christianmoller

Hello, As you said, i would arm my self with a good multimeter and check ground cables and for power dip around the ECU area to begin with. /Christian

Hello, Almost, there😊. a small bracket were the steering column enters the engine bay to remove and the radiator frame and then ready to paint. A couple of layers with Epoxi and three layers of filler and then Emerald green. After the Epoxy i'm going to seal of some places around the firewall and inner fender, potential water intrusion. A bigger hole in the radiator frame left side for air filter in front of engine bay.

I have now started the NOT so fun job with removing old paint from the engine bay, it has been painted with some black paint that sticks in the paper of the sanding machine so a knife, elbow grease and hours................but need to be done😴. I read Toolmans post about the media blaster from Auto Zone, could be usable for the surface rust under the former battery tray. Heater has also been solved, new bracket and hoses

Today i created a milestone, i mounted the throttle pedal😱😁😎. I also welded some old bolt holes and took some not wanted brackets away from the engine bay. There were also time for some thinking of the water lines, i think i have a solution, move the vacuum/water thing closer to the heater valve and i have deleted the short pipe that goes thru the fire wall. What is the actual purpose of the vacuum/water valve? i'm well aware that it shut the water of but the heater valve does the same?!?!? When i look in the FSM for Air condition i see that is open in every mode of operation (AC/Heater) or am i missing something? 🍻 Edit: been reading some more......it seems like the vacuum valve blocks hot water in AC and Vent positions and the HOT/COLD lever don't do anything in these positions,...................i think so if i keep the heater valve closed in these positions i might be able to delete the vacuum valve, or? It will help a lot when plumbing.

Good evening , Today's work was finishing engine room harness, take the dash board iut and start with the heater and Ac lines. I cut my record of taking the dash out by 15 minutes so i'm down to 30 minutes🤣🤣 AC lines were easy, just shortens 2.5 inches so the joint went inside the car, heater lines need some more work. I need to have the joint inside the car as the pipes hit the cylinder head so a 90° bend is needed at inlet/outlet in the firewall. Shorten the vacuum ting and move the water valve will probably do the trick(we will see tomorrow🤣). I also open up the "Interlock" unit, lot of ancient komponents. All of it's funktions are deleted as they are not needed anymore. /🍻Saturday Christian

Hello, Engine went out today, time for the engine bay, old brackets has to go and some new goes in. Welding some holes that not going to be used, routing AC and heater lines,

Ahh, thanks👍

Hello, Yes it will be serviceable. I dont have any brake booster as i have two master cylinders, one front and one rear so they sit flush to the fire wall. on the inside there are a pivot rod between the cylinders were the pedal connects, it is possible to alter the point were the pedal press on the pivot rod(front/rear). I'm sure there is a English word for this but ......i dont know. Did not take the engine out today, maybe tomorrow. There was a lot of cables though that went to cable heaven🤣.

good evening gents ! Small parts that takes time has happens, washer fluid bottle bracket, lower radiator hose, radiator sitts were it should, homemade thermostat housing. As we have holiday in Sweden tomorrow i'm going to take the engine out tomorrow for further work in the engine bay, ac lines, heater lines,weld old holes that is not in use, electrics(wire loom) and so on😴. Have a nice evening

Hello, You have done some great job👍, i have just started the journey. /Christian

Hello, Did some work on the radiator, brackets, shielding and some stuff..... Slow progress now.😴 /Christian

Nice job you are doing👍, not close to that. I,m looking at your frame rails and probably going to do something similar, seems to be a good idea to extend them all the way back. /Christian

Thanks, i'll look in to that. Christian

Hello all, Is this a one off front spoiler? Thanks Christian Tried to link to the picture but came to the gallery.........it's the front pic i'm after https://mzrroadsports.co.uk/the-lion-rock-commission/

I had some time in the laser today so i decided to make new mounts for my seats😀. More on this later as they have no priority and are" a bit " of neerd warning. As the engine is 6.2 litre why not make it a 620Z😎

Found this on my phone 😀. It is a start up video to check that everything works before i drop it in the car.

Hello, Slow progress this week............ Got the Corvette radiator and fan and ordered som sheet metal to make some brackets. Also started to wrap the primary tubes on the headers, not fun the stainless zip ties are hard to get tight enough even with a proper tool.

Happy Easter to you all, Steering rack was moved to the left 5mm to make more room for the primary tubes, new extension made to the right side. Most of the primary tubes are now welded, stainless is a pain as they tend to bend in their own way....😐. Some reinforcements are made around the hatches in the fender. As battery is moved to the rear i'm using this place for expansion bowl and fuse box for the engine plus coils. on the left side there will be clutch master cylinder and coils and maybe washer fluid bowl.

i drove the 260 in to my garage in October and decided to do the swap😎 Old engine out and the new in :), nope.... The LSA has been started on a pallet to see that everything works ok. ECU is a E67 from a 2012 Camaro ZL1 and i added a FPCM to PWM control fuel pumps. The radiator and fan is from a Corvette C7, also PWM controlled. Homemade 180° headers. As the steering rack had some play in the bushings i decided to get a power steering rack, i went with a Vauxhall Corsa rack, flipped upside down and mounted in front of the cross member with homemade brackets, seems to work😀 Brackets on the pic is temporary plastic ones, needed to put the rack in the lathe for small adjustments. Have a nice evening Christian 20240229_171533.mp4

With new tires and shocks (BC) i decided to swap out the seats as i was all over the inside 😁. Wheels were Rota RBs that i widened rear 3/4 and front is going to be a tad narrower to get a proper scrub radius. Tires are Nankang 255/40-17 and front is 225/45-17. Painted gold for that 70ies look😎 Rear are 9.5 wide and front will be 7.5. Front hubs are Nissan S13 (modified struts) as i got some not so nice feel in my break pedal, had some flex in the old set up that made the travel in the pedal is a bit longer after a hard turn. The seats are Cobra Nogaro, super help from these guys. Comments are welcome good or bad. Have a nice weekend👍 Christian

As i'm half way in in this swap things that i post is mods that i already have done :). Another thing i did when i did the brakes was building new rear control arms, narrowed down track with with 16mm/5/8" to accommodate modified Rota wheels. That included shorter half shafts, narrowed in my lathe, they were hard so i have to buy some expensive inserts/tools. I also made a jigg to get angles correct when welding. They are now adjustable. I'm going polyurethane bushings as i want this to be a fast road car and not a track car only. With them i could go with the R180 for last summer to sort out the brakes. With the now mounted R200 i have to make new ones again🤣. /Christian

Hello everyone, I was thinking of starting a thread about my LSA swap but i know there are several but if you are interested i'll post😀. I have a 260Z bought three years ago, drove it with the Inline 6 for two years. I started with the brakes as they were not so good so to speak..... I bought Porsche boxter S calipers from a 2016 and discs from a BMW F30 335i made new brackets and twin master cylinders. At first i made new hubs in aluminium but have now changed to hubs from a S13 as i had some flex that made my brakes a bit unpredictable 😱.

Hello, I'm abut to get me a radiator as well, those measurements on the c7, are they with or without tank? It also looks that the condenser is included in most sales(a good thing). It's a -74 260 I'm in sweden so the range of radiators for a decent cost is limited and shipping and customs fees will eat some money..... Thanks Christian

Are they compatible with GM lan? I have a GM performance harness for my LSA and it would be nice if they are. /Christian

👍Thanks!