clint78z
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Posts posted by clint78z
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Doesn't classicdatsun sell those?? The same people that gave us the great deal on the fender flair group buy??
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I have always been a huge admirer of Chip Foose, he is amazing to watch. He can make colors work that I would never pick. His designs have such proportion and flow, many very expensive rods don't cut the mustard with me.
The grand master rod here takes my breath away. The details like the brake master cylinder and air scoop are stunning. The integration of body to frame is outstanding. This car blew my mind, doesn't look like much from the first snapshot, so understated to begin with then it blows you away.
http://www.wallesdator.com/Foose%20design/Grand%20Master/Page1/Grand%20Master%20page1.htm
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I would definately try tweak the TPS more since it dictates the low end fueling. Check for small vacuum leaks, they can reak havoc with light load. Keep at it !!
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This is one tasty little cobra, not a bad replacement engine if you ask me.
http://www.tomyang.net/cars/ferrari.html?http://www.tomyang.net/cars/ferrari247.htm
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I have really enjoyed reading this website, it show tons of detail on the old race cars. Wish I could help out on these sweet projects.
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SInce you run the 300zx ecu, I would check to see if you are running enough ignition advance at lower rpms. The older L head really benifits from quite a bit of advance because is doesn't have the newer fast burn chamber like newer cars. An A/F ratio would be helpful on the graph as well !!
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Yah !! Glad to hear that the problem has been solved.
Scottie had a good grasp on his wiring, it was solid install to begin with. Putting the battery in the trunk can cause small problems eventhough he did use large power cables. The battery itself acts like a buffer, it smooths out AC ripples from the alternator, and buffers momentary spikes due to high load demand like the taurus fan.
Clean your battery once a year at least with baking soda, and use dielectric greas on the terminals. This will cut down on corrosion, and give you full voltage.
Happy Trails !!
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Well it looks like I am getting boned for the second time around on my 280z. Last year it got ran into by an person who was at fault. It did some frame damage at the front, I didn't have time for it to get fixed. Now they wanna write my car off and it has all the turbo goodies, hybrid turbo, NPR intercooler, Aftermarket efi. The insurance guys really try and screw you around on older vehicles. ALL that hard work, I pretty choked. Not sure what is going to happen??
If anyone has a nice 240-280z shell, I will give a real good home. I need something with very little rust.
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Seperate and eliminate are the keys to tracing problems.
You have 3 systems you are dealing with, fan, alternator, ECU.
First what I would do is start with the easiest thing to check the easiest things first. Check battery voltage, then check voltage output at alternator, make sure they are within 0.2v.
Temporarly disconnect the whole fan from wiring harness. With the car started jumper fan directly to battery with car running, does it kill the motor YES or NO. If NO there is problems in your fan wiring. If you have a voltmeter on the battery see how much voltage drops when fan is engaged. If YES there are problems in charging or ECU wiring.
Many times I will trace a problem from both sides starting at the battery. Narrow it to which part of the wiring is suspect.
Another thing you might try is to jumper a second battery in parallel with big jumper cables. If the dying engine is caused by a voltage drop, the second batter will reduce the voltage drop because it can now kick out twice the current.
Keep at it and be mythotical in checking, don't use the voltmeter like a white cane !!
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Flux capacitor, that's a classic!! Actually it kinda describes what it does. It buffers wild fluctuations in the supply line. Think of your fan as the cookie monster, he has to eat so many cookies or he gets angry. The current draw is like a row of cookies going to him. If he goes on an eating binge at first he will without cookies for a while. An inline capacitor is like a big cookie jar that he is allowed to eat of directly at first and is constantly filled up.
Sorry for the kiddie analogy, but I like the cookie monster !!
Anyhow be sure to hook it up correctly, "don't let the smoke out". Some have polarity and some don't. Go to a specialty electronics store they should be able to help you out. Sometimes big capacitors can be found dirt cheap at an army surplus store.
I would recomend putting a clip on amp guage to the circuit and a voltmeter. Analyze the circuit and see what course of action should be taken. Draw a diagram of battery, alternator, fan, ecu. List voltages before and after at each one of the components.
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Sounds like you have the electrical spot on, your total electrical current is approaching the maximum capacity of the alternator. A clip on ammeter may help diagnose things. Your high speed 60a fan speed is a continous rating ?? Most time on startup there is no reverse EMF caused by the spinning motor. Most of the time startup amperages can be as much as three times the current of a normal running fan motor. Most of the time this isn't a problem lights will go dim, but electronics can act funny when getting a low voltage.
I would recheck the voltage regulator, dirty grounds. The physical size of the battery can act as a buffer to current flow spikes. Can you modify some of your IAC settings in the ECU, it should have a stall saver function. This will increase how fast the IAC reacts to a rpm drop at idle.
If all else fails an inline capacitor may solve your problems.
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Disable the coil and crank the engine over. If the plug is wet the injector is firing.
