RebekahsZ

Even though I have addressed my needs with cubic inches.....There is a lot of merit to building smaller. I'm working on getting into land speed events, and the big trend there is to try to do more with less. It isn't that hard to go 200 with a blown big block. But to go much faster is a real safety issue and you can spend a lot more time and money trying to make sure you don't die than you do trying to go fast. I think the guys who are going 150-200 with 1.5ci are having JUST as much fun as the guys trying to go 400 with 500ci. And they are doing it cheaper and safer. Don't knock your little engine.

My pedal is drive by wire, so the toe strap requirement is kinda sketch. I went to an event governed by the sanctioning body and talked with the T.I. He told me that if the pedal, harness, and throttle body actuator were all from the same car and were OEM to the engine, that the toe strap requirement was waved for DBW pedals. Not exactly on subject but related. Your car is awesome.

I think steering shaft conflicts was the reason I went to the passenger side.

I have an LS2 harness and computer, which is smaller than the LS1 version and a bit tidier. I worried a lot about needing to insulate my computer from heat and vibration. But, it has been fine just sheetmetal screwed to the inner fender where the battery used to be (my battery is in the rear hatch (trunk). I think it would be similarly fine on the other side where the windshield squirt system used to be, but it's just more crowded over there.

Freakin awesome!

No, I have left my engine bay "un-braced" to allow me to keep my options open. The firewall is so flimsy that I really didnt see a significant benefit when compared to the trade-offs. But I DO think it is a good idea in principle. Sounds like you have considered the issue in advance and that is all I wanted to bring up. You got it under control. Can't wait to see the "finished" product. While you have the welder out, think about making a hood pin system so that you can ditch the stock hood latch bracket-it sucks when the cable breaks, and that bracket can be a major clearance issue when installing a V8.

Damn, you are doing a nice job!

I'm definitely not trying to take a swipe at you, cause that's no fun, but: have you trial fit the engine around the strut to firewall braces? I would only be concerned about having trouble getting the engine in and out...

Cut the whole end of the circle off beyond the ball joint mounting bolts-it serves no purpose beyond the mounting bolts, anyway!

Ok. I started in similar fashion by lowering my car with cut down stock springs. You probably want to baby it across any type of seam in the road like a bridge abutment or train crossing. That metal to metal feeling really hurts. It was at that point that I started developing cracks in my A-pilar and B-pilar. I know those cracks are common, but before I cut my springs I was crack free.

I would have to look back, but my Z became a hybridz two or three years ago. My build thread was about 50/50 split between useful info and criticism from other guys who still haven't finished their cars. I started with the car that I got at Ft. Rucker and drove at Ft. Bragg. It sat in my mom's garage whe I was stationed at Ft. Ord to keep it out of the salt air, then it sat in her garage again when I was in residency at Galveston, TX. By the time I started my engine swap the paint was decent but 15 years old. I can't imagine doing a full-on restoration/engine swap. That takes a lot of endurance. I did the engine swap (LS2) largely because I was tired of rebuilding carbs. The extra 300 hp was a bonus! Hang in there. PM me anytime you feel like kicking the cat.

Sorry-you never know who wants comments and who doesn't. Here goes: looks freakin awesome! Keep up the great work. BTW-cute kids too! Subscribed and following.

Did you section the strut tubes?

Tony D-youv'e had too much egg nog.

The S30 spindle pin demon never sleeps! Will, do you know what size bit was used to drill the holes so the guys can buy a bit and rheem the paint out of the holes before they put the bolts in?

When I saw the title of this thread, I thought you were talking about rust! Like your car has termites-haha!

Thank you to the Moderators and others who set up hybridz.org and who keep it going!

My reason for putting oil in the shock tube is so I can get the shock out later-they can rust into place! Lots of threads by frustrated members who can't get their shock out if the tube.

I ditto the bellhousing bolts issue-maintain access to them. If installing the motor from the front over the radiator support, the tight spot for me was between the rear of the plastic intake manifold and the hood latch bracket on the firewall when tipping back the engine to get it in. Cut that bracket off and use hood pins and you might get an inch farther back.

The proportion valve will really only be functional if you install rear brakes that work really well-essentially as well as the fronts. After 25 years of Z ownership, I only recently had rear brake lockup issues after I did the AZC front and rear kit and installed racing quality pads. Then I went to a road course with an instructor. As the pads got hotter, they became more efficient faster than my tires. So I had to reduce rear brake pressure using the proportion valve. Once the tires got hotter and stickier, I could tolerate more rear brake without rear lockup. We were practicing late-braking into corners and I kinda sucked at it and had a tendency to panic and apply too much initial pedal. It was only under these circumstances that I used my proportion valve, I really didnt néed it for street driving. I'm glad I installed it where I could easily reach it fr the drivers seat with the belts cinched tight.

I would be willing to input the info for my car.

PM me of you have a 100% rust free S30 rolling chassis and you want to walk away right now!

If you have all the parts already laying around, are a good welder and machinist and can get all your materials for free, you can do it for FREE. I have had my Z for 25 years and stopped saving receipts when I hit $15k in about 1994 when it still had a 6-cyl in it. It very much depends on when you say you are finished. Engine in the car and started once? With new drivetrain that can handle the power? All new wiring? With new tires? New interior? Paint? Rust repair? Brakes? Suspension? I do 1-2 track days a year, 1-4 autocrosses per year , drag race about 10 times a year and am hoping to start doing standing mile twice a year. And I daily drive it when I need to (every day for last 2 months). It breaks so i fix it, i wear out tires so i buy more-I'll never be finished. My advice is: don't start until you have $15k laying around. You might do it for a lot less, but I would hate to see you get started and have to quit because you ran out of money. Or be really patient, cause Meatwad is right. But, I'm not patient.

I may have a new "man crush." Thanks for posting!

I need a set 1/2" longer still! PM me a PN if you come across one.