RebekahsZ

It is SOOOOO much fun! I really like the perspective that the camera mounted behind the rear wheel gives-way better than watching me flail around on the steering wheel. I rode-along with a really good Porsche driver and I spent one run only watching his feet-very informative. 225/50/16 on a 16X8 RBR. I "think" I can fit 17X9s inside the fenders thanks to the coilovers and camber plates, but I'm not sure, but that is likely the maximum-may check with johnc, but I don't want to start a "will this wheel fit" thread. I definitely need more traction (and lots more practice). Looking for money (gonna sell some parts) for some Hoosier A6s to fit on the existing 16X8s, then upgrade from there. It can be pretty difficult (a project) trying to fit max wheel and tire on a z-car without a lot of buying, crying and return postage. Flares open things up a lot, and we can go that way someday, but I'd like to keep it in stock fenders for now. If ZG flares had been in fashion when I had the bodywork done 20 years ago, I likely would have gone that way. I DO wish I had at least trimmed the lip off (and had the gap welded) before I had the car painted, but the factory flare is only about an inch tall, so with lowering, I would still have trouble clearing the actual inner fender. The car has the power-to-weight ratio to be competitive with cars that are running 315s or larger. Perhaps if I start autocrossing more (that would have to be after a divorce) I would have more justification to create more tire clearance. For now it is just fun and I should avoid getting too neurotic.

Just depends on how picky you get and how neurotic you are. Find your standard and build to it. They are ALL supercars. If you get crazy with the "while you are at its", you can really get bogged down and misdirect a lot of money. The goal should be to start and finish and not waste a good chassis and a good powertrain by locking it up in a wet basement until it all goes to crap because you didn't get your biggest tool in order: money!

Looks like only 2 videos maxed out the posting limit. Here's the last one (the fast one). It is pretty well over at 1:20, the rest of the video just shows what a poor cinematographer I am.

Videos of autocross on the cheapest Khumos I could find. Whole course in 2d gear. Experienced first episodes of wheel hop on launch, so launched easy. Two "straight-aways" saw the rev limiter. Cable-X speedometer is installed but not programmed. Please overlook the late braking and bad driving. It is interesting that I am closer to the cones on my blind side. We did the same course the day before in a driving rain. Looks like I have room for some wider wheels/tires. I was the slowest Z-car there due to driver and non-sticky rubber. What a blast! The final video (right side #2) was the fastest in spite of the brake lock-up - the rest of the course I ran clean and was flying'; it was .5 seconds faster even with all that lost time screwing around getting back straightened out. Looking for some used 245/45/16 Hoosier A6s!

Click on my screen name and that will take you to my profile. Click on content and you should find a long build thread in the member projects section that starts as something like Mentor Wanted for LS swap. All you need can be found there, successes and mistakes alike.

Go hard!!!

You could definitely do that. I just saw an autocross z car where the owner tilted back the radiator in an effort to reduce his yaw moment. The same guy gas peeled off enough weight to get the weight down to under 2000# in a 76-280z the details do build up.

Oh, and I wouldn't even think about starting without a $10,000 war chest.

Go join LS1tech.com to find out about the SLP stuff. We usually just use some cold air arrangement like the JCI kit to go thru the radiator support. Those SLP kits are pretty much f-body kits. I have an LS2-it is not worth it-you have to change to an LS1 oil pan and alternator. These cars are so fast that the extra 50hp is kind of lost in the averages. Interestingly, I was getting soundly beaten by a well driven L28 equipped z with better tires. This conversion only makes the car faster if you can keep it pointed in a straight line (which is harder than you may think).

The autocross in the driving rain without wiper or defrost was a blast. Had to keep the windows down for defrost-ish and there is about an inch of water in the bottom of the car. I must have needed the ballast because I got faster as the day went on. Lots of guys gave up with the rain, so I was hot lapping the course. What a blast. Tomorrow is race day and what pulled up in trailer parking as we were loading up? A 1900 pound 76 280z with a 350z motor complete with two national champion drivers. So, I'm ditching on the drag racing tomorrow (scared off by the big signs for tech inspection) and coming back to the autocross. So far, the only evaluation I've gotten of my car from the several guys who have driven it is: very good turn-in (whatever that is) and poor compression decel. Anybody know how to tune that out? Instead of decelling abruptly on throttle lift, the car just continues to coast until the driver applies the brakes. That was the negative comment. Got to drive a lightly modified 240z with Star-spec Dunlops. On spite of having to use my arms to both steer and stay on my seat (stock seats) I was 3 seconds faster than I was in my brutish machine. The owner of that z scared himself pretty bad when he spun my car, which only made me laugh my ask off! It is really fun getting to watch other folks drive the car. More tomorrow.

