clint78z
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Posts posted by clint78z
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I would like to start a thread giving engine building secrets. I don't know that many but I am alway willing to learn.
Heres a couple I know
1) Magnuflux rods to check for cracks, removing casting marks, and shot peen for strength.
2) Smooth rough casting in oil pan area, some builders paint this area
3) Retap all holes and light oil before installing bolts.
4) Chamfer all drain, and oil galleries
5)Properly gap all rings.
6) Use plastic guage on bearings to ensure proper clearance and torqing.
7) Radius sharp edges in combustion chamber to reduce detonation.
8) When porting heads, focus on the 90 degree turn and making it smooth.
Perhaps others have some good tips, I am not really clear on the dynamic balancing procedure.
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Make sure you didn't mix up the thermotime wire and temp wire up. This will cause a rich condition, I did this on my first rebuild. I switched them and it ran like a champ.
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Keep us updated I have an 89 pathfinder with a VG30E, and may stuff a 88 VG30et motor in it. The biggest problem I see is the low slung turbo, right where the motor mount is.
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I had a weird experience with a motor I was sure it was a rod knock. It banged so damned hard I was sure it spun a bearing. It turned out to be the valve train needed shims in a ford festiva. I was completely shocked
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I happened to come across this post of a guy going twin turbo on his Q45. I know of others that had intrest in the VH45 so I posted this. Looks to be one wild ride if it gets finished.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?postid=297266#post297266
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Yes several benifits of Ti with sodium filled
1. Lighter means quicker response, lower spring pressure needed for high rpm which gives more hp.
2. Stronger has a higher yield strength and won't deform as easliy
3. Sodium allows better heat transfer, reducing chances of preigntion from hot valve face, and more consistent seating angle due to less thermal expansion.
A solid Ti valve will be stronger, but will be heavier and won't transfer heat as well.
Nice valve mod there Scottie, looks like the spring couldn't quite close it in time. I bet it was fun just before though
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Somone has a guauge fetish ??
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That Jag is a work of art, it takes allot of talent to improve an XKE that much. BOSS 429
Oh mY !! -
Do you know if the 2+2 cage allows the use of the rear seat. Not that I am complaining it seems odd that they would make one for my car. I didn't see an email address so I could ask, seems strange they didn't have it in the customer service.
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While alot of the cars you stated I absolutely drool over. While these tasty parts and pieces that I could not afford have big potential, they don't nessarly kick out the HP. The facts are in the dyno sheets, and time slips (preferrably both to give a good indication). For example I know a decent amount about EFI. However if I bought everything TimZ and duplicated it, then was told tune tune it myself. The outcome would probably that I would probably get less power or might even end up with a blown motor. It takes quite a bit of knowledge and time to tune a motor on the edge. Hopfully one day I will get there.
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I like this one for the Miata, it allows you to have a cable for extra security and ease of use.
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"You going to bark all day little doggie, or are you going to bite !!" You gotta smack em around a bit before they will race
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I would go six throttle bodies feeding 2 cylinders each, and use SDS injection. It would look slick be low profile and really wake that Jag up. Personally I hate messing with one Holley, a whole bunch would be a nightmare.
The EFI on the Jag was a downfall one a great engine.
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When Scottie says the 3.54 is better, he is talking about a turbo Z. The problem with going with a 3.9 or 4.11 is that the engine is not loaded down in first and a bit in second gear. The turbo doesn't get enough exhaust gas to give you any appreciable boost. The only car this doesn't apply to is 4wd turbo cars like a talon. They use a ridiculously low first gear and use their traction advantage which is good for killer race starts. However if you don't abuse it, you are left with a big soggy sandwich in first.
It is crucial to match gearing on a turbo car, it is a balancing act. The 3.54 and 3.7LSD are probably the best route.
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Check the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator, they usually split. It will cause the engine to run rich under light cruising conditions.
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Scottie don't worry about the fitting problems on the piping, the NPR tip save me lots of $$. Yes there are still people that complain about free info, go figure. Even though I don't plan the IRS swap I still like reading the articles, very ingenious and well documented. Reminds me of my favorite show TRUCKS, very intresting modifications !!
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Here is a pic of me at one of the biggest moments of my life. I could have easily gone another 10km after my first marathon. I was flying at the finish. Next time it will say 3:45 on that board !!
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Ah the other toys I could have, I used to be a big ford fan.
66 AC cobra
Eleanor one of the freshest updates in a while
70 Mach 1 Boss 429
50's lead sled
I do like all the other brands as well 70 charger, the goat, big ole chevelle. Silly me I had to get the Zed right away, it spoiled me cause alot of the other don't handle that well but I still love them.
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Yes you need a spacer and 3 metalic gaskets, and some longer studs. You may have to plug the PCV valve hole depending on what intake manifold you have.
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Wiring problems can be hard to track down, use a multimeter and a check list of every last thing you can find. Measure main power look for changing voltages, test grounds, test continuity on wires. From a smoked coil it sounds like you have power running to the coil where it shouldn't be. Go to a junkyard and find a GM V6 alot of them have coilpacks and you can probably get them for cheap.
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On a turbo car I would say yes go for it, I don't know if you will get a huge jump from the 2 1/2" MB system. it's usually the big crush turns that hurt the turbo spoolup big time. It has been proven that for angles under 30 degrees you really don't benifit too much from a mandrel, because of welding spatter inside. My performance probably dropped a tad, I drove it with straight 3" dump pipe. It sounded real growly and the turbo whistled like a jet plane (I miss the turbo sound). It is now very deep and smooth sophisticated sound. I can remove discs from the trapp to quiet things down for long trips very nice on the ears
Next year it might get a nice scottie down pipe and ceramic coating on the manifold. PS my HI-temp paint lasted .02 seconds
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Well I am very pleased what I got for the $$ I spent only $2 over there $300cdn quote. They used slip joint then a press bent 20deg then straight along the tunnel a clamp then ultra close on control arm then 2 mandrel 90's to my trapp with a good mounting point. It does sound pretty good with no baffles and no droning. I am sure I will be pleased with the baffles back on, too bad it won't sound like the old N/A with the trapp that had a nice rasp like alcholol.
Front end alignment tommorow, then I can enjoy the corners.
Oh mY !!
Next year it might get a nice scottie down pipe and ceramic coating on the manifold. 
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