clint78z
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Posts posted by clint78z
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One thing to note about sizing a turbo is that the A/R will be one of the major factors of spoolup characteristics. I am not going to debate .63 or .83. One thing I will offer is if you choose a big wastegate it will allow you to run a smaller A/R and still allow you to flow enough at the top end.
You see the ristrictive smaller A/R housing can be bypassed through the large wastegate.
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I am usually quite good at tracking down things on my Accel DFI. I have a miss at idle and light load can't seem to track it down.
Here is what I use for different stuff
370cc injectors with stock FPR
Mustang TB no IAC
ZXT fuel pump with DFI controlled factory wiring and relay
88 chev Electronic spark timing igntion module with case grounded directly
this hooks to stock reluctor.
I am usually quite anal about wiring so I will give an indication how I wired the unit. 8 gauge with gold terminal from 12+ve to a gold plated fuse block 50amp fuse (gold). This provides power to ECU, injectors, O2 sensor all hooked together. The switched power for the ECU came from old coil +ve. All grounds come back to common ring terminal, which goes a short distance with 10 gauge to starter ground. If you see problems here please tell me.
Weird things I notice is my dfi voltages swings up and down one volt, not sure if that's normal. Also when I turn on my signal light I notice the idle swings up and down more. The noise of the fuel pump seems to change.
I am not sure if it's electrical, fuel, ignition. I hate these little intermitant things. I am pretty good with a multimeter. I would like to talk more about ground loops and try to diagnose this problem.
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When it comes to wiring, heated wires comes one thing poor connection.
If we go back to the basics of electricity.
You 3A pump should have the correctly sized wire, you can calculate what size you need for the length. Now what if you only have one strand connecting the pump. That's right the wire heats up. Redo the power and ground terminals, get rid of corrosion. Check your relay too.
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You can make 2 1/4" work with stock fan and dizzy, I machined a spacer to push the stock fan outward for more clearance. It is basically scottiegnz's old routing. On the turbo side I had to cut the end off his piping and use a 2" to 2 1/4" 90 silicon elbow.
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I nust commend you on you efforts this is how big things get done, love to see the ole hot rod guys with a saw and welder. Getting those coolant passages is going to be a major task. One thing to remember is that the coolant is responsible for taking heat away from the hot exhaust valves. This is critical on a turbo engine, since this will cause preignition if it gets too hot.
From a reserch standpoint, if you are really hot and heavy about making this a real barnstormer ready for production. I would go about it this way take a stock turbo cam on the P90 and figure out the theortical flow through the port. You can probably get some real flow numbers if you did some searching. Then I would take that number and bump it up by 15% this should give a appeciable gain in potential power. Use this flow # to design you cam on the 4 valve head. Port Flow new= P90flow * 15%
Now to design the cam for the new 4valver you will have to start with the KA24's cam design as a base. Then you will have to make modifications to that base profile to go from KA24 Port Flow old -----> Port Flow new
Things to keep in mind that is to deal with individual ports for the flow numbers. You now have 6 of them on the KA24 head, so don't let the math throw you for a loop.
May have missed some stuff, hopefulley I didn't type something wrong when I did this quickly.
Go out and give er'
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Phew I thought you were going minivan on us !!! Your posts are always great reading and informative, make sure you keep em coming to our board. You never know if you might get the itch for the Z again, it lacks some creature comforts, howver it is one of a kind.
Are you getting neon lights for the undersid of the new car ?? Sorry I couldn't resist.
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Kingcab do you have any pics of the conversion, I have looked at this before. How did you get around the low mounted turbo postion it is in the way of the motor mount in the truck
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First of all the 57mm on paper is a fantastic turbo, when pushed passed 18psi it starts running out of breath. Otherwise you are blessed with very high thermal effeciency over a wide range. When sizing a turbo for the street/strip always pick your peak torque airflow and average boost pressure in the center island of the map. You spend very little time 1 mabey 2 seconds above 6000rpms. Surge lines do matter, if you run a compressor in the range it will cause premature failure.
