clarkspeed
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Posts posted by clarkspeed
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What size are they? All the same? Did you measure them?
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I need just (1) 0.230 Lash Pad to complete my head rebuild. I have many other sizes in my collection if you want to trade even for a different size.
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Drive it like you stole it.
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How many driving simulators allow you to take 2 of your friends along for the ride? I saw this monster at the PRI show last weekend and took a quick video with my camera. I think these things run $80-90k.
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During my race weekend at Sebring in October I decided to strap the bullet camera under the fender to see what was happening. It was a little less dramatic than I thought it would be, but certainly useful. From the still shots I could determine the the compression maxed out around 1.75" and the droop or extension was about 0.75". I had been reading some threads on here about limiting droop, and by my best estimate, I should still have over 200# of weight on the outside wheel during cornering. My front springs are 400# and the roll bar is 1".
I was surprised how little steering input was required to drive the track. The hairpin turn only required a few more degrees of turn. I was also surprised by the limited suspension travel. Sebring is known as a bumpy track and I expected 2-3" of bump.
I may try some shots of the rear suspension next or some different angles.
The attached video starts with turn 17, a long sweeping fast right hand shift to 4th on exit. Followed by the "front straight", light brake, then a high speed 80+ mph sweeping left hander at Turn 1.
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True, nothing is impossible. How about "much more difficult, risky, and not very practical". I'm a manager in manufacturing and if I say impossible, I would get fired.
Funny, I match-ported an installed head last week with a vacuum and lots of balled up paper towels. No problem.
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I think it would be impossible to remove them with the head still on the engine. The valves need to be removed. And you would drop metal shavings all inside the chambers if you tried.
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It's not too bad, I've done it before. A hammer and sharp chisel will take them out. Once you split them, they will fold in on themselves and can be removed. Light blending required on the scratches that are left. HOWEVER, most people on this board do not recommend this procedure. You can search for the reasons.
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I'm not a carb guy, but it is definitely running rich.
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The parts would make for a nice conversion. The car sounded awesome when he put the pedal down, I think the exhaust had been modified. If they try to repair it, I don't think anyone would want to own it again. I'm guessing repair parts + labor + depreciation = $100k
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I was working in the front yard today. One block from my house I heard an engine rev, burnout from the stoplight, shift to 2nd gear, and them WHAM. I didn't see exactly what happened but this dude must have been showing off for his girlfriend and buddy sitting in the back seat, lost it, hit the curb, spun 180, side-slapped a block wall lined with trees, then spun another 180 back into the street. The guy in the back seat was shaken up and taken to the hospital but everyone was ok. Only the door air bags went off. There appeared to be heavy alcohol consumption involved. They made quite an effort trying to drive away before the cops came. The guy said "It just turned on it's own like something broke". As soon as it happened there was some guy at the stop light who saw the whole thing, screaming at the top of his lungs, "That's the stupidest f_ing a_hole thing ever!"
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204 HP and 189 Ft-lbs. That's what my butt dyno says. Maybe more if you rev it past 5000 RPM.
When is dyno trip planned? I want to watch to make sure there is no cheating.
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Somehow I don't think they are rotating but I guess they could be. I used locktite on these already. New bolts, lockwashers, locktite,lock wire or a combination could all be solutions. The last time it almost seemed like they relaxed instead of rotated because they were hard to turn out against the locktite. Of course I could have overtorqued them trying to fix the problem and yielded some threads or the bolts. It just seems strange to me the design would allow movement here.
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I did some searching and didn't find anything releated to the problem I have. My car sees only track use so heavy stresses are the norm. It seems the steering knuckles want to move and twist around during heavy braking and cornering. I thought it was bad ball joints at first and replaced them. After some troubleshooting I found that following a good 30 minute session, the 2 bolts that hold the knuckle to the strut housing start to lose torque no matter how much I tighten them. I haven't measured yet, but it looks like there are are roughly .005" clearance on each bolt shank to steering knuckle which ends up being a large movement in the tie rod. I also thought the bolt holes in my knuckles might be worn oversize, but I have a few knuckles laying around and they all seem to have the same hole diameter. I used to run a set of the bump spacers in between but removed them a few years ago. I noticed today that the original setup had an o-ring that goes at the base of the spigot fit which I am missing. It probably doesn't help that ball joint grease had coated this entire area so it's not rusted together like a stock 30 year old car might be.
