OhBilly

Whatever is going on, it sounds like it's an intermittent problem and like you say, probably related to wiring and/or your possible fuel pump issue. One other thing that could possibly make the fuel pump behave strangely (i.e. sound louder than normal) is a dirty or partially clogged fuel filter. If you haven't checked that filter lately it might be a good time to do so. Might be worth a try before you start adding an additional relay and re-wiring your pump. Good luck.

If you are getting a fluctuating tach readout while holding a constant driving speed it is noise on the tach line and not the tune. When you're in gear and holding a constant speed, your engine speed cannot change. My tach readout fluctuates about as much as yours, and I wouldn't worry too much about it. As long as you don't have large differentials in your spark and/or VE bins between your RPM columns at a constant load, your interpolated bin values won't vary much with a +/- 150 RPM fluctuation. This assumes of course that your RPM values are decently spaced apart (i.e. not 1000, 1050, 1100, etc). Glad you are getting to drive your car now though. It's been about a month since mine has left the garage.

Nope.

I wouldn't scale his maps to fit your kPa range, I would take his maps and get rid of everything above your max kPa. Then add additional rows as needed to fill in the missing kPa lines that cygnus' tune doesn't have (interpolating your new lines as needed). As just an easy starting point though, I would just use his maps as is and not worry about his big kPa range. Your car should run pretty well regardless.

I think you're right about simple EGO correction not changing your VE bins, it is Autotune that does that. However, utilizing EGO correction when your tune is so far out is even worse in that case because your VE bins are not changing. MS is constantly trying to get you into your target AFR zone, iterating over and over until it gets there (if it even has enough time to get there). This is a great recipe to create jitteryness! I would advise using a well established VE map, perhaps one of the last ones posted by cygnusx1 in the map sharing thread. His VE maps are smooth and would be a great starting point. After getting the car started and warmed up on a known decent map, I would drive the car without putting much load on it and watch your AFRs, getting a good idea whether you're running rich or lean. Since you would be running on a pretty smooth map, I would then simply adjust your required fuel value up or down accordingly, a little at a time. Re-drive the car and again watch the AFRs to see if you're closer. Keep doing this until you get it as close as you can. Only then would I turn on EGO correction to let MS fine tune things, but I would make sure that I had a known good AFR map loaded beforehand. With that in mind, it might be a good idea to use a VE map and an AFR map that are known to work well together. I currently am not using EGO correction and don't plan to until I get the tune closer first. Unfortunately I don't have much time to work on the car so it will likely be spring before I get started on it again. It runs pretty well just like it is though...

The AFR targets on your tune, at least the "current tune" you posted above, look okay so I wouldn't go changing those just yet. I assume you have EGO feedback turned off at the moment? If you don't have it turned off I would turn it off until you get your tune closer to where you want it. You should think of using EGO feedback as what you use to "fine tune" your VE bins. Get them close first, then let the wideband do its thing. Letting the wideband do the tuning when you are this far out will likely give you a VE map that is unpredictable outside of your normal range of driving conditions. Typically you'll be running in a diagonal set of VE bins running from bottom left (low load, low RPM) to upper right (high load, high RPM). The wideband would likely do a pretty good job of tuning within that narrow diagonal band, but not outside of it because you don't spend much time there. But you do spend time outside that narrow band for short periods of time and if the wideband hasn't tuned those areas very well, which it really can't, you'll end up with that jitteryness you talk about. The track car progress is progressing at a snail's pace. Someday... I hope.

Congratulations on getting it running again. Glad I could be of some help but I wouldn't attribute your fuel pump working better to getting rid of your priming pulses. The priming pulses do exactly what you thought they did, which is spray fuel when you turn the key on. They shouldn't have any effect whatsoever on how the car behaves once it's running. Did you do anything else differently that could have possibly caused the fuel pump to work better? I took a quick glance at your datalog and didn't notice anything too out of whack. You are definitely running rich the majority of the time, looks like AFRs in the 10 range typically. You are getting AFR spikes on throttle lift but that is probably due to your decel fuel cut settings, and are probably normal. Since you are running rich all over the board it would probably be prudent to drop your required fuel value a little bit to get you closer to a more nominal AFR before you start tuning. Otherwise you are going to end up with quite large changes to your VE bins and it will take a lot of time to get the whole fuel map smoothed out. Since your VE map is already pretty lumpy it may be beneficial to go back to a smoother map before you start.

