RebekahsZ

We forgot tires. How is your brother getting out of the hole with regular tires? Any of us going that fast without slicks/drag radials? I just sit and burn without my slicks. Got my first wheel hoping last weekend with my street tires at an autocross-sounded destructive (axles) so I got off of it. So far I've never had wheel hop at the strip on slicks.

Throw any old POS motor together that you want and spray the crap our of it and you will win.

Was gonna leave 2.5 degrees of camber in back. Is that gonna be an issue?

I've got one here in Florence, Alabama with no rust that you can have for free-it's in my way. Came off an early 260z-no vents. It has a shallow smooth dent that any body shop should be able to fix easily. Come on up and we'll do some drag racing while you are here!

It looks like I'm gonna need something like a +20-ish offset in either a 17 or 18 X 9" rim. Unfortunately, it looks like Rota RBRs (my favorite wheel) are only available in (-) offsets in that kind of width. The closest I'm finding in an off-the-shelf wheel is a Rota Grid, which has a +25 offset. I guess I could get some of those and run a spacer to achieve a centered wheel/tire....anybody else see some inexpensive wheels that would be close? Even with my extended studs, I think a 3/4" spacer is about all I could fit. Super nice cars, guys. Zack, you must be running stiff springs to deal with those close tolerances!

I don't understand the last two posts ,SUNNYZ and Dans Toy (?). Is that the results of your dyno testing or is that your guesses of what I'm making? I bet I'm not making any more than factory, minus the accessories (AC and PS and underdrive pulley that came with the motor), maybe less for my poorly designed, but tight fitting, exhaust. I think my good 1/8 mile times are just a result of the slicks and the 2-step allowing me to let it rip without having to be a good driver/clutch man. The variation of reaction times and mphs show the truth about the driver. I'm eager to get back to the strip, but the next racing opportunity is autocross, so I'm staying set up for that (rear camber/tires).

Perhaps his auto-spell-correct is changing it on him. Sometimes I can't even read my posts because of all the changes the darn computer makes on its own without my permission.

I need to check and see what kind of dyno it is. I need to call him this week to talk more about how he wants the car set up.

I've got lousy stock Datsun gauges, so I'm gonna have to have the operator monitor them, then mark my gauges with sharpies in lieu of gauge replacement (for now). Last time to the strip, my H2O temp gauge said 240, wfritts911 plugged his little box into my data port and found the H2O temp to be 205. I know where normal temp is and I know where it runs when doing a lot of full-power driving, but I don't know where DANGER HOT- OH CRAP SHUT IT DOWN FAST hot is. I'm gonna go thru the drivetrain with a torque wrench and double check all my fasteners before I go too. Are there particular maneuvers he will likely have me do, or just warm it up, get it into 4th gear and nail it?

Thanks! Keep it coming. The shop is Fast Lane near Huntsville, AL. Lane Colvard will be doing the tuning. His business shares the dyno at Hinson Super Cars.

Slicks or street tires?

Finally taking car to dyno with an LSx specialist. Gonna get baseline and any additional power he can give me. Also gonna tune out as much throttle run-on as I can to get car to compression brake better for autocrossing. Any other pointers? I've never been to a dyno shop before. May13 is the big day.

It won't hurt anything to run you tires backwards if you just want to swap them and see if it changes your pull. I've mixed mine up before and didn't realize it till a buddy pointed it out.

I feel bad for you-in my state you just tell them you want a license, give them the money and put on your tag. Sometimes you gotta have your wife hold your rifle while you put the tag on. But then again, it rains here and you gotta smoke weed indoors, so there is that to deal with. Keep fighting the man-I can't wait to see a video of you ripping down the street.

Dans toy- what is the budget from stock to strip? Please include any cam, fuel pump, injector, computer tuning, intercooler, dyno safety check and cooling mods neede/advised. Assume new parts and self install. Any advice about used kits? You are solid rear with coilovers and four-bar/anti-squat, right? What is your trans/stall?

Thank you so much. That helps a lot. Exactly what I was hoping for. I may PM you in the future with follow up questions. Thanks!

Inspecting the car after an autocross test and tune day in a heavy rain followed by the autocross the following day (Sat/Sun), the only issue I have found is a loose strut rod in the left rear. I will have to move over the camber plates to fix that, so it isn't as simple as just tightening it up. The previous autocross cost me a gushing leak at the left rear caliper and a slow leak at the brake master cylinder (did I say that I hate brake work?). Add that to last year's warped clutch and you have the total of the equipment failures I've had since doing the swap and beating on the car pretty hard. Was very traction limited at the autocross, but I was super lucky and just scored a set of Hoosier A6s in the correct (I hope) size from the Parts for Sale section of hybridz.org. Experienced first "wheel hop" when launching car at autocross on my cheap Khumo street tires-tried to limit that as I understand that is the cause of lots of axle failures-so far I haven't had trouble with that at the dragstrip when using slicks. Planning to fix the loose strut Sunday and perhaps get to the strip one day next week for some 1/8th mile-wanna try out Lawrenceburg, TN's dragstrip-I hear it is nice. Next autocross is on May 18th.

Who did you deal with at Koni? Good deal? My right front Tokico Illumina has lost all rebound dampening, so I'm moving slowly toward Konis.

Anybody got any info on a booster delete conversion? I saw one at an autocross on an F-prepared 240z that was fast as hello. He had no trouble stopping. I only got to talk to him briefly-stock master cyl with relocation of the push-rod hole in the pedal. He was in a hurry and I didn't get to study it much. My master is leaking (again) and I never got the booster-to-master rod adjusted correclty, so it is a good time for me to do this mod in conjunction with the Wilwood 1" master conversion. Anybody?

Talk to Dans Toy.

I recommend a .45 caliber or a .50 caliber. The boys over at Ft. Bragg have a few you can borrow! Seriously, don't bother with the Maxima rear calipers (that's what I have)-try to figure out a way to use either a front caliper from a 240/280z or a rear caliper from a Z32. I hear good things from the drifting community about Z32 rear calipers. Don't know what you gotta do about bracketry or rotors.

Thanks zack_280. That's good news. Pictures if you got 'em! Might be worth a trip to drive up and meet you, see car and do an autocross in Nashville or something...

This is a sequel to a thread by another member currently running which asks: "Who is running 16X8s in unflared fenders?" I thought I would raise the stakes a little and ask about the wheel size I'm hoping to jam into my fenders. I'm currently in the process of upgrading my autocross footware to Hoosier A6s and it looks like I might be able to go up in width from what I currently 225/50/16 Khumos via coilovers and camber plates. I'm thinking that by increasing the wheel diameter, I can run more backspacing. If I look at the attached video, there's room for more! Looking for thoughtful input, preferrably personal experiences.

That helps a lot, but didn't totally relieve the noise for me.

I have the same problem when making low speed turns like from a stop sign or when driving around the autocross paddock or a parking lot. I think this is LSD"chatter" which is when the clutches stick then release suddenly instead of slipping at a smooth rate.