Flak280z

Good news, looks like I found my issue, the power does not cut and the fuel pump works perfect. My issue was the signal wire being loose on the DB37 connector itself. I also redid the power connection, but I'm not sure if that was contributing to the issue, I just redid it to cover my own wiring. With that issue out of the way, tuning is now my main priority, which is tough with these AEM issues now. I think the gauge is reading correctly as when it shows lean, it does lean misfire, and does bog down when it says it rich, but I don't trust AEM after your reply Madkaw and what I've been reading the past few days. I hear good things about innovate, which DIYAuto offers, I'll probably just pick one of those up. However, I am trying to make it to Carlisle import here in PA on Saturday, so I'll just have to tune by feel and sound. I really just need a drivable tune, not for power or economy. If you guys have any tips based on my fuel table provided, I would appreciate it. I know my afr chart needs to be worked on a lot, but that really isn't in play atm.

Looking at this picture, I have my dizzy wired as follows (Color on pic - My wiring): Red - 12v from shielded wire, Black - ground from shielded wire, White - Signal wire to ms, Green - Not used. Reading other posts from Chickenman, using the diy wheel flips the green and white connections, but when I put the signal wire where the green is, ms does not read any rpm signal? Wonder if this is part of my issue?

I have an AEM 30-0300 wideband installed after the turbo. It works well and passes tests to ensure it is working properly. The issue is, I can’t get it to sync properly in tunerstudio. Tunerstudio will only display 19.10 afr when on the aem 30-3xx wide and calibration setting where the gauge will display 14. The tunerstudio value doesn’t really change, and I have wideband authority set to 0 so it doesn’t change anything. I’m pretty sure have it wired correctly with power, ground, signal to pink, and heater ground. I do have the upgraded version of tunerstudio, but I haven’t been able to use tuner analyze because it’s not the correct afr reading. I redid my fuel pump ground the other day just to rule that out, and both power and ground connections were tight and clean. I’m pretty sure it’s something to do with the dizzy, as Zboi pointed out that I loose rpm signal when it happens. I’m going to go through that wiring today.

Got some good logs today. Seems like it's getting some noise. Although, what's weird is that tunerstudio doesn't always flag it as noise. Attached is a tooth log and composite log. Some pages of the composite log show it missing or not being able to interpret a whole section of the trigger wheel 5.csv 2024-05-07_11.43.23.csv

Megasquirt has it's own switched 12v. My circuit goes: Battery - Key on relay - fuse block - megasquirt. The dizzy has it's own 12v + ground from the shielded wire. What do you mean by another wire from switched? Are you saying the ecm needs 12v from the batt with a fuse, or switched power? I wired everything according to the attached pic.

Yes, that's the fuel pump relay clicking, and yes, the tach signal is coming from megasquirt. At the Dizzy, I have the power wire and signal wire connected, and then ground going to chassis. I have tried grounding at both the chassis and dizzy connection, both have the same result. I have noticed, in tunerstudio, I do get quite a bit of sync loss on the counter, however, tooth logs seem to be fine.

Wow, so helpful.... Obviously, this is new to me, and I'm working through it all on my own, besides the posts I've made where people were actually supportive and helpful. If you've even tried to read what my messages say and my other posts involving megasquirt, you can find the information on both my status regarding car, wiring, and megasquirt knowledge. I literally said in the message right before yours that knew it was off and running rich. I've since adjusted my fuel ve table as to where I Idle around 13 AFR and ~12 cruising. Attached is my tune and an engine log. At the end of the log is where my fuel pump started to cut out. It seems to still happen randomly, I can't narrow down when it starts to cut as it does it when decelerating, at idle, or when on the throttle. Maybe somebody can simply help look at my tables and offer some guidance. The car runs fairly good and smooth, so I don't think my tables are "way off". I can't blip the throttle at idle to rev or to downshift, the car just seems to sputter, so I know my tables need tuning, but they aren't undrivable. My main issue is this mystery fuel pump cut. Don't bother to waste my time if you have nothing to say. engine log 1.csv CurrentTune.msq Fuel pump cut.mp4

Something is controlling the fuel pump when it shouldn't, it is still cutting out here and there. I do have a pressure sensor in my bay, so I might have to run it to where I can see in the car. I also need to have the laptop in my lap to see if the whole megasquirt is going down during the pump cut. Maybe there's another issue with my ecu itself. It randomly cuts for a second it seems on deceleration (both with clutch in and out), and doesn't like when I get on it after slowing and coming out a corner. Other than that, it runs fine. Idle AFR is around 12, 3200 rpm afr is around 10.5. Running a bit rich, maybe that has something to do with the pump cutting out. Going to have to scour megasquirt settings to see if anything is enabled that shouldn't be. I loaded Cryngus' tune awhile ago and have tuned to where I am since then, so maybe he had something that I shouldn't have for my setup. Going to try to make it to Carlisle import show here in PA next weekend, praying it's not an ecu internal issue.

