Tommy

So I was driving back from a few hours worth of errands in town, and I start to get backfires. I'm unsure as to whether it was from the carbs or exhaust, but I got them while pushing the pedal more than 20%. I was low on gas, and the power loss felt like I was running empty. I've ran empty before, usually doesn't backfire. I put some gas in her today, and charged the battery. Didn't start. Tried to a couple times, backfireing from the carbs. Typical if the webers are flooded, but may be an indication of another problem? Looked at the ignotion box (Crane HI-6). If anyone know's these boxes, they have a red indicator light on them. Solid red on "ready", and flashing while on "start". Some electrical issues getting power to the ignition box, fixed them and there's still an issue somewhere. Solid red on ready, stays solid while it turns over (which should mean it is not giving spark to the coil). So my question... What can cause an ignition box not to give spark while turning the key? *With this box, the light also flashes, in different patterns, if various problems are detected. No patterns, just no spark (stays solid). 72' 240z L28, top-end rebuild/bore a month ago. Triple weber carbs, recent professional tune/jet (Not Dyno, but damn better than they were). Mallory unilite distributor, bought used, tested on SUN machine, installed 2-3 months ago. Timing calibrated with engine rebuild. Crane PS92 Coil (for Capacative Discharge ignition) Crane HI-6 ignition box. Rev limit at 5K for now. About 2-3 months old, kept on the interior of the firewall. Carter 4070 fuel pump, regulated 3-4psi.

Did you end up finding a solution? I am also also using a older tape-style camera (Mini-DV). Canon VIXIA HV30. Size of a "regular" handheld camera.

Recently driving 250mi home from the local engine shop. sub-zero night, from about 2am to 4-5am. No taillights (brake lights + flashers work). One headlight. We went to a auto car wash first, and found pretty quickly that the air (now water) leaks are the entire passenger's door-frame, as well as near the front of the doors at the bottom of the A-piller. At 80mph the air comes in just as quick as the water did. I was in a hurry, and would absoutely not stop along the way, except once for gas. Feet cold to the touch afterwards, after a 5-10min hot shower. I feel worse for my friend, who was forced to go without heat. At least there was music. I don't mean to step on feet, just share with you my love of the car. I loved her though it. I'll add some pictures when I get a chance. The entire rear cabin is filled with parts, tools, wires, etc. that I carry with me. Like a rolling/driving project car, and terrible (Amazing!) daily driver. I'll post some pictures when I find the video camera.

As much as I would love to make a list... It's going to the loan I took for the top-end rebuild on the mild L28 a few months ago. I guess it's worth it. I've since fallen in love (again, if that is possible??) with the forgiving power band and triple webers

I apologize for my scarcasim. Was trying to be funny. Though my previous reference to the Area 51 spam post was true, I needed a part. It has since been deleted.

More than one way to get to the 35 post count req. for the classifids before my "area 51" post spam is deleted... Here's my 72' 240, daily driver, sole method of transportation, constant money pit, and mistress. Just don't zoom in on the dark electrical pit of doom that lies just below the spark plugs 5-6, in the 2nd last pic.

Removal of Tach found here: http://www.classiczc...ad.php?p=312266 And here's the wiring schematic and part number you (hopefully) need. Info here: http://www.classiczc...ht=tach+rebuild

I've also heard those tachs are prone to failure (besides the needle hopping that is reported by many). I currently have the same issue (no signs of life, new ignition module and tach adaptor). You need to take the dash off to get the gauges (of course). Right now I'm trying to figure out how to get the tach out of the back of the dash to inspect it. FSM is in the car and will be locked away for a few days. Classiczcars.com has a few good ideas on the actual repair, as well as the (transistor?) part number that usually fails.

I'm looking for one in daily driver condition, as (go figure)I daily drive my z. Anyways, I'm nearly certain that all of the s30 liners are the same. I would almost perfer one from the 280zx, as they are plastic (more durable), and can be modified to fit into the 240 (reference below) http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9199

Just read your thread. I kept forgetting that this was a 240 build, not some other beast... One day...

I'm also running triple 40 DCOE 18's with the 4-5psi Carter 4070. No return line. L28 cannon manifold, mild engine work done. I have a pressure regulator before the carbs, though it is not needed with this fuel pump, reference http://www.racetep.com/webfuelspark.html#webfuel This past summer, I drove the 240 from Vancouver to Toronto. These were relatively hot days, and the car was ran hard through much of the rockies. On the parries, I put in a couple 10+hour driving days, in the heat, occasionally ran hard. No fires to report.

