clint78z
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Posts posted by clint78z
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I went to Vegas and saw the Imperial car musuem. I was fortunate enough to take some picture I thought might intrest you boys. It's the Shelby Z. I have to say it looks 1000 times than the pictures, the hood reminds me of the of Terry O's car. Very tasty here's the link
http://www.geocities.com/clint78z/vegas/shelb1.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/clint78z/vegas/shelb2.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/clint78z/vegas/shelb3.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/clint78z/vegas/shelb4.jpg
Damn geocities is pissing me off, I know html and have done lot's of linking. There site is the biggest pain in the rear, I know they are under that directoy. If you cut and paste they work, I am at a loss why the url won't even link.
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Oh the car ford should have built TASTY !!
http://www.theautochannel.com/publications/magazines/sci/dec-jan-99/pg64.frame
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Not to side with Alamo or Tim78zt here just wanted put down a few facts about what is going on here.
This is an engine that has been built with double the stock boost. This engine can take that even more, however if something is a bit off it usually ends with blown pistons which is a definate risk the owner must take. Mabey there tuning isn't so great, or mabey something else failed on the car it's hard to tell. At least they have made the effort to take some responsibilty for it which is probably more than half the shops would do. The only work that I know I am confident in what I am getting, is my own
Hope you have more luck with the new engine, keep us posted.
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You can still test alot of things on the truck much like was it carbed. First step are you sure you have proper switched and constant power to the ECU and it is grounded properly. Next when you turn the switch on does the fuel pump turn on ?? Pull a plug out and lay it next to the engine block, it should snap a spark across. If not are the plugs wet with fuel ??
Take one thing at a time testing easiest to hardest and eliminate it as a problem. A diagram of all the sensors helps, ooh look what I have poof
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1553/eccs3.jpg
Engine still needs the basics air, fuel, spark
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Likely the filter bypass had nothing to do with the engine failure. How it works is engine oil comes into the filter thorugh the medium back to the oiling system. The bypass has no function unless you do not change your filter and it becomes blocked, this ball and spring bypasses the filter, and makes sure you engine has sufficent oil eventhough it is not filtered.
SO UNLESS YOU DIDN'T CHANGE YOU FILTER OFTEN ENOUGH, THE BYPASS HAS NO EFFECT
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The lights don't just light up when you have the power on, they are meant to give diagnostic codes when running rev it up to like 1800rpm or something for a couple of minutes then they begin to flash.
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My first recomendation is to do a big search in the archives here, find a combo that someone else has that has the kind of power you want. Then take note of what they run for turbo, intercooler ....
I am not going to come right out and say that a hybrid 60-1 isn't going to get you what you want. I have never tried that and simply haven't proved that. IMHO it doesn't seem like the greatest combo here's my lazer guided guess.
The 60-1 compressor isn't as effecient as some of the others down low, but has good horsepower potential. If you put on the smaller turbine you will limit hp potential because there will be too much backpressure on the exhaust side.
So either stay with the hybrid and choose a more effecient wheel down low, or make that jump to full T04 with the 60-1.
Please jump in if I am wrong here, I think that's what everyone is gettting at
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This can be a confusing subject, turbo designation refers mainly to the compressor side.
When I refer to my hybrid turbo it is a T3/T04E-57mm with stage III turbine with .63 a/r. This means the turbine is a T3 design which is smaller, is mated with the larger T04E compressor series with a 57mm compressor wheel in it.
You can have a non Hybrid T04E and T04B, which uses the larger T04 turbine. These are usual O, P trim.
When every one here recomends the 60-1, they are recomending the non the full T4 not a hybrid. T04B 60-1 with probably a Ptrim turbine. Clear as mud ??
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Everyone take a chill pill, mabey some bran in the diet wouldn't hurt.
It's good to keep an open mind, because there is some good info here. Just because ppl's views differ, or somone said something that you didn't like doesn't mean you still can't learn things from them. I personally have learn things from a person who I would call a moron at work, hey they have to have some skill to survive. Hopefully it can be swept under the carpet, and go back to warm & fuzzy.Yes I think the hybrid T3/T04E can be done to make some very decent numbers 380hp is probably the limit. It will spool real nice and make a wonderful street car that is impressive.
