chopstic

thanx... I've never used OSPHO, so I think I'll give it a try. Do you think this will still protect well if I am daily driving my car? When I am ready to paint my car, is this stuff the only rust protection I need? Or should I put a coating of rust bullet or por-15 over the top of the OSPHO?

I'm planning on getting some body work done while I'm off work, but I am not ready to finish it all the way through to a full paint job. What can I use to cheaply seal off bare metal areas for a good 6 months - 1 year time frame. I would go with a product like rust bullet, por-15, etc... , but I'm looking to go cheap now and then at a later point in time I'll strip the whole body and use a more expensive rust encapsulator.

Does anybody here own this car? Does anybody know anything about it? It looks absolutely incredible. Custom front air dam? the sides also look as though they hang a bit lower than normal below the door, maybe some sort of molded in side skirts? I love the color scheme.

correct... it only happens when the engine is already warmed up.... like when i stop to get gas and then restart it afterwards.

After my 280z is warmed up it has a hard time restarting and runs VERY rough for the first few minutes. I've been told that I am missing the heat shield, and because of this the injectors are getting heat soaked and thus causing the problem. Does anyone have a picture of the heat shield i need?

The n/a vg30 seems like a great choice to me. I drive my 78 z everyday and would love a mild performing engine that is more powerful and more modern than the old L6. And considering the much lower cost of a n/a vg30 and tranny as compared to the other alternatives (rb26, 2jz, Ls1, etc...) I'm pretty much sold on the idea. My only question is if anyone here has taken the guesswork out of fabricating mounts and positioning them on the frame. Would anyone like to share?

That suede dash with the white stitching is really amazing looking. How much do you think an upholstery shop would charge to make such a thing?

I've been hearing horror stories about our Z cars getting valued very low after an accident by insurance companies. If i get my Z appraised would other insurance companies have to honor that value? For example.... If some driver damages my car and he is at fault for the accident, will his insurance company be liable for the "appraised" value of my car?

I also have a 78 280z, mine had a CD player already in it when i bought it. Last month that stereo broke so i replaced it with a newer unit. Looks like someone just cut a rectangle into the console the right size and made a thin metal bezel just large enough to fit around the stereo unit that frames it in.

Evan... did you find out any prices?

I'm trying to dig up some reference drawings or pics of a Z for a rhinoceros cad project. Like a front, side, rear, and top views to reference in the program. I cant seem to find any decent ones. Anyone know where to find some?

take the throttle body bracket and straighten it flat in a vise then there should be a straight line to connect with linkage...

my only problem is even after i unbolt the mustache bar the differential does not want to lower at all, which makes it extremely difficult to get the mustache bar removed.... Does anyone else have this problem or am i just a retard

im trying to replace the bushing on the mustache bar, but i cant seem to get the mustache bar loose. Do i need to totally disconnect the diff to get it to lower enough to remove the mustache bar?

Im looking to replace a torn up drivers side seat for my 78 280z. I found a few through craigslist that are from 72 and 74 datsuns, will these all fit and look the same as stock?

The guy who owned my z before me had I Z U L8R = I Z(see) you later

Theres been a clunking problem in my car the last couple months. Its coming from the rear of the car and only clunks when i let off the clutch a little too fast or downshift to fast. Any suggestions would be appreciated

858 hp! whats that based on? is there a working model? Im betting its just a prediction, probably about as acurate as the lady down the street from me who PREDICTS things with tarot cards.

mack... are you going to run that on 92 octane?

I just came across a good deal on a complete l28 n42 FI engine out of a 75 datsun. I have decided to go n/a with megasquirt. How much compression can i SAFELY get away with assuming i get megasquirt tuned decently

is there any way to fix a run before applying clear coat, or do i need to reshoot the whole panel?

is it ok to buff/polish base coat before adding clear coat. Will the clear stick to a polished base coat? I'm not the best at spraying paint, so errors sometimes happen in the base coat. It would be nice to just fix the errors, polish, and then spray the clear.

Im just looking for something to replace it with. theres a couple long cracks going through the glass so its pretty much an eyesore to look at. plus the thing is almost worthless since it only tilts open like 10 inches anyways. are there any good sunroofs i could steal from a different car, like the honda prelude style ones that slide back over the roof?

I got stuck with one of those ugly pop up sunroofs on my 280z. I've been looking for something to replace it with and recently came accross this: http://www.streetbeatcustoms.com/ragtopsunroofs.html any opinions? it sounds like a good idea in theory, im just wondering how well these things seal from rain and if they fade quickly.

I bought my 78 z a year ago just to do a v8 swap in, but now i am considering the zx turbo instead. looking around the forum, it looks like a lot of you have your boost turned up pretty high. My car is daily driven, and i really do MEAN daily driven, probably 90-100mi daily because of my long commute to work. I realize that a lot of you might not be driving your cars daily. my question is how much boost can be safely run for a daily driver? i'd like to reach 300rwhp, but the z is my only car, so i need to keep it reliable.