clarkspeed
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Posts posted by clarkspeed
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I've negotiated some decent pricing from a local circle track supplier on fuel cells. Both ATL Sport Cell and Fuel Safe Enduro Cells are available. Both of these cells are FIA FT-3 approved, designed to withstand impact, steel container, foam filled, and legal for most forms of road racing. Check your rulebook for legality. These are NOT the cheap rubber or plastic cells many of the drag racers use. Check out:
I can get the Fuel Safe Enduro, ED115, 15 gal for $450
ATL Sport Cell, SP115, 15 gal for $430
I willing to pass along my savings if anyone is inerested. Price does not include any shipping charges or tax if you live in FL. Other sizes are available. Some sizes they keep in stock and others would need to be ordered from the factory. Any interest?
Clark
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That's interesting on the PVC. I thought my sch 10 bowed a little too much. I assumed if I ever did this again, I would use the sch 40 to strengthen. By your notes I will stick with the thin stuff, just add more braces. It's cheaper too.
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Unfortunately you're going to see a lot of old SCCA GT cars for sale real cheap. Rule changes are going to make them expensive to update.
John,
What changes will make them expensive to update? The only only thing I've seen is the weight penalty for IRS. I was thinking about picking up a GT-2 Datsun if one came up in my price range.
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I don't need a system but I thought I would post an endorsement for anyone sitting on the fence. I've been very happy with it. The company stands behind their product and it is a quality product. I had a key on the programmer crap out and had the new one in about a week.
For the price, SDS can't be beat. Laptop is not required, and you can program while driving. I honestly think the thing is better than most OEM systems through the 80's.
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I did similar deal. I "encapsulated" the entire car, floor and ceiling, with a big roll of plastic ordered from McMaster Carr. Hung it all on PVC frame. Use at least 1/2" SCH 40. I also ordered a stack of cheap AC filters. I stacked 3 $10 fans in the side doorway blowing through the filters into the "booth". I raised the (2-car) garage door up about 2' and lined filters across the opening for the outlet. I figured it would keep the neighbors from complaining. Sealed everyting with duct tape and put halogen lamps around the perimeter. Worked great. Paint came out perfect, I just wish my body work was better.
I tried this one other time a few years ago and wet the floor down. When I was on the 2nd coat the floor dried out from the fans and 3 months of bondo dust came up out of my concrete which I had scrubed clean. I also had a dozen or so bugs fly in. Such is life in Florida.
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Maximum power: 108,920 hp at 102 rpm
Maximum torque: 5,608,312 lb/ft at 102rpm
These pictures are cool. You gotta like an engine with ladders into the oil pan.
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I just had a set of Brute Force installed at a local driveline shop. They gave me the old set in a box with part number 1-0029BF
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Whew! I can wait another 40 years before that happens again.
I was very lucky through all of this. Didn't even lose power. Spent 2 days cleaning up the yard though. Lost my DSL. Seems the storm was so compact, moving so fast, that West Orlando didn't get any more than 50-60 MPH winds. I couldn't have been more than 10 miles from the eye. The east side of a huricane is always more brutal. If any of you Florida dudes need help, let me know.
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To each his own. I guess everyone has a different view on what a street engine should be. Personally, I've never liked driving a race engine on the street and consequenty never liked racing a street engine. Anything in between is a compromise.
Bottom line for me, if you're going to go triples, you might as well get a cam that allows you to use them for what they're good for--3K and up power. They aren't good for 1500 rpm pulls, if that's what you want you should sell the trips, buy some ported SU's and get the smaller cam.You can tune the trips for a good bottom end torque also. A friend of mine, best webber tuner I know, built an excellent set up street 10:1 L28 240 recently. I know he choked down the carbs some. He ended up with around 480" lift. Good gas mileage, and instant power off idle. Waste of good carbs? It still looks, drives, and sounds cool to me.
