RebekahsZ

Does anybody have a source for aluminum/delrin rear LCA bushings that are NOT the offset kind? I am getting excessive rear toe-in when launching on slicks. Actually, I don't know that I am toeing in, but the rear tire is almost hitting the front of the fender lip on slow-speed videos, and it is happening before the car squats. If not, what about a source for the correct size delrin inserts and I can have the aluminum portion fabricated. And yes I know aluminum bushings are noisy-Ive run them before.

How'd it go last night? Do I need to come bail you out?

What software did you use to create the inside/outside windows? Very cool. Way to go on your car. The crooked road-only crowd has no idea how hard it really is.

Just went thru calendar with Mrs Thompson. Count me out. There is a four-day weekend for my daughters school and it would be very bad politically for me to split when I should take my family to the mountains. There is a 2-day autocross at home the following weekend, then I tear down for winter upgrades. Maybe next year.

Your friend knocked those out quick! Can your friend make 'em in 5/8 and 3/4"? I will be ordering my big brake kit from AZC this week and will need that much spacing to clear them. And I got a lead on a second set of slicks I can put on my 8" wheels for mocking up. Don't pull the trigger yet, but can you see if he can get the stock in those thicknesses?

Hooking up better with the 3,000 rpm 2-step setting.

Hooking up better with the 3,000 rpm 2-step setting.

Went to a track that has a cruddy reputation because it is under new management. Unfortunately, it is under new ownership, but under same management. Night was burdened with one guy dropping his driveshaft half way down the track (I won't judge him for that) one dude ran off the end of the track into a field, and another guy broke his tranny case and dumped about a gallon of tranny fluid right in the staging area. After all that cleanup I got about 6 runs, 2 of which were 7.17s. But my lights were terrible and my ETs all over the place. So I threw $10 into the race in the foot brake class just to get to experience the dial-in with separate trees. Fastest car in this class by far. Red lighted first race and shifted to third late. Went to tower and bought back in. Second race red lighted, but the slower car red lited first, so I won. Third race a bye. Fourth race, the staging guy says:"There's three of you left, you can split the prize $500 3-ways and call it a night." I say:"He'll no, I came to race!" Both those races were 7.18s so I moved my dial in from 7.14 to 7.16. Fourth race I'm racing Jack Palance look-alike in an 80s Ford Fairmont. I'm thinking:"I got this!" His dial in is 10.83 (1/8 mile, mind you). Similar reaction times but he gets to leave like a month before me. I'm running him down and just before the timers he stomps on his brakes as I fly past him with a 7.11 breaking out. His next opponent red lited and and Curly takes home the money. I hit the TnT lane and yank out a 7.18 followers by a 7.13. I had a lot of trouble staying straight today mostly from my arms flapping around as I shift. .

Are you talking about the clips that hold the inner CV into the diff, or the clips that attach the splined axle into the inner CV?

Thanks for your advice the other night.

Final plan: Strange nitrited billet slip yoke, standard fixed yokes, 1350 solid Spicer front u-joint, 3" DOM tube, 1310 solid Spicer rear u-joint (size limited by rear Nissan flange size), round 300zxt Nissan rear flange with square bolt pattern for 10mm bolts. $585. Waiting for arrival. Racing on repaired driveshaft tomorrow night, reducing 2-step from 4000rpm to 3000 rpm.

I think you gotta have 4 bolts on each leg and the foot plates and backing plates have to be a certain dimension. Is bolting to the strut tower strong? Absolutely. Is bolting to the inner fenders strong? Not very. Does it look good? Definitely.

The canned tune that I got for my car put me at 401hp and 428 tq on a cold motor. The live tuning got me 398hp and 435 tq on a hot motor. My tuner said the canned tune was just a little rich, but he was impressed. Canned tune was from waitformeperformance.com. I do not recommend them-customer service was terrible.

If you plan to autocross and drag race, an argument could be made in support of an automatic since autocross tends to be a 1-gear event. May go auto someday just to be easier on parts.

When I bought my Illuminas 10-15 years ago, I was told they were for an mr2 (sectioned tubes). I have one that has lost all rebound dampening, but the darn things have no part numbers on them anywhere and when I actually found my ancient receipt, it had no part numbers either. I'm just continuing to drive on it.

I'm actually having the most fun so far racing directly against another V8 Z-car. We get together about every 2-3 weeks. I'm beating him now, but I know he has more potential with his T350 and a crew chief that knows his stuff. Got a feeling next summer he's gonna walk away from me, when I really wish our cars were totally matched so that it was a driver's race.

Not having fun trying to get this custom driveshaft made. The Driveshaft Shop seems to need me to tell them exactly what I want, as opposed to them giving me a recommendation. Very hard to get their driveshaft man on the phone, but at least he emails. I'm asking them for a Mark Williams hardened chrome moly slip yoke, 1350 solid Spicer u-joints, and they feel that a 3" DOM steel tube is adequate. What I don't know is what static yokes and flange are available. I think I'm learning that they are all cast iron??? Anybody have any ideasrecommendations on these parts?

There's ALWAYS somebody faster, richer and better looking. Last weeks's trip to the strip (1/8 mile) I ran 7.1sand 7.2s; the turbo/spray Mustangs were running mid-5s. I was among the slowest cars running. Haven't gone up against a stock car that I can't beat, but modified vs modified I'm toast.

Speedwaymotors.com

If you can't totally waste a stock mustang (even factory SC), you should hang your head in shame.

What I like about my DPs is that I know what the give me. I change my rear camber at least once a month. If I push all the way in, I get 2.5 neg camber. Pull them all the way out, I get 1 positive. Neg for autocross, pos for drag. If I had slots, I would have to get out the camber gauge everytime-it would be a real hassle. Now, the fronts-I have them at 3neg and I never change them so I don't have to fool with toe-in alignment.

There were some turbo'd mustangs running 5.3-5.6 1/8 mile last weekend. Awesome.

No order from me-still waiting on feedback from brake manufacturer.

The newest carnage is spot weld fatigue in the panel where the RT mount bolts. It is where the panel welds to the bottom of the tranny tunnel (not the ears where the RT actually bolts). This area needs seem welding.

Cheapo yoke mated to driveshaft and car put back together hoping to put power to it Friday night. Ready to load on trailer. Will check in with the DSS tomorrow to see how custom DS is coming along.