RebekahsZ

PM sent to Dat570z.

Thank you. So, you run continuously with the blast cabinet same as my buddy with the 60 gal? So in not seeing a benefit to going 80 instead of 60. I'm learning something from every comment. Thanks fellas. The mason is laying the bricks on the exterior of the shop today!

I will do that. Thanks for that suggestion-I often forget Craigslist.

Thanks, man. I've always had cheap, crappy tools, and my dad managed with very little in the way of power tools. So, I don't really know how to take care of stuff like this. I talked to a couple of buddies who also leave their compressors with pressure in them when they walk away for the day. Dad thought that was bad for his compressor so we always had to start with an empty tank and drain it at the end of the day. And just about all I know is from watching dear ole Dad. Thanks got filling in a bunch of blanks in my experience. Some day I will be the old salty one.

Last post was the prior week's weigh in. Down 6.2 pounds now. I wonder how hard it would be to cut 6# off the car? Other than the dash, there isn't much left to toss. Fruits and vegetables only today.

The angle on that strut makes me think that the tire will be farther forward in the wheel arch...no? Could be camera angle. You have been a machine this winter!

From the way mine feels, the elbow bashing is really only a problem when I turn the wheel such that my hand is at the bottom most point on the wheel. I can solve the problem by shuffling my hands, but my coach wants me to stop my autocross-inspired hand shuffling and stay locked in at 10&2. Seems like tilting the wheel down would really help too if that were possible. Lean your seat back a bunch to straighten those arms and that will help too. I'm thinking about a smaller steering wheel too-after power steering. Try to maximize the little things before ripping the heart out of the car. I did not do a steering wheel quick release as it only seemed to lengthen the column. I have finally adapted to the longer reach on the clutch pedal required by moving my seat back another notch. Compromise is a cruel mistress.

So the rod end that failed was at the inside pivot of the LCA where it bolts to the crossmember.

Big day! Congrats!! Totally AWESOME-woohoo! For some reason I always pictured you as an old codger.....not so! Good to meet you and the family-your daughter sounds like your biggest fan. But, I think you need some wider tires. I like that power steering.

I can't wait to see what effect it will have on power. Please post those results when you have them.

Which heim joint snapped? I'm about to convert from stock outer tierod ends to DP outer tie rod ends. I'm doing it because I don't like the kink in the stock tierod ends and how it puts the inner tierod at an angle on a modestly lowered car, and I seem to go thru those hard to find inner tie rods faster than I think I should. My concern with raising the inner control rod pick up point is that with the big rod end that is on a TTT front LCA, I don't see room to raise the pickup point even a full bolt-hole width. So it seems like too much sugar for a dime to me. My car is twitchy in the rear because I sonetimes fail to get my steering wheel straightened up before piling on the brakes just before turn-in. Probably not you, but so far, every handling problem I have had (I am very, very inexperienced), has been traceable to the driver. I used to laugh at guys who thought a Z needed power steering, but now that I have tracked a car with 10" of sticky rubber on each corner, I'm a believer.

Good morning John. I'm still needing more dumbing down (we've talked before and you know I'm a bit of a simpleton). So, the hp rating is for the compressor, not the motor, aha! And I guess having more compressor on the tank would fill it faster?