However if you have some $$$$ burning a hole in your pocket and want more the 60-1 gives you more room. However just the turbo isn't going to get you there, forged pistons, cam, arp studs.... It won't spool as fast, but hell you are getting an extra 60hp which most ppl don't care. It's still wicked fast on the street, just a smidge more lag.
Personally I don't have budget to use a 60-1, so an nice little hybrid T3/T04e-57mm is more suited to my package. I am screwed if I want that extra power, and will have to buy a new turbo if it ever comes to that point.
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The site is beautiful, and so easy to use it almost snatches the wallet out of my back pocket
I have to upgrade just small peaces at a time to control the budget. If you are looking for other little projects, I definately think there is call for a diff mount solution (mabey something simular to Scotties solution). Sub frame connectors that tie the front to the rear of the car, with points to tie in a cage and 5 point harness, and other structural mods to get around weak points such as the front frame rail to sway bar (which usually rots out and leaves sway bar hanging)
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That is pretty arrogant thing to say it is impossible to happen. I forgot that is a Z31 ecu non turbo he uses, mabey go to Z31.com and try and find the trouble codes for that ECU.
Not to take credit away from the time JWT has put into cracking the ECU, but it isn't rocket science. The stock ECU still works exactly like the stock ECU. He simply modifies the values in the registers on the chip which hold information for fuel and ignition settings. By adding on another board he is simply adding more space to store his values and gives better resolution.
If the crank angle sensor in you distributor starts to go south, it will still give you the same trouble codes as a stock Z31 non turbo. The only difference now is mabey his programming could be wrong in the ignition map and will give you a faulty ignition error.
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Calgary would be fun, the have a killer track out there. I am just getting to the point where I might trust it on a long trip. I had injectors failing and ignition issues. I would have to give it a good run through before, new upgrades means new surprises. Going to have to keep the boost down, it only has a stock clutch. I will post more when spring rolls around.
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Well first you should record the blinking lights, then go to an ECCS manual and find the trouble code. Either your harness and senors are failing or JWT got his programming wrong and is giving an out of range error.
You won't get power up that high rpm unless you change the cam or do some head work.
As far as an opinion on JWT setup it's a mixed bag. It will get you a very well behaved 350hp out of the box. If you are happy with just that it's not a bad way to go. If you goals get big and package changes and you want to extract maximum out of your combination, be prepared for alot of time on the phone and a poking with a stick in the dark to get that extra power. This is when the programmable makes more sense. I live far from a dyno, so I need something I can tune myself.
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A cruise would be nice, I should be down there with my toy for an adventure race or two. I got to get it to a dyno and do some tuning probably in Calgary.
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I know everyone in these types of classes has used webbers for all out power. It would be intresting to see the same engine with a Tec-II and individual throttle bodies. Typically carbs are about equal on top-end, but for mid range and tip in throttle are EFI is far superior and would not have that huge dip. Added benifits are excellent temp compensation, adjustable igntion map, increased mileage. You could even do up a second set of maps to allow pump gas mabey??
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Perhaps you have heard of IRL, guess what it's got a 4.5l V8 n/a. The name eddie cheever ring a bell??
The 4.5l is a much better motor but parts are expensive and it doesn't fit as easily. The VH45 has a more low end grunt than the VH41 despite identical hp figures.
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The new DFI is alot better than the older version. I downloaded their trial software it is fairly easy to use and understand. The new datalogging is a welcome. It does have alot of flash to it, but isn't much more than the TEC II. Wideband is a nice option and certainly reduces tuning time and mistakes. I really think that most ppl don't have the use for sequential EFI. Usually the major benifit is lower emmisions and a tad better milage. There are another stack of variables to time it correctly to take full use of sequential injection.
I think the only big benifits these systems have over the SDS is datalogging and Wideband O2. Personally you are only looking for 300hp you can easily get away with the SDS and have better drivablity than you old ZXT EFI.
The Holley Commander has got some nice features including datalogging, I think it is in the same price range as the SDS.
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The calculators are decent to help visualize the concept of picking a turbo.
For question is for you what are you going to do with the car. How much time is going to be spent on the street. How much $$ are you willing to spend on it.
My package is intended to be fairly low budget with a few more dollars spent in key places.
280zxt junkyard motor
Isuzu NPR intercooler great value for price
370cc SVO injectors
Accel DFI used
T3/T04E - 57mm trim with stage III turbine .68 a/r
Larger fuel pump
Unless you plan on going with forged pistons, o-ringing the block, getting the head ported with a new cam I wouldn't recomend going to the 60-1 turbo.
