clint78z
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Posts posted by clint78z
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First of all I think people are scared Nitrous way too much, yes there are certain safety precautions that must be payed attention to. First of all if you tamper with a safety valve you are a dumb ass, period.
Nitrous is not nitro glyceron, it won't just spontaneously combust. All it is pressurized O2, and the nitrogen stabilizes and lowers combustion temps. If you solenoid leaked on startup, the excess O2 would just escape to atmosphere, since your stock fuel system is still putting out the same amount of fuel. It may run a tad lean at start, or may not even start until the excess O2 is pumped throught the motor.
Typically in fire the bottle will not explode, the safety valve will dump excess O2 into the fire which is bad. But you are not going to have a hollywood explosion on your hand, personally I would be more worried about a gas tank in the event of a fire.
True there is a couple of hood fires in N20 drag cars, usually caused by incorrect timing, or flow reversion from poor cam design. This can happen in a N/A car, but is a little less likely.
The main thing about N20 is monitor that A/F ratio, dumping extra N20 without fuel is usually the biggest problem for many people.
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I am just starting to learn to program the serial port, I have done lots of basic and visual basic and a smidgen of c++. I am trying to make a windows interface for windows for my old dos Accel DFI.
First off I got a serial port monitor, it told me what was going on. I understand that the MScomm control is a wrapper for the windows API. I understand baud rate, parity, word length. I am having trouble understanding how to set the flow control and the header insert I don't understand.
9 0.00001537 ntvdm.exe IOCTL_SERIAL_SET_BAUD_RATE Serial0 SUCCESS Rate: 19200
10 0.00000866 ntvdm.exe IOCTL_SERIAL_CLR_RTS Serial0 SUCCESS
11 0.00000922 ntvdm.exe IOCTL_SERIAL_CLR_DTR Serial0 SUCCESS
12 0.00000754 ntvdm.exe IOCTL_SERIAL_SET_LINE_CONTROL Serial0 SUCCESS StopBits: 1 Parity: NONE WordLength: 8
13 0.00000559 ntvdm.exe IOCTL_SERIAL_SET_CHAR Serial0 SUCCESS EOF:0 ERR:0 BRK:0 EVT:0 XON:11 XOFF:13
14 0.00001509 ntvdm.exe IOCTL_SERIAL_SET_HANDFLOW Serial0 SUCCESS Shake:0 Replace:0 XonLimit:2048 XoffLimit:512
15 0.00000559 ntvdm.exe IOCTL_SERIAL_LSRMST_INSERT Serial0 SUCCESS Char: ffffffff
The Char: ffffffff I don't understand, is that inserting that into the recieve data stream.
Any help hacking this thing would be appreciated, I want to make my old DFI more functional.
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Agreed on checking the diff fluid, not sure how high the diff breather tubes go on the Z71. On my pathfinder they were extra nice in putting them at the top of the hood along with air intake. They screwed the pooch and put the ecu under the drivers seat though, dumb dumbs !!
Fording in water is no big deal if you know what you are doing, you can go past the hood and intake if you maintain a speed which creates a standing wave infront of the truck. It is not smart to cross a rapidly flowing stream, risk the vehicle being washed away. MAIN THING is not to panic.
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That's about right, it can fire coil packs with a factory reprogram for buick waste spark. I am not sure if they still work on old units. The unit can also use wideband O2 with factory reprogram. Actually a fairly versatile unit, lacking a few features less than the TecII. The datalogging is something to be desired and a little slow, but can be useful.
Lock the distributor out, and hook the manetic pickups to an 88 chev truck igntion control module. Personally I would go 2 bar map sensor and add more fuel up top to 17psi. The dfi doesn't have great resolution down low. It should give you all the power you need and have decent drivability if you know how to use it. It's what I bought for $300, it's a bargain considering the options.
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Do a search for Fiero to Lambo kits, they are way more impressive. Lot's of guys run LT-1 in the back of them, very impressive. Luckily on most of them, only a few Fiero components survived. One guy I saw used the 3d map from a video game to make his body mold.
