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Roggaman

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Everything posted by Roggaman

  1. Don't know about your Maximas, but our earlier Maximas has the VG30E engine...
  2. It might be a worned out engine in need of new bearings too... don't want to scare you, but I had low oil pressure on a previus engine, and it wasn't cured until an overhaul and a new set of bearings was installed.
  3. 1700cc/min is 102litres/hour: that's god for somewhere around 200bhp... I wouldn't go for that solution. Your idle fuel pressure depends on your FPR and not on the pump. Look at an older Porsche or a big engined BMW instead, if u want a good used (cheap) fuel pump.
  4. I have nonadjustably gas dampers up front (on my 280ZX) with 220lb/ft coil-over springs. I'm gone modify a couple of Ohlins adjustably gas damper for my rear (same set-up as original), and I was woundering what springrate I should start with (probebly have to change them to fine-tune the handling, but want to come as close as possibly). My car has close to 50/50 weight distribution and weighs aprox. 2640lbs. I want the rear to be on the firm side. Any suggestions? /Roger
  5. Depends on what tires you're using. I run 265/50-14 in the rear and only had to adjust the inner lip a little. There shouldn't be any problems with say 225 up front and 265 in the rear if u keep the overall diam slightly smaller than stock. Depends on how well you set up the car. With my 215 up front and 265 in the rear, my car should understeer, but I've changed the settings (wider front track, more camber up front for ex.) so the car is very neutral, even slightly closer to oversteered, and behave very well on the road and on track.
  6. Maybe I'm just being stubburn, but I'm going to give it a try. Most of this engines bad reputation comes from lose cylinder sleeves, and we found a way to cure that. The heads have very god potential, but whoever decided to go with the final looks, I don't rank very high. The heads are gone get rewelded chambers, straighten ports and some other jobs. Me and my buddy owns a company that sells almost everything non-stock to cars, and we rebuild/modifyes engines also, so we get many parts very cheap and do all of the work ourselves. We estimate the total build cost (for the engine, incl. turbos and engine management (MegaSquirt)) to be around 3000$. Of course you couldn't get it this cheap if you payed full price for everything and let someone else put it together. We'll see if I some day say: "You were right" or "Told you it could be done"...
  7. ??? It´s a 4 stud, but it´s not 114,3mm (4,5"), it´s 100mm. And were the ET should be you got those weird numbers above... It might work with an adapter, changing from 114,3mm to 100mm, but I wouldn't recommend it.
  8. Roggaman

    PRV V6?

    Did some searching but came up with nothing. Anyone tried to get some power out of a PRV (Peugot, Renault, Volvo) V6? Seems to be a rather nice layed-out, all-alu engine that costs almost nothing to buy. With forged pistons, modified heads and a few other changes + turbo you could get somewere around 450bhp very cheap (less then half the price of a VG30 setup) Is it worth trying
  9. I have a N/A intake witch have been cut in half, ported (all the way, possible when plenum is cut open) to get rid of the bumps and smoothen the runners and I got rid of some of the holes and other "junk". It was then widend 1/2" to get a bigger plenum, and I put a BMW 63mm trottle on it. Has worked perfect for me. Here are some pics: http://speedfreak.nu/modules.php?set_albumName=albuo04&id=aad&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php http://speedfreak.nu/modules.php?set_albumName=albuo82&id=aau&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php
  10. I´m building my own 5-lug hubs in a lathe as I´m not that fond of the bolt on modell. I´m going for the BMW´s 5*120 (mm that is). At least in Europe one can find cheap wide wheels for BMW everywere (up to 11" wide)
  11. From what I heard, there has been two different headgaskets for L28 and L28ET, but Nissan nowadays only has the later one in stock (the one with blocked water passages) and if I´m not misstaken, they fit all L28´s. So your gasket should be just fine...
  12. It´s the other way around! If two pumps puts out the same volume, the one that can deliver the highest pressure in doing this, is most likely to be the better one.
  13. Looks like they implemented some parts from a C3 ´vette. I would skip the rearlight conversion though...
  14. The water pump /alternator solution seems like a good Got me started on thinking about a "homebuilt" solution to save some bucks
  15. Our cars are LHD. I have the rack and pinion steering on my car (from a -83 ZX), so there´s no problem with interferance. Don´t think it would work with the recurculating ball system (if that´s what it´s called). I have done a lot of other mods on my car too, are working on putting some pics and specs together soon.
  16. Here´s some pics of my twinturbo setup (GarrettGT17) with custommade stainless header. Has worked perfect for me. http://speedfreak.nu/modules.php?set_albumName=albuo04&id=aab&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php http://speedfreak.nu/modules.php?set_albumName=albuo04&id=aac&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php http://speedfreak.nu/modules.php?set_albumName=albuo04&id=aad&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php
  17. Would be interesting with a topic conserning how to drop weight on a 240... Me and my friend are building a 240 with an all-alu Volvo B28 engine for drag-racing. Our goal is to get below 900kg, if possible including driver. We´re shaving weight on everything and only leaving barely enough to make it street legal. Hope to get some pictures up soon.
  18. Sounds like a bad mod... but it actually looks good...
  19. Here´s a picture of my I/C: http://speedfreak.nu/albums/albuo82/aae.jpg It´s from a Scania bus... Had to modify it and the rails and the surrindings around the headlight buckets and even the hood to make it fit. I´m using 2 3/8" piping, and with custom header and twin turbo there´s no noticable lag, and the outlet from the I/C is ICE-cold (well, almost). Here´s some more pictures: (not completely done in these pics) http://speedfreak.nu/albums/albuo04/aab.sized.jpg http://speedfreak.nu/albums/albuo82/aaf.jpg
  20. Hope to be able to put up more pics and info in the near future. Just have to translate the info to english, as I take it most of you don´t speak swedish I do have a picture of my custombuilt (by me) stainless header and the twin turbos. http://speedfreak.nu/modules.php?set_albumName=albuo04&id=aab&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php
  21. I was lucky enough to get my hands on one of these IC´s http://speedfreak.nu/modules.php?set_albumName=albuo04&id=aaf&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php It is suposed to sit in a SAAB Scania bus (twice as high original, had to cut it down and modify it sligthly.) I had to modify the frame rails and the underside of the bonnet to make it fit. Under it, between the rails, sits an oilcooler from the same busmodel. Running approx. 11 psi and flooring it doesnt make the outgoing airtemp noticebly higher than ambivalent air. And there is very little turbolag, partly due to twinturbo setup (Garrett GT17´s). Sadly, a broken Haltech made me have to put it back in the garage before I could sort allthing out, but next summer I´m aiming at 15 psi and a shoot of NOS.
  22. I´ve been looking at the vette IRS before, might be the solution for me.
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