I bought James old 57mm with stage III .63 a/r. The thing has some major hammer down low and keeps pulling. It seems very well suited for the engine. It pulls harder than my n/a motor from 1500rpm and up in second gear. I have ha good luck with majestic, very prompt service. But that is just one case.
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Alot of the work has already been started, the only thing I ask is that you share with everyone.
http://hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19908&highlight=autocad
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I found this I was having the same problem. The problem is your fuse box has corrosion. Pull it out and from the back pop the terminals out. Do this to each wire sanding it with 40 grit sand paper on the inside until it completely looks like brass again. It takes about 2 hours and will solve many electrical problems.
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I got mine on friday and here is my impressions.
Bang for the buck nothing else come close to it's capabilities. I am a cheapo and I spent a little more than I wanted but glad I did. Instantly it helped diagnose my rich idle problem, and I had a hot/cold fueling problem.
I had problems installing the CD but just copied the files over. As far as support, he answers all questions no matter how in depth. I have read about the design and testing of it. The software is simple and easy to use.
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Mabey a helpful little hint for you Ross to keep everything running smoothly is to have a little note box at the top of your website. Say for example you are out for the week at a car show, simply type a couple of words with an update. It keeps ppl from wondering the worst and freaking out.
People please keep in mind Ross is a small bussiness that offers specialty equipment at a good price. Ross has always answered my questions, I haven't even bought anything from him YET (upgrades to come). I am sure Ross will do his best to get your parts out quickly as possible.
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DANGER Wil Robinson Danger
Very Robbie the Robot, sorry couldn't resist.
It looks funky.
I am going to dig around our shop, I have acess to several different types of insualtion. We get this ceramic concrete stuff takes direct +1500F flame. Lot's of that type of insulation in the boilers I design. It will really help on the turbo cars.
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I just placed my order for one, I got the exhuast clamp so I can tune other vehicles in our family. The narrow band thing has got things fairly close. But still leaves you in the dark alot of the time.
I hope it proves to do everything it says it can, if so I will be more than pleased.
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Yes you are dead on it is the fender to c-pillar area I plan to make the sub box for. Fiberglass is kinda like cooking, a few recipes end up in the trash !!!!
That is an awsome desciption, thank you Terry. I know that it will probably take some time to get the hang of it, but this wil point me in the right direction. Just to clarify you are telling me not to use anything between the metal and the first layup ?? Then pull if off when it's cooked enough, wipe er down and reinsert to maintain shape.
One quick question, I made a door pod from floral foam and layed the first layer on one side it didn't kick after a day. Will it eventually harden with heat applied ?? Or do I remove it and start over again ?? The other batch kicked in 1.5 hours and I am very pleased. It almost made me look like I know what I am doing .
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I have the hnag of fiberglass down fairly decent, using a roller helped a ton. I am going to try a sub box in the rear trunk fender. I am going to tape and tinfoil it so I can remove the box after. The problem is the upper part of the fender starts to go upside down. I have never had any luck keeping it stuck on a funky angle. Could I use 3m adhesive on the mat to keep it stuck to contour and then use resin over top ?? Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanx C
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I want this one
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You need to get yourself a factory manual and a mulitmeter and start testing sensors. If they check out good you can eliminate them as problems. It will save you $$ in the end. Don't start randomly replacing things. Start with easy and work to hard stuff to test.
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My Accel DFI was running quite well under boost, but was cutting in and out when I started to lean it out at 15"hg. I was starting to think Accel didn't have enough resolution to control the bigger 370cc injectors with a 2bar sensor.
It was the original igntion relay cutting in and out. I could hear a relay clicking every once and a while. So one of my power connections was unstable and virtually impossible to track with a multimeter. I pulled the old relay apart only to see some major welding action happening on the points.
I would like to stress again the importance of proper electrical connections when wiring an aftermarket ECU. Take an extra couple of days and be anal about it, it will pay off in the long run down the road.
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I found this website a while back not sure if I posted it. It has some great info if you start digging. The company has an impressive track record with NHRA Bob Glidden mop the track with his engines
. The one thing that impresses me is that everything is not a huge secret. Obviously they have trade secrects, but they explain all their concepts. This one is good reading for ford, chev, hell any gear head.