Anyway, whatever I do to fix this needs this to fix it for good. In my mind, cleaning the grease, replacing the bolts, adding back the o-ring might not be enough. I was considering adding a roll pin or some other way to lock the 2 parts together. Has anyone had this problem before?
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Yes I forgot, Master Cylinder First! Then far to near corners.
As far as bottom bleeders, I can only comment on my own experiences and practices wich may or may not apply to your setup. My AZC Wilwood setup is an older one. I've had problems getting air out after I fully evacuated the system more than once. Bleeding the bottom seemed to make the problem go away. I had to do it again 6 months ago after yanking the rear calipers off and my line plugs didn't hold overnight. All the fluid drained out of the rear MC and calipers. After bleeding the top bleeders twice, I couldn't get a hard pedal until I remembered I blead the bottom out last time the same thing happened. Low and behold, a hard pedal. And yes, the bottom bleeders are pointed DOWN.
If only bleeding the top bleeders works for you, that's great. If the pedal is still soft after a few rounds, don't be afraid to try it!
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If the system has been fully evacuated, I bleed them all. Starting right rear and finishing left front. In order of inside down, outside down, inside up, outside up. If the system was broken, I only tap the top bleeders inside then outside. If only flushing fluid, I only tap the top outside screw. I always bleed with a friend's foot on the pedal.
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I never had a problem with the Wilwood rotors. I'm on my 3rd set, and they last a long time. I kept torqueing them, checking the runout, removing, rotate 1 bolt hole, retorque, check runout, etc. until it went away. They are very sensitive to how you torque them. I use the straight vane rotors (HD I think?) because they are cheap and cool plenty well enough. I've never had turned them.
As far as pads, I never liked the Wilwood stuff either. Not track, autocross, or street. I race Hawk blues and also use their street pads on my truck.
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Sweet! It looks so much better than the 4 shades of gold you had. Now you have really made my car look bad.
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That's a clean installation!
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Yea Sparks, that's why I didn't cut the pilars. Scared the hell out of me. But my mechanic friend insists that's the best way to do it and saves time. I will never know.
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I cut out a skin from a donor car about as big as I could cut it and welded it on top of the old one, covering the hole. Not show car quality but plenty good for racing. I ground the welds down nice and flat and used a little filler. To get it perfect, I think you need to cut the donor roof at the pillars.
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I have 1.75 superlites in front and 1.75 dynalites in rear. I ran at Daytona in November with this setup for the first time and needed a lot of rear bias. Was thinking about changing a MC. But then I ran Sebring in March and had to adjust back close to the middle. In between I made some camber changes and revalved the shocks. I also ran less fuel and the track was much colder at Sebring.
I still have the stock front lines running under the frame rails. I suppose a bulkhead connector would give a nice finished look.
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Wow that's quite a spreadsheet. Mine is pretty elaborate but stops a little short of that. The problem is my computer was stolen and I only have an earlier version. So I guess I'm sort of recreating it now even thought my brake system is already installed and track tested satisfactory. I will play with yours and see if it predicts the same braking G's I measured with data acq.
Jon you are correct again. My MC rod is located at near the stock location which roughly measures 3.25" from the pivot point. That gives a 4.2 pedal ratio, same as stock. I don't know where the other number came from, maybe the Wilwood pedals I almost installed.
I am running 3/4 front and 7/8 rear MC's. According to my calcs, and with the corrected pedal ratio input, results in roughly 30% more pedal pressure to get the same results. So instead of 80lb of foot pressure, it now takes 105. That's probably about right. It takes a little more muscle but nothing like a Skip Barber car. All of my calcs are going from 15/16" stock MC to duals wth AZC front and rear Wilwood setup.
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I thought I put it where the old hole was. I'm going to the shop this weekend to confirm. Wish I still had pics.
Wanted to Buy or Trade: (1) 0.230" Lash Pad
in Parts Wanted
Posted
Bump,