clint78z
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Posts posted by clint78z
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Hmm I generally prefer a little more displacement for some low end grunt. The 2.4l has one of best low end torque of any 4cyl I have driven. Now from what I have read the SR20det has amazing low end torque for a 2.0l, and you would surely make it up in top end.
My pick would be an SR20DET, you give up a bit in torque, however the you gain so much up top. Plus who can leave one of these motors stock, 350hp is so easy. The fuel system and all the mods that need to be done to the KA24.
A stock SR20det against an turbo KA24, the KA will be more impressive. However the SR20det will be more reliable and can give you more power for less $$ in the long run. Shop around and make sure you get all EFI it can add up.
[ October 05, 2001: Message edited by: clint78z ]
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The biggest problem is the turbo is right where the motor mount is, mabey flipping the manifold upside down might get it out of the way?? Let us know, I have thought of that one before. I want to get a turbo diesel for better milage.
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Chassis squat can be bad on IRS, especially on the zcar design. The rear tire basically swings in a circular pattern on the control arm. When the rear end squats the bottom outside edge is no longer in contact with the ground and you loose traction. A stiffer rear spring will keep the tires more parallel.
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Here is my understanding about tire sizes. Yes same wieght and pressure same contact area. Except that the wider tire has a wide contact patch, which will not deform in cornering as much. The wider tire is actually a softer compound in the same type of tire.
For example a 235 Z rated tire is softer than the 205 Z rated tire. The bigger tire can handle the heat better, so they make it softer.
The main advantage I am told is cornering since the wider patch resists tread deformation better.
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My friend Bill who I always chat with about tuning the DFI got his car in Hot Rod. He is a pretty much a genious when it comes to tuning and has a very scientific way of doing things. His car is extremely tasteful, and that intake, drool !!
http://www.hotrod.com/editorial/article.jsp?viewtype=text&id=42798[ October 02, 2001: Message edited by: clint78z ]
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Well on the weekend things were going good I got the intake manifold put back on with the new gasket. I fired the car up and it idled at the normal 1000rpm
Then I backed it out of the garage, it ran low on power. It started bucking and chucking then it died. I restarted, and it died again. At this point I was really past the point of amusement. It was dead at the end of our 1/4mile lane. I had to do a one man recovery with the Pathfinder, that was interesting. I plug in the laptop and mess with fuel setting, a couple of puts but nothing. So I screamed at it, nothing again. So I left, if the darn thing wasn't going to play nice. Next morning I start rechecking connections, and next step is to pull the fuel rail and check the spray pattern. Then I hear from my dad "Do you have gas in it" DOH. It's funny how no matter how you set up a motor, if you don't have gas in it, it won't run. The motor purrs like a kitten at idle, I am very happy so far. Now I just have to treat it nice until it is broken in.
Next week I should be road bound, and ready for 3" exhaust, and a front end alignment.
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Yes lots of things to consider when buying a clutch, over do it and you will have chatter and unsmooth engagment, or worse a pile of tranny parts like alot of DSM owners.
The AWD talon is probably hardest on the clutch because of the following.
1) Major traction with AWD
2) Small surface area of clutch
3) High RPM launches used to prevent bogging
4) Around double the power of what it is designed to do can be easily produced.
I am surpised not to hear about more clutch explosions in the DSM world.
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Yes heat transfer with low pressure drop is the key. This issue is sometimes forgotten as well. Think of an intercooler as a heat sink, you pin it for 10 sec and turbo heats the air. The temp of the metal is around ambient and the air warms the metal up. If you have a big intercooler with lots of metal it will not heat up as fast and therfore keep air temp lower.
Lesson big is good in general, there are other little tricks to make it work better.
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TimZ did you upgrade from the 60-1 to the t64, wasn't sure you were running that big. In the beginning I was reluctant to choose anything that big. Doesn't the compressor maps run on the wrong side of the surge line. I heard that could be bad for the compressor with a cavitation thing going on. Now my understanding about choosing a big turbo is changing, you can go big if you are very careful choosing A/R, wastegate ...
Always learning something new about turbos.
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Not sure if they went with thinner cylinder walls in the z32 motors. I think the major problem lies within the cooling system in the z32. The motor is packed too tight with insuffecient cooling from the radiator. I know the bottom end is almost bulletproof with the crank girdle and piston oil sqirters. Remember when you try to get this big of HP out of a small motor, tuning errors yeild a toasted engine. The Supra TT motor is a little more forgiving.
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The 54 is an awsome turbo probably my first choice for a street/strip combo. It has a very broad range of effeciency, you could probably run in the 12's. I got the 57mm which gives up a little of that down low flow punch, but will take me about as fast as I want to go and retain a potent street car. This is theoritical from the maps and calculations, dyno and street time tells whats what.
