clarkspeed
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Posts posted by clarkspeed
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Balance the lower assembly, get the bearing clearances dead on, ARP rod bolts and main studs, accusump, then go race. Stuff happens sometimes.
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1.4 g on 200TW street tires and 1.6 g on race tires.
Really? That is some serious downforce. That's much more than any of the cars I've worked with.
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At far as caster and camber, Im setting up a car now on jack stands without hubs. A digital angle gauge on strut works fine for locating things.
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I flip mine around all the time. Only use the 2 close holes and shaved the washers to fit together.
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Double A arms are the best solution if legal, no doubt. Every purpose built race car has them for a reason. Better camber control. The Koni upper bushing wear is most common problem. Not sure why it happens in some cars and not others. Weight? I know some 240's that race forever on them. The Bilstein P30's are bullet proof. 450# is no problem. But not an easy task to get the valving right. But it easy to get sort of close.
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On the engine, I also have a Nissan comp pan but have noticed my Accusump working in 6 and 7 before. Seems 6 loads the oil up on left side and then throwing it into 7 really pulls it out of sump. Noticed it most when my oil pump was marginal.
As far as incident, that is tragic. A little oil can make a big problem. On other hand, a couple years ago a guy left his drain plug out and oiled down entire back straight. We ran the race with no problems. BB corvette was running 180 there. My guess is something broke. Especially if he made it to the brake zone.
When I started HPDE many years ago I stuck with the priority of safety, reliability, and then speed. Hans, 5 pt harness, roll bar, and a single pc firesuit are not overkill.
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These are the ones I fabricated using a simple jig. Used a 3/4 x 5/8 for the front rod end and 5/8 x 5/8 for others. Used QA1 rod ends and have about 4 or 5 race weekends on them so far with no problems. Also made some oil-lite bronze bearings for the inner pivot.
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2nd the callout for Sun Central Z Club.
In Orlando,I get all my work done at Dover Cylinder Head if you cant find anything over there.
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Did the oil pressure drop? Turns 6 and 7 will put the oil on 1 side of pan.
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Like the dash wiring. Plugs are a great addition.
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Bob Leitzenger uses them to build his 510 L20's. I would say it is safe that they know what they are doing. They are well known in the vintage racing circles.
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I paid $1200 for my first Quaife 10 years ago. Then they jumped up to $1500-1600. If you want one cheaper, just need the exchange rate to get better.
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That head had a hair cut. Make sure you have correct lash pads installed. And if you notch block, be VERY careful when dropping in pistons so ring doesn't hang up there. Learned that lesson last year.
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Nothing wrong with removing rear bar to help put power down, but it is typically combined with a reduction in front bar stiffness to reduce understeer.
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DLM printing a head is possible. Nascar is doing a lot of prototyping with this method. But it is not cost effective and I would never call it cheap. Figure 3 to 4x cost of castings, but no tooling costs. Dereck's approach is still most economical. In addition, I've never seen a machine capable of printing anything that long. EOS are the most common. The only way to do it right is to section a head and laser scan. Otherwise you will be guessing much of the internal passages. If you could produce an exact 3d model, the printing is easy IF you are working with someone who knows how to run the machine and is familiar with aluminum alloys, not a bunch of grad students. And dont forget you still have the challenge of adding all the machine surfaces to the correct datums after printing. Not an easy task, just ask Derek.
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Like Johnc said, you will need to balance your braking aggressivness with trying to get about 2 hours of life out of pads. You would be surprised what lap times you can get by rolling on and rolling off the pedal. Solid, consistent, threshold braking will only gain a .1 or .2 seconds on most turns and is usually the last thing a pro driver tries to squeeze out. From turn in to apex is where the magic happens.
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Scary. Glad you are ok.
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Most importantly, never forget to take the pin out when on track. A SCCA racer in a 944 got burned to death at Daytona a few years ago. Its a long way from the banking to a corner working station. Check, double check, triple check.
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I just returned from a visit to the largest casting supplier in Germany. Amazing stuff going on there, investment castings down to .4mm thick, 3 x 3 meter cnc'd sand castings, custom alloys mixed on site....but this project still blows me away. Derek thanks for taking us through the steps so people can see just how ambitious this really is. It definitely makes a statement to your skills and capabilities.
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I saw this ad from QA1 in my new Circle Track magazine. They are now building a inverted strut for the fox body Mustang that is fully rebuidable or can be ordered sealed. I took a picture of the ad since there is not much info on the internet about it except for a video from SEMA. Anyway, looks on the surface like something that could be adapted over to an S30 spindle.
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I had a 2.3 cobra stern drive in a boat I used to have. Always wanted to drop an Esslinger mini-stock motor in there. They even cast their own blocks.
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I saw this website awhile back. Shows how to modify a Bilstein shock to make adjustable. Looks MUCH easier than modifying the Tein struts in that video. Plus all the valves are available with no modification. I know of 2 sets like this in existence and the guy who runs them is very fast indeed.
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I met the CRP guys at the MSX Expo last week. They had samples of their metal infused plastic called Windform. Seems the way to go for a one-off intake manifold.
More positive camber with GC plates?
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
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Perfect