Some good news and bad news. Good news is, I think I solved my fuel pump issue. I had deceleration fuel cutoff at 95% and it had no way of taking away 5% of fuel, so I think it was just shutting the pump off. I’ll have to keep an eye out, it didn’t happen during my short test drive. Bad news, I think my ARM UEGO wide and is messed up. It never goes to full lean as it should, key on. it goes up, but hovers around 19. Also, when I start the car, it just goes to 0 (see pic). It sometimes jumps up to 3-4, but it sits at 0. TunerStudio won’t calibrate to it either, and just flicks from 15-19 during a drive.

We did it (finally)! We have lift off. Not able to hit boost yet, but I can drive it again. A weird problem I had today was my fuel pump relay would turn on-off randomly. This caused the car to buck, and when I backed off the throttle, it stopped. It happened both on faster acceleration and braking normally. Going to replace my fuel pump relay tomorrow and keep on tuning. Thanks to all you fine folks. I'll post when I finally dip into boost, and my msq when I get things running decently.

BREAKING NEWS: We have started. Redid all my injector wiring, even though it mostly looked fine, I think a few of my crimps were bad on the signal side, causing them not to fire. Did an extra nice job, and all was well. Still wouldn't start. Decided to rotate back to TDC. Turns out, the last time I set to TDC, I thought my dizzy rotor was 180 off, so I rotated the shaft 180. It was correct where it was the first time, so I actually made it 180 degrees off. Just moved my plugs and it started right up. Can't work on it however, as my oil pump gasket gave out, I think I overtightened the pump. Of course something else happens and I can't tune it today. Oh well, at least it starts now. Will take this as an opportunity to turn my shaft to the correct orientation when the gasket arrives tomorrow. Thanks for the help NewZed, you were right, exhaust stroke, not compression. Will post in my build thread over in the L6 forum when I get the timing dialed in tomorrow. Excited to hear the turbo.

OK, here's some good new information. When turning the key to ON, Megasquirt primes the system, and is supposed to do a single injector spray. NONE of the injectors squirt when they key goes to on. When cranking, ONLY injectors 5 & 6 spray, like I thought. This extremely lean situation would explain the engine wanting to backfire out of the intake here and there with ether and barely wanting to still even start on ether.

Attached is a pic of the header I chopped up and made into a turbo inlet exhaust pipe. Could the bend be enough of a “blockage?”. I would assume the exhaust would find anywhere to escape, but I’m not sure about pressure and things like that. I can double check the whole system as well. Also, I have my vacuum block attached to a T fitting which goes to the brake booster and the vacuum port the booster was on. This block supplies my map vacuum the is internal to the megasquirt. Is this acceptable, or should they be separate? When I used starting fluid the other day, I feel like the car was wanting to backfire out of the intake. I popped out of the exhaust, but a time or two out of the intake. Either I used too much or maybe the bend in my inlet exhaust piping is messing things up. That to me seems like a pressure issue. I’m only 19, so I apologize for my constant questioning and unknowingness. I thank you again for the help. I love doing this and making this car my own. I’m glad I can save a car like this, I’m just frustrated how a weekend project turns into 5 weeks.

I will check again, but the last 2 times I set the engine to TDC, I made sure it was compression stroke. With the transistor problem I had, and hearing stories from DIYAuto about Godzilla Raceworks poor installation of megasquirt upgrades, I'm tempted to chalk this up as a failure on their part again. I know I can't just keep blaming the program, as it could be an engine issue, but megasquirt shouldn't be this hard to get running. There is too much information that I've scoured and read up on for it to be this difficult. I don't understand how I can have the injectors clicking in test mode but broken when cranking unless GRW messed the fuel/ignition circuit installing the jumpers for the single coil drive. I appreciate the help NewZed, you are very knowledgeable. I will continue to tinker and recheck the basics, but this is getting on almost 5 weeks for this install. I'm half tempted to just buy a whole new ecu from DIYAutotune who has proven themselves, but that is banking ~$600 on the fact that it is a computer issue.

Pulling the spark plugs this morning, All look brand new, meaning no fouling or burning. I put them back in, pulled the plug wires, and cranked the engine a few times. When pulling them back out, none looked super wet, if wet at all, and only spark plugs for cylinders 5 & 6 smelled like gas. I then went into tuner studio and tested each injector, and I could hear all of them clicking. Weird. 2024-04-23_10.55.30.mlg