clint78z
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Posts posted by clint78z
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I used to run it back when the web was mostly text based, I will give a shot again. I like alot of the privacy stuff, popup blocking, and the control seems really nice. It's not doing all this hidden stuff under my nose.
Thanx for the tip
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I am gathering a list of everything needed to install 17"x9" Cobra rims on my 280z , feel free to add to it. I have ZG flares and want the rears to fit close to flush, I have stock springs as well. The old tires are shot and I don't want to spend half my money on 14's again.
1. 245/ 45/ 17 tires
2. 17x9 cobra R rims +24mm
3. 300zx 5 lug hub which push front rims out 20mm
4. Dust seal 300zx hub
5. Spacer for front rotor
6. Rear wheel spacer 1.25" ??
7. Studs
Now as far as brakes money is tight so I will upgrade to what I want later on. What can I get away with as a minimum or have a decent upgrade for a few hundred more?? Is there anything I am missing ??
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I can't see them either I use IE6 and have a firewall, usually not a problem except for the photo album here. ANy suggestions ??
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I had the plaesure of seing a virage in person, I even liked it better than the 360 modena park beside it. If you are really hot into recreating peaces from another car go to the need for speed website. You can download the Aston Vanquish in 3d model. In there are 2 programs that will extract the 3d info and allow you to take dimensions from the models. It is not dead accurate but ballpark. One guy with a fiero chassis did an entire Lambo replica this way.
http://www.nfscars.net/car.php?ID=4566
Then browse around and pick a program in the site to model it there are many. Once you are done your design send it to me and I will chop it in sections in autocad and send you some drawings
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Since we have alot of talented blokes here with fiberglass I am proposing that we update the hybridz front end. I have been playing with photoshop lately. I fell in love with the Aston Martin Vanquish sexiest design in thirty years IMHO. So if you relly like it cast your vote and mabey someone will see the demand to build it. I will donate my autocad skill to designing the buck if it goes into production.
sorry you have to copy and paste link "geocities is a pain in the ass"
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Be nice some ppl haven't read as much on the subject, you don't need to if you have a good turbo builder.
Here are some basics of turbo I will give the T3/T04E-57mm stage III .63 a/r. This is a hybrid turbo with two different families mixed.
The turbo is divided into two sides
1) compressor
a)T04E is the family it has a certain set of wheels and housings
b)The bigger the wheel the longer the spoolup (however small changes have small effects)
c)The main selection of this side is to match it to your motor combination. [/b]The wheels heat the air differently, you must pick the one that heats the air the least for your intended use
2) Turbine
a)The stage III is a certain wheel size with a certain number of blades, the smaller this wheel the faster it spools up in general.
A/R stands for area to radius ratio (don't worry if you don't understand). Think of it as a straw blowing at a pin wheel, the smaller the A/R the smaller the straw. The small straw get speed up quickly, but you have to blow real hard to get the wheel really spinning and becomes a restriction. -
The tuning may be off on his car as well, I guess my point was that when the compressor wheel only changes a small amount in diameter it has less of an effect on spoolup.
The 57 is probably better off staying in the the stage III turbine because it doesn't have the flow capability of the 60 when you get 20+psi. You chose to trade a little spoolup time in order to keep the turbine from being a restriction at the top end.
These turbos all have good linear response not as fast as a T3, but not as much lag as a full T04.
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Saying the 57 is total crap, is unjustified. The 57 takes a smidge longer to spool than the 50 due to increased moment of inertia because of the larger diameter. A 60 will take just a touch longer.
If you had gone through calculating the load points for the L28 you will find that the 57 trim is more suited for L28 larger dispalcement motor. Using a 4400rpm point, the airflow lands directly in the center of the flow island on the compressor map at 15psi. The limitation is about 19psi before effeciency takes a nose dive. There is not a huge diffence between a 50 and a 57mm or 60mm for that matter. But the 57mm is a wonderful comprimise for a street car.
