70 Cam Guy

This might be what you already have but I thought I'd share anyway, http://www.thenismoshop.com/forum.shtml They have the pdf's for the R32, R33, R34 and more. I've also fallen back on searching this message board when looking for some info: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/

It is considerably cheaper to run with the 20, however mine is still on the stand. The head and flywheel are at the machine shop and I'll have them back next week. I can't wait to finish it and hear it at the 7600 rpm redline 350 at the wheels takes some work with an RB20 ... upgraded turbo, injectors, good fuel pump, regulator and engine management like Nistune or Power FC. I think many also run the Z32 MAF with engine management. In the link below you'll see some of the higher power dynos use cam gears, some have cams, some got pistons. Seems there are different ways to go. 300 seems to be a much easier number to hit This is the RB20det dyno thread. The easy conversion for kilowatts to horses is to multiply kw * 1.34. Keep in mind some of them have auto transmissions and might be running cats. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/103095-rb20-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/

Series 2 turbos are different as well. From what I've seen on the Aussie Skyline forums, the compressor wheel on the S2 turbos are polymer of some kind. Series 1 turbos are a steel compressor wheel. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/183562-std-r33-turbos/ I picked up a stock S1 RB25 turbo as a mild upgrade to my RB20 stock turbo. I was really hoping to receive an S2 turbo but got the steel wheeled compressor wheel

I am tearing down my engine for a reseal and inspection as well so it's not really much work for me to install it either. If I could get it for 10 bucks, it would be a no brainer. Cooler intake temps are a nice thought. Actually on the Skylines Australia forum, they talked about the Honda guys running them and having good results.

I figured it wouldn't result in much, just curious if anyone here had tried them. The closest thing I could find to a result on the Skyline board was that a tuner was able to get another 3-5 degrees advance on an RB26 I pretty much have all the mods I'm going to run until it's running and decide if it needs more go. This fell in the category of 'why not while it's apart' but it doesn't seem worth the money

Hi guys, I just did some searching and didn't find any major discussion relating to the RB's about these 'phenolic thermal intake gaskets'. I saw them mentioned on Skylines Australia and wondered if anyone here has tried them? They are about 5mm thick. http://gizzmousa.com/thermal-gasket.html They are made by GizzmoUSA and I haven't been able to find much on them. My impression on Skylines AU is there seems to still be some debate but I can only use google to search that board. They are about $80-90 and are reportedly worth about 10hp. Unfortunately I didn't come across any dynos. Most of us either rebuild or reseal our engines so the effort would be a matter of having it on hand when we do the work. (compared to a Skyline owner that will R&R the intake) Does anyone here have personal experience with these or similar product on an RB? I am considering one for my RB20det if they are worth some horses. The possibility of lower intake air and manifold temps is also appealing

Yeah that's why we all read this board. I'm still collecting parts for my RB20 swap and should be re-sealing the engine in the next couple weeks. I'll help if I can and I'm sure the experts here will contribute as well

I know there are some RB-Z's in the south bay but I don't of anyone personally. Maybe some will come out of the wood work. If the end-of-month south bay starbux meet is still going, you may meet some guys there.

My friends have ordered stuff from Venus Auto but I can't say whether they are the cheapest or not. They are up in Sac so you could probably just drive up and save on the freight charge (if you have access to a truck). http://www.venus-auto.com/index.htm

No worries, I actually ended up ordering the 25x12x3 intercooler after doing some more layouts. It seemed to be the easier fit and should be more than sufficient for my modest plans Thanks for the tip on the Mazda3 studs, those will certainly be easier to source than RB specific studs from ebay... and probably cheaper. My friends use Worldpac at their shop so it should be pretty easy to check.

Thanks Pat, much appreciated! I'll have to do some more precise measurements but it looks like I'll be getting a front mount like one of these: http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=IC0006-25&Category_Code=IC18CH 25x12x3 overall, 18x12x3 core http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=IC0029-25&Category_Code=INCO 27x12x3 overall, 20x12x3 core (they're both much cheaper on ebay, even from cxracing) I'm wondering if there's even a significant difference between the two sizes but intercoolers are not really something I'm too familiar with. Good idea on the GN coil pack. I'll have to keep that in mind if my coil packs are no good. I got the tracking on my ARP head studs yesterday, I'll be able to tear down the engine soon Did you do anything special with your exhaust manifold studs? OEM? I haven't looked into much yet but it looks like other Nissan studs could be found to work.