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I guess I should expand on potent street car, TimZ running his 60-1 is definately very potent. I meant for a stock block L28et with good fuel and a decent intercooler. Not all of will run 26psi
. It's a pretty good fisher price starter turbo for me . It sure would be nice to be able to play arounf with the different housings and wheels. Perhaps I am splitting hairs between the 54 and the 57 series, who knows?? I have seen several well done 240sx's done with these turbos, boost response is reported as awsome. It is too bad Scottie didn't get more runs in with the hybrid before the motor died. I love his straight shooting articles, most magazines I take with a grain of salt. My turbo is T3/T04E-57mm Stage III turbine with .63 A/R
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quote:
Originally posted by TimZ:The base fuel map needs two points, not three. Even if it was three, how much simpler does it need to be? We are down to 'idle jet', 'main jet' in the non-EFI equivalents here. I just don't see how this is a major concern.As far as the other required settings, as I have stated NUMEROUS times before (frustration setting in), the basic settings needed to make the cars run are fairly similar across the board. What is it really that makes everyone think that this is harder to learn? Admittedly, I don't have tons of experience with the other systems, but I have yet to see anything that makes me beleive that the others are appreciably easier.A good argument for the more precise timing control is that it allows much better control when the engine is changing speeds rapidly (as high power engines tend to do).As far as the WinTEC software being better of worse than the the DOS based stuff, I haven't actually seen any credible evidence one way or the other. Of the people that are actually using it, I have not seen alot of evidence to support this. As far as I'm concerned, the jury is still out on this one.I am currently getting ready to convert over to the WinTEC2 chip, and will report back if I find problems. I will say that I'm not terribly impressed with the Windows software, but my main complaint so far is that it's useability is not as much better as I would expect when going from the DOS-based software to the Windows environment.
Mabey I proved my own point with my stupidity, talk with a person who has sucessfully tuned the system.
TimZ I though the base fuel consisted of setting IOT, TOG, then a VE table to make base fuel calculations. Then there is TPS and Map change enrichment on top of that. Could you briefly describe how you set up a fuel map on a Tec II.
On the old Accel DFI it has a base fuel map rpm vs load. Basically you get info from the O2 sensor if you are lean or rich at a certain load and rpm point, then you simply add or remove fuel at these points. A dyno certainly helps to tune this.
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I have a 300zxt Throttle Body with no idle bypass. The accel DFI is hooked to a map sensor which is referenced off of the intake manifold. When I pull off the brake booster hose rpm skyrocket, because the map sensor see less vacuum and compensates by adding more fuel. I have used carb cleaner on other vehicles, I have also heard of an unlit propane torch. It roars at 1500rpm but does it very smoothly, let the tracking begin.
Thanx for the info.
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I know there is a vacuum leak because it will idle at at 1500rpm with the throttle blade closed. So that means that I have a leak in the manifold air is getting in. The extra air is compensated with fuel because the MAP sensor is referenced off the intake manifold.
I need to get an exhaust system to quiet things down so I can trace the leak.
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The thing I would do is try to get every manual for these units, most of them are available on line. Most well tuned systems will run very close to each other as far as performance if tuned correctly. Big key options is wideband 02 and coilpacks.
TecII is very powerful with excellent datalogging. A slick piece if you have been tuning EFI for a long time. It is very hard to learn there are 3 settings alone just to set up the base fuel map. Software is expensive. Very precise timing control, a little overkill if you ask me.
The new DFI is very impressive, datalogging appears very good, and has a nice gauge mode.
Many people have fancy features on these that they never use. Decide what you need for a bare minimum for options and controls. Then pick the cheapest, that has a nice software interface which makes it easiest to tune.
Personally I don't think you could go wrong with a TecII, DFI, Felpro, Haltech.
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Found another decent comparo here
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I am currently trying to trace any vacuum leaks on my L28et. I have a boost/vacuum gauge hooked up, and it currently produces 12" of vacuum at idle. I know I have a vacuum leak because it idles too high on the map referenced system. Can you guys tell me what you get for vacuum at idle??
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Sometimes the Hazard switch goes wonky and only flashes one side. Simply pull apart with 4 screws, take contact cleaner and clean the corrosion off. Then bends the contact tabs down, and clean with sand paper. Next pinch the pivot dodad in the center to tighten it up . Voila a new hazard switch.
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Mabey he is going to do a custom mustang rack like alot of rodders do. Reminds me of a Boss 429 in a Mach 1. Keep us posted on this one.
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Lookie here a 12sec Q45, with a whiff of NOS http://www.nissaninfiniticlub.com/members/articles/badq45article.htm
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Good point about the large wastgate trick, yes it is a trend that has started taking place. Start with a big compressor, and use a small A/R ratio to get it spooled up quickly, then use a big wastegate to dump the rest of the extra gas so you don't killed on the topend with excess backpressure.
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Got a set of Jacobs for $63 for custom fit ones. The terminals look better and boots are bonded on. They have a lifetime warranty, the MSD ones were double the price.
Then I backed it out of the garage, it ran low on power. It started bucking and chucking then it died. I restarted, and it died again. 
. It sure would be nice to be able to play arounf with the different housings and wheels. Perhaps I am splitting hairs between the 54 and the 57 series, who knows?? I have seen several well done 240sx's done with these turbos, boost response is reported as awsome. It is too bad Scottie didn't get more runs in with the hybrid before the motor died. I love his straight shooting articles, most magazines I take with a grain of salt.
3" exhaust
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
Well I took my car into the muffler shop, I have seen some of the work from this place and it is above average. They aren't afraid to redo something if you are not happy. From the 3" downpipe they are doing a 30deg mandrel with a flange. Then 2 little press bends, 10 deg. Back to two 90 deg mandrels to my 3" Stainless Supertrapp.
Hopefulley they do a good job, and don't drag race my car. The one guy noticed a bit of whistle from the turbo, rev limiter is set for 3800rpm on the DFI no fun for him