The key to building a turbo car is knowing the limits of each component and selecting the proper thing. Sure I could have bought a spearco intercooler but I couldn't take advantage of it unless I was willing to switch to forged pistons to run higher boost reliably. I would recommend you do a search in here for 450cc Mercedes injectors.
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Agreed DFI support is not so good compared to the others, and there isn't a huge amount of info on the web. Strange because so many 80-90's cars were using them, practically a standard for a chev car. My old DFI has wideband capability, and sorta datalogging.
The SDS doesn't have quite the fuel control the DFI does. But hey you might not notice that. If you don't get datalogging I will caution you driving fast and trying to look at a screen is very dangerous, do that in an isolated area. I like the Haltec for price and what you get.
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There appears to be some confusion on knock detection on engines.
First I will start with the components. A "Knock sensor" is a piezoelectric microphone screwed into the side of the block. This mic takes ALL NOISES from the engine and transfers it to a varing voltage pattern that looks exactly the same as the noise frequency. Now some of this noise or frequency is normal from engine mechanicals. This varing voltage from the knock sensor goes to a Filter which is in a module or built into the ECU. The filter is responsible for detecting if the voltage pattern is knock or normal engine noise. If it is knock the ecu pulls timing out.
This works well on an original ECU and Knock system. If I try and use a knock filter from a chev 350 on my L6 it will not detect it properly, either false alarm or not detect it. If I put a TEC II and a knock sensor, I am left guessing what noise is knock and what isn't.
My main point is unless you have a knock sensor and filter design for that specific engine it is a bit of a poke in the dark. Do not fully rely on these sensors to keep you turbo engine from exploding. TUNE WISELY
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I didn't like the 350z when it first came out, however it kinda grows on you after a while. Our dealership in Canada sells a 350z for 42k with leather seats not the premium touring. That works out to 26k us without taxes. It is on par with camaro and cobra. It is not meant to hang with the stang at the dragstrip, just as the mustang isn't exactly cut for the track.
I think 2700lbs should have been target weight, fix the nose and butt on it and we have a winner. Looking at the undercariage quite a bit of weight went into the chassis for stiffness. I think it bulked up other components for strength and durability, because the aftermarket guy are going to beat on this thing big time. In all fairness how would you make it lighter with still retaining the V6?? The panoz a simular type car with the 4.6l weighs 3200lbs. The elise is wicked not exactly practicle or in anyones price range.
Not a huge fan of the Z06 looks, but if you put that car on track look out. Very good value for what you get.
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Sorry to burst you bubble but the L6 will not make peak power past 6200rpm the cam won't let it. I would recommend trying to make the L6 make peak power at 7400rpm it will be high strung grenade. The V1 is a decent street/strip turbo I would recomend a .68 a/r with this one. It is not worth going .82 on this smaller turbo. If you want more power go T60-1, make sure you have a big intercooler, engine managment, and upgraded internals to make use of this turbo.
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As with most turbo motor power production know you limits. The weak link in Hondas are weak rods, they make them so thin to reduce reciprocating mass. I think 250hp is absolute max and they fold faster than Superman on laundry day
Should be a fun go, njoy
L6 Dampner Problem -- HELP
in 6 Cylinder Z Forums
Posted
Agreed it is very irresponsible to run a solid crank pulley, I seriously doubt that it would provide any benifit in power. To describe what is going on here to others, I will give an example.
Any crankshaft has a given mass and length. The type of metal and mass have certain resonant frequencies say 1mhz and 5mhz (I am making this up). So if you had a loud stereo and played either of these frequencies the crank would start to dance or vibrate. Now when revving your engine at say 3500rpm and 7500rpm it hits these frequencies. You crank starts to dance by itself, this will try and twist your crank like a pretzel. The longer the crank is the more twisting action. It's like the pictures dancing on your wall if you turn your stereo way up.
The solution is to use a vibration damper, this attaches the crank on one end to a outer ring with a weight on the outside. When the nasty little vibration occurs at the magical rpm, the rubber ring twists and absorbs some of that twisting vibration. So it is key to have that good rubber ring, it will save you crank from twisting itself in half.
This is the main factor that limits the L6 rpm capabilities, not valve float or piston slap.