logan1
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Posts posted by logan1
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Well I changed mu mid and bough a much more conservative motor today. My guess is that the motor will make between 285 to 300hp at the crank. The specs are as follows:
fresh rebuilt 350 - Its a 4 bolt 010 70's block
Block was decked and smoothin for faster oil flow
Block has been powered hoaned from 030 to 040
Stock 883 heads
New flattop 4rv pistons - 9.5:1 compression
Rods and cranked turned
new comp cam 268H and lifter Kit : http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL12-210-2
edelbrock airgap intake
new cam, rod and main bearing
New feeeze plugs
Motor came with a HEI distributer, water pump, and starter.
PRICE : $700
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Well after i priced out all the stuff to build my SBC i found this one for sale and think it might be a good fit for me. Just want to know if its a good buy? and what kind of power output i can expect out of it? Will it is a good street motor?
Below is all the information the owner has provided me with so far:
355 SBC
TRW .100 dome forged pistons
11.1:1 compression
GM steel crank
5.7" rods with ARP rod bolts,
Crane .630" solid roller cam
Crane Gold rockers
Edelbrock aluminum Victor Jr. heads 2.08/1.60 valves 64cc chambers 215cc runners, ARP head studs
Edelbrock Victor Jr. intake
Holley 750 double pumper
SFI balancer
4 bolt main block bored .030 over. Block was line honed as well.
The owner claim that it will make 485-500hp on 91 oct pump gas.
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ok so i made an excel sheet to see how much it would cost to build a sbc 350 that would give me 300hp and the wheels and i'm shocked at the price. I was heading into this think it was going to be a budget build. This so called budget build is gonna cost me a fortune. I wrote down all the numbers and it looks like its going to be way more expensive than i had expected. The expected cost is price of parts off ebay and other internet sites and the actual cost is what i have bought so far.
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from what i have been reading online over the last few hours; i dont this the dome pistons will work with my vortec heads. I think the best i can hope for is flat tops with 2 VR's.
below is a picture of my current pistons.
Since i pulled my motor from 1994 chevy shortwide i looked up the spec for the 5.7L 350 that came with the 94 truck found that it had a compression 8.75:1 and was rated for 190hp and 300ft.lb of tq.
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A 305 is widely regarded as an excellent boat ancor.
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Currently i have a stock 1994 SBC 350 block and rotating assm. The pistons a Dish pistons with 4 valve relief cut into them. I think that gives me a compression of 8.75:1.
Since my goal is to get 300hp at the wheels would it be a good idea to switch out the pistons with a set of Dome 0.125 pistons which would bring my compression to somewhere between 10.5 to 11:1. The cost of the new pistons is only $170 and seem like they would provide a good jump in HP.
I will be running a set of Vortec heads, and Holly 600cfm carb, and a Comp cam Xtreme Energy 268 cam. (Duration @ 0.050":224° / 230°; Max Lift w/ 1.5RR: .477" / .480")
The pistons i want to buy:
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I sent and email to summit customer service to help me pick a cam and below is the cam they suggested:
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Logan, what type of lifters are you gonna run? If your budget allows, go ahead and get the vortecs set up for screw- in studs and guide plates. That'll make your life easier latter on.
cam: 225-235 @ .050 and you won't need any more than .510-.520 lift at the valve. I'll try to get the spec for the cam that we have in the engine on the dyno this weekend. Go for at least a Performer RPM (air gaps are taller I think). You can get the Professional Products intake, just be prepared to do some clean up porting on it. The Edelbrocks have a MUCH nicer casting.
kool cant wait to see the cam spec for your SBC. I'll look into the screw in studs and guide plates for the Vortec heads. I'm not sure as to what intake to use right now as i would like to be able to close the hood without crushing the airfilter.
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Ok guys here is the play so far:
The motor will have a stock bottom end with all new bearings and flat top pistons. I will be using a set of vortec 350 heads. I would like a cam recommendation that will allow me to make between 300 and 325hp.
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My car currently has upgraded brakes, coilover suspension, thicker front and rear sway bars, strut bars front and rear, 275/4017 tires on the rear and 255/45/17 on the front.
Are there any shop drawings with measurements/instructions for all the stuff John C mentioned?
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thanx for the answers...looks like my 300hp sbc should be fine with the stock datsun monocoque for now.
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Since i'm planning to do a SBC swap into my 240z; thought i would ask the question before i twisted my car into a pretzel.
How much power can the stock 240z frame/monocogue take without addition reinforcement?
I'm currently planning a SBC 350 putting bout somewhere between 300 to 350 hp at the wheels. I have yet to buy the cam and heads; but i have the block and the rotating assm. complete.
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Where di dyou get your LEDs in the front from?
I bought those off Ebay. I think they are a 12 led cluster.
What kind of gauges? Looks awesome.
Those are stock gauges with speedhut gauge faces.
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Hello!! I am saving this post as inspiration for what I would like my car to look like when it is finished. Good taste!
thanx bro
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quote name='Litman' timestamp='1322525050' post='968633']
Wicked nasty stance. Love it!!! Nice job doing all of the work yourself. Gotta respect that.
Since you don't have a build thread I'm going to let the questions fly:
- Front and rear rim size and offset?
- Front and rear tire size?
The rims are Rota RB's; 17x9 (-13 offset) front with 255/45/17 and 17x9.5 (-19 offset) rear with 275/40/17 tires.
- What, if any, cutting/rolling did you do under the rear flares?
