blueovalz

Which would be? Pictures....lots of pictures.

3.44 on the first run. I'll give it another shot later when I have more time.

Sounds to me like you're good to go! If the wrong mustache bar is being used though (link was changed but the mustache bar was not), the differential will still be forward of a location that will allow the axles to be straight out the sides of the differential. This would also be indicated by a great deal of clearance between your curved link and the rear cover.

If indeed they are stiffer AND drop the ride height, you'll see a significant difference in the un-bounded length. It should all work out once the weight is on the car and settled. You may have the spring uncompressed at full droop though.

Why don't you just invest in a stroker kit with some nice internals. It would be cheaper and much less trouble than a turbo. If you can't beat a NA 302 with a NA 351, then no advice on this thread will help you. Pour some bad gas in the old man's tank...that will set you up fine.

IHMO this was like comparing apples to oranges. They took a cheaper, heavier, less powerful car that competed against a costlier, lighter more powerful car. Did they really expect the GTR to win? Granted, it's a bit more sophisticated, but the numbers don't lie.

I've not measured this but assume the ZX rod is shorter than the Z? If so, this may explain some of the additional failure rates for the ZX verses the Z (same compliance means greater angle of movement at the bushing).

I would go even futher and say "don't use urethane bushings on the T/C assembly". This is a critical component and any time you restrict the movement of the entire suspension through this bushing, you're looking for trouble on the rod regardless if you've retreaded it or not. I see you don't have many posts, so in case you've not read them, there are a few strings about this very same situation happening to others.

Thanks DavyZ. If you'll email me (don't PM because I cannot attach the Word document), I'll reply with a very short write-up on what I did. The body is the original fiberglass work (the plug basically), and NO, I did not bondo any of it to the car. Its either bolted on or riveted into place (this was to prevent future cracking or splitting along the bond). I used floral foam (the very fine, soft fragile type instead of the coarse hard crispy type) because resin will not react to it and thus I don't need to cover it with tape to prevent it from dissolving from the resin (blocks were hot-glued into place). This was a simple production at home with no fancy tools or equipment, but it took a lot of time, elbow grease, and patience.

Yep, the bubble was simply a microcosm of the method used to build the entire body.

I've got the C5 rotors on my Z hubs with Outlaw calipers (what a combination!). I still have the C5 black calipers though, and they are a very good design considering a floater.

I'm closer than ever before in deciding that I'd like to work on another auto related project, but cannot justify it in terms of money, space, or time spent unless I depart with the Z (the BlueOvalZ). I'm looking for advice (and please refrain from the "don't do it" comments...thank you) on how to go about this process. Questions include; do I sell it whole and intact (netting less money), or to piece-meal it out in parts and then sell the body or chassis separately? I any of you guys have sold past projects or cars (let’s keep this restricted to race car experiences because this is a very impractical street car), please pass your experience or wisdom on to me.

You'll love this... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Volkwagen-Subaru-Working-Invention_W0QQitemZ120314761997QQihZ002QQcategoryZ6472QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

As soon as I swapped the 289 out for the 383, my oil temp rocketed up to about 250º. So I put a cooler on and it now runs about about 215º on steady-state driving, but a couple of good hard high RPM pulls and it's back up for a little while.

Ok, so I cut down the front a little bit, rounded to top profile and and gave the front less rake, and raised the rear for "some" cowl induction support. The rear will be cut back about 4", which will provide a larger rear opening, and later I will recess the area under the back portion of this blister to provide an even larger rear opening. Anyway, I grabbed some cheap spray-on paint (close match) just to get a final idea of what this will look like before I commit to cutting the current hood. In the beginning: Then there was shape: Then I rounded it, spray painted the foam, and decided to continue on with this endeavor: Protecting the good paint: Protecting the foam: Laying up and (oops) putting too much catalyst in it (it's been a while). Peel the blister off the hood tape: Draw a reference centerline for the middle ridge (used laser level) Home Depot spraypaint to visually see if this is what I really want to do:

I cannot provide a recommendation, but the size of hose between this set-up and the block is important to consider as well. What really surprises me is the apparent "smallness" of a sufficient size hose for a typical V8 application as compared to a Porsche oil system (but the two are vastly different in design).

Great job!

Interesting contributions. Thanks to all, and the modified photos to help me see what you are talking about. Now to ponder once again.

Yeah, it's gonna be a challenge to make this look right. I may forego the whole affair and sell the set-up, but I want to take it as far as I can before permanently changing the hood.

As some of you know, I’m contemplating the installation of a 48 IDA Weber set-up on the BlueOvalZ. I was quite surprised to find that the front air horns will extend up past the surface of the hood by about 1 ½”. So before I start whacking away on a perfectly good hood, I decided to mock up a blister that will be sufficiently high to not interfere with the reversion cloud that forms over the horns at high RPM and allow sufficient air to the carbs. This is a foam piece, and if I like it, I'll go ahead and make a fiberglass piece. And if I like the finished fiberglass piece, I'll go ahead and whack away on the hood and pop-rivet this thing onto the hood. The following is the minimal sized blister. Yes I could go a little less conspicuous, but function has always been my game. For those of you that are very familiar with the AutoWeek “Body Double”, you’ll enjoy this: Now, as bad as this initially looks, on the car it's not as bolbous as it appears here in the photos, so I'm going to go the next step to the fiberglass part.

A small portion of the disc of the sun with the space shuttle pushing back from the space station (both passing in front of the sun).

I believe the casting for the mounts is the same between these two.

Jon, have you thought about swapping the adjustable link to the rear side of the arm? This would allow a lot more length for the link. Plus, you'd avoid the torque force from being placed in the middle of that front tube (or wherever it will connect on that front tube). With the rear link, you could attach the link adjacent to the rear bushing support and eliminate any forces acting on an unsupported member (or eliminate more structure to support the connection up front).

The skill, dedication, and desire are among the best. Again, the styling is not what I would want to do with those attributes, but he has to be complimented on his work.

1971 240Z Terry Oxandale Litte Rock, Arkansas