A more accurate test is to use an injector tester box and fuel pressure guage. The fuel pressure should drop the same for each injector.
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Recently I had a real bugger of a time on the 280z trying to bleed the brakes. I replaced the master cylinder, bench bled it (don't skip this). I still couldn't get them to pump up. I noticed small air bubbles in the front resovoir. This tipped me off the air was coming in the front brake somewhere. I used a hard line and squashed it off, I then screwed it into the master cylinder in the front port. Boom I had hard pedal. Then I screwed it into the drivers side just below the flex line, I had hard pedal still. That showed me that either the hard line to caliper or the caliper was leaking. I bent up a new hard line and brakes were fixed.
A minor crack in the flared end, almost impossible to detect.
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I got around to installing the fuel rail on the weekend, it's not 100% but have more parts to pickup. The injectors I got were 87-91 N/A injectors last numbers 2010, 460cc's. They are direct install to manifold with the rail, injector wiring ends must be resoldered to the end. The o-rings slid into the rail with an easy twisting action with silicone grease.
I didn't pipe dope the inlet and outlet fittings since the system is temporary until I pick up some more hose and adapters. The fittings leaked without sealent, so that definately a step you cannot skip.
Everything fit as advertised, soon I will have a nice leak free system. I am very pleased with the pallnet rail, it is as advertised.
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You may have a clogged check valve in the return line, make sure you get a vented gas cap as well.
Some good info at this website, part was pillaged from SDS website.
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Quite sure you are right the pintle caps are 9mm on the later RX7 ones I have. I will have to re-verify, but I think that is same is the stock Z ones.
Thanx a bunch !! C
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Thanks for clearing up a lot of questions, usually I wouldn't ask so many questions on a simple upgrade. However I am upgrading with your kit not only to increase output, but to eliminate a erratic problem I have currently. I want to get it 100% so I can elimante it as a problem and move on to further diagnosis.
I will keep everyone updated on how it goes !!
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I have the same rail just recieved with 460cc RX7, hope it goes fairly smoothly. Did you get new seals for the top of the injectors, seals get hard when they get old. One other question did you guy reuse the old plastic and metal holdowns from the z where it mates to the manifold?? I was told to leave pintle caps on and use the 280z seals.
I will probably use a micrometer when installing everything just to be safe.
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You are right most welds even by a novice should hold quite a heavy load. The only time I would be extra concerned about a sound weld is on a-arms or other things are a safety issue and are subjected to repeated loading.
Practice makes perfect, don't rush the prep work.
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Well' date=' yes and no. If proper preparation is made for GMAW welding then it will be just as strong as any other welding method. But, proper preparation for GMAW welding is not the same as proper preparation for SMAW. GMAW on steel sections thicker then 3/8" require a double V groove and U grooves are required on sections thicker then 1". Also, the type of spray transfer also affects penetration.
If the typical short circuit type transfer is used then penetration will be less then ideal in larger sections. If a globular, pulsed spray, or spray types of transfer is used deep penetration can be achieved and amp levels of 400 DCEP is possible.
In the structutural and pipe fitting classes and testing I saw at Lincoln Electric, GMAW was perfectly acceptable and was tested for.[/quote']
Good clarification johnc, I seen you have done this once or twice before. It is true that Mig (GMAW gas metal arc weld) can be used in certain structural purposes. I do qualify people on these pressure vessel welding proceedures. Even the good welders with stick SMAW have problems when it come to Mig root welds getting proper penatration. Yes we used short circuit and it's tricky.
In general I have found more nice looking mig welds that fail than stick. With stick if you do it wrong usually you burn through or it looks like crap. If this happens usually the person gouges it out and does it properly.
For a proper weld mig or stick the material should fail before the actual weld zone. Destructive testing is a good way to see if your welds are up to snuff.
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Part of my job is testing welders, coupon are are bent and stretched to failure. Mig will fail before proper stick weld every time. The mig just doesn't put in enough heat and fusion is not as solid. Grinding, fitup, and getting a proper root weld in there are keys to a good weld. In anything structural STICK WELD is the only thing allowed.
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I started road biking about 2 months ago, couple of gals training for Ironman invite me along to do some hills in the Kananaskis/ Banff area. Little did I know the hills was going be summiting the highest paved road in Canada. If I wasn't such good shape from running I would have had my *** kicked. I had an 8 speed carbon fiber bike set up for the flats, I was grinding so hard at the peak. 7km climb sux!! On the way down I had a blow out doing 65 kph, yikes. Saw a huge grizzly 25 feet from me, amazing animal. I didn't stop to take a picture, just pedalled faster.
I was addicted after that trip, a great day to be alive !!
16X8 Rewinds
in Non Tech Board
Posted
OOps they were panasports at Classic Datsun, bound to be more expensive than rewinds. The guys seem really nice there and service and shipping were outstanding. Not sure what they could do for a price on Panasports?? Mabey they would like to be a Konig dealer if someone asked ??
http://www.classicdatsun.com/new/240Z.html