While the size of compressor wheel does have some effect on spoolup, it is mainly the configuration of the turbine that determines spoolup time The manufacturer went too big with the turbine size, giving you poor spoolup. Simply swap for a stage III, you .63 a/r is good.
BTW I have a T04e/T3 with a 57mm wheel with stage III turbine .63 a/r and have no complaints about lag.
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For those who want to know more on ATTESA and how alot of the AWD system work go to the link below. It shouldn't be too difflicult to figure out how the pump operates. It is probably variable voltage, 4-20ma control circuit, or mabey even variable frequency. If James was paying attention during his controls class instead of making paper airplanes he should have no problems
http://www.geocities.com/gkurka2001/CarTech/tech_traction_4wd_2.htm
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My first startup this summer I had a poor idle, simular situation. A loud ticking from one injector. Which ticked me off it was brand new, I took it for a drive down a bumpy dirt road and it ran normal again.
Good luck at the strip.
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More than likely the injector was not closeing properly leaking at idle, it causes rough idle and harder starts. My brother talon did this, it also would bleed down the fuel pressure on the guage after the car was shut off.
Good to hear it was cheap !!
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Yes we need to get to the bottom of this one, Tim78zt has had some bad luck. Thing is he really doesn't have it cranked up and has quality components. It's gotta be something simple, need a good turbo guru to go through the car and diagnose it. It is bound to save money and heartache in the ned.
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Yes it is possible under some circumstances
1) Hotter air conditions than on the dyno
2) Failed fuel pump
3) Failed injector
4) Loose distributor, too much timing advance
5) Carbon buildup causing detonation
6) Changed to hotter spark plugs
7) Bad batch of lower octane gas
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Yes they are cool cars, AWD is a big advantage in some areas. A very solid chassis, a good platform to build on.
My brother has an eagle talon, so I have some frame of reference. True they are capable of some lighting quick 60' times on street tires. But on the street it is not advisable to launch at 7000rpm, you will break expensive peaces. Getting a solid launch is tricky point between bogging and breaking the tranny. 0-60 most times is more like low sixes when driven like a sane person, still quite respectable.
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http://www.aa.washington.edu/courses/aa432/class_projects/colinsproject/colin.htm
A good article on carbon fiber molds ...
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Got a Wilwood proportioning valve off a friend. I want to install it in my 280 but I can't find any adapters for the friggin thing.
As far as I can tell I need a metric M10x 1.0 inverted flare female to 3/8" - 24 male on the valve. Local parts guys just give ne that blank stare (I am getting sick of that lately).
A bunch of guys said they got theirs from Napa, a Napa part number would sure help.
I live in Canada so buying little stuff from US is a pain in da butt.
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Cool email it to me, I would like to have a look at it. Probably put it on another layer of the existing drawing I have. It so fun working with 3d stuff isn't it. It makes redesigning things a snap. Too bad I couldn't just press a button and it would make all the parts for me
Keep it coming guys, the more we share the badder our zcars get.
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Super I forgot about the free drawing viewers, I haven't used them too much since I have had acess to Cad for so long.
Over time I will be adding stuff to the drawing, I only have acess to my car on weekends. Might seem boring for some, but others might find it very useful.
Thanx again !!!
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Okay I will email them to you, a couple of notes for ppl working on the drawings.
I am not sure how to keep the pictures linked under the drawing when emailing them, you might have to repaste and rescale them for the top piece where I traced out some of the drawing.
The floor boards aren't exact, I had problems reading some dimensions on the lower side view.
I also did some pics labelled screen of my autocad so others can get an idea of what's going on. I didn't actually take that long, I am by no means a 3d whiz I taught myself. Despite that it really didn't take too long to do this stuff. I can convert 2d to 3d for anyone who wants to add to it, and doesn't know 3d.
Just thought I would share all this info !! Please let me know anything you find wrong so I can correct it. Or any suggestions you might have.