I agree with the post above, go with MS2, V3.0. I also use the Megasquirt Relay Board which is very nice in addition to the DIYAutoTune harness that connects the MS box to the relay board.

The post Nigel is referring to is here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/34536-megasquirt-map-information-sharing-all-code-versions/ There are a number of AFR tables posted in that thread, you'll just have to search them out. Also, a number of people just posted their entire .msq rather than just images of tables. Many people have had success using tunes posted by HybridZ member cygnusx1, and he has posted several tunes in that thread.

I took a look at your tune and I notice a few things that might be causing you some trouble. 1. You have max running dwell set at 1.5ms, but I think most people have it set to about 3.0ms. My running dwell is set at 3.0ms and it seems to work fine (280ZXT coil). 2. A few of your cranking PW percentages are a little goofy. I'd try using the default values (cold to hot): 326, 301, 276, 251, 226, 201, 176, 151, 126, 101 3. Your ASE and WUE have some weird spots in them, I'd use the numbers I posted in my last post above. 4. I'd definitely turn off your priming pulses. You've got some pretty big numbers in there which will likely flood your engine pretty quickly with just a few off/on cycles of your ignition key. 5. Increase cranking RPM to 300 (or even 400) like you mentioned. I used to have my cranking RPM set at 200 and it gave me a fair bit of trouble (it would only start after my battery started to get drained down and the cranking RPM started dropping).

Mike, I have found that turning the priming pulse completely off is the best way to go until you get the car starting reliably and idling reliably over all of your expected ambient temps. Otherwise you will be spraying fuel every time you cycle the key off and back on, and that can quickly add up to being too much fuel in the cylinders. I have mine starting very well and I still haven't turned the priming pulse back on. It takes maybe a few extra seconds of cranking but it's no big deal. Your cranking advance should be about 10 degrees BTDC. Cranking threshold should be about 300 RPM. Assuming you are using stock 270cc injectors, your required fuel should be about 11.3ms. Your cold cranking PW should be about 88% of that, or 9.9ms. Your hot cranking PW should be about 23% of that, or 2.6ms. For all your other temperatures, just do a linear interpolation between the hot and cold and that should get you very close, at least close enough to get it to fire up. For afterstart enrichments, these numbers should be close (from cold to hot): 70, 64, 58, 51, 44, 37, 30, 22, 15, 7 For warmup enrichments, these should also be close (from cold to hot): 165, 155, 145, 136, 128, 122, 115, 110, 104, 100 It may help if you post up your latest .msq and perhaps a datalog. Good luck.

Yes, that's the one. This thread here is pretty informative as to what's going on: http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=27704

Mike, I doubt the battery could be causing you much fuss so I wouldn't put too much effort into that one. However, there are two things you should do/check: (1) Check your plug gap and set it to about .025 to .028". Any more gap than that and you'll end up with misfires, especially at load, and those misfires can cause resets via pin 6 on the CPU. (2) Solder a 0.1 uF (100 nF) cap across pin 2 and pin 6 of the CPU. Pin 6 is your reset pin and voltage fluctuations there will easily cause a reset. In my research, it seems nearly everybody has to install that cap to get rid of resets, especially under load. The cap will hold pin 6 at a much more steady 5V and make the system substantially more stable.

That is exactly the trouble I had. Everything cleared up once I fixed that one simple issue. Hope yours is that easy

Just in case you might be overlooking the obvious, make sure your MS case isn't grounded anywhere. You may remember that I had all manner of fits trying to get mine to run right when it turned out my case was touching metal.

With MS powered up and while connected to Tunerstudio or Megatune, hit ALT-L. This will bring up a "save as" dialog and you can make the filename whatever you want it to be (or leave it as is). When you hit ENTER, it will start datalogging. When you turn off the car, the file will automatically be saved. Then you can use Megalogviewer or Excel or whatever to view the datalog. The datalog is a simple file saved in a comma separated variable (CSV) type format.

Idling rich with big injectors is normal for MS1. MS1 has an injector pulsewidth resolution of .1ms, whereas MS2 can do .01ms. Without going into all the details, with your big injectors on MS1 you won't be able to fine tune the pulsewidth enough to get a nice and stable idle near a stoichiometric AFR. Yours is idling at 11-12 AFR which is about as good as you'll get. I am running MS1 V3.0 with 440cc injectors and my idle AFR is about where yours is, maybe a bit lower. You may be able to use the "hi res" code which you can read about here, but I wouldn't worry too much about it unless you have neighbors (or a wife... ask me how I know) complaining about all the exhaust smell as the car idles in the driveway. You may consider posting your .msq here so we can take a look at it. EDIT: I have not personally done this, but I have read of other people lowering the static fuel pressure (slightly) to make the injectors behave as if they were a bit smaller. However, the lower the rail pressure the less efficient your injectors will be at atomizing the fuel, so you can only go so far. Do you know what your static fuel rail pressure is? Most injectors I believe are typically set at about 42psi static pressure.