This being kind of a guide already, here's how I went about getting the damn thing back on, alligend, and advance set: 1. Took off the old (280zx) distributor. Made alligment marks. 2. Found the new distributor doesn't spin 3. Got the distributor to spin, allignment marks are gone. I begin: 4. I need to find TDC on the compression stroke (where I want the distributor to give spark to #1 plug). It helps to take the wife out of the kitchen for this. Pulled #1 plug and had her sit in the drivers seat, slowly cranking the engine in small jerks. Put my finger over #1 plug hole. Air sucking in = Exhaust stroke. Air blowing out = Compression. (think compressed air wants to escape). 5. On the compression stroke, I looked for the [yellow] allignment groove on the pully. When it was close to 0*, she stops cranking. Not having A nut big enough to fit on the engine block, I put it in second and rocked it forwards in small "jerks" to allign the groove exactly with 0*. Note you can also rock backwards if you overshoot. Checked this logic with a screwdriver. #1 piston is Top Dead Centre (screwdriver will not go in). 6. Alligned unilite rotor exactly with the arrow on the module, and made allignment marks. Put the distributor cap on and made allignment marks. The distributor, exactly now, wants to give spark to #1 plug wire (and #1 Piston is TDC on compression). 7. Mounted distributor. Enging needs some advance to start. Loosened clamp to give about 10-20* static advance (rotate counterclockwise -- think: if spark comes earlier, this is advance). Car started. Next set is to set total advance. 8. I don't have a fancy timing light, and my grove goes from 5* retarted to 20* advance. I set the mark to exactly 20* advance, and made a second [white] allignment mark on 5* retarted. When this white mark is at 0*, the actual advance is 25*. 9. Total advance is reached at aprox. 3500-3800 RPM for the unilite. We are looking for 35-37* total advance. While I increased throttle to 4,000RPM, my wife rotated the distributor until the second mark read 10* advance (Actual advance is now 35*). 10. She held the distributor in place while I tightened it down. Checked it once more while tightened to make sure total advance was actually 35*. It is. 11. At idle, I now have 5* advance and the car will not start from cold (or get low-rpm peformance). To change this, we need to lower the ammount of mechanical advance inside the distributor. To do this, these screws need to be moved inwards, to limit mechanical advance: Anyways, I'll get around to doing that tomorrow. I've had good results from 18* below TDC at idle. Hope this helps someone.

Here is how to take apart and put back the unilite: Spindle Pin removal: Use a flat punch, not one with a point Base removal and washer orentation (slides down): Clamp removal (loosen while mounted to adjust advance): I had to tap mine with a hammer, from the bottom, fairly hard, to get this to push out the top: [/url] The shaft has now come out the top: Washer orentation (has not been flipped) Washer orentation (One just of the first two washers): Yes, the background is the email from the seller. Very knowledgable. There is one more washer below the above two. It's orentation looking down is: That's it. No pictures of cleaning it up and puting it back together, I just used these pictures to do it.

4563901 without advance 4763901 with advance http://www.malloryperformance.com/MMYApplication.aspx?makeName=nissan&modelName=240z&yearName=1972&modelDetailName=&brandID=6'>http://www.malloryperformance.com/MMYApplication.aspx?makeName=nissan&modelName=240z&yearName=1972&modelDetailName=&brandID=6 Taken from Mallory's website http://www.malloryperformance.com/

After talking to him again, it seems like I should approach this problem from the "bottom-up", instead of the top-down method shown in the pictures. I'll keep this updated (with pictures) after I "remove the gear" via the roll pin at the bottom of the dizzy. If nothing else, this thread will serve to link to photos of this model of distributor to other internet users. Apparently I'm not the first to look for them. There's V8 unilites out there, but no I-6 to be found. Thanks! Any input appreciated. Tom. EDIT: update I took her apart last night (Wednesday 4 Nov 2009). The top can be completly lifted out through the removal of the spindle pin (can be seen as a hole, beside the large base clamp, in the first picture). After not wanting to budge, I tapped the bottom of the shaft quite hard with a hammer, to break what was a rust seal on the inside of the shaft. Cleaned it up, put it back together, spins freely. I re-lubed it with graphite grease, though there may be a better type of grease to use. Graphite will not seize or clump. The rust, after cleaned up, was minimal. Labeled pictures to follow for anyone in a similar situation

Hey guys, After buying a used I-6 mallory unilite - no vac advance - from ebay (I know), I opened the box to find that it does not spin. I've been in contact with Lantoga, who sold this to me. He tested it on a SUN distributor testor before shipping it out. It was very nicely packed, and most likely not damaged in shipping. No cracks or fractures on cap or rotar. When it was tested on the sun machine, the clamp that attaches to the aluminum base for the timing cover is not used; the machine has its own clamp. It passed the test, and was put back together to ship (to me). He believes that the problem is the bolt that attaches this clamp is too long, and I need to take her apart and loosen this bolt. If she spins freely after loosening, the problem would be a bolt too long. I have never taken a distributor apart from the bottom-up. My apologies for not using correct terminology for the labeling of the dizzy parts; I've never taken one apart before. Below are some pictures of trying to get to this base... and to refresh your memory on this model: Distributor: Rotar off: The furthest I've gotten: After the clamp-washer that is coming off horizontally, I cannot get any further down. It is possible that the round washer that sits below it may be designed not to come off. As it is now: Thank you for any help in getting to this screw!