Thanx for the hosting jimzdat 8) the email is on the way
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I thought that there is so many engineers on this site that it might be handy to have drawings of the zcar chassis.
I took and scanned the 280z coupe drawing from FSM. Then I took and pasted into AutoCad 2000. I then scaled the drawing up by the dimension given on the drawing. I then started laying out the chassis with the dimensions listed most of the drawing is fairly well scaled. It could be easily updated for a 240z as well.
WARNING some of the converted dimensions to imperial are wrong on the drawing itself from the book. The metric ones seem to be all correct.
I then used 3d solids to make up pparaskas famous sub frame connectors. I put in most of the key datum points on the chassis, traced the floor pan. I though it would be nice if we all worked little peaces of the drawing we could keep adding to it. That way it would make designing stuff so much easier for every one. CV shaft problems could be worked out, a new rear end, laying out that custom roll cage, testing for interference ...... the list is endless.
The drawing is 168kb, the scanned photo for the chassis is 1.6mb, and I had some other photos on the drawing mabey 200kb. If there is intrest mabey some of us can sort it out. I can email it some one if they would like to host it.
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There are some pretty sharp minds here, but they would all be guessing if this would work or not.
Any form of messing with the rubber piece or pulley itself is going to affect the dampening propeties as well as the balance of the pulley. How long you could sneak away with this is unknown.
Go down to a junkyard and find a 240z and get a flashlite and find one with non cracked rubber. A nismo or OEM pulley might be a better option since the rubber will be new.
The only way I would recomend you do anything to this dampener is if you had experience with engine harmonics, did destructive test on the crank itself. Any form of reducing the effectiveness is not a good option.
I am quite surpised that as much as the L6 is raced a fluid damper has not been designed.
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My doorhandle broke once when I had my Supertrapp on, that must have been the cause
People have engine failures all the time especially at race tracks. Before I bought my muffler I read many articles on it, it was equal or above flow of any muffler out there. When you start cutting the noise, the backpressure does go up. There is quite a noticable difference in loudness it goes from super loud to bearable on long trips.
If you are looking for a quiet muffler all the time with the best flow look else where, however it does what it is intended to do and I wouldn't buy a different one.
The bad wrap is from ppl who look at the end cap and discs and it just looks wrong, when in fact it gives just as much flow as most performance mufflers.
Perfhaps I will make a dyno run with discs and no discs, I doubt that there will be much differnce.
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I am not sure what you are referring to as a bad wrap on the disc type muffler. I have had a 3" SuperTrapp for 10+ years I absolutley love the sound of it on an L6. The packing lasted well and stainless is good quality. The only beef I have ever had was I left the bolts in too long over 5 years and broke 2 pulling it out. They have rebuild kits as well.
Granted if you quiet them right up you might get better performance out of some other mufflers, but when you put on a bunch of discs they are quite effecient. Reports are that they provide a vacuum in some cases.
I would highly recommend them to someone who wants adjustablity.
On a normal muffler you can simply clamp in something to restrict noise if they are going to boot you.
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Hate to sound like a pain in the butt, but cams just don't break or fail unless something is else is solid. Something caused the end to snap, best to find out what that was. My brother did a 302 and the dummies gave him wrong spings causing the valves not to close properly, it snapped the end on the cam. While everything is apart I would pull the heads and check for bent valves. Yes it's extra time and 3 head gaskets, but me I hate doing things twice (it usually bites you in the butt at the worst time).
A/R stands for area to radius ratio (don't worry if you don't understand). Think of it as a straw blowing at a pin wheel, the smaller the A/R the smaller the straw. The small straw get speed up quickly, but you have to blow real hard to get the wheel really spinning and becomes a restriction. 
12 inch Wilwood brake- hats and caliper mounts now ready
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Thank you JSK, another top notch product at a very good price. Keep up the good work.
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