Tony D. Sir, I need you to dumb it WAY down for me, just like I would if I were discussing your up-coming eye surgery (father time gets us all eventually). Im trying to decide between models that I can have delivered off a truck and that a friend and I can wrestle into place on a Saturday. I'm looking at new units ranging from $800-$1300. Probably not best, but that's the paradigm I'm working within. As a layman, the pump performance behavior that I have experienced is this: can it spin my tools to a high enough rpm (have only had trouble with a cutoff wheel, so I bough an electric one), tank fill time, and frequency of the motor needing to kick on. All my 110V compressors in the past have had trouble in one of these areas, but I have been very space limited in the past. I had a small Craftsman (maybe 20 gal) that cycled on and off and blew my circuit breaker about every other time it kicked on. So I got a bigger one from Lowes. This one was maybe a 40 gal, and it would stay off for longer periods between recharges, never blew the circuit and was much more quiet, but it took FOREVER to fill. So much so that when it died after 2 years (repair parts could not be found) of occasional use, I bought a little small one (maybe 5 gal) like a contractor would use for a nail gun. It is loud enough to wake the dead, is easy on the circuit, but it fills really quick and is ready to use in less than a minute. But, it has to recharge after filling less than one tire, gives me just enough slaps with my impact wrench to pull a front flange on a diff, blow sawdust in my eyes, or get a koni adjuster jammed when installing a shock. It is great for those quick jobs because of the fast fill time, and honestly, 99% of the time those little quick jobs is what I'm doing in my shop. It runs continuously while filling a tank to 100psi to take to the track for tire filling and sharing air with other guys (that somehow sounds a little weird), but Ive made a lotta friends with that little tank. Now I want a 220v compressor on its own circuit that would allow me to get a blasting cabinet, use a cutoff wheel or wire brush, rough painting (suspension components, floor pans, etc) and run some air-assisted hydraulic jacks. I will keep the small 120V nail gun compressor because it is so handy. I plan to build a PVC air distribution system with several 50' pull-down air hoses and ports that I can snap into along the walls. This garage will be the Taj Majal, for a hobbiest (not a pro) and I will likely fire up the big compressor once a week for less than a couple hours. Questions: what performance spec determines initial fill time for a compressor? Can i have the convenience of the small tank AND the benefits that are gained by a larger tank? Should I relieve the pressure to zero after each time I use it? Should I drain the water off the bottom everytime I use it? I like your idea of putting a smaller pulley on to reduce rpms and increase lifespan, how does that affect fill time? How does the horsepower rating relate to the factors that I have dealt with?

Making progress in shop cleanup. Also trying to gain 3-4 hp by shaving 30-40 pounds off the driver. I been starving for a month and dropped 3.5 pounds. Damn, Im hungry!

That's gonna be louder for the driver than for the by-stander. Exhaust exiting under car is super loud inside the car. Can you find a way to turn it out? Maybe the turbo will absorb some sound?

Registered for ZCon (all 4 days) in Memphis this coming July. Plan to participate in all Motorsports events, although I will likely skip test and tune at the drag strip on Thursday night and leave drag racing for the last day (carnage risk is high). Cleaning up garage today and ordering a few more parts. Received AZC shortened steering knuckles from a forum member and ordered DP outer tie-rod ends.

Looks like a great car to start with!

Progress is coming along on my new hybridZ shop in my back yard. Without getting too complicated or overly technical, can you fellas give me your recommendation for an air compressor to purchase? It is a 30x30 shop with two lifts. Looking for help with both size and brand. Torn between Harbor Freight and a name brand like Quincey. Also struggling with 60 gal or 80 gal tanks. I'm figuring on 2-stage, 5 hp at this point. Compressor will be indoors inside an insulated room. Any advice will help me.

That's a lotta seat! If you have any trouble with that seat back brace, I am really happy with my AutoPower adjustable seat brace from I/O Port Racing.

I think it's gonna die cause nobody understands your question. And when you try to clarify your question you leave us even more confused. Get a friend (maybe an English teacher) to help you compose your question. Not trying to be mean, just trying to help you get whatever it is you are after.

Get too loud and tracks will ban you. My SCCA autocross club has a dB meter at every event. The track where I do track days has a dB meter too.

Alainburon-let me get this straight: You are using stock LS3 water pump, LS3 harmonic balancer, LS3 tensioner (you bought a fancy one), JCI A/C kit and the LS1 f-body alternator with LS1 f-body alternator brackets and it all lined up well? Was your LS3 out of a particular donor vehicle or is it a crate motor?

I can't believe they care about alignments in government. Don't they have anything better to do?

PM texas300 with the question.

Just order new nuts from Black Dragon. The ZX nut is an interference style locknut. Use anti-seize to avoid galling.