RebekahsZ

Holy crap! What is your fuel supply system? Any lean issues? Progressive controller or simple shot? Still on 26x8.5x15s? Way to go! I know you didn't dead hook all of that the other night.

Which day in October?

Another tube of trans-x in the pumpkin. Used some 3/8" fuel hose to help get it in the fill hole.

That's no slouch for a single pass. My first pass usually disappoints. Last trip to the strip my two-step release switch was out of adjustment and I bogged and went a 14 (1/8-mile)! Took half way down the track to think to turn off the switch manually. I just had a buddy go 7.6 tonight with a 77 280z with a 350 and a T350. I got somebody to race! Looking forward to your results from next trip. The upside-you got nothing to fix!

I never get wheel hop at the drag strip on slicks (maybe because the car just hooks and goes!) but I got wheel hop at the start of the autocross on street tires and I just got a bunch of wheel hop on Hoosier R6s leaving a car show tonight. I get off it as soon as I feel it, but that can't be too good for the old girl!

I asked this question earlier this year. Johnc suggested close because the sensor reads best when it is hot. Others said to place it far enough back so that the exhaust from each cylinder can "average" for the bank. I put mine where it was practical - right in the collector on the JTR header. It tuned fine and is working fine. Next exhaust mod for me is an extra port on each headpipe for the tuner to use without disconnecting one of mine. The wiring is longer on the sensor for the rear sensors so if you end up too short, get the rear ones. Otherwise the sensors are the same.

When I dragged my car with a L24 the stock axles needed tightening after every trip. And there were always a few that were loose. Always at the end near the hub.

Thought I had posted finished product photos. Will look for them and post. May have already deleted them. My tuner asked me to have another accessible O2 sensor installed. There was no problem at the tuner with the current o2 sensor location.

I'm starting to see the merits of the spring steel tranny crossmember that JCI makes. Perhaps that flexibility will insulate my chassis a bit. I think all of us would be wise to use a frequent inspection schedule to inspect every fastener in the suspension and driveline in order to avoid major repairs. I'm a big advocate of an inspection aid called Torque Seal. It is made by Organic Products and sold cheap on-line by Parts Geek. The postage is more than the product but don't order more than a couple of tubes-it has a pretty short shelf life in a hot summer garage. You use torque seal to mark a fastener so that you can just do a visual inspection to spot de-torqued fasteners. It is like wax-if the wax is cracked, get out the torque wrench. If it is still "sealed" rock on. I spotted my loose gland nut thanks to this stuff. We used it in aviation maintenance on the Army.

I only have loose bolts and no torn metal, but if you have carnage related to your LS swap, throw up a pic! There are several other "carnage" threads out there, so this is not intended to suplant those.To answer and earlier question, I haven't done any seam welding. This winter's plans include a 6-point bar to connect from the rear strut towers to the footwell. My car flexes the most when jacking it up-it is noticeable. Not sure if that has anything to do with having an LS-motor. You can really tell when you open and close the doors when car is on jackstands and comparing that with how well they close when on the ground on the tires. There are jackstand locations that cause more flex than others.

I'm trying to get ready for a day of road race instruction with cobramatt. Going thru car tightening loose bolts and checking things out. I have auto crossed car three times and gone to the drags twice. So far, Ive found de-torqued lug nuts, a loose gland nut, and almost every nut throughout the rear suspension subframe. Driveshaft bolts were good, still gotta check axles. Gotta check TC rods-Matt like curb hopping. Haven't found any NEW chassis cracks.

Who's idea was it to make it impossible to add oil to the diff while it is installed in the car! To be continued in about a week......

Another tube of trans-x in my hand.

Oh, I can't help it. I've got a problem with my rearend banging and your nuts are falling off! And to think we met online. I'm on the wrong end of our little Internet relationship! I can't stop laughing!

I just got under mine-it is incredible how thin the metal is on those brackets. I checked my nuts (haha) and they haven't broken off yet. I take great reassurance in that.

Yeah, it is actually a low-power phenomenon. I tried the extra FM on the prior diff to no avail but I will try it on this one too. I think you told me on the last one that I could go with as much as 3 tubes. I did the diff work myself so i can visualize the internals. What exactly is happening mechanically inside the diff on the big bangs?

Johnc-the audio you sent me says "Even the losers get lucky sometimes." I will try not to take it too personally. If you say it is normal and won't hurt anything, I'm gonna drive it and try to ignore it. I've got one of your units on my wish list, it just has a couple things ahead of it.

Thank you. So is the banging likely to harm anything? I can live with it if this is "normal" and just part of having an CLSD. I have to induce the chatter and I have to use the brake to make it bang repeatedly like the video (the video exaggerates the frequency of the problem). It is just so startling when it bangs totally out of the blue when I'm tooling around daily driving or making the turn onto the return track at the dragstrip or turning into the paddock at the end of an autocross run. Subconsciously I also think "you just busted an axle!"

Yeah, I used a tube of friction modifier. On the previous diff I used either two or three tubes. You can't hear the little chattery noise inside the car. It is the bang or pop that I want some insight into. I've got my eye on a helical but the current owner has to get his 8.8 swap done before I can buy it. I already have a vicious on the shelf. Just trying to learn something.

Yeah, those quick disconnectsl look sketch to me too. I had an AN fitting welded to my stock rail.

I have had 2 different R200 CLSDs that I put in my 240z with LS2 power. I did the 6-clutch mod. The first 3.90 CLSD I shimmed to a wet 65# breakaway torque and it made an intermittent banging noise, but was otherwise great. When I changed ratios, I built another R200 in a 3.54 case/R&P with a different CLSD carrier (out of a 3.70 CLSD); I did the 6 clutch mod, but didn't shim it resulting in 45# wet breakaway torque. The second diff made the same banging noise. I've heard of chatter, but I didn't think the intermittent banging noise was chatter. I have a new RT mount with a rubber bumper between the nose of the diff and the front crossmember keeping the diff nose from moving either up on accel or down on decel. The mustache bar has poly bushings. Can you guys watch the attached video link and help me understand what is happening? I'm new to LSDs. I put a goPro camera on my gas tank (sorry the fuel pump is so loud) and you can see the passenger side rear wheel, and axle. You can hear what must be chatter, tire chirp, and the occasional POP which sounds like a loud BANG inside the car. The maneuver I did to produce the symptoms was a slow turn to the right (it does it when turning to the left too), left-foot braking to keep the speed down and applying throttle to increase torque on the LSD. The banging seems to occur most often when I let up and straighten the wheel. The bang usually happens when turning to leaving a 4-way stop, when driving around in a parking lot or when tooling around the paddock at an autocross or drag race. It generally doesn't bang when in a straight line. I don't have any clunking when launching at the dragstrip from up to 4000 rpm. Perhaps this banging is normal and to be expected, but if I have a problem, I'd like to understand it and fix it. Go to youtube for it so you can watch it full-screen. All the smart guys please advise!

Wow, I missed that one by a mile! Way to go team. I had a similar aggravation with my clutch failing to disengage due to flywheel warpage. I gotta add this to my bag of trouble shooting tricks. Thanks for taking us all along to learn something new.

That's OK, you've already scared me off. I was only interested if it was easy.

They don't have to fit perfectly. Line em up best you can and use longer bolts to pull it together. You will love how this improves your steering.

I had a brand new tilton that was unreliable. Called tech support and they said to put a plug in it to test it so your idea is a good one. You may actually wind up pluging all four wheels. You might be right about the booster since it takes less power to lock the rear wheels due to weight transfer.