideband and boost gauge along with my switch panel and pioneer radio. I also took the time to clean up the door panels and put a dash mat over the heavily cracked dash. next I got a new shifter ball for my birthday!

Made from aluminium to house a single gauge and two switches to control my fuel pump and radio.

It would make to much sence for the car to act up around tools. lol What settings will change for high Z injectors compared to low Z with resistors? I have PWM current to 100% and PWM time set to 25.5 ms. Is that needing modification. Thanks again guys

all six measured between 9 and 10 ohms each, they are from Venom.

I just finished installing some 440cc injectors, i believe they are high impedance but am not totally sure. I measured them with an ohm meter and they are all around 9 to 10 ohms. This is much higher then 2-3 for low impedance but i keep reading that high Z will be around 12 ohms. My biggest question is do I need to reinstall my resistor pack or should these injectors be ok. Also is there any way the new injectors could be causing resets to occur. I drove my car back to school today ( around a 2.5 to 3 hour drive) and the car drove great the hole way until the last leg of the trip. Then the car started bucking every once and a while, like the feeling the car has when i burn something to the computer while driving. I opened up the MS and nothing seemed to be hot or smell burnt. BTW the car is a 77 with an 82 l28et running MS1 v2.2 and a HEI 4 Thanks for your help.

IIRC the tach and speedo come out the front. The three gauges in the middle are secured by one screw each in the back, they must be taken out from behind. Remove the a/c bezel and you can see the fasteners.

what are you using to tune with?

Thanks for your guys help. It was the o2 correction that was throwing off the tuning process. Thanks again,Kevin

I am in the middle of tuning and so far I have my idle and under load AFR's pretty solid. However, and this is a huge however, the car when I am cruising will not hold a steady AFR. It oscillates from 12.5 to 16.5 and will refuse to level out. I am using tunerstudio VE analyze live and I feel like my fuel map is pretty solid, but wether I try to tune manually or use tunerstudio I can't get my AFR's to hold steady. What am I doing wrong, or is there something I am missing regaurding the tuning strategy. Thanks for the help, Kevin

was that with stock injectors?? how much boost can the 260cc's handle

I got a shift knob for my birthday. I think it looks great!

The car is almost completly done! just a small section of the frame that still needs patched up as well as hooking up the tach and water temp gauges. Other than that all thats left is tuning. These pictures take you from when I purchased the car back in December through the complete build. All the suspension was taken out of the car and redone as well as the motor swap from the '75 2+2. The motor is a stock '82 l28et with a skyline turbo and now runs of MS1 v2.2. The interior was completly gutted when I bought the car but now has Jeep Cherokee seats, dash carpet, custom switch panel, pioneer radio and speakers, and boost, wideband, and oil pressure gauges. The car will probably never be finished since I am now thinking about the next stages of the build. But at least it runs under it's own power now and can be driven. Thanks Hybridz for all your guys help thoughout this build.

PROBLEM SOLVED!!! Thanks you guys, it was the trigger advance that I had set wrong. Car runs just fine now. Now to tuning. Kevin

If that is the case (the computer thinking i need it to skip a cylinder) my spark settings could lead to my problem. I will try it this weekend and let you know what happens. Thanks for the input.!

Moby, Thanks for the reply i will try that out this weekend when i can work on the car some more. As for the settings i used were from this page: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/47394-msns-extra024s9-settings-in-jpeg-format/ What exactly does the additon angle do? I'm not sure i completly understand the theory behind this parameter.

Could my timing match during idle but vary after that. Could that cause the isssues I am seeing?

I checked timing values and what tunerstudio says my timing is, is what i see with the timing light. At idle it is around 19* BTDC. The only problem i had with timing was trying to follow the install guide. I set it to around 50* and then set that value in tunerstudio. I then adjusted until the timing light matched what tunerstudio said. The problem i have though is my settings ended up being as follow: trigger angle (degree)----------------- 38 trigger advance ------------------------- +45 I know in the install sticky his settings are like 80* +45 I'm not sure why mine are so much different but it was the only way to get the timing at idle to match up.

I am using all the settings and maps found in the FAQ sticky concerning megasuirt installation. I believe it was written by Moby. The maps seem to be fine, as are my settings. They are the same as all the settings in the installation guide. And the engine cuts out just like a rev limiter, it oscillates back and forth just like the spark is being cut out. The AFR's are steady up to the event but then go sparatic, which makes sense with the radpid change of AFR when the spark is cut for the rev limiter. The problem is i don't have the limiter set that low and i cant figure out any settings that would behave this way. I am thinking about trying to just reflash the computer and start from scratch.

Hey guys, I'm having one problem in my car. The car starts up and idles great, even revs quite nicely until you hit 3000 rpm. I am in the process of tuning the car since i just got it running, but here are some specs: - 82 l28et - stock turbo injectors - walbro 255 lph pump - fmic - n42 intake - MS1 v2.2 - AEM wideband So back to the problem i am having. I start the car and allow it to warm up, to start tuning with VE analyze live. When i blip the throttle and rev it it hits 3000rpm and then starts cutting spark (I am assuming) since it sounds just like a hard cut rev limiter. Nothing i do seems to change this, I have launch control turned off, soft cut limiter at 5000, and hard cut at 5200 rpm. There isnt anything I can think of that would cause the motor to refuse to rev. Any help is greatly appriciated! Kevin

Is it still possible to purchase an 11mm o-ring fuel rail. I just picked up a set of venom 440cc injectors for my car. How much to purchase and ship to 47240? Hopefully your still making them. Thanks, Kevin

Check out Big Phils 280, flares and a 240 rear bumper. Looks great IMO.

PM sent concerning tank

What year 280? i have a 75 2+2 tank and pump that i am no longer useing. I know that this tank is different from my 77 tank so im not sure if its what your looking for.

hang in there. i can't say engineering ever gets easier, because it gets much worse but if you keep at it youll get through to your degree. I am a senior at Purdue University in mechanical engineering and through these last four years there have been numerous times that the classes seemed to only get the best of me. But after 4 years of dedication i am about to graduate as an engineer and i can't think of many things that have given me that sense of accomplishment. hang in there, its worth it in the end