I think you are screwed. If you don't want to flare fenders, return those wheels. You need a positive offset.

Got to track under heavy clouds but no rain. Arrived 3 hours before scheduled event. While talking to track owner the skies opened (buckets) and he cancelled until Sunday. Gonna pull thru on Sunday before heading home and see if I can run. From the looks of things this is a strict track, so I may not be allowed to run, but we will see. Hitting the sack to be up early to head to autocross ( they run in the rain).

Scale at the dump-only displays accurately to 20 pounds. Car was somewhere between 2400 and 2420 ( the scale displayed 2400 some of the time and 2420 some of the time). I put the front wheels on the scales and it read 1200, with the rear wheels on the scale it read 1240. The math doesn't quite add up, I think the scale does some rounding. Heavier than I expected.

The weather report looks bad, but still loading the truck tonight.

Rim how wide?

Consistently slow! Weather report looks bad and I'm exhausted but I'm still rolling. The autocross will still go in the rain but drags are subject to cancellation. What tire are you running?

I hate that when guys keep their times private! Have you seen the perfume for fuel advertised? I've thought about getting some just to have fun with folks. I would go with the bubble gum flavor! I'm gonna try to spend some time this weekend talking to folks to learn some bracket racing tactics. I'm definitely gonna try to get the tower to use a dial-in even during TnT so I can get used to running next to somebody and trying to beat them by "just a bit." So far, my only tactic has been to go as fast as I can. Dang! I just watched that "loosest setting" youtube video. Wheels UP!

No idea what that other z was equipped with??

It is a junkyard motor with 18k miles. I think it is stock except for an under drive pulley and removal of air conditioning and power steering pump. I just stuck it in the car and changed the oil. It even has the junkyard spark plugs in it - haven't even removed them or gapped them. Last trip to 1/4-mile strip I went 11.0-something in the heat of the summer and I'd just had 3 hamburgers. I figure a cool night, a good crap, no hamburgers, remove the spare tire and run less gas in the tank and I'm there. With the leaky master cylinder, I'm actually more worried about stopping! The boys think my car must be pretty light - I'm considering making up some ludicrous weight to tell them, just to piss them off! There's lots of cars faster than that every time I go to the track, so it is no big deal. Sure is a lot of fun when it comes together.

Hoping to go 10.9999999999

I got the leaking brake caliper and it's associated hard and flexible brake lines replaced, bled and test driven. Pulled back into garage and I see no leaks. Went to be sure reservoirs are topped off and what do I see? Paint peeling on the vacuum booster around where the master cylinder bolts on. Pedal is good. Gonna pay attention to fluid levels in reservoirs and race anyway. I wish all the old peripheral (but important) stuff on my car were as good as my powerplant! CF stub axle swap is done; slicks are mounted. Headed to Memphis to race 1/4-mile Friday and Saturday. Expecting to get rained out at least one of those nights, but I'm not giving up. Somebody come join me!

JUST finished bleeding brakes from a leaking wheel cylinder, was lowering the hood from doing the job and what did I see? Some paint peeling on the booster right below my master cylinder. Looks like my 3rd rebuilt master cylinder is leaking! Argh! I just can't get a break. I was just thinking about adjusting the push rod when I got home from the weekend's racing. Hope the darn thing doesn't fail suddenly (looks like it has been leaking for a while) cause I'm going racing anyway, but I'm gonna order the Wilwood 1" kit when I get home. Did I mention that I suck at brake work? Anyway, how is the Wilwood master holding up for all of you? I don't need a bigger MC-I just need one that will last for a few years instead of needing replacement almost annually. I friggin' hate cleaning all that goo out of the booster.....

Telekinesis

I pulled out my 27-spline 280z stub axles and 27-spline Z31 adapted companion flanges today. I bought them a year or two ago from JMortensen when his company, M2, was still active developing and manufacturing parts. I drag raced them with my LS2 last summer and have probably 60 passes on them and I haven't had a single issue. I haven't listed them in the parts for sale area yet because I need to figure out what I want for them. PM me if interested in all or part of this. I'll probably list them in the next couple of days, so watch parts for sale forum. The 39-spline conversion is $1200-I just did it, so I'm just selling my old stubs and companion flanges (expect 1/3-1/2 of that price for everything). Prices will be appropriate for used parts. If you use my stub axles, you will still need to source some stub axle nuts, new bearings (you could chance it and use your old ones) and some new inner seals. Rock Auto on line has the best prices for these parts. I can talk you thru the whole thing.

Keep us posted-big fan!