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Hey Drax can you send me a copy of your logs so I can have a look at them using my LM software, I am intrested in zooming in on that problem area, some of the advanced features are handy in analysing things.
My email is clint78z@yahoo.com
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Using the brakes a bit to stabilize a loadpoint on a map, that way there is no accelration enrichment. Did you try decreasing the plug gap, checking wiring and grounds.
Have you any way of checking the intake air temp at this point. Might be useful to log that one instead of TPS.
I love my LM-1, how do you like AFR chart vs load and rpm. I showed Klaus that one I did on excel, and he was nice enough to stick it in. Customer Service rocks !!
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Um your problem point seams to be a 4:10. This is your highest map reading, I don't think that the increased compression ratio is directly causing this. I would sneak back the fuel at that map point since it seams to run well at about 11:5/1, I think that it is too rich and can't ignite properly.
Acceleration runs aren't the best for tuning, stabilize you points at a constant load cell it tells more about what is going on. Start with the lower load cells and work up. Be careful !!
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I think someone here should buy it or do their own. Then drag race it, be the coolest thing ever. Propane and nitrous injection would lay down some decent times I would imagine.
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I think someone here should buy it or do their own. Then drag race it, be the coolest thing ever. Propane and nitrous injection would lay down some decent times I would imagine.
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I typically do a sweep then vacuum, I then light mist the floor with water. I then hang plastic, the static charge actually attracts paint. The biggest helper to cut down on fumes and about 1/3 the overspray is HVLP gun. I was was astounded how much less paint it took. Before I couldn't even see, now it almost all goes on the metal.
Take your time painting and never get in a rush, never spray on the vehicle until your gun is set up perfect on a piece of cardboard.
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Yes everyone is correct, it increases the boiling point just like a pressure cooker. A note for you florida boys, running glycol with water increases the boiling point and heat transfer on your cooling system. It also is anticorrosion agent. Having water boiling over isn't just a mess, it traps air pockets in the system and causes hot spots and detonation and thermal fatigue.
Keys to keeping it healthy,
Flush the system to get the scale out
Run glycol and water wetter from redline, use distilled water
Some shops can pressure test a cap
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The TPS I believe is just a switch as opposed to a potentiometer style, at least that is how my old non turbo was. Mabey reread the manual to see if it was setup right, seems funny that O2 is affecting idle. Never hurts to recheck. With the car idling do a drop cylinder test, pull each injector wire off while idling write down the new rpm on the tach. The cylinder with the lowest rpm is the one that is casuing problems.
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I think 160F is reasonable for a limit to coolant enrichment it is that on other vehicles and is what I programmed on my EFI.
As for closed loop idle (feedback from O2 sensor is used), it is not supposed to happen from the factory. It is only newer cars that do this, it is extremely hard to do. Another reason why I know the ZXT idles open loop is the O2 sensor is single wire, it does not have an internal heater sufficent to keep it up to temp at idle. Perhaps the wiring to the TPS is not showing the idle circuit. You need to track down why the O2 sensor is affecting idle when it should not.
Here is a trick to tell if you are idling too rich or too lean for that motor on any AFM or MAF vehicle. Grab a smaller vacuum hose and pull it off at idle, does it idle better or worse? If it idles better you are too rich, and if it is worse you are too lean or just right. What you are doing is leaning out the mixture by adding extra unmetered air to the engine.
As for injectors I got a rebuilt set from Neihoff for about $30 a peice. Another way to diagnose a bad injector is to unplug it at idle, if rpm doesn't drop it or it's wiring is bad.
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Just a word of warning the Temp guage and the coolant temp sensor connectors can be hooked up backwards rigth by the thermostat. This caused some problems on my first startup on my 78 280z. But I think the ZXT has a different location.
To the best of my knowledge the ZXT doesn't use the O2 sensor readings at idle, it probably runs 13:1 from factory. It is up tot the TPS switch to tell the ECCS to jump out of idle mode. The only time it uses O2 info is during cruise (that I am aware of).
