DarthZ

The scoop that Les sent me already had the clips glassed in and are proving a real %**$# to remove carefully. He and I are good and the part itself is awesome, the clips were just poorly placed. I recommended to him that he not place the clips, but to just send them with the part, that way it can be our fault when the clips are in a bad place. I am still very glad to have the part and definitely recommend it to all. Just posted to make sure no one else makes the same bonehead mistake I did.

Been around the car for years, but never when it was on a lift. Wish i had that torque tube set up. Took a couple pics the other day. See beauty and the gnarly beast below. I also have DarthZ

Nice clean car man... love it!

The torque tube idea was cool, but was a real PITA to set up...thus it didn't make it into the kit. We need to crawl under his Z to find a "phantom" noise anyway...will try to take some pics then. I will post a few more pics of the car. I just don't have any of it as it sits right now. Let me know what pics you may want to see of Phantom's car and I can take a few of those as well. His car is really nicely done. FYI. If you live in Texas, John's cars parts out v8 installation work to Larry at www.larrysspeedandcustom.com He is a good guy and the installation work is Very well done and he really cares about his customers. Tell him Eric Davis sent you out from this site. This little bit of info could save you a LOT of money versus going with anyone else for the work and he is already very familiar with our cars as his first work on these cars was with my Dad's set up in 2000 and just completed some work on my car a couple months ago. This was my answer to the exhaust / fuel tank.... The tank can be found here: www.tanksinc.com

OK, so i ran into a few problems. One small one was that the paper template that comes with the scoop does not account for the shape of the hood. It was easily handled by centering up the template, then trimming out the middle of the paper that would run over the bulge on the hood. The not-so-small problem is that the j clips are not installed into the fiberglass symmetrically they are a 1/4" off hear and another 1/4? off there. The template does match the Off-placed bolt holes, but one of the holes on the back edge, by the windshield is set too far forward placing it directly over the edge of the hoods frame. This means you ether need to cut up frame or get your own clip and set a new hole. The scoop itself is in good shape, but I would have preferred it just came with a few clips versus them being installed semi-randomly. I plan on shooting an email to Les to let him know as well. Unfortunately, I trusted the template, and drilled holes prior to realizing it was right over the frame rail. Maybe it will save some of you guys the hassle I know have of dealing with some extra holes. I just looked at my own pic and realized the holes are pretty obviously "off".... look at the two near the back edge...the one on the passenger side is the culprit!

I just got my hood scoop from Les, it looks great, is waaaay stronger than it looks in pics, and lined up on my stock 240z hood perfectly!. I set it down on my Dad's 280z and it looked good on that hood as well. Les says he has one in stock now and they finally have all the production hitches worked out and can make them faster now. The only thing slowing him down is sourcing good boxes. It came with a paper template that will make mounting it a cake walk. Side note: I spoke with a guy that has an original hood scoop that he bonded to the hood and he had issues with the hood flexing and it would crack the bonding at the edges of the scoop. I may eventually bond mine on also, so I am not going to hog out my hood with one giant oval hole, but will be cutting several smaller holes so the hood can maintain more of its original structural integrity. I may look for a large hole punch so the edges will be flared and add so strength back into the sheet metal. Also, I plan on making sure there are a couple good holes at the front edge so water won't pool up in there.

I've heard back from Les about these. They are in production. $195 for fiberglass and $325 for carbon fiber. I heard from him about a week ago and he said it would be another 3 weeks before he could get some out as they are already busy filling several orders of them.

Really appreciate the amount of effort and think its going in an interesting direction. The idea of splitting the air up is a good one, make sure you think "down force" in the process and don't make ducts that create lift with your air redirection. There are some really interesting threads with wind tunnel testing done on the site that might help with that. I am REALLY interested to see what it looks like once you put a grill in there, I bet it has a HUGE impact. Best of luck on your build. Would the headlight bezels for the G nose set up work? They are longer than stock. I found some here with a quick search.....PRICEY! My link Here they are installed My link Oh and just for fun, look at this monstrosity that I just found on the internet. Its soooo bad, i love it!!! My link

ditto... post more pics of in progress with your "how to" info. Looks really good so far!

I really depends on what you are after. Do you want flares or a body kit? If the answer is body kit then the options, work, and necessary cash out put change dramatically over flares. I have flares now and they can be a good way to get the job done without have to pony up tooooo much cash, but if you want any suspension travel in the rear and to be able to sit your car down on those 10.5" wheels, you are likely going to have to cut up your rear quarters up either way. There are lots of threads on all the options. Do some searching and you might be surprised how much you find. I just ordered the subtle Z front fenders with bonded headlights, subtle z air dam, 240z front bumper, and YZ rear quarters with grafted subtle z fender lips from John at reaction research. He has 3 different body kits to pick from and mix and match between, he is awesome to work with and you really can't beat the pricing or quality from what I have seen. The web site is kind of a pain and could use some better pics, but you won't find better quality parts or a person to work with on it. Check out Dan Juday's car here. He is running 305 50 15's in the rear and 265 50 15's in the front on the same body kit I am talking about, but he had an MSA type 2 front air dam molded together with the subtle z airdam. My link

I purchased Grenade300's car a year ago and have been going through it a bit at a time and working out all bugs. Wanted to post a couple things here for everyone. As a part of the work done recently we discovered that the temperature sensor being mounted through the freeze plug as it is shown in the write up means the car will register a temperature 20 degrees lower than the actual temp of the motor! Once I am done re-locating the sensor and have confirmed improved operation I will post a pic and explanation. If you have a need for any work done in the DFW, TX area Larry at LarrysSpeedAndCustom.com does awesome work at a great price point and is now very familiar with these cars. John R. at John's Cars in Dallas uses Larry for work regularly. Tell him Eric Davis sent you out and you'll get the royal treatment!

I have a pile of lug nuts from all sorts of Z's, but don't know off hand which ones you are looking for. Post a pic of what you are looking for, or mail me and i will check the bag-o-nuts to see if I have them. Five bucks and shipping is all i would be looking for, if i have them. Oh, and i am sure they will NOT be in perfect condition.

Is any one else interested in a wheel wider than 9.5"? I am. I have 9" front and 9.5" rear, but if/when i get the 280YZ body kit, these wheels will not be sufficient. I am thinking at least 10.5 or maybe 11" inches.