I had to do the standard cutting required to have functional ZG flares. I think there is a thread in the "body work" section with a step by step guide showing how to do the cutting.
- How much clearance do you have in the rear at the pictured ride height?
I had 3/4" clearenc at the rear. I have since raised the rear up 1.5" I post some pictures of the car with its current stance soon.
Thanks in advance for your response.
- Front and rear rim size and offset?
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off topic but your z looks nice... are those bamf flares or just regular flares? and what spoiler is that?
The flares are regular ZG's and te spoiler is a sparrow tail.
Some of the budget 3.75" cranks end up NOT being a deal. They can take heavy metal to balance. That will blow your budget. Also, they are not always the roundest, straightest cranks. Buyer be aware!
I like your cheap idea. Check with your local machine shops for deals. We always have blocks, intakes, heads, etc.. My 327 steel crank was free and so was the 350 steel crank and 4 bolt block.
Watch out for the pro-comp parts in the heads. They can be not so good. We've even had seats from them that needed replacing.
What parts do you have already?
I have decided to just to a 350 build. I will not be doing the 383 after all. Also after reading a bunch of reviews on line i have decided to not use pro comp heads as then seem to be cheap for a reason.
210 cc heads are too big for a hyd cam motor and your target hp. It will be down on torque and you won't be able to turn it high enough to use the heads with 350 cid. Some bowl ported cleaned up stock heads will meet your goal and save money. I recently helped a fellow freshen a motor with procomps and the core shift was so bad the intake barely sealed. Save up for some better heads or use some stockers.
jt
Do you think a set of vortec heads would get the job done? Also how much TQ would i lose by using 210cc heads; I ask because they are a set of brodix heads for sale locally with 210cc intake port, 67cc chamber volume, and the valve size intake is 2.080 and exhaust valves are 1.600. Professionally ported have a 1206 intake gasket on them and there ported more than the intake chambers on the gasket.
As i stated above i will not be using pro comp heads as they seem to be very low quality heads.
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Logan1:
If the target is 300/350tq, for a little more cost those number will be more easily achieved by stroking it to a 383 cu in engine. For $200.00 a cast stroker crank can be had. Either way you will likely have to buy new Pistons anyway. The machining and cylinder heads will make the real difference in how the engine will perform.
yes but to do a stroker i'll have to get the block machined to a .030 over bore which will probably cost between $500 to $800 in addition to the cost of the crank.
Unless i can do a 383 by simply clearancing the engine for 3.75 stroke using a carbide bit and a die grinder.
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I'm going to do a V8 swap into my 240Z. As with just about everyone’s build the idea is to keep the cost down and get the best performance/dollar possible. The tranny is going to be a T5 from a V8 camaro going to a 4.11 R200 open diff. My Target power is approx 300hp/350tq at the wheels.
(1) Junkyard 350 short block with stock oil pan. I’ll be taking everything apart and reinstalling it after a good cleaning with new bearing. I would like to not get the block machined due to cost.
(2) Pro comp Aluminum Heads (210cc Intake Port, 64cc Chamber, 2.02/1.6 Stainless Valves, .550 Lift Springs, Straight Plug)
(3) COMP XTREME ENERGY CAM XR282HR
(4) Comp Cams High Energy Hydraulic Lifter
(5) 7.4-inch pushrods
(6) 1.6+ rocker rollers
Let me know what you think of the parts list and if I can do better for the money. I especially would like to try and save a lil money by getting a cheaper cam.
My car already has upgraded brakes, coilover suspension, thicker front and rear sway bars, strut bars, 275/4017 tires on the rear and 255/45/17 on the front.
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got what i need
thanx Guys
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At this point I'm on a shoe string budget and cant really afford to do a RB or JZ swap.
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I need a electric fuel pump and regulator for my 240Z L24 with twin SU's. Let me know if you have one for sale.
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The car is looks good but needs a lil more power under the hood. I am strongly considering building a 350 SBC and swapping it in place of the current L24. The goal would be to have 300hp/300tq at the wheels.
The only thing holding me back is the fact that i love the sound of my current straight 6 and am not sure I’d like the sound of the SBC as much.
I'm currently debating between the high compression L28 motor or a 350 SBC.
The HC L28 would only give me around 170hp at the wheels but would sound awesome; the 350SBC would give me 300hp but would sound like a truck motor.
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Just finished color sanding and buffing the car. Thought i'd share a few more picture.
After
And a few pictures of the interior:
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how did you paint the car? using the high density foam roller method, real paint sprayer, rattle can (sure doesn't look like it... but thought i'd ask
) I ask because I plan on painting my car, probably with the roller method, but I wanted to know what you did? I may be PMing you for some more details on it... and what coilovers are you running?This car looks freaking clean. I really like what you did with it. I usually don't get excited by a lot of the parts you used... but wow they all go together great on your build. awesome job! have you driven it yet? I'm aching to drive my Z... but I've still probably got 4 or 5 months left.
I was luck enough to be able to borrow a Devil Bliss GTI gun from a friends bother to paint my car. You are more than welcome to PM me with questions; i'll do my best to answer them.
) I ask because I plan on painting my car, probably with the roller method, but I wanted to know what you did? I may be PMing you for some more details on it... and what coilovers are you running?
Vortec 383 horsepower guesses?
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted · Edited by logan1
the Vortec heads come from the factory with a 5 angle valve job; just leave them alone and you'll be better off. Instead of spending the money on a 3 angle valve job get the heads ported.