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I think the moderators here have been fairly tolerant, and have given everyone some slack. However sometimes you are forced to make decisions you don't like to do to keep things on track. The bigger things get the less control we have over them.
I used to post on zcar.com all the time when it was me and mabey 15 other members. I had alot of technical conversations with 240zturbo about the turbo L6 it could fill a book. Eventually the site got bigger because there was alot of good info being talked about. I eventually gathered scraps of info on putting an LSD into a 280z. Eventually alot of garbage starting to get posted, and I jumped ship. It was unfortunate to watch some ppl bash the V8z. I am very proud of my L6, however drool over an LS6 as well. I am far from purist and a part from just about every other car. Heck I would use washing machine parts if I could get them for chaep and made my car faster.
The technical info on the L6 far above any other website, we just like the V8 boys want to be the fastest pony in the stable. I feel fortunate the the V8 guys let me come here and chat about the L6, yes it feels like home to me. I read all of the boards chev and ford, even dodge. Lot's of the info boils over into the other areas anyhow. It's one stop shopping for serious technical discussion with a little humour every know and again.
The problems derive from a small portion of close minded ppl who want an RB or a turbo because it's all the rage. They are not intrested in learning anything on the subject, just something to impress bubbles the girl down the street. Not all ppl are like this, and need a little patience because they don't know where to start. If ppl are being jerks, by all means insert foot to ass.
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I have both IE 6 and Mozzilla, both of them refuse to show me the pictures in the album. I click on them and it tells me I am not authourized. Can anyone help me out ??
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Be sure to flow bench and dyno a before & after to give us some concrete results. If you are going to epoxy be sure you are not restricting any cooling passages with the epoxy, don't want any hot spots in the head.
Not sure why the port is smaller than valve inlet. Perhaps it might be to increase velocity to create a tiubling effect ?? Mabey it might be just the limitation of engineers working with an outdated design ??
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Well the forces should be easy enough to calculate on bolts adapter and ears. I would imagine offsets to be in the 1" area, it is nice to see everyone using their heads when it comes to brake safety. However I think many ppl underestimate the power of a durability of a chunk of steel.
Typically in good engineering practice bolts are never placed in shear loading. The threading portion causes stress risers in the metal and is prone to forming cracks and will snap way before it should. I would imagine the torque specs on the bolts are more than sufficent to provide a clamping force to keep the caliper from applying a shear force on the bolt.
In rare cases the bolt will be placed in shear as a safety feature, it will snap like a shear pin protecting damage of more expensive parts.
Mabey I wll go through the math and figure it all out one day, good arm chair discussion though.
Centerforce vs. ACT, how hard on the flywheel?
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
Things to consider when buying a clutch, you are right buying the bad ass clutch may not be for you. Now there are several facotrs controlling how a clutch functions.
The diameter of the clutch relates to the friction surface area. The more sirface area the easier it is for the clutch to do it's job. It pays to get the 240mm clutch.
The pressure plate has springs in it that exert a constant presssure against the clutch. It can be calculated back to clamping force of the clutch given a known surface area. Increasing this will make the clutch less likely to slip. It is harder on the thrust bearings nad gives stiff pedal pressure.
The clutch disc can be sprung or unsprung, the springs make the engagment less quick and reduce chatter. The material on the clutch disc can change the coefficent of friction. If you go with a higher coeffecient of friction once it slips it will eat the flywheel faster. If you go with puck disc it decrease surface area w=p/a, but increases effective clamping load (typically a higher coeff of friction of material is used. Sucks for the street
What I would recommend to most people is use a 240mm clutch, increase pressure plate by 20-30% and go with a carbon kevlar disc full faced with a sprung hub. The carbon kevlar disc performs grips better than stock at high temps when it slips a little and won't eat the flywheel.
This should be good for most ppl pushing 300hp, of course if you are mean on the clutch or run slicks and drag race lots I would step it up another notch.
If you go too nasty you will have chaterring, broken drivetrain parts, on/off behaviour, toasted flywheel....
Choose wisely