From what I can see in your pics, the 24" intercooler fits perfect for the stock holes in the core support. That is also my goal. It's looking like 27" end to end might be pushing it if that is 24". I don't have plans for the turbo so a 24-27" front mount should handle stock boost (or slightly above) no problem. Maybe I'm confused on your measurements too... is 24" the core size? I have to be honest, I'm curious about the wasted spark ignition. Is that easier with NIStune? Thanks!

Hi Pat, Do you have a build thread somewhere? I tried searching and have not had much luck. I was curious about your intercooler and fuel pressure regulator but didn't want to clutter up this thread if it's answered elsewhere. Curious about the dimensions of your front mount and which FPR you're using. I am looking at a 27x12x3 front mount from CXRacing and the Nismo type A fpr. I'm also curious about which electric fan you're using. It looks like it's in front of the radiator. I'm liking that idea since the engine bay is a bit cleaner for it. Thanks!

Thanks for writing this Pat1! I am piecing things together for the rb20det swap and this will prove exceedingly helpful. When my project really starts I'll be documenting it. Still waiting for the ARP head studs but have the Nissan gaskets and timing belt kit already. The motor will get a basic reseal because it's on the stand. The Thai Threddy intake arrived today so I'll be using that with a nice (ebay) front mount and stock turbo. A nice dump pipe should help spooling and response. The basic plan is bolt-ons that won't require special tuning. I'm going to see where the boost settles with the basic setup and see if I want to run a manual boost controller like a Hallman. Definitely getting excited for the swap

I have the 16x8 +4 RBR on my Z and they fit great. I have 205/50/16 General Exclaim UHP tires mounted on them and it clears the front strut by 1/4". I'm converting to coilovers so I am still running stock ride height. Fender clearance should not be an issue when I go lower. The +4 gives you more wriggle room than the others running a 16x8 +0 wheel like XXR Sportmax offers I think a 215/50/16 would still clear the strut but not sure about the 225/50. You'll want to check section and tread widths on the tires you're looking at. I chose the Generals because they're grippy, reasonably priced, great reviews/ratings on tire rack, and they were the lightest in the size I wanted. I'm at work right now so I don't have any pics. Here's my Flickr set with a couple Z photos, you can see fitment ok I am riding pretty high at the moment, I can nearly fit 3-4 fingers (my hand) between the top of the tire and front fender.

If the bend is not bad, I would also look into having a wheel shop repair the bend. I have heard it can be about 50 bucks repair a mild bend. Those wheels do look cool and I've never seen them before. They definitely look like they're missing whatever center cap mounts on them, which likely would have had the brand

I am actually a little surprised the sleeves from Gabe fit on top of the original spring perches without cutting the sleeves. My friend ordered the coilovers from T3 and they were 7" sleeves. It looks like they installed the camber plates, I wonder why they didn't section the struts? Did you buy the weld-in camber plates from T3 as well?

It looks like the travel on those is 2.9" and 4.2 inches. I'm not sure what your plans for the car are, but I imagine you would need a pretty stout spring to keep from bottoming out (and maybe an 8" spring?). If I recall, the standard coilover conversion and common shocks give you 5-6" of travel

The blue Z is wearing XXR 513's (new name for Sportmax). The black Z has Watanabe's (Wats). Wats are Japanese wheels, old school cool for sure

agreed, my first set of SU's had bad leaks around the throttle shafts and made it impossible to balance. Actually my first set was so bad that I repaired the rear carb only to find the front carb was leaking too. Vacuum leaks were so bad on the rear that the front went undetected until the rear was ok. In my recent experience, carb clean or brake clean does not raise the idle but you can stall the engine with it.

My first thought would be to contact the store/seller and ask about exchanging them for the set you ordered initially. It sounds like a lot of trouble to go through if you can exchange them for wheels with the correct bore. They may even cover return shipping since it was an error

That's exactly how I did mine as well. Don't breath the gas that comes off the weld if it's galvanized!

Nice! I just picked up my set of RB-R's on Friday, ordered tires today. I love the Hyper Black! Good pictures, it's hard to capture hyper black with the camera The local shop hadn't even heard of the RBR's yet but they asked for a picture when I get them mounted I am still a month out intalling them since I'm still working on my coilovers

Even if it might be redneck, you can't argue with the results. My friends used leftover roll cage padding on a noisy Walbro and it worked wonders

Thanks! I have had a couple now that couldn't maintain pressure without blocking the return. It's understandable since the Facet I have now is really rated 4psi max and that is likely rated without a return line. The older Facet I had burned up (b/c of my voltage regulator) but even that one couldn't push enough fuel with the return line (rated 4-5.5 I believe). My current setup has the low pressure Facet acting as a feed for the mechanical pump. It sounds like that RX7 pump will work perfectly to eliminate the mechanical pump and keep the return