RebekahsZ

I don't know about the Camaro gearbox, but with the GTO gearbox, 2nd is too short. It would be nice if I could shift with some sense of rhythm, but 1st, 2nd, and 3rd all have their own tempos at WOT-and 2nd is in-then-out (no dirty feedback). My PM to you about the 3.54 referenced my experience with the GTO box.

Managed to get -3 on the passenger side and -2.7 on the driver side by raising the rideheight 3/8" and rotating the EMI camber plate so that the front hole is max-in and the rear hole is pushed in one less bolt hole, so it also rotates the top of the strut backward a little (increasing caster?). Gonna have alignment shop make it -3.00 on both sides by playing with the length of the LCA.

You sure are lucky you got 2 good feet, as much as you been a-walkin'! ....and why you foolin' around gettin' a girlfriend?? Ain't nobody got time for that! And a house? I can hear it now: "guys, I didn't get my axles done, cause I had so many honey-dos..." Heck, I just Round-up-ed my whole yard so I won't have to waste good wrench time mowing until July-that is committment to the sport. Givin' me crap about my 2-step! Next thing I know you're gonna make another trailer crack! I had a blind guy come in today wanting surgery, and I told him he had to wait 2 weeks since I had an alignment appointment scheduled for this Thursday after my scheduled surgeries. What is wrong with people! I just couldn't make him understand that I had to keep my priorities straight! (then I broke down and added him to the schedule-hope it goes smoothly and I can get my car aligned before heading out on Friday). Talkin' trash...keep up the good work!

shupee-I have a shiro VLSD that I would part with complete with axles-very resonable. PM me if interested.

Replying to Will by PM.

Cheating? Apples to apples? If you spray, how am I gonna deal with that? I just read the timeslips, fellas. My last trip to the strip, last summer, was for the 1/4, so that best 1/8-mile time was from the mid-track timing lights. And that was with a spare tire on board. I've never been that fast on the true 1/8th (hopefully due to my bad diff ratio). My best at an 1/8-mile track has been 7.29, I think. The real 60' and ET improvements came with the clutch controlled 2-step - I just go thru the motions and keep it pointed straight. I had no exhaust system then either, so I won't be surprised if I slow down some from that extra weight. I sure thought the track lady at Centerville said Saturday they were gonna have some money races for stick shift street cars on Saturday night. But, she said "no delay boxes," so I don't know if she's including 2-steps in that. If I don't get to use my 2-step, I may be a trainwreck. Sorry, I think I'm thread jacking, so I'll get back to work. Really looking forward to Saturday-still wating on headers. Oil change tonight (the second one since I did the motor swap).

So you gonna be LS-equipped at Talledega?

I think it just depends on how much mechanical leverage your pedal has, and how much wear there is in the pedal assembly. Every builder seems to require a different length. I had to go all the way to 1" master, but I would do well to weld up the hole in the pedal and re-drill it round again. I also am running a stock MC rod; I should probably use the wilwood rod.

Friend, please call me at 256-366-4685 tomorrow after 2pm. The serious dudes on this forum may vaporize you in 3,2,1..... Ill talk you thru it.

I have 7 used differentials on my shelf-none of the front seals have leaked. Might be just as easy for you to buy one of the used diffs advertised on the forum and just swap'em. Anybody know if you can remove and replace the seal with diff in car, or do you have to press out pinion?

Just read this whole thread-at the beach/women are shopping. Missing my car 7 hours away. Sun and sand cant compete with fuel and rubber. Enjoyed every line. Keep up the good work!

They all whine-kind of like people. It lets you know it is alive. A lot of nitrous guys run a second fuel pump-I just talked to 1QUICKZ-the fastest guy on our Timeslips page: he grenaded his nitrous motor last race due to fuel starvation. A lean mixture is instant death for those guys. It is better to have your return far from your pickup to avoid aeration of the fuel, although I can't imagine the air wouldn't rise pretty quickly. If you look inside a stock tank, the return is outside the baffle/sump. On a carbureted tank, the return is separated from the pickup by a wall. You did well.

Wfritts-are those used tires? I'm gonna rat you out on your Rotas. I'm proud of you both-I've spent like the US Congress on mine!

Every married car guy has the same struggle. I've been working thru it for 25 years. I have got almost 20 years on this paint job and it has held up-just don't stand to close to it and it looks great. My wife didn't get cool about the car until I started the Ls swap, what-2years ago?. I am super thankful because her support has made it so much more fun. Now, she's not out there wrenching with me, but she isn't complaining all the time and being spiteful like she was for the first 18 years. It has been a major improvement.

I was trying to imagine exhaust clearance around that tranny mount and I couldn't see how you would be able to access the bolts to drop the tranny. JCI has the simplest tranny mount, but it could be optimized for exhaust clearance.

You know they have pills for that now, johnc! The lunatics are running the asylum! I guess I'll just figure this out when the probe arrives. I just heard from my header coaters and they are taking Good Friday off so I may get my headers in time to install them Wednesday night (in stead of monday) and be at alignment shop on Thursday.

Sources for tire pyrometer with probe? How deeply do you probe? Just found longacre economy probe for $100 at racer parts wholesale thru amazon. I read accompanying artical that explained things pretty well. If nobody objects, I'm gonna get one of these in the mail. Stupid question: can I flat my tire with the probe? I usually run my race tires until they show cords.

The second fitting on the sump is for running a redundant fuel supply system for nitrous. Save it for then and go ahead and use your stock return as you planned. Hang in there, the fuel was the most miserable part of my conversion-or was it the brakes? Hated them both. Looking back it was worth it but don't want to do it again.

I have some rust bubbling in the lapped joints between the rear valance and the rear quarters. I'm just living with it. More power next winter, safety the next, paint the next. The older I get, the easier it seems to put things off. Focusing on driving during the warm months. Within a year of your restoration, paint will bubble or crack somewhere-or somebody will belt-buckle your front fender-just go ahead and get emotionally ready for it.

I don't have a spring in my upper hose.

Oh, this morning is just like Christmas-I'm hearing from most of the guys I was hoping to hear from! I'm not worried about my street tires-they don't see much action anymore. 90% of my driving last year was in 7-second, full-throttle bursts. I'm listening to each bit of advice. My TTT adjustable front LCAs are on the shortest adjustment. I posted my full setup on the FAQs page for a couple of days but just got responses when I moved it here.

Thanks! Can you give me a quick lesson on checking tire temps? I'm a 1-man show and I imagine the tires cool pretty quick after a run. Tell me the routine. I have one of those infrared pyrometers-is that the tool to use? I bet I will need to be systematic and get out of the belts quickly?

Sorry folks-I need to be more clear. I can think of several ways to reduce my camber from -3.5 to -3.0. (The easiest would be to reduce to the 2.5 hole and have the alignment guy widen my track to achieve -3.0) I phrased my question poorly. I may elect to run it at -3.5 since last time I ran at -3.0 I was still wearing lots more on the outer edge of the tires. But I'm sure that can just as easily be related to me being a novice driver. I was really just fishing for some driving experience/impressions/testimonials about excess camber. Hoping a few of the serious autocrossers will weigh in. Maybe a little friendly chit chat on the subject with me intently listening?

That is super cool!!

I'm using EMI camber plates which have bolt holes instead of slots. Any of you road racers or autocrossers running with -3.5 degrees front camber? I'm just mocking up, then taking car for final alignment next week. Wanted to see if anybody could help me chose between -2.5 and -3.5 as I can't seem to hit -3 on the nose. Car is seeing minimal street time. (Mostly jack stand time lately). First autocross in a couple years is next Saturday. Please share your thoughts.