Wow, Whitehead Peformance is in Toronto? That's practically nextdoor! Thanks for the link!

Found both manuals, unfortunatly I need to setup the current 280zx dizzy with an optical ignition to run the XR700 from fireball. Seems like a common/straightforward mod to the dist., but requires another part... No more questions Except if anyone knows the part number to change an OE 280zx dizzy to fire from optical cables... And I'm going mechaincal advance only with the XR700, HI-6, and PS92 coil in series with the tach adapter.

Talked to my dad last night, he strongly advised against hooking it up, especially before I can get it running again. Swapped the old PS92 for the new one. Haven't hooked up the HI-6, and I'm looking for the manual on how to do it. He said that the PS92 and HI-6 might even work in series with the XR700 ignition. Apprantly Crane just went out of busines. I'll keep looking, and leave the advance until (at least) it runs. If I swap an old PS92 for a new one (it's currnetly hooked up to the 280zx dizzy with no ignition amplification), do I need to take apart the dizzy and recalibrate it? I remember reading something about this...

Lazeum -- Zs-ondabrain from classiczcars responds: "Yup, I had similar issues with my triple 40DCOE's and advancing the timing helped a little. Different altitudes will also effect the timing. Advancing should also bring up your idle. The only problem with running Vaccum advance on triples is they are not typically set up for Vaccum Advance. The VA has to be place before the buuterfly on the #1 Weber. If you put the VA after the butterfly, on the intake manifold, you'll suck your vaccum advance diaphram out or suck a hole into it, causing it to malfunction. I blew out my $30 diaphram on my Mallory Unilite by doing that exact wrong thing. Dave" Jim -- I currently run a 280zx with no vaccum from a PS92 and Fireball XR700 (crane arms CD ignition) Rucus -- The Unilite I'm looking at now it listed as much cheaper than the crank-fired ignition from DIS. Jim and Rucus -- This car will be driven 95% street. I wouldn't mind a little more gas mileage, either... Although it would feel good to have max HP at WOT, it's not too practical outside the track. So... so far, I think I'll go with this unilite and hook up the advance? Anything else I might want to know?

I'm running a slightly bored L28 aftermarket cam, into a 240z with triple webers. Ignition will soon be PS91 with HI-6 from crane arms. Currently, I have a 280zx Distributor without the vaccum advance hooked up (bad). I am looking for a new distributor, and would like to hear any thoughts on weather to go with vaccum and mechanical, or mechanical advance only. I know that triples are not usually set up for vaccum advance, and if I drill, it must be before the first butterfly nut on the manifold. This is not where cannon want's me to drill (there are preselected holes), but that's fine with me. I have also heard of possible problems with vaccum issues when more carbs than stock are used. I need midrange peformance, because this is primarily a daily driver. There is a mallory unilite with vaccum and mechanical on ebay right now, and I am considering buying it. My question: Should I go with mechanical advance only, or mechanical and vaccum? Thanks for any input.

I'm looking for a new distributor to run with my L28 in a 240z. I do not want vaccum advance to aviod drilling into the cannon manifold. Looking to pay $30-$200. Ideally, I would find a lightly used Mallory Unilite compatible with the L28 engine at a deacent price. PS92 and Fireball RX700 ignition; will change to PS91 with HI-6 I am also looking for a PS91 coil from crane arms, to use with my HI-6 ignition and tach adapter. Needs to be good condition. Being ignition products, there is a real need for these required items to work properly... though looks are not important. Thanks guys, Tommy. Located in Kingston, Ontario (SouthEast Ontario)

On Vaccum Advance... Vaccum advance on your triples needs to be hooked up before the first butterfly nut on your #1 weber, otherwise you get vaccum issues. If you're running the cannon manifold onto triples (as I am), you have two "preselected" spaces to run vaccum from. One that is before the first butterfly nut, one that is not. They do not come drilled. On mine, the vaccum for the brakes is hooked up to the space to run vaccum before the first butterfly nut on your webers. Not wanting to drill, I am looking for a new dizzy as well. I drive mine street and am looking for mechanical advance only. I've heard that having to run vaccum advance on triples may not be the best thing to do anyways, because of decreased vaccum. Let me know if you see anything you don't want? I'll do the same for you.

I found a great deal on ebay yesterday, and went with a PS91 and HI-6 from crane arms, with their tach adapter. You can use the crane tach adapter with many different ignition systems. As mentioned, my tach didn't work as it's a L28 into a 240z (different tach trigger styles). I replaced everything for more spark to the triple webers, but more for increased reliability... but I've heard arguments from both sides on the reliability "advantage".