Could you describe what "The car is running but not too well" means? Does it start easy or hard? Does it idle by itself or do you have to keep your foot on the gas? Is it missing on one or more cylinders? Does it run smooth at low rpm or high rpm or does it run rough all the time? Is the car drivable? As for the relay board, that is the fast idle relay and by the looks of it there's been a fire there. One of the nearby capacitors looks to be burned fairly bad. Does you car actually have a fast idle solenoid? X11 (pin 25 on the DB37) solder jumped to X12 (pin 27 on the DB37) is probably not a big deal unless you have something hooked up to either of those pins. Not sure about your other jumpers, my experience is with a V3.0 board. I would try to learn as much as you can from the previous owner, or whoever built and installed the MS box in the first place.

What's weird is that I can completely disconnect the turn signal/dimmer combination switch and the problem with the RH turn signal coming on when I turn on the parking lights still happens. With everything hooked up, the turn signals work fine as long as I don't turn on the parking lights. I'm pretty sure I have the harnesses plugged in correctly. I think the next thing I'll check is the hazard switch. In reading some more, it sounds like that thing can cause some weird behavior with the turn signals. Perhaps it is just a coincidence that it started giving me fits about the same time as me fiddling with the other switches. Thanks for the help.

I've been going through my combination switches and cleaning them up in the hopes of getting the electrical system working reasonably well. I feel pretty confident I haven't screwed anything up within the switches themselves but I have a new electrical gremlin I just can't figure out. When I turn on my parking lights my RH turn signal comes on solid: the RH indicator on the tach lights up as well as both the front and rear RH turn signal lights. With the parking lights turned off, the turn signals work fine. Also strange is that the headlights do not work now. When I turn on the headlights I do not measure any voltage at the fuse box, on either side of the fuses. Fuses are good. I have also cleaned up the contacts on the turn signals and dimmer switch. If I completely disconnect the turn signal/dimmer switch I still get the same issue with the turn signal coming on with the parking light switch. Good news is that the parking lights do come on, as well as the dash lights as they should. I've gone through the wiring diagram pretty carefully but I can't see any way for the turn signal to come on by powering up the parking light circuit. Any help is appreciated. Car is a '72 240Z with stock harnesses throughout. Thanks, Bill

You might be right Matt. In looking at the log again, I noticed that little blip later in the log that got it to trigger (I accidentally bumped the linkage with my elbow). I don't remember my exact TPS ADC but I think it's somewhere around 20 closed and 210 or 220 at WOT. I'll post again if I continue to think I'm having issues. Thanks for the help. Bill

Dude, sorry to hear of your troubles. Nothing more frustrating than to break something while attempting to fix something else. Let us know how things go, and good luck.

Matt, EDIT: Datalog in .msl format and .msq is attached here. Should make it easier. Thanks. rustbucket_11-29-12.zip

It doesn't look like it is being applied. I'm getting my decel fuel cut (set at 92% I believe) when I let off the throttle, but I don't see any enrichment being applied. Attached chart is a plot of TPSAcc (RH axis) and GammaE (LH axis). It looks like GammaE is going from 105 to 97 when I let off the throttle, and TPSAcc varies from 100 at baseline to -116 and -400 during throttle stabs. What are the units of TPSAcc? EDIT: MSQ and datalog attached. The datalog is in .xls format, Rustbucket MSQ & datalog.zip

Mine wants to idle at about 11-11.5:1 AFR. I can get it to idle at about 12-12.5 AFR but it stumbles around and it just doesn't sound right. Perhaps the L28E is just this way, but it doesn't seem like it should be that far off the L28ET. Part of it I'm sure is due to me running relatively large injectors (440cc) on MS1 instead of MS2, but I'm not willing to switch to MS2 just yet. For spark plug wires, I'm running Magnecors because I read a ton of posts about people having trouble with anything but those. For your noise issues, I'd take a read here if you haven't done so already. Since a car produces an inherently noisy environment, making the MS unit more robust against noise is your best bet, rather than trying to eliminate all of your noise sources. I haven't done any of those mods yet, but I plan to.