FastFloridian

Got a few small projects done. Got rid of the weird clutch pedal contraction. Ordered a brake pedal to be my clutch pedal. Had to trim it down as it was for an automatic. Welded on the side clip for the clutch slave cylinder and took all the pedals out and painted. Also cleaned the underside some more, I want to get that painted soon.

Will do. I’m going to go with some wide wheels and tires up front, somewhere between 305s up to 325s. With all that rubber the power steering will be a huge help.

You are 100% correct, thanks for pointing that out. You don’t know what you don’t know. The new steering kit lets you attach the u-joint in any configuration, I wasn’t even thinking there was a right and wrong way to install them. Quick google search and see what you mean and how to align them properly. Glad to be able to fix now, rather than find out later, love everyone’s help on this forum.

Second that

Got the electric power steering installed. You have to the-use original shaft that ties into the steering rack, was a huge PIA to get out of the upper universal joint and into the new one. Got brake pads in, ordered some brake fluid.

I’m shooting to have it ready by about this time next year, 2 years from when I bought it, so the 240Z won’t be ready. But I am planning to do Sebring a few times January through April, probably in my 370Z (I’ve taken my Tesla there a few times too). I’ve never done an SCCA track day, I’ve always gone there with Chin. Let me know if you sign up, I’ll look into it. I would love to see your car and get some ideas tips to finishing mine.

Thanks, will do. I’m hoping to get a good amount done this weekend, and my apex rear suspension kit should be coming in soon.

Good point, we’ll see when I get it together on fitment, looks like a good option if this doesn’t work.

Got a few goodies today, first I found a cool bracket that can allow me to use a hydraulic set up for the clutch, it’ll let me get rid of the weird mechanical set up someone rigged up. Second was an impulse buy, while getting the turn signal/light switch and relay they had this emergency power stop button and solenoid.

Got the complete rear end dropped today.

Got a little bit of time in the garage today. Got most of the front brake plumbing done, just waiting on the lines I ordered for the master cylinders. Also ordered this steering column mounted lights/turn signal switch and relay set. Will help with the wiring as I’ve tossed everything out.

Honestly not sure yet on fittings. I’ve only done caliper swaps, this is the most comprehensive brake system overhaul I’ve done. Gonna see what I’ve got to work with and go from there, wish me luck 😅

I found it just by digging around online. Wilwood makes the assembly, allows me to run two different sized master cylinders for front and back, and on top of that the horizontal bolt close to the firewall allows me to adjust brake bias between the cylinders, lots of adjustability. It comes with this cable so I can adjust the brake bias from inside the car. Yes, all new brake lines. I bought pre-bent hard lines and some distribution blocks. Once I get the rear suspension off, I’ll replace the lines, then figure out how to attach the cylinders, probably get some flexible stainless steel lines for that.

Got the front coilovers and the dual master cylinder assembly on today. Still too hot out for working on the car here, I can’t wait until it cools down. A few challenges with each, but got it on right. Was hoping to start tearing down the rear, but I’ll give that a go next weekend.

Nice, I could see building a dart block sometime down the road. Just a cam and twisted wedge heads on the 302 for this build for now.

Coilovers showed up today 🤩. Got them assembled and will get the fronts on the car tomorrow.

Looks good and sounds good. Wouldn’t buy without a test drive though, he’ll start it though right? Hopefully just fluids and new tires and you should be good to go. Good luck!

Thanks guys. Making me feel confident in my set up. @74_5.0L_Z good info and impressive dyno on old engine, I’m hoping for something close when I’m done. What is your new engine, still a ford 302? Slight change to my diff setup. Didn’t do enough homework, but I think it’s actually going to come out better, just by dumb luck. I didn’t realize auto vs manual was a different sized pumkin on the 370Z. I bought an auto diff, and the wavetrac doesn’t fit an auto. Good news is I really wanted the 3.3 gearing and that only fits in the auto pumpkin (dumb luck). An OS Giken diff fits with the 3.3 gearing in an auto diff, so it looks like I’m going that route. A little more money, but the OS Giken is better for a track car anyway.

Ordered the Apex track attack kit for the rear, and sent out my 370Z diff to be rebuilt with a wavetrac LSD. Going with the 3.3 gears. Did some more research and I was thinking about the gearing wrong. I’m sure it’s common sense to those with experience but I was including the overdrive gear in my analysis. For a track car, I learned you should gear it for redline in 4th on the longest straight, then you have overdrive if you need it. So going with the highlighted option below. Planning to work more on brakes this weekend, I unboxed my dual master cylinder set up, trying to understand how it all goes together and figure out plumbing. I have my new brake lines too, so hopefully replacing all the lines and get them plumbed to the master cylinders in the next few weeks.

Also got the oil cooler bracket/brace installed.

Got rotors and calipers on. A few minor challenges making it fit for the 240Z, but very happy how it came out.

I was over in Orlando today for work and found a Z shop and picked up a used rear diff and axel. Was supposed to be 2 axels, but they stripped one getting it off an old Z. I’ll probably get the other one off eBay. I’ll be sending the diff to Z1 and getting it rebuilt with a wavetrac lsd and some new gears.

For the track attack upper control arm plate the carriage bolts are a must because of their plate design, it completely covers the bolts, so no way to tighten. But some of the others are iffy. The two I broke, didn’t need to be carriage bolts, but it would have tight if they weren’t, and the tension rod bracket was probably needed for clearance to the bushing. Their brackets could have been designed to use regular bolts if they made them a little bigger, but that’s what they went with. Over all I’m pretty happy with it and how’s it’s coming together, but there are still some improvements they could make for easier installation.