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Keep in mind the compression of your motor has impact on how much cam you want to run. If your going to be over 10:1 with the flat tops and P90 you can run pretty good lift. If your at 9.5 or so then you will be limited more. I've been playing with cams for awhile trying to get the most power on pump gas (10.5:1). I ended up with 490 lift/290 duration being about the best. However, I RACE on this set up and I don't really like it at all on the street. Idle at > 1200 and dead until 3.5k on RPM. Great power 3.5-7k though. I had an old cam a couple of years ago I loved on the street. It had about 450 on lift with some extra duration. The bottom end torque on that engine was awesome and mucho fun on the street. I feel bottom end torque is most important for street engine vs. ultamate power. Much more fun to drive around. As much compression as you can stand with mild cam seems to be the best bet.
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I have the HKS now and it does have a large bore. It will give me the side clearance I need if I take it to the limit. Damn near 1/8" on the radius. If I make a square notch down to the top of the ring it's going to look pretty radical and will cost me a few compression cc's. Anyway, it's more than I can do with a hand grinder and will need to be milled.
Are you running a stroker now? I've got a diesel crank on the bench I've been thinking about using...... My question is: What kind of RPM is practical for one of those things. That would determine my cam selection.
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John,
I bought a couple hunderd $ of stuff from Arizona and they threw in the cam sprocket at a considerable discount and free shipping with the other stuff. A surprise to me since they rarely discount so I bought one. I haven't installed it yet but it looks like it should work well. They machine out a ring gear from an existing sprocket and mate it to an aluminum pully.
I don't endorse vendors, but I've never been disapointed with Arizona products or service.
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Yes, 35 is stock and 38 oversize, L28. Sorry about the brain damage.
I think things will fit but I need to notch all out to the head gasket and down to the top ring. What I didn't realize was that it needed to be cut square to get the maximum amount of material out. A typical unschroud angle grind cut will not work. If I get it milled out it will look strange to me. I've never seen this amount of material removed before.
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Does anyone have any experience running a 38mm exhaust valve in a L6 head? I just built up a new head and decided to throw the 38's in there since I needed new valves anyway. I am running a high lift cam which throws them right into the cylinder walls. I know I need to "unschroud" the block to get a fit but it looks like a lot of material to remove. Curious if anyone else has gone through this before.
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Send me you e-mail address and I will send you an Excel spreadsheet you can use. I ended up with TPS load sensing and disconnected the MAP. I have some numbers that should get you in the ballpark. You really need a wide-band O2 sensor like the Inovate LM-1 to dial it in precise.
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3" doesn't give enough back pressure so stick with 2.5" unless you have a monster turbo. I run a Dynomax UltraFlow combined with a short dynomax race glaspack under the car. I love this set up. I prefer the "straight thru" muffler designs over baffles, loops, supertraps, etc.
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ummm, not to be a pain in the ass, but 1g acceleration equates to approximately a 9 second quater mile...
Only if you can maintain it.
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I've ridden the Top Fuel ride twice now. It is a blast, very realistic. My wife loves it more that I do!
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Baffles are a must. I'm over 1g in all directions. Sometimes, on rare ocasions, in the Z axis too!
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I would go for that if it had decent baffles
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Arizona Z makes one for the L6
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If used on the track, consult your rulebook for legality. I prefer ATL or Fuelsafe. They are the best. For street, I don't know any one stands out. You get what you pay for. The foam acts as a baffle.
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It's a trick I learned from another racer. It's only a slight angle change so it doesn't seem to hurt anything. Probably adds a little bump steer but it makes toe setting a breeze. I mis-quoted earlier, run a poly bushing on the front and the adjustable bushing on the rear. You can set the toe without jacking.
I have no idea how I ended up with one pair. If they do come in sets of 4 maybe you can split with someone.
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If you only need to adjust toe, you can buy one pair and install one in the front of each arm.
Group Buy on Fuel Cells?
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
Guess there's not too much interest on this one. Anyway, let me know what you need Mike and I will get you a quote.