I would focus on igntion misfire, clogged injector, poor sensor grounding. Good luck, these problems can be a real pain eliminating things one by one starting from easiest to hardest.
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I would definately do more investigating into your fuel system, and basic torubleshooting. I am quite sure something is off there. What you need is a $20 multimeter from Radioshack, and a factory service manual. Your engine should be at least able to cruise at stoich. My guess if the extra fuel is masking a problem of its own. If you get this problem sorted out, I bet you will see major HP improvements along with driveability. You need to tap into the O2 wire and see if it is showing rich or lean, you can do your basic tuning with this info if go in small steps.
Idle mixture screw on AFM is for idle, O2 sensor should be able to correct for cruise, and AFM spring for higher throttle, and use the FMU to tune for full boost.
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If you look in your service manual if mentions the afm idle bypass circuit. It says that this is set from factory, but can be adjusted if co and nox readings are off. Basically it sets you AFR for idle. Since the amount of idle air is very small it has to bypass the afm door. It doesn't have enough pressure to open the door and meter it.
This will have almost no affect on the rest of the fuel map because the amount of air bypassing though this circuit is so small.
Set idle with that screw (a controlled air leak)
Shift the fuel map up and down with spring tension and your BEGI unit
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To set the idle mixture on the AFM use the bypass screw under the rubber grommet. I would shoot for about 13:1 at idle, getting it stoich will be a challenge. Increasing idle rpm helps too.
Drax on the SDS you can open throttle plates with the idle screw, then dial back the timing a bit. This will increase the amount of air required to maintain 900rpm. Fuel adjustments will be a little less sensitive. TimZ gave me that idea.
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I was wondering if anyone had some datalogs laying aroundof their L28et in action, I am intrested in the amount of fluctuation in map pressure. Any background on the log would be great as well. Trying to trace a gremlin down, I think it might be an injector seal leaking after the manifold heats up.
Thing runs like a champ when cold and when air temp and coolant temp is warm. But after a while the engine heat soaks it runs like crap. No amount of fuel correction will fix it.
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Look he still has his foot on the gas, that's what I call a racer
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Run a wire tap from your O2 wire to a voltmeter, if it stays above .45v it should be a good indication that your A/F wasn't 18:1. The cicrumstanses seem a little fishy to trust the wideband.
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If you want new users to follow these instructions the following steps are probably a good soloution.
When you press on the button add new topic have a screen that has a brief description on how to search and the search button first. Then a button that says No info found add new topic.
This reminds them every time to serach first.
I get mixed results from search, sometimes I can't get a thread I know is there. Have patience.
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Well I think I discovered some of my EFI running problems, it started to run poorly when it would heat soak after driving for a while. It appears that the engine needs more fuel dialed in the air enrichment table at warmer temperatures. It was actually running more than a full AFR point higher than usual past about 70F to mabey 120F when in stop and go traffic.
It has always been my understanding that hotter air is less dense therefore to maintain the same AFR less fuel is needed. Which is contrary what is required by the engine. Is it because the fuel is actually getting hotter as well and expanding, this would mean the injector would need to stay on longer to deliver the same weight of fuel. Does anyone have other theories or explainations ??
I am going to put the intake heat sheild back on, mabey insulate the fuel rail. Plans are to ceramic the exhaust manifold next year.
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I am trying to figure out where the body gets grounded on the 280z. It goes from -ve post to the engine block. Can't really see where the body is grounded ?? I am looking to redo the main charging system, having some electrical gremlins.
It look like the +ve goes from post to starter, then from there to fusible link, then to fuse box and voltage regulator and alternator.
Usually the wiring diagram are good from the manual, but the charging system it doesn't tell where the phisically hook up.
Any of you turbo guys have this happen?
in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
Posted
I would check the Cylinder Head Temp sensor, and connecotr as well. Clean and Dielectric grease all vital connectors as